Cassiebox

Yikes! For future reference, you might want to price things out w/ Sunset Imports. Back in July, I bought the newest version AOS (p/n 996-107-023-04 which includes bellows) for $76.50 from them. Shipping was just $7.50 to PA....

correct Stefan - per what I was told by sunset - revision .04 comes w/ the bellows

Bruce- Good job. Agree, it certainly isn't as easy as changing the cabin filter ;) Not sure when you cleaned the TB last but if your AOS was really bad and you had a fair amount of oil in the j-tube, you'll probably benefit from cleaning it again.... JM2C Good tips - thanks for sharing.

strata22- It certainly can change the notion of replacing the 5.25" door speakers w/ a larger size but you'll most likely end up still needing to do some mods (explanation below). Regardless if you change the amp or not, you definitely want to change the speakers. Doubly so w/ a new amp. Again, clarity is a big issue and the paper cone stuff PAG uses just does not get the job done - period. If you want to stick w/ 5.25", you certainly can. Remember though, you want new door speakers to get below at least 50Hz (and ideally at/below 40Hz to get any kind of low end). 5.25" speakers, naturally due to size, have an extremely hard time getting below 55Hz (w/ out needing lots of power). So.... w/ larger power requirements comes a larger/deeper speaker w/ a bigger magnet and deeper cone. Deeper speakers most likely will get you into trouble w/ clearance issues in the stock tuned port necessitating either modifications to it - or eliminating it completely and making a custom mount (IIRC the stock tuned port only has a clearance depth of 2-3/8" deep - or so). Don't forget, on speakers needing larger power requirements, you'll also need a larger/more powerful amp. Larger, more powerful amps will too require a custom mount on the firewall or floor in your front trunk. And it all comes full circle...... So you really want to have a good idea of what you want to accomplish completely with the system before you dig in (including budget-wise). Otherwise it's a slippery slope and you'll upgrade one portion and be disappointed. Then another and still be disappointed. And so on.... A well matched/balanced system is the key - enough power for the $ to make you happy and keep all the components in line and balanced - anything more is overkill. In the end..... yes you can stick w/ the 5.25" size. If you do, in all likelyhood, you'll end up with more power than you really need for other components (amp, dash speakers, or rears) and spend more $ than needed just to maintain one aspect.... the 5.25" doors. For amps, stick w/ good quality brands and go from there. I won't bash or recommend any brands but will say..... if you think you can get what you want/need at any "Mart" or Pep Boys, save yourself the time and frustration.... keep what you have stock. Instead, figure out a total budget. Then search through the archives here for quality brand names to find what other's have used and said about them etc. PS- One side note before you dig in...... What MY do you have? Anything '03 or newer is fiber optic between the head unit and amp. As such, a new amp will most likely require also replacing the h/u too :(

might just switch to a pair of wrap around style sunglasses like Maui Jim, etc. My old Ray Ban's used to let a ton of light it and it bothered me completely. I've since switched to Maui Jim's and they do a great job of shielding my eyes all the way around.

Sorry to hear, and unfortunately I'm in a similar boat right now too. It's a tank venting issue. Hopefully your car is a MY'00 or newer and it might just be a simple fuse. Mine unfortunately is a '99 so it's not applicable. From the research I've done thus far, it could be a couple of issues. If '00 or later, in a quiet garage, take off gas cap and insert finger in to hole pushing filler flap aside. You should hear a click when the flap is 90 deg turned. If not, check fuse E6 (IIRC on 986 - but check fuse guide) to see if it's blown and replace as needed to solve. Blown fuse won't allow the ORVR (vapor recovery system used on '00 and later) to turn on - might also tape up the cell phone connector behind center console as it's the same circuit - could be grounding out causing it to blow. If fuse is good, it could be the solenoid, wiring or a problem w/ the charcoal canister. For '99 and prior, could be dropped line in the tank from sending unit, blocked vent or another issue that I haven't found or solved yet. I understand it's best to get car looked at by tech w/ less than a 1/4 tank of gas in it in case they need to work in or drop the tank to remedy. This apparently is a known problem and I think there might be more than one TSB on it... Mine at this point is full and almost in winter storage so I will have to wait until spring to examine/diagnose further. Please keep me posted w/ what you learn. Thanks and good luck!

