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Showing results for tags 'door lock'.
Found 8 results
I have one key fob that works and one key fob that doesn’t. At least one does. No transmit light on the other with a new battery. Switches feel like they are working. Is there a reset procedure? Neither key will work manually in the drivers door lock. Is the door lock electronic or should I feel a mechanical linkage movement? Nervous with only one key fob that’s the only way to unlock the car.
I recently purchased a 2006 C4S Cabriolet m/t US Model and since my ownership I have been unable to lock the car via the remote and the driver side window does not automatically fully close. I replaced the latch assembly hoping it would knock out one or both problems but nothing has been resolved. Fuses look ok to me. Below is further detail and Durametric codes -- is there anything in there that points to likely culprit(s)? Appreciate your help! Door will not lock with remote (double beep) or with key. I am able to use emergency procedure to lock door (turn key three times) The doors will lock if I hit the locking button inside car. The remote unlocks the car fine. Driver side window drops the 10mm or so when opening door but does not go back up upon closing door. If I am in the car I can manually roll up the last 10mm and it will stay up until I touch the handle again. If the door is open and I roll up all the way it drops the 10mm instantly. Passenger side works as expected. Interior lights stay on. Potentially unrelated issues/info but will mention just in case Convertible top when closing will cycle through latching and never stops, but does latch but I have to let go of button. Rear right window at times does not close on first try Spoiler button does not do anything but spoiler can be activated w/ Durametric AWS module can not be found (I disabled in other modules) Aftermarket radio is installed Codes on durametric Left Door (driver side): 8026: Control unit faulty (does not clear) 8003: Door entry light ( temporarily clears) 8009: Door H. button, inner sh. stroke (temporarily clears) C174: Fault convertible top control unit (comfort) (temporarily clears) Right Door (passenger) 8003 Door entry light ( temporarily clears) C174: Fault convertible top control unit (comfort) (temporarily clears) Alarm 8004: Terminal 50 (Does not clear) 8005: Terminal S (temporarily clears) Front Body Module 8021: Front luggage compartment light (does not clear, currently unplugged) 8042: Front luggage compartment unlocking (occasional) Convertible Top 8041: Right rear window lifter (temporarily clears) Seat Memory C102: Single-wire operation "comfort" (does not clear) Various modules: Airbag, Gateway, Instrument C141: Communication PCM (display)
97 boxster all stock. I used my key to unlock the car and now I got problems.... I am not sure but I think this is the part that needs to be replaced. I am getting two beeps and sometimes one. I fixed the center lock when I fixed the stick shift. I thought maybe the center glove box might be contributing to the problem but it is not. I am not sure if I need this: 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Electrical - Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring - Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring for 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible: Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays or This: 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible - Electrical - Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring - Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM Switches, Motors, Relays, Fuses & Wiring for 1997 Porsche Boxster Base Convertible: Door Switches, HVAC Motors, Relays, and Switches, Starters, Window Motors and Relays
Hi, 1999 Porsche 911 (996) Cab - Automatic Trans., Aftermarket Alpine Radio I'm trying to track down a bad alarm switch (I think). Following are the symptoms: 1. Alarm double beep when activating 2. Door Locks and Windows don't work (15 AMP Fuse C3 blown) 3. Battery is fully Charged 4. I disconnected the ignition switch, reconnected the battery and fuse still blows 5. I disconnected the door lock switch and fuse still blows 6. I disconnected the overhead light array and the fuse still blows 7. Car (basically) does not start (fuel pump works). Car will start intermittently, but maybe 10% of the time trying 8. I replaced the ignition relay (old one was working but showing some resistance on the ohm meter) 9. Problem surfaced when I stopped for gas, filled the tank and the car wouldn't start. I realize there's a lock on the gas cover...have not done troubleshooting on it as I think I have to remove the wheel well to get to it. 10. If I had a wiring diagram, it would make things a whole lot easier!!! 11. I connected a scanner...no faults...I got a green light...however, the scanner does not check the alarm codes Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock. So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening, the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement in the door latch. And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll have to take the door apart to find out, I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it. Thanks1
I'm having electrical issues with my 2000 Boxster S. My windows drop when the doors are opened, but they do not respond to the window controls. They do not come down when the Convertible top handle is pulled. The doors do not lock or unlock with the console button or the remote. I can only lock the driver door. The defrost button does not respond. I replaced the C3 and D1 fuses even though they looked and tested good. I'm getting 13 volts (when the car is on) at the C3 and D1 positions. I pulled the console and tested voltage to the switches and couldn't find any voltage between any two of the many wires going to each switch. I replaced the module under the driver seat with a new one from Suncoast Porsche and had my local dealer reprogram the new one from the old one's data. The only difference is that my convertible top started working soon after that. I read in other postings about SPDT relays that are just above the fuses, but I can't find any information about which relay would be affecting these components. Any ideas on next steps?
Hello, I just received a driver's side (L) door lock mechanism replacement for my 1997 Porsche Boxster. However, the wiring harnesses/connectors are different. Everything else is exactly the same. Please see attached photos. Any recommendations? Maybe an adapter? The part number is worn off of the old one but the numbers I do see are different, PA 66 30% GF (new), PA 66 30 FG< (old) Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Hi Everyone, Does anyone know how to change out a driver's door lock cylinder? The key won't work (and lock or unlock) the driver's door - it just spins in the lock. It appears that the cylinder has broken from the cam that sticks out behind it to turn and activate the electronic lock. I have removed the door panel and have the handle support with lock cylinder removed in my 99 artic silver. I can buy the support handle (with a cylinder and cam) from a dismantler, but don't see how to disassemble that part of the handle and swap in my already keyed cylinder. Has anyone had this issue and done this repair? Thanks, Phil in Chicago. Boxster Lock.docx