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wildbilly32

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Everything posted by wildbilly32

  1. Loren: I have read a lot on forums about the ignition switch problems, the electrical part. I do understand the difference between the electrical part and the entire locking mechanism. Above you mentioned "newer style switch". I have a 2005 996 C4S would this have been equipped with the newer style switch from the factory or should I continue to stress over possible future failure? Thanks and I appreciate your time in assisting with this forum.
  2. Here is an additional question on struts for my 2005 996 C4S with 53k miles. I'm 65 and feel the "s" version rides stiff enough already without lowering it. Thinking of renewing struts just due to the occasional pot hole rattle. Suggestions on which Bilstein Oe, Heavy duty or Sport and why. Thanks in advance.
  3. JFP in PA: Thanks, to hear you say that is all I need. Will get a spin-on kit for the end of season oil change. Your knowledge is much appreciated! Bill M.
  4. Ok have heard tons of recommendations for the spin-on filter mod and very few "don't do it" comments. Is it the thing to do? I mentioned it to my Indi once and his comment was "many European cars have the same set-up as oem 911". We talked about the possible by-pass failure mode of no filtering and he just listened. He has been working on European cars for over 30 years and I trust him. I don't drive the car in the winter so not worried about cold oil by-pass needs. Thanks for further guidance...
  5. Karl: Found it on suncoastparts.com code# 9X6DSSWX Pick Front Trunk switch (frunk :)), of course.
  6. Karl: From the blueprint it appears that the resistor and blocking diode is internal to the switch. I will try to find an ordering reference for the switch. I am just guessing on the switch being faulty.
  7. Okie: I tend to agree, however, I have read more since this post that claims tight tolerances between pistons and cylinder walls and the difference of metal expansion rates during the heating cycle from cold temps.. Scored cylinders are an acknowledged problem in 996's. I'm no engine expert, especially on these! I do understand thermal gains in differing metals and those must be tight clearances! Only experience I've had with pistons and liners being very differing metals were in engines that we ran in warm weather.
  8. Karl: No expert here and the blueprint for this circuit is confusing to me, my guess would be the "frunk(bonnet)" switch in the side sill. Since the engine lid switch works and is fed by same power source I would think you would have power to the frunk(bonnet)" switch as well. Also since it is released by the fob that should qualify the wiring from the central alarm box as well as the actuator. Per the blueprint it shows a resistor and diode within the switch(!) so opportunity to fail is there. I guess it could also be wiring from switch to alarm box or the box itself, but I would start with switch first. Good thing for you is the fob works so you're not locked out! As far as change out, not sure. Bentley book says "remove drivers seat first(!). remove 3 plastic covers(shown inside of sill). loosen T30 Torx screws 6 turns, do not remove. lever cover up using plastic prying tool. Good Luck.
  9. Several topics here and on Rennlist have been discussing operation in cold weather and the possible relationship to scored liners. While spring is here winter, unfortunately, is coming sooner than I would like. Living in NE. always offer below 20F weather in winter. Should I continue to park it in winter or buy winter wheels and tires and drive it? The reason I throw around 20F is a noted engine expert has questioned below 20F usage in regards to liner scoring. Fairly new to Porsche and very confused about this issue. 2005 996 C4S
  10. Please let us know what the repairs entail so we can all learn. Thanks
  11. I have heard others on forums talk about rodent damage to wiring while stored. I had this problem with my Nissan 300x and read about putting moth balls in netting and placing under hood while sitting for extended periods. Seemed to work! Guess they don't like the smell. Good luck on correcting the bare wire issues. Would guess you probably have one "open" as well interrupting the feed to the drivers side.
  12. You didn't say what year your car is so looking at the Bentley book leaves me guessing somewhat. What I didn't explain very well above was my bulb sockets had approximately 1/4" of the center contacts broken off(kinda a "z" shaped end). The small pieces were loose in the socket. I removed them thinking that was the shorting problem and bent the center contacts up to make sure they contact the bulb base. Kept blowing fuse and found when the bulb was installed the contact touched the body of the bulb cause short to ground. New wiring harness with sockets fixed it. So on your car with the 15amp fuse it no longer blows but the drivers side does not function? If true I would concentrate on that side bulb/socket as Hilux2400 suggested. BTW if your car is year 1999-2000 the 7.5 amp fuse might have been correct as it would be for the radio in position B2 in fuse panel. Bentley book shows: fuse B2: 7.5a 1999-2000 radio. 15a 2001-2005 hazard warning/turn signals fuse D7: 15a 1999-2000 hazard warning/turn signals. 15a 2001-2005 spoiler So depends on which year your car is as to which fuse protects the haz/turn signals. Of course this is for U.S. cars so hopefully the fuse box sheet is right for your car!?
  13. I had a similar issue with my 2005 996 C4S only with reverse lights. Kept blowing the fuse for that circuit. I would check the fuse that protects the turn signal circuits first. If blown, I would order replacement wiring harnesses for both rear tail lights. That cured my problems as I had found both reverse light sockets with the middle contact extension broken and tried to bend to work. All this did was allow the contact to touch the side of the bulb base creating a dead short and continued blowing the fuse. Should be a fuse location sheet inside of the fuse area cover. Hope this helps. I'm new at the world of Porsche, however, this appears to be a weak point for these cars based on our common issue!
  14. Loren is right about horn beep on locking doors. Can be as simple as the glove box left open. I know this does't fix your "no horn" situation, but beep on locking could be very simple. Trust me learned this the hard way!
  15. I own a 2005 996 C4S. Trying find out how many of these were produced in 2005. I read somewhere that 4012 996's were built as 2005's. I can't find any info on how many were built by model. Just curious. Thanks in advance for any info.
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