x2 on the direct ring connect to the battery. My car is in storage under cover for 4 months. The leads on my C-Tek charger are long enough to close the hood all the way and run out from top by the cowel and down gap between fender and door. Control box then sits outside my car cover. This way I can easily take a look at it occasionally to make sure everything is fine w/out having to uncover the car. Plus, although unlikely, suppose the cig lighter fuse blows week 1 of storage? In which case, you may not find out about it until months later. Then not only will you have to replace the fuse (no big deal), but will also have a completely discharged battery (probably won't be recoverable either). Thus defeating the whole reason/purpose you got a maintainer to begin with..... and delaying your inagural drive. Hooking up the maintainer directly to the battery forces me to be patient and thorough when de-winterizing my car. If it were just plugged in the lighter, once the weather broke, I'd be tempted to quickly rip it out and fire up the car. Thinking.... if it starts I'm good to go. Then after a few miles I'd notice it riding exceptionally harsh and think - "oh sh!t, I forgot to reduce the tire pressure from 50#!!!" While reducing tire pressure, I suppose I'd remember about the SOS pads I stuffed in the exhaust pipe and end up burning my hands trying to retrieve. So to me, it's functional and 'ritualistic'. YMMV, but I'd rather know my battery is still being maintained even if something else stops working in the interim. :)

juniinc- You certainly seem to be more well versed in this arena than I so your input is great. But please don't misinterpreted my post. I wasn't trying to plug any vendor or counter your previous post, etc. In fact while I was typing/putting my post together, you must have responded b/c it wasn't there when I started. D@mn work always gets in the way :D Anyhow, I was just trying to give a generalized overview of why the current system is so bad and how to make modest improvements to it without dropping tons of $ or having to gut out the system completely and start over. Regardless, I'm with ya... I doubt any audiophiles use the sony exploder series to power their systems ;)

