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Popolou

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About Popolou

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 12/09/1980

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    London, UK
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  • Present cars
    1972 Triumph Stag V8
    MY06 987 Boxster S
  1. If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop
  2. Must admit that i really would have thought something official would have come out about now. Back when this was an incredibly annoying problem i had the chance to show a tech how i went about curing the problem. It was a simple matter of putting the soft top in the service position which would drop the tension on the (tension) cables allowing you to pull back the canvass. You will then see a triangular fabric by the corners (as per my previous post) that looks rather worn and battered. Simply put either a wide piece of tape or smooth adhesive cloth/felt pad on the plastic bracket that it rubs on and the clicking sounds disappear for good. :thumbup: If someone comes across info on the official fix, do post up as i'd be interrested to see how they solved it. Regards pop
  3. No regrets - actually, i consider it some of the best of my hard earned i've spent on the car. The film doesn't end up embedding any of the road debris or the like and instead does a good job or repelling all but the largest of objects. If the installation is a good one, the film should last for quite a while yet; i'm currently running on almost 2.5 years now and its held up to most that's been thrown its way. Maintenance of the film is not a big deal tbh, it just requires a wash and wax like the rest of the car. Some films come with a clear coat and others come without so you will need to do a little homework beforehand (mind you, IIRC they may all come with a layer of clear). Being plastic it has memory so any small grazes will pop out with a little warm water say and manipulation. Whereas in the past you will also have a partial bonnet covering, the manufacturers now produce a larger film for greater coverage so you won't get any borders. Removal is simple. You can either wait for a warm day and have the film bathes in the direct light, or use something like a hair drier to heat up the area and remove the film bit by bit. It will come off without any hassle but on the odd occasion you may need to use a little cleaner to remove any residue. The peace of mind it offers knowing its there is very appealing. Before it was on i could hear and gringe each and every knock i end up collecting. Regards Pop
  4. I've heard of talk that this is easy too, but suspected it to be more relevant to the 986. Still, would be interested to know how winding back the clock is possible. Nonetheless, yes you can check using the PIWIS the operating hours (or something to that effect) that is clear evidence on the use of the car. There are several posts on this issue and there is an accepted ratio that converts the number of hours into meaningful mileage to help correlate with the mileage on the clock. I think there was talk of approx 30 miles for each hour. Pop
  5. It's a front bumper removal job unfortunately. Pop
  6. Not to worry as i am sure it was like this when it arrived. The update being restricted to the PCM and navigation, it wouldn't affect the components on the MOST bus and so wouldn't be responsible for the little glitch. As long as the car is under factory warranty, you should have no problem in showing them the exclamation marks. Just probably best not to go about explaining the update you carried out. ;) BTW, ask them to carry out severel recalls to the PCM that may not have been done yet. They may say that unless you identify a specific problem, they won't perform these "campaign" items. If they do seem unreasonable, this site lists all the bulletins the OPC's themselves get sent which include faults with the PCM which were subsequently rectified. You'll need to be a contributing member however. Pop
  7. Off the peg, i'd say no it's not compatible, unless you also have the PCM update CD that is required to bring the revision level of the unit to one that accepts the Map DVD. The PCM units have three Model Levels currently (well 4 if you count the "+" level too) and they range from the earliest at pre May 2005 cars to those afterwards. The May '05 cut off date relates to a hardware change, but if you do a search you should find some more info on the boards. Don't confuse the previous PCM v2 units with those in the 9x7 cars which come with the PCM v2.1. If you hit the MAIN and TRIP buttons together and go into the PCM menu, look for the entry TARGET and ACTUAL. These tell you the actual software level for the PCM deice itself and one relates to what is installed, and the other relates to what the MOST bus is expecting to see installed. If you have exclamation marks on the entries, it means that you will need to get the car down to the OPC to do a module discovery with their PIWIS machine they have available in-house. There is a mismatch with what devices are installed on the MOST bus and that detected by the PCM. It shouldn't cause any loss of functions however, but is a nuisance nonetheless. Pop
  8. White, you don't work in the Bat Cave by any chance? :D Pop
  9. Informative post Loren. Does this scale ring true for the other 9x7 cars? Cheers Pop
  10. Well strictly speaking it was part of the 9x7 range from new. But i'd suggest you pay a visit to a local breakers yard because i suspect that'd be the easiest way to get you hands on one. Pop
  11. I suspect the reason is because the alarm control unit needs to be resync'd with the key fob once again. I do not have the information to hand, but it has been covered here in the past. IIRC, it involved inserting the key into the ignition, turning one position and holding down the remote button on the fob for a few seconds. Pop Ps: Just to add that the fact the alarm triggers means that the CU is working fine.
  12. There has been a report on here where an OPC had overtightened the hardtop when fitting once the car had completed the PDI on customer collection. On first removal, the rubber membrane that runs the perimeter of the hard top that touches the clamshell had work into the clear coat leaving a quite apparent mark. The OPC repaired it FoC and acknowledged the mistake. The indentations, are they three equal sized circles around halfway on the soft top? If so, these circles that you see are for the bump stops on the underside of the clamshell. There is nothing that can be done about them unfortunately, and they seem to get worse if you'd lower the top when its slightly damp. Others have tried inserting a small material to protect the lining, but this will not allow the clamshell to settle flush when parked and may cause undue stress on the linkages. The hardtop itself does not touch the soft top when installed. Pop
  13. I did have the tool, unfortunately, I had no info on use. To my earlier question, if all works, is all OK? Don If the gear shift pops out of gear or you feel there is not enough movement to engaging a gear, then you'd need to realign the cables using the tool. This may not happen immediately, but you may be in the clear. Be aware however, that because the short shift reduces travel, it increases the forces on the joints/linkages. If the cables are not correctly aligned and you start having the above problems, you run the risk of doing damage. Pop
  14. To echo RFM's post, you need the green alignment tool to ensure the new SS is in the absolute neutral position before you connect the cables to the linkages. You say you purchased the OPE units - did the tool not come packaged together with the frame? As long as you made sure that before you removed the linkages from the original item, the cables were both in the neutral position, you can set the shifter shaft by eye (if you didn't have the tool) and without moving the cables, connect them as close as possible to a neutrall positioned SS. In other words, its perfectly possible to set the OEM SS without the green alignment tool, but it'd take a little more preperation and checking, whereas the tool would allow a bolt on, clip on and refit in half the time. Pop
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