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Found 7 results

  1. Hello everyone, As some of you may already know, we talked about designing a waterproof case for the Alarm Immobilizer Unit in Boxsters and 996s. These units get water damaged easily if the convertible top is left open during rain, or just by the accumulation of water by the car's water drains, because Porsche installed them right on the floor of the car. The costs entailed to repair this problem can reach $1,000's easily, that's why it would be more cost effectuve to protect the CLU to begin with. Therefore, after many months of revisions and working with vendors to complete this enclosure, we began shipping waterproof cases last week to the members that where on our waiting list. Below are a few screenshots of the installation video final Immobilizer Waterproof case. If you are curious about how it is mounted here is the installation video: and PDF instructions: http://goo.gl/A9NQou We're excited about this project and what it could mean to the Porsche community. Please share if you know someone that could benefit from this.
  2. Alright guys, Trying to do a little troubleshooting without all my books, so hoping you smarty pants on the forum can help me out. What sensors does the ECU look at during WOT? I have some serious stumble/stutter under WOT when I have smooth operation under partial throttle. Thanks in advance!
  3. I'm extremely frustrated with my 2001 Boxster S. It’s a long story but I’ll try to make it short. I bought the car 2 years ago for a decent price knowing it had a few issues, thinking I would be able to fix them. One of these issues is the engine running very rough when cold. From a stand still, if I press on the accelerator more than half-way during the first 10 minutes of turning the car on, it will lose power and backfire. It does this even in neutral. When the engine is warm, all of these issues go away. I took the car to several different shops, and none of them could fix it. They ran smoke tests to check for vacuum leaks, checked fuel pressure, replaced the MAF, temp sensor, AOS, spark plugs, ignition coils. One of the shops discovered it had hollow catalytic converters, and that the ECU might have been tampered with. I sent the unit to ecudoctors.com and they replaced it with a new one. After I installed the replacement, the car runs better than ever when the engine is warm, but still stalls when cold. I don’t know what else to do. Could the hollow catalytic converters be causing this? Anything else I should check? I have spent what I would consider an excessive amount of time and money trying to fix this and I still can't get it to work properly. My excitement about having this car has almost disappeared now that it's turned into a money pit :(
  4. So this weekend I finally decided to send the problematic ECU in my 2001 Boxster S to ecudoctors.com hoping they can fix it. They require that you also send the immobilizer and one key. I removed the immobilizer first, and then proceeded to remove the ECU. I put the immobilizer and all the tools I was using in the rear trunk, and before I started removing the ECU, I made the very stupid mistake of closing the rear trunk. It is probably obvious to everyone, but you can't open anything without the immobilizer. I ended up following the suggestions in these two pages: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/27751-rear-truck-lid-wont-open/?hl=%2Brear+%2Btrunk+%2Bemergency#entry157456 http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/Worst_Case_Scenario.html Although it was not that difficult, it turned the simple task of removing the ECU into a 3 hour job (All my tools were in the trunk). Just wanted to post this so someone doing this procedure remembers to be extra careful.
  5. Okay this is more than likely my fault for not getting my bulkhead drain grommets sorted out properly last autumn (they were blocked and causing water seepage into the cabin but when I was trying to clean it out I managed to push the old n/s grommet into never-never land.l bought a replacement and then did the same again! (To be fair it is a ba***rd to access as you'll know if you're familiar with this). I intended to try and access the never-never land area by removing the inner wheelarch liner in the Spring - by the way, as a separate issue, does anybody know if that will allow me to access/ retrieve/ refit the damned grommet? Anyway, onto the current issue.......the passenger carpet got wetter than I realised and although the ECU/ alarm unit seems positioned high enough away from the floor under the seat and is not covered with the carpet, I'm guessing that this has caused the problem that I have now. I.E. The central locking won't work now and only the drivers door can be locked with the key, plus the battery drains completely overnight. I took out both the passenger seat and the carpet to have a look, but although there was some water (not that much as there is a small hole drilled in one corner acting as a drain!), the ECU/ alarm unit appeared to be dry. Having tried to find a solution on various forums/ searches, I haven't seen this fault replcated or explained anywhere else, although my thinking is that it is actually the ECU which is the problem due to moisture ingress? Anyone know if I'm right and if it is the ECU, what's the best solution please, repair (how?) or replace? I've read some stuff about a reprogramming issue with new units? Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Tony
  6. Hellp Please, Just the other day I started getting a hiccup/ hesitation in my 996. First noticed it when I started the car, it typically idles at about 1200 RPM's cold start, however this morning it was at 850 or 900. After 1 minute it was still a bit rough at 750 RPMs. When we started driving I had to press the accelerator a little more than usual. We jump onto the highway ramp and in 2nd :drive: gear floored it at 3900 to 4100 RPM’s BURP BURP and :cursing: then smoothed out up to 7K hit 3rd :drive: gear and right at 3800 to 4200 RPM’s same thing like I took my foot of the gas and then floored it again . As soon as I got home I jumped onto RENNTECH and looked for similar issues, found some like possible, Mass air flow sensor, miss fire in spark plug / wire issue etc. I took it over to the Porsche Dealer and had them run diagnostics on it. They said the error was: ERROR CODE: T107 "ambient pressure plausible signal" Then they proceeded to tell me I needed a new DMA which would cost $2,700 :angry: complete with labor. I told them nope not yet, and decided to get a second, 3rd and 4th opinion. It seems like every time I take the car to them they see the $/ goof tattoo on my forehead. Any assistance or recommendations would be really appreciated!!! Thanks
  7. Hi All, I've owned a 2004 Cayenne Turbo now for a year and its a great car when all is working correctly. In the time that I have owned this car, I have been unlucky enough to receive a few error codes on the durametrics program I have or lately on the Rev Diagonistic tool I have for my iphone. I'd just finished fitting new parts for the fuel evap valve and a compressor rebuild kit, and re-setting all the codes in the ECU and all was fine, prior to going away, working abroad for 5 weeks, and all was good when I left. I've got back to find the battery flat (no shock there) but after re-charging it for a day, and going for a good long drive in the country, the car is now majorly playing up, giving me 5 error codes. These are : P0153 O2 sensor slow response (Bank 2, Sensor 1) - (Think this is fair enough, just wear and tear, getting old) but tonight I have this lot :- P0299 Turbocharger Underboost P0300 Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected Now could the above four codes be caused by a poor battery? I've put my multimeter across the battery and it's only about 12.5v sitting idle, although when the engine is on, it's getting the full 14v from the alternator. I'm looking to go and get a new battery next week, but do I go and get it from my local porsche dealer?? or can I get one from the volkswagen dealer (normally the same part as a toureg, but cheaper) or do I go and get one from a parts store?? lastly, I was on the phone to my local dealer this morning and I was asking about coding or re-flashing the ECU, and thing led to another and we got onto the subject of the error codes, storing them and re-setting them. They said to me "when fitting the likes of the oxygen sensor, or the evap valve, the part has to be coded into the ECU". Is this the same as re-settng the codes using the durametrics or Rev app that I have? They also said that, some programs like the bosch systems can't reset the ECU properly and only the Porsche centre computers that the dealers use can reset the ECU properly & fully. Is this BS?, because this is the first I have heard of this? Thanks in Advance Regards Chris
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