Matt- A crossover, in laymans term, is a filter. It removes all but the low end frequency/signals for the door speakers. On our Boxsters, it's built into the circuitry of the amp. I don't know what the exact cut-off freq is.... but suffice to say no mid or high freq get to the door speakers (and likewise no low end freq gets to the dash only mid and highs). Only way to accomplish full spectrum going to doors would be to replace amp. Stock door speakers are only 5 1/4" which is difficult to get low end from w/ only 40W power due to size. Thus why they are enclosed in a "tuned port". This, in essence, attempts to make them function like a much larger cone in a larger enclosure (think along the lines of the bose wave radio 'marketing'). For what they are (5 1/4" paper cone woofers) they currently do the best job they can. In order to get good sound from the doors, you don't need to put subwoofers in there (you can if you want but probably overkill). Instead, I suggest a good set of 6 1/2", 6 3/4" or even 6x9" 2-ways that maximize what you have. You'll only be using the woofer part of the speaker still unless you also replace the amp. Regardless, choose speakers w/ at least: decent low end freq range - below 50Hz (the closer to 20Hz the better but 40-45 s/b adaquate) sensitivity rating of at least 92 dB (a measure of how efficiently speaker converts power into sound - the higher the better) a low RMS starting range (ideally 2W to something > 40W). This is how much power the speakers can handle continuously - the low # is basically the minimum amount of energy needed from the amp to power the speakers. We know the amp is 40W max so anything greater than 40W at the top of RMS is fine. Peak Power watts > 40W (again since we know stock amp is 40W) resistance - 2 or 4Ohm (my '99 had 2ohm OEM eventhough dash were 4Ohm but I've heard later MY have 4Ohm) This is the 'load' placed on the amp when speakers are powered. The Boxster sound system (stock) is anemic. Yes it could use some more power, but really it has to do w/ clarity and efficiency. Some people run out and replace the amp w/ a 200W amp. You can do that, but all you'll end up getting is loud bad sounding tunes. IMHO, 40W per channel is sufficient (unless you're a major audiophile) it's just the crappy paper cone speakers PAG uses are a joke. You can spend thousands $$ upgrading the Boxster's system, but you seriously can get dramatic improvements for < $500. It all depends on the components, how efficiently they utilize power, and the soundstage you create. A basic home theatre system has at least 3 main components which create a good sound stage: front speakers, rear speakers and a sub Of course, you can go crazy and add more 'sources' of sound like front center, rear center, and side speakers, etc. but you need these 3 basic elements to start. The Boxster in turn, to be a good sound stage, needs these components too to make a balanced system. Consider your door speakers to be the low (and sub). Now you need fronts and rears to match. Since you already upgraded the dash speakers (good choice BTW) they are out of balance w/ the doors based on sensitivity, resistance and freq. For every +1 increase in volume, your dashes are more efficient at converting that energy to sound and further exacerbating the weakness of the doors (which as you sited seems non-existent). Even w/ a stock system they are hard to hear/feel - but even more so now since you have decent dash speakers which over power them. I bet your system currently sounds exceptional bright and 'brass-y'? Do you find yourself leaning forward to hear music when driving? This is b/c the system is not balanced/focused where your ears are (but rather it's focal point is at the steering wheel since the dash speakers are so efficient) and bright b/c the dash (mids and highs) dramatically over power the doors. I upgraded my '99s system w/ the following: added rear speakers (which you should too but will require some sort of custom enclosure since the '97 only has the vinyl bag instead of the carpeted pizza box) changed out dash speakers to infinity refrence 2 way (if I were to do it again I'd use the kappa series) changed out door to infinity kappa 6 3/4" and mounted on wooden baffle swapped out 4x40W amp w/ a 6x40W amp from a 996 (extra 2 channels to power the rear speakers - which can also be done by the head unit but at only 18W peak) Each step above took under 3 hours to accomplish (4 evenings of work) and was done for a total < $450. I'm very pleased w/ the results and have had other Boxster owners inquire how it sounds so good but yet looks stock. Does it rival the ML system in my Lexus... absolutely not and nowhere close. But it is a 1000% improvement over what PAG calls the M490 HiFi Stereo option. Take a look at the link I posted earlier w/ Andy's write up. It's spot on. Changing out the door speakers will be even easier for you w/a '97 as you don't have side airbags to be fearful of. Good luck and ask away w/ any questions. Hope this helps :)

w/ only 40W driving each channel, you'll have a very difficult time finding 5 1/4's that sound better than stock. BTDT w/ three different attempts - 2 were worse, 1 was the same pathetic lack of low end. 40W is not a lot of juice to move a cone in 5 1/4"s to get decent low end. Plus, remember, the doors are only low range so even if you put in 3 or 4 ways, you still only get low end since the crossover is built into the amp. Seriously, if you can use a jigsaw, just get some decent quality 6.5" or 6.75" drivers and make a baffle. Andy M did a great over-all write up about a year or 2 ago in the DIY section called "Modifying the Boxster's sound system w/ out going broke" or something along those lines. Here's a link to the thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9613 I added a template for the baffle towards the end - so it's pretty much plug n play. It's also on the Boxster wiki.

I'd say an '01 at 85K it's definitely cheap insureance to replace. Plus you already mention the tb, intake manifold and j-tube (you called cross-over pipe) are oily. Anything more than a light misting in the j-tube alone should be suspicious. With the motor out dropping in a new one is a piece of cake. Replacing it while on the car isn't that hard, it's just more of a messy job w/ 2 awkward bolts and securing the bellows clamps. Anyhow, take a look at the one you currently have. If it's never been replaced, it's probably a .01 or at most .02 version. Currently they are on .04 ..... which essentially means over the past 10 years of Boxster production, they try and re-design it "right" every 2.5 yrs or so ;) Cheap insurance IMNSHO....

