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Cassiebox

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Everything posted by Cassiebox

  1. Thanks! It was actually a very easy mod to do once I knew the box would fit in the batwing. OEM like integration and simplicity add to the appeal IMNSHO. Probably should have removed it before I sold the car as I could have sold it many times over - LOL. :)
  2. just make sure you get everything for the vents as the vanes are different between the set ups IIRC. :)
  3. careful!!! If it's the OEM cloisonné crest from the factory I think they are attached w/ rivets from the back side... :)
  4. Did it blow the fuse again when you replaced it or only when you plugged in your cell charger? Between the 'hot' you mention, it sounds like you have an issue w/ the charger. So, try another accessory or your cell charger in another vehicle to see what happens. Over the years I've had numerous cell chargers go bad so this certainly shouldn't be overlooked. Also, ensure there isn't anything stuck in the outlet like a coin or gum-wrapper etc. Finally, check the 4 pronged cable behind the center console (for aux phone hook up). IIRC it's on the same fuse and oddly sometimes will make contact w/ a metal bolt or plate down there causing a short. Good luck :)
  5. there are number of settings you can fiddle with to try and make the BOSE system sound better but after all, it's a BOSE system... great marketers w/ OK sound. One trick to try and tame down how muddy the bass is is to fill the BOSE sub-woofer box w/ fiberfill (basic pillow stuffing from a craft store like Michaels/Joann's). This helped dramatically with my cab's BOSE system. Good luck :)
  6. You don't happen to have an aftermarket HID/Xenon light kit in there do you? Warning lights are common w/ some of the cheaper made kits. Otherwise, could be issue w/ light switch (common failure), ignition switch (common failure) or alternator (at 10+ yrs old w/ ?? miles, not uncommon). As for MAF, are you getting any check engine light or error codes? Usually people have erratic idle when AC is ON... so I guess you have a good problem w/ steady idle. Might try cleaning the throttle body too. Also, was AOS (Air Oil Separator) ever replaced? :)
  7. yes, DIY. $10 part if ordered online from autohausaz.com otherwise $35-50 from local Audi dealer. Very common issue... electrical portion craps out. Search on ignition switch and you'll find lots of threads and DIY (maybe in sticky too). Good luck :)
  8. Not knowing which of their SSK kits was installed (as I see they have a number) will limit our suggestions to remedy as only guesses . . . Aside from either: obviously it wasn't installed correctly and/or it is the wrong one for your C4S . . let's assume it's a compatible one. So, based on your comment re: trouble shifting to 1, 3 , 5 (I presume R too), and now 1 not staying... the issue is likely b/c they didn't align shift cables properly during install or didn't mark the existing location accurately when taking out old or didn't adjust for addition of FVD (depending on which SSK installed). On the OEM shifter and short shift kits, there is an alignment tool to aid in making sure both shift cable are aligned correctly. Let us know which particular FVD SSK you installed and we can help more from there. :) PS - w/ most SSK, you need to remove the 'appendix' (a green plate) on the bottom of the shifter housing in order to make it function correctly - at least was the case in the Boxsters. Just another thought...
