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Spark plug socket boot slight crack on last cylinder


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1st thaks to all on this forum for the support and replies on my questions to date. This past weekend I replaced the spark plugs on our 98 986. It was easily accomplished as I followed all of the threads from this forum to complete the work in a little under 2 hours. That being said I ran into a little issue on the very last plug. Upon pulling the ignition coil and spark plug socket boot out of the cylinder I noticed a 3/4 crack slit in the plastic insulation that surrounds the hard plastic inner spark plug socket. The car runs like a top with no codes or misfires. It is approcaching the 90k service interval so I changed the plugs and when I did I found this defect. Since I did not have a spare spark plug socket or coil assem I swaped out the plug and put it back as I had with the other 5. Lowered the car and vrooommm no issues or misfires. My question is this part avail as just the spark plug socket 996 602 103 01 , 996 602 105 00 or do I need to buy a complete coil assembly. The PET exploded view is a bit confusing.

Loren you are the go to guy along with Toolpants on these types of issues do I leave as is or replace.

Thanks in advance

m2

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The spark plug tubes are new as of last Jan. The part I am referring to in the LONG rubber tube that extendes down from the ignition coil body. Only the outer rubber insulation is split 3/4 inch. The hard plastic underneath is intact and it runs perfectly. I was concerned going forward if this might cause a misfire but it seems to be ok as is. All of the coils upon inspection were in excellent condition and were cleaned of grime and reinstalled and slipped perfectly into the new spark plug tubes?

So do I leave as is or replace the whole coil assembly?

:)

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Loren, thank you...yes the coil is perfect and in good working condition. I only need the bottom boot piece. Such a shame to have to jack it up again take off the tire and take out the coil pack for this rubber tube. But it's a harsh environment...better to replace then to start having misfires.

Thanks again...

m2

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Loren, thanks I have the boot now in my hands...here's the question how do you take the old boot off of the coil pack. It looks like it just sildes dwon from the coil pack where it transitions from the square to the round. There is clearly a transition point from the coil pack to the rubber boot sleeve. Does it just pull of and then slide back on. At this point I dont want to YANK and then damage the coil as it's in good working order.

Tks... m2

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Loren, thanks I have the boot now in my hands...here's the question how do you take the old boot off of the coil pack. It looks like it just sildes dwon from the coil pack where it transitions from the square to the round. There is clearly a transition point from the coil pack to the rubber boot sleeve. Does it just pull of and then slide back on. At this point I dont want to YANK and then damage the coil as it's in good working order.

Tks... m2

Yes, it should pull off and the new one push on.

If the old one is 'glued' in place from heat then you might carefully cut it off.

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Loren, upon inspection of the new spark plug sleeve it looks like the top actually has a small 1 turn locking thread that holds it onto the coil pack. When I remove the defective sleeve tomorrow I will try and take a digital pic to show anyone else that might encounter this how the actual sleeve twists off and then twists on. With a tiny bit if a product I use called Microlon (anti friction for engines) dropped between the old sleeve and coil body this will break free any potential binding from heat and allow me to twist off the old and reinstall the new sleeve.

Just an FYI for the forum and I'll post before and after pics for future reference.

See pics attached for the old and new spark plug sleeve and the twist lock at the top. It installed in under 5 mins once the car was jacked up, the wheel was removed and the coil pack taken off. Just a wiggle, twist and an audible disengement then back on the same way. Coil bolts tightened...coil connector cliped and tire on, lowered...wheel bolts replaced and IGNITION....ran even better. I believe there was a small almost not noticed miss fire from that cylinder as the insulation was cracked and some level of spark was not completely directed to the spark plug crown. The dealer suggested that since the other 5 were in perfect condition it made sense to correct this defect. For under $20.00 it was well worth the extra effort to fix this.

First pic is of the 'split' spark plug boot.

The second is the new one.

The 3rd is the pic of the 'twist' locking part that connects to the coil body.

Thanks again

M2

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post-46785-1255910451_thumb.jpg

post-46785-1255910461_thumb.jpg

Edited by mcmike27
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