Bingo - AOS failure would cause precisely this. I'd not drive it until you r&r the AOS b/c a bad AOS can cause catastrophic engine failure (hydraloc in the cylinders by sucking in oil which does not compress like gasoline. It will be about $110 to DIY if you buy the parts from Sunset or Suncoast. Not an overly hard job - just kinda messy. Dealer R&R can run $800 so best to DIY. Here are some instructions: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement also, clean out the throttle body when finished.

Replacing the AOS is not a piece of cake but it's not hard either - mostly just messy. As your experiencing, it's a PITA getting the right access. I'm not 100% sure about doing it on a TIP vs manual but I've heard they're not much different and on my '99 5spd it only took about 1.5hrs once I knew exactly what I was looking for. Hardest thing IMHO was turning my arm just right to reach the two 10mm bolts strapping it to the engine. Once those are free, you're in good shape. If you don't have the snap-ring (?) pliers for the bellow clamp, don't worry about buying a $10 tool. I think you're better off just slicing the bellow in the middle and remove it from the top once the old AOS is out. Then reach down in and grab the bottom part of the bellow left on. Again, w/out the snap ring pliers, just use a worm drive clamp on the new one as recommended. It'll only be $1 and is easier to reassemble w/ this anyways as opposed to the snap ring clamp. Here's a good set of instructions (I used them) w/ pictures from Mike Focke's pages.... http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/airoilseparatorreplacement (you might have to refresh a few times to get all the pictures to show) Once you pull the right rear wheel, grab a flashlight and look up in to find the bellows. It's easy to trace (not necessarily see) from there... Good luck!

When locking the car, you should not hear any beep. A beep on lock means one of the check points/contacts is not ready. It could be a couple of things as there are numerous ones for the alarm. For now, let's assume the control unit is fine. So some quick things to look at next time it happens (or now)..... -is there a particular time/way/place that you usually get the beep? top up or down? -radio - do you have an aftermarket h/u? there is a hook up on the chassis -console - center console storage must be closed completely- contact point there -trunks - if one is open would cause a fault -motion sensor could be interupted while arming (i.e dog in car)? If there truly is a fault, I think you can have the system read w/ a code reader to tell you where it might be. Good luck and hope this helps a little.

dl? Anyhow, it's super easy. Just tried it w/ mine. Once you get the headlight out, look at the bar (#10 in diagram you linked). On the front trunk side (inward side), next to the white nylon bushing, there is a split washer in a notch on the bar. Using pliers, pull it off (it keeps the bar from sliding too far inward). Then just slide the bar inward another 1/2 inch or so and lift up on the outward side which is now free from the housing. And just slide the whole thing outward to free the inboard side. Done. Yep, that's me. :) Wanted to change my handle on PPBB over to Boxtaboy too, but figured people would get confused, so I kept it. Thanks for the explanation on the locking bar!! I'll give it a shot once my new ones are delivered. Cheers. Ha ha, I should change mine here to match over there and elsewhere.......

dl? Anyhow, it's super easy. Just tried it w/ mine. Once you get the headlight out, look at the bar (#10 in diagram you linked). On the front trunk side (inward side), next to the white nylon bushing, there is a split washer in a notch on the bar. Using pliers, pull it off (it keeps the bar from sliding too far inward). Then just slide the bar inward another 1/2 inch or so and lift up on the outward side which is now free from the housing. And just slide the whole thing outward to free the inboard side. Done. You can barely see the white nylon bushing in this photo just above the stamped printing in the housing.

Go w/ the silverstars. You can pick them up at pepboys or even dreaded walfart for under $40 in the pair pack (usually $35). PIAA has a "superwhite" which I put in my Lexus' projector lamps (the GX stupidly has H11 size :huh: which sylvania doesn't make in silvestar line). Yes they are as white, but light output is terrible IMNSHO. So much so, I went back to the stock bulbs until I either put in HID upgrades or retrofit the connector.... hmmm). Might also try the new silverstar ultras (probably double the price again though :o )

It's easy to do, you'll just have to twist it a bit while clearing the passenger seat (cover the corner of seat while removing to avoid scraping it w/ the console which has sharp edges). You can either search for short shift install in the archives here and read many posts w/ tips or just follow these instructions from B&M http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/67.pdf Read thru them a couple of times first to make sure you're familiar w/ all the screws holding it in. Once they're all free, it'll come out easily w/ a slight twist to get it to clear the passenger seat. Good luck!