  9. That may work on an '03-04 MY 986 as they changed the rear spoiler and bumper design from the early 986s but even then it may not. As for working on a pre '03 Boxster such as yours, I'd say chances are even slimmer. Sorry. However, I do recall at some point someone made a similar looking aftermkt spoiler for the early Boxsters. Unfortunately, I remembered reading about a number of them cracking... Agree, it is a nice looking swap though. :)
  10. maybe... some ignition switches are bad out of the box. or could be the clutch interlock switch or a key issue. Need more details about what happened when you tried to start it? Did it turn over or nothing, etc.? Any pending codes (autozone or th elike will read for free) Tell us more :)
  11. Shift boot and knob are one assembly. The boot is affixed to the center console w/ a number of clips around the edge. You can gently pull up on the edges w/ your hand to unsnap the clips where the leather meets the plastic or use some plastic trim removal tools. Once the boot is free, pull it up over the knob. On a '98 w/ the stock black shifter knob, it is just held on by some adhesive and compression to the shifter. That being said, on some later MY or optional equipment knobs, there is a retention bolt on the side facing the dashboard. So check there first. If no bolt, pull the boot back but don't re-clip it. Then just open your convertible top, twist the shift knob back and forth a few times (to try and release the adhesive). Firmly plant yourself in the passenger seat, use the floorboards to push off of and pull upward on the shift knob HARD until it releases. NOTE: Do NOT have your head in the direct upward path of the knob or you'll likely smack yourself in the face - LOL I've seen it happen. Reassemble new knob in reverse. Good Luck :)
  12. Jeremy, Send me your address. I'm one state over and can mail mine to borrow. Should be there in a day and will only cost you $0.44 (return postage) rental fee ;)
  13. Piece #18 is just held in by compression w/ 4 small tabs on part itself: 2 on the long side of triangle, one on each shorter side. Use some plastic trim removal tools or a butter knife covered w/ electrical tape (to not mar the dash) and gently pry it up using the corner nearest A pillar (part is about 3/4" deep FWIW). Then, pick up some very thin self adhesive felt (from Lowe's / HD or a craft store like JoAnns/Michaels) to line it with and put it back in place. Good luck :)
  14. I wouldn't . . . Price might be compelling in it's own right but who cares if there are 'other' interested parties (often used as a sales pressure technique). It's not worth the gamble not knowing what could be a car that's been beaten in a major way potentially causing warranty enforcement problems down the road . . . It's tough when searching b/c you just want to find the one and end up second guessing yourself. However, there truly is no shortage of used P-cars out there, let alone great ones. Be patient and ALWAYS do your homework when buying used. Good luck :)
  15. Relax, the install is very easy. I don't have specific radio pictures but there are some around here or in the Boxster 986 subforum. My descriptions below should be sufficient though. First things first... Do you have the 4 digit security code for your radio? If yes, keep it handy while installing. If no, then either call your dealer w/ your vin# & radio serial # to obtain (most here in the lower 48 provide gratis w/ proof of ownership) or submit this info in the lost radio code request thread in the 986 sub-forum here. Loren will post your info. Side note: once you have the code, write it on the option sticker in the front trunk and/or on the label on the top of the head unit once removed for future use as most people lose the radio card that came w/ the car. With the keys - do NOT insert them into the radio until you are ready to pull out b/c you must have the radio out of the in dash chassis in order to remove the keys once they click & lock into the head unit. The keys are identical but one side is marked L, the other R. This is their face up side of the radio orientation for inserting. The keys are a thin metal and therefore could hurt or even cut your hand during removal if not careful. To prevent from happening and assist in radio removal, place a screwdriver into the hole of each key. Then, pull on the screwdrivers using them as T handles. Depending on if your radio has ever been pulled before or how often, it may take considerable effort to get it to release so know you'll end up pulling on it harder than you think you should... Do your wiring as needed and fish the cable out the back side of the chassis in dash. You can pull the carpeted trim piece on the side of the lower console to grab it from below. (pull out about 2 inches where ready arrow is and then slide deeper into footwell to get it to release from tabs on rear) Just a reminder for your wiring, do not disconnect any of the other plugs in the back UNLESS you have your radio code. Once the radio is out, you'll see a long blue spring clip near the front lower portion of each side. These are what the radio keys locked into. You need to release the keys before reinserting the radio into the dash and do so by pushing in on the clip and pulling the key out simultaneously. They can be very tight so use a screwdriver to push them in if needed. As with removal, sliding the radio back into the chassis can take some effort. It will glide fairly easily until the last 2 inches. If it's hard to push before the last 2 inches then you don't have it lined up correctly and need to raise or lower front to get it into the right channel. For the last inch or so you again will need to use more force than you think is necessary. Good luck and enjoy being able to use your ipod in your Porsche. :) PS - there is also a lost radio sticky thread in the main 996 discussion forum.
