Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

wildbilly32

Members
  • Content Count

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wildbilly32

  1. 54k miles. No idea on age clutch but guessing original. Plan is to visually inspect cable securement then concentrate on hydraulics. Change and purge oil first. Then check the various cylinders next, if necessary. Squeak from rear when pushing clutch pedal makes me suspicious.
  2. Still haven't crawled underneath as retirement is just so demanding! However, not believing that the car self corrected went out again today to try. Tried all gear positions with engine off...normal. Started engine and waited for it to drop out of high idle. Tried all gears 1-2-R more difficult than the rest but not impossible. Car is in garage which has a flat floor. The car will sit there all day out of gear, handbrake off and never think about rolling. So I released the handbrake and put in 1st gear left clutch pedal down. Car slooowly moved forward about 1 foot. Shifted to R, left clutch pedal in and car slowly rolled back about 1 foot. Went back to 1st same result forward. No noticeable movement in 2nd. Definitely no movement 3-6. Did not notice any rpm change when placing in either gears that made car roll. This is a "SLOW" roll not like just easing the clutch out to inch forward. Like someone leaned on the car and it moved. Seems like clutch is not fully releasing?? I still plan to check underneath but wondered if anyone had any further comments. Is this "normal"?
  3. creekman: as per original post "3 thru 6 smooth like butter" at time of failure. I will still check the cable ends, anyway and reply back. Thanks.
  4. JFP and creekman: Thanks I will put it in the air and crawl under. Here's something weird: I went out this afternoon to start looking for problems. Started with checking the clutch pedal and cylinder. While pressing the pedal looking for proper function I notice I am not hearing the squeaking noted above! Went on to the frunk removing covers and verifying no leaks and fullness/cleanliness of fluid. No defects noted. Went back to the pedal...no squeaks. Checked shifting engine off...perfect. Started engine...guess what...perfect all gears smooth like butter. Am I nuts?
  5. 2005 996 C4S manual with 54k miles. Yesterday after running errands with no problems I had the following issue while parking in the garage: After waiting in turn lane for traffic for a minute or so in neutral, put in 1st gear(normally), turned into circle into driveway everything normal. To get into garage I have to do a "Y" maneuver which is where problems start. Stop, pull out of 1st gear and try to put into reverse. Operative term..."TRY". It was every difficult. Did the double clutch routine...neutral-clutch out-clutch in-try reverse had to do this a couple of times to get reverse. Backed up and had to do the same thing for 1st gear. Got it in garage. Tried shifting to all positions with engine running 1-2&R very difficult to impossible. No gear grinding but felt like clutch was not fully disengaging. 3 thru 6 smooth as butter. Shut engine off and all gear positions work normally. Did notice a squeaking noise in transmission area when operating clutch pedal, both in and out, that I've never noticed before, however, hard to hear now with engine running so not sure this new. Tried again this morning same deal as above. No liquids on garage floor. Brake/clutch oil reservoir full and clean. First thought was shift cable popped out of holder on trans, but wouldn't it shift hard whether engine running or not? Didn't hit anything nor drop into any giant potholes near end of trip. Have not crawled underneath, yet. Suggestions? Search found nothing specifically of this nature. Thanks in advanceEdit: As far as I know everything is stock and original.
  6. BigMike: Mileage on my car is 53k. Shocks are one of my leading suspects. Thanks for the input
  7. My 4S seems to ride rough on these less than idea midwestern streets. I have owned sports cars most of my life so I realize they usually are somewhat taunt. I believe the suspension to be stock and original. Original 18" Turbo Twists solid spoke wheels with recommended size Bridgestone Potenza SO2-A that have less than 2k miles on them. I backed off the air pressures by 2# front and 4# rear based on comments from this forum. Looking for suggestions for winter-time projects that may address the stiff ride, if not normal. This car does not see a race track nor cones set-up in parking lots. It is just my grocery getter and fair weather cruiser. There are no unusual/noticeable noises other than the occasional thump from the right rear over heavy bumps. I do have a set of OEM engine mounts which I plan to install this winter even though exhaust pipe extensions seem high in body outlets and fairly even. Suggestions appreciated