You'll need keys to do it, but they are generic VW/Audi/Porsche radio removal keys and look like this: and go into the slots in the bottom corners of the radio. Once in, insert a screwdriver to pull with. Once out, push the blue tabs on the side to release the keys before re-insterting radio. Most installers have 'em and I'm sure for a few $ they'll let you borrow them for a minute or to just to get the h/u released. If you bought the rear kit from PNP, he usually includes a set of keys at no charge. NOTE - if you have an '03-04 Boxster, you'll be hooking up the speakers to the amp anyways and really don't need to remove the h/u except to gain a little more working room.... thought I'd add that JIC.

glitch- Sorry for your troubles. Easiest solution is to have someone w/ a PST2 or PIWIS tester pull your CDR23 fault codes to determine the problem. Also, have you tried to see if harvey at PNP has any insight. He's a very helpful guy and you can email him: harveypnp at comcast dot net Otherwise, know yours is the most fiber optic system which presents it's own unique set of challenges. In my non-most system (M490 in MY99), the doors (bass frequency only) are driven on thier own channel from the amp by combining the low level signal inputs rec'd by the h/u from both the front and rear channels. Thus when fading to either all front or all rear, it goes away. I presume your system's architecture is much the same. Having said that, might your fiber optic system need reset b/c it may have "unlinked" the amp and h/u when you applied a load (the new rear speakers) to the h/u. I'm not sure but this certainly could be possible especially since the system was unbalanced. If so, you'll again need the PST2 to re-link them recognize each other. Some addl things to consider/try: Did you disconnect the battery again (for at least 1min) to try and let the system reset on it's own? Does the sound volume in your door speakers change w/ any volume adjustment on the h/u? By fading front/rear? Balancing left/right or is it constant? If not, then it's either a linking issue or your amp may be fried (but I doubt). Did you check all the connections on the back of the h/u (by sounds of it yes)? Check all the fuses (my CDR220 radio not only has a fuse lead in the main fuse panel but also one in the back of it? With the car off, when you turn the radio on you should hear an audible 'click' from the amp as it turns on after receiving the relay signal from the head unit. Sorry to not know your exact answers but hopefully this will give you some other things to look at. Good luck!

Easy.... Upgrade to a US spec lighter. Parts are $12.50 + ship from Sunset and takes about 10 minutes to do (including time to retrieve beer when finished ;) ) Here's the info: 996-652-101-10-A05 Socket - $8.05 996-652-102-10 Lighted retaining ring - $4.30 Just pop out the panel, unplug old, push out the old lighter and ring and input new. Done! There are more detailed instructions in the archives here if you search for lighter.

Actually, sounds like the typical bad ignition switch (electrical portion). Easy DIY to replace for about $25 or so in parts. Here's a link to help: (specifically posts #18 and #40) http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493

You are correct, paint code is L84S. The touch up paint I rec'd from paintscratch.com is a perfect match. Enjoy and congrats:

Easy - release the boot from the console by prying up on the rear 'corners' to release the clips and then same on front - will slide out slightly from under batwing. You shouldn't have a set screw (on dash side of the shifter where boot meets knob) but if you do loosen it. Then, put your top down and sit in the passenger seat. Using the floor boards for leverage and with the car in reverse, pull up on the knob. Be careful when it releases to not hit yourself in the noggin as some have reportedly done ;). It's a compression fitting w/ an adhesive on it. Might slightly twist the knob left and right to try and release the glue or leave it parked in the sun to heat up a bit before trying to pulling up. Go to it!

here's a link to them on the Pelican Parts PET catalog - part #10 - you'll need both left and right. http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...7-07-Frame3.htm