  16. you need radio code b/c battery went dead or was disconnected. Post in the radio sticky thread to get code. As for the others (and maybe why your battery went dead) look into your ignition switch. Common weak point and simple DIY R&R for $10 (if part order online) or $35-50 if picking up part from local dealer. Instructions on how to replace ignition switch here from Pedrosgarage.com Good luck :)
  17. radio code has not been needed since Porsche switched over to the MOST fiber optic system w/ '03 model year. :)
  18. do yourself a favor too... for the male torx set, just go ahead and get the Safety Torx version (female hole in the center). Undoubtedly you will come across a safety torx screw somewhere and no sense carrying around two sets of identical sizes Actually, for convenience purposes, once you have a set of safety Torx bits, you'll end up leaving your std torx set on the bench or in the drawer permanently... :)
  19. Amp certainly could be issue as they are weak and '03 was first go around for MOST system. You wouldn't be first w/ problems... With the amp suddenly having different load after 7years, it could have fried the rear two channels. If you tested the continuity of the wiring from from the amp to the speakers and it is ok, and if the speakers are ok, then amp is issue. Pick up a used one on ebay or replace your head unit and amp w/ aftermkt. Just in case though, regarding the wiring, did you check the other 2 in-line plugs: - brown one above the gas pedal (or where ever you may have put it) where you make the connection between the lead from the amp to the speaker lead? You can check for amp output there - if none on the front side then amp most likely problem or wires somehow got cut. - white (unless Harvey changed plug colors) plug under the clamshell where the rear enclosure connects w/ the lead on the passenger side? Good luck :)
  20. yes covered - there is a TSB for it which you can download as a contributing member of Renntech. :)
  21. Might need a firmware update as I recall there being some fixes for charging issues w/ newer i-equipment. To check, when you plug the iphone in it should give you the firmware version on the iphone/pod screen in a format like G5MB_xxx - "xxx" is the firmware version installed. An alternative is to plug a usb drive w/ some music on it into the USB slot for a few minutes. Then remove and plug USB drive into a PC. It'll have a file written on it in the same format w/ either an EES or BIN extension showing the f/w version. The latest f/w is 2.22 (Click on the Dension Firmware link here on bumperplugs.com) which was released back in June of TY. A summary of updates and install instructions are listed in the text files in the zip. You can also email or call Eric at Bumperplugs.com. He's a very helpful person and doubly so when you explain you bought the car used and this was already installed - he is the US distributor for the Dension GW500 products. Good luck :)
  22. On new cars, dealers usually install the Nav DVD disc(s) upon delivery of vehicle to customer. On used vehicles, they typically remove NAV DVD disc(s) when the vehicles are on the lot and then reinstall when new owner takes delivery. Why? Updated DVDs fetch big $$$$ and therefore are prime theft targets... Call the dealer and insist they give you the most updated DVD compatible w/ your hardware version. Make them install it too (at no charge) just in case the PCM needs re-flashed. :)
  23. OUCH! Sorry to hear of your misfortune but very glad to hear your wife and you are ok. FWIW, based on the impact location and amount of damage shown, make sure you both or at least she gets a thorough medical exam ASAP. You need to identify any down the road potential medical issues ASAP... Based on just the amount of surface damage I can see there plus airbag detonation, and knowing the wholesale and retail values of older Boxsters, I think you can count on it being totaled. Sorry :( . Allstate, as I've read/heard, has a very poor reputation when it comes to auto policies (not sure about anything else they may offer...). So, aside from you and your wife getting physically checked out ASAP, I'd recommend getting your insurance company involved ASAP too! I'm sure there will be many fights down the road about valuation of vehicle, etc. You appear to not be at fault but even if you have no-fault ins in your state, get this put on their lap ASAP. They'll have much more experience in dealing w/ Allstate (as they most likely do on a daily basis) and will be fighting for their best interest in the property. This benefits you as opposed to A/S who just want to settle it for the least amount possible ASAP. Good luck :)
  24. first things first, make sure the probe hasn't been dislocated from it's retaining clip in the grille in front of the radiator. If looking at the front of the vehicle, it'll be on the left side... :)
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