  8. Jerry: Let us know what you found so we can all learn more.
  9. Year of car? On #2 reverse lights...Do the outside mirrors adjust? If they do depending on year and model fuse should be good as probably on same circuit. As Wyo said there is a reverse relay I believe mounted on the transmission(manual) that feeds the reverse lights. In addition, these cars have a frail socket center contact that tends to break off. Check these when changing/checking the bulbs. Been through all this with my 2005 996 C4S.
  10. Today while troubleshooting a buzzy passenger side tailpipe I noticed the brackets that go from a pipe clamp to the actual tailpipe appear to be broken near the end of the tailpipe Looked in the Bentley book, no help. Took pics attached below. Not good pics as I dropped it off jack stands before I thought about taking pictures. If they need welded can that be done without killing all the electronics? BTW: 2005 996 C4S
  11. 2005 996 C4S. Did 1st DIY oil change including installing L&N spin-on adapter, Mann ML1013 filter and DT40 oil. Owner's manual says 8.7 qts. with filter change. So I filled the filter before installing, added 8 qts while checking dipstick occasionally during filling. After 9 qts. and @8 oz. total it showed at bottom of stick, started, got oil pressure, checked for leaks and shut off. Waited for drain back and checked still at bottom line. BTW last time my Indie did it with stock filter change, he showed 8.80 qt. In addition, maybe just my imagination but seemed like less mechanical engine noise with DT40 compared to M1 0-40! I did make sure all old oil was out by lowering car back to ground following initial draining and got an additional 1/2 qt or so. I will drive tomorrow and do proper check, just wondering if this was weird. I think engine is stock without deep sump and I know I did not run engine up to operating temperature but is this unusual?
  12. Yeah inside rear tire wear is why I put new tires on after I bought it. Previous owner was oblivious to that fact. Just looked at the outer tread while checking air pressure. Should have seen his face when PPI mech. had it on lift and said "come here and take a look at this!" Good negotiating point plus the "it will need an alignment check"(which turned out good).
  13. Ahsai: Thanks. I'll try 34 & 40. Have you noticed any funky tire wear after reducing pressures?
  14. USMC: Did you discover the source of the "trail of liquid"? When mine did that turned out it was the water pump.
  15. 2005 996 C4S 52k miles. Owned for two years. Stock suspension, as far as I know. One year old Bridgestone Potenza S-02A N3 225-40 front, 295-30 rear on stock 18" wheels with approx. 1500 miles since new. While airing up for new season remembered rough ride and that I had reduced pressure a few #'s to soften ride. Is this a bad thing? I drive the car mostly in town like a normal car. While I will occasionally zip from a stop or take a corner or two quicker than wife appreciates! No track, no DE, no pylon racing. Just a grocery getter! Manual calls for 36#'s front and 44#'s rear. I know it has a sport suspension but the ride on less than perfectly maintained Nebraska roads is at the minimum taunt and maximum punishing. Am I just getting old or should I look further into things that control this like suspension bits ?
  16. "NASCAR and M1" simple sponsorship thing. My owners manual is 11 years old as is my car so oils have changed/improved since then. It also recommends three different weights for summer driving. I was looking for educated/experienced opinions which I have received .
  17. While I appreciate everyone's input, I agree with JFP and have already ordered DT40. I only drive the car 1k to 2k during the season so I'll be dumping the DT40 and any contamination from the Mobil 1 soon enough. :thumbup:
  18. Ok...so DT 40 appears to be 5w-40... Thanks JFP, as always!
  19. Will do some reading. Still stick with the 5w-40 even in the Joe Gibbs?
  20. OK...my bad! Did a search after posting this question. Saw a similar post from October 2014. Based on that think I'll go with 5w-40 this year. Any new thoughts would be appreciated.
  21. 2005 996 C4S. Getting ready to do spring oil change. Plan on using Mobil 1. Question is what viscosity should I put in for Nebraska spring, summer and fall. Do not drive in winter so below -13f is not an issue. Owners manual says "above -13f 0w-40, 5w-40, 5w-50". I used 0w-40 last summer and oil pressure was very good. Street driven only by an old guy(me)!
  22. Loren: Thanks. Only thing on the ring is the key and a Porsche FOB!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.