Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Install Springs?


Recommended Posts

:eek: OK I know it's common with reverse engineering sense when it comes down to replacing parts in cars, but I wanted to see if any1 knew of any tricks in replacing the springs with after market performance springs. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you know what you are doing then this is a 4-6 hour job. It helps to have another pair of hands at times.

Theoretically you could change the springs without fully removing the strut from the car. You could just tip them out, undo the nut at the top of the strut that holds the spring, replace the spring and bolt it all back in. I took the wheel carrier and strut completely off of the car.

To pop the ball joints apart you need the porshe ball joint tool $80. There are other ways of getting them apart (you can whack on the control arm, you can use a hex bit in the head of the ball joint and whack on that, etc.)

You need 18mm tools (socket, wrench) which is not common to most tool sets. Also an 18mm crow foot is useful when retorquing one of the ball joints.

You need 8mm (I think) hex bit to remove the bolts that hold the drive shafts to the transmission.

The fronts come out easy as you can depress the control arm far enough to swing the top of the strut out of the wheel well.

The rears are a pain which is why you have to disconnect the drive shafts from the transmission. Once you have disconnected the drive shafts then you can push down on the control arm enough so that you can swing the top of the strut out of the wheel well.

I also like to loosen the nut at the top of the strut that holds the spring in place while the strut is still in the car. Trying to do this on the bench with the strut out of the car is a lot harder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are good instructions. However this method shows removing the axle nut for the rears in order to remove the wheel carrier and strut from the car. Keep in mind that the torque on this nut on reinstall is 348 ft-lbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.