Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'trunk'.
Found 6 results
In my continuing quest of figuring out my alarm double beep issue, I'm trying to determine whether my trunk release solenoid is acting up. Does anyone know what the correct resistance should be across its pins? I'm getting about 4.7 Ohms. MY02 996 Carrera 2 Cabriolet.
2006 C2 Cab. Front lid won't operate either with remote or cabin switch. All my research on the web indicated the most likely culprit was the trunk lid actuator. I read that the solenoid sometimes fails because of the heat. Ordered the part from Pelican and installed but no luck. It was warm and made a noise when I plugged it in but nothing. Then most likely is the cabin switch although the engine compartment switch works fine. Got that part and installed, no luck. In many reviews of the chart I see no fuse dedicated to this operation. I'm now (unfortunately) very familiar with the manual methods to get the lid open when the switch won't work. Extremely frustrated! Any other thoughts? I'm out of ideas other than take it to the shop. Thanks!!
Hi All, Strange one here that been happening on my 01 Boxster with 140k for about 6 months now. Here are the symptoms. If anyone has a clue to what's going on, I'm desperate! All started happening at the same time. 1) Keys will not lock door or open trunks. Battery on both fobs are good. When depressed the red indicator light on the top of the dash blinks leading me to believe that the signal between key and car is good, but ignored. 2)When key is removed from ignition, the car 'goes dead'...meaning no interior lights, none of the switches on the console (except headlights) work...including the door lock switch and trunk releases. 3)The front trunk release (electric type, not mechanical) does not work at all. To test the servo to the front trunk, I connected leads from the battery to the unconnected servo and it worked. I would think that this rules out a bar servo. So, I haven't been able to lock my car or use the front trunk switch since this started. Before I started buying parts (front servos, switches, ignition systems, Main computer, etc) I wanted to see if anybody could help me out. Of course I'll be happy to go into detail about other aspects if necessary to diagnose! Thanks for your help!!
So this weekend I finally decided to send the problematic ECU in my 2001 Boxster S to ecudoctors.com hoping they can fix it. They require that you also send the immobilizer and one key. I removed the immobilizer first, and then proceeded to remove the ECU. I put the immobilizer and all the tools I was using in the rear trunk, and before I started removing the ECU, I made the very stupid mistake of closing the rear trunk. It is probably obvious to everyone, but you can't open anything without the immobilizer. I ended up following the suggestions in these two pages: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/27751-rear-truck-lid-wont-open/?hl=%2Brear+%2Btrunk+%2Bemergency#entry157456 http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/Worst_Case_Scenario.html Although it was not that difficult, it turned the simple task of removing the ECU into a 3 hour job (All my tools were in the trunk). Just wanted to post this so someone doing this procedure remembers to be extra careful.
I am installing a Dension Gateway 500 and a BTA 1500 in my 997 S Cabriolet. I am trying to find the best way to route the BTA
Hi Guys, I discovered that my 2005 CTT had about an inch of water in the boot. We had a particularly heavy downpour of rain recently and I assume somewhere there is another drain hole blocked, similar to the ones you get at the front of the car. Any ideas? I have dried the boot after removing everything from it, including the Bose SubWoofer (still don't know if it still works since it got wet) and poured water all over the back of the car but could not recreate the problem. Any help would be appreciated. I did find this post with the help of Google but without pictures it does not help very much even though it sounds like the exact problem: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cayenne/572581-water-trapped-somewhere-back.html Thanks is Advance, MaKS