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orangem

Plastic Drain Pan Replacement

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I notice that the plastic drip pan (sorry got it wrong on the title) on passenger side is damaged and is leaking. There a hole which I think can be repaired but the pan can no longer goes underneath the body on the body side. No matter how I pull it, it simply will not underneath the body work unlike the driver side. I think this is where a lot of the leaking into cabin takes place. Do you think can the top leak into the cabin because the drip pan is not wrapped underneath the body work?

If I replace the passenger side pan, what's the easiest way to do it without removing the top? Can I simply unbolt one bolt at a time on the top frame and slide the pan in?

Also, is the computer underneath the driver side? I hope the flood on passenger side would not have adverse effects. (Note US car)

Thanks

William

Edited by orangem

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I notice that the plastic drip pan (sorry got it wrong on the title) on passenger side is damaged and is leaking. There a hole which I think can be repaired but the pan can no longer goes underneath the body on the body side. No matter how I pull it, it simply will not underneath the body work unlike the driver side. I think this is where a lot of the leaking into cabin takes place. Do you think can the top leak into the cabin because the drip pan is not wrapped underneath the body work?

If I replace the passenger side pan, what's the easiest way to do it without removing the top? Can I simply unbolt one bolt at a time on the top frame and slide the pan in?

Also, is the computer underneath the driver side? I hope the flood on passenger side would not have adverse effects. (Note US car)

Thanks

William

William:

The central alarm computer is under the driver's side seat (left side) on U.S. Boxsters.

You can loosen all three 13 mm bolts on the opposite side of the side that you want to lift, and remove all three bolts on the side you want to lift and get a little space to slide part of the foam drain tray under the base of the convertible top frame.

The foam drain tray must be completely intact or sealed with black silicone adhesive, otherwise it will absolutely allow water to intrude into the cabin.

I'm assuming you are talking about the portion of the drain tray that meets the base of the convertible top frame, not the part of the drain tray that tucks under the sheet metal above the V-lever black plastic protective plates.

If you have a photo of the area you are talking about, it would make it easier to advise you on how to seal it up.

Regards, Maurice.

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I notice that the plastic drip pan (sorry got it wrong on the title) on passenger side is damaged and is leaking. There a hole which I think can be repaired but the pan can no longer goes underneath the body on the body side. No matter how I pull it, it simply will not underneath the body work unlike the driver side. I think this is where a lot of the leaking into cabin takes place. Do you think can the top leak into the cabin because the drip pan is not wrapped underneath the body work?

If I replace the passenger side pan, what's the easiest way to do it without removing the top? Can I simply unbolt one bolt at a time on the top frame and slide the pan in?

Also, is the computer underneath the driver side? I hope the flood on passenger side would not have adverse effects. (Note US car)

Thanks

William

William:

The central alarm computer is under the driver's side seat (left side) on U.S. Boxsters.

You can loosen all three 13 mm bolts on the opposite side of the side that you want to lift, and remove all three bolts on the side you want to lift and get a little space to slide part of the foam drain tray under the base of the convertible top frame.

The foam drain tray must be completely intact or sealed with black silicone adhesive, otherwise it will absolutely allow water to intrude into the cabin.

I'm assuming you are talking about the portion of the drain tray that meets the base of the convertible top frame, not the part of the drain tray that tucks under the sheet metal above the V-lever black plastic protective plates.

If you have a photo of the area you are talking about, it would make it easier to advise you on how to seal it up.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice,

Here's some pictures

Note the first image red circle is where the hole is and the whole tray is contorted at the back. The green circle on the upper right should tuck underneath the bodywork but it could no longer.

IMG_0817.jpgFrom boxster">

The second picture shows the tray looking from the front. Note the part of the tray denoted by red circle should screw to where the rusty string is but that part is completely ripped out. Also, the green circle part is twisted and can no longer tuck underneath the body work. I guess this is where a lot of water leaked into the cabin as well (between the body and the tray).

IMG_0810.jpgFrom boxster

">

Any ideas on how this tray can be salvaged or should i just simply get another tray?

Thanks

William

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Thanks Maurice,

Here's some pictures

Note the first image red circle is where the hole is and the whole tray is contorted at the back. The green circle on the upper right should tuck underneath the bodywork but it could no longer.

IMG_0817.jpgFrom boxster">

The second picture shows the tray looking from the front. Note the part of the tray denoted by red circle should screw to where the rusty string is but that part is completely ripped out. Also, the green circle part is twisted and can no longer tuck underneath the body work. I guess this is where a lot of water leaked into the cabin as well (between the body and the tray).

IMG_0810.jpgFrom boxster

">

Any ideas on how this tray can be salvaged or should i just simply get another tray?

Thanks

William

William:

The photos make it a lot clearer.

In all likelihood, the biggest problem vis-a-vis water intrusion is the small hole circled in red in your first photo.

You can definitely seal that up with some Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.

The other parts that are twisted out of shape can probably only be straightened out by removing the complete top and frame assembly (which you would have to do anyway to install a brand new drain tray if you decided to go that route.

Here is a DIY for removing the complete top and frame assembly. It's relatively easy if you have even minimal DIY skills, and should only take about 1 1/2 hours start to finish: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/removingthetopandframe

Once you remove the top and frame assembly, you can then remove the drain trays. They are made of foam material and you can "straighten" them back to their original shape by stuffing them with some newspapers or plastic bubble wrap. If you leave them like that for a few days, they can regain their original shape. You should then examine them and, if necessary, seal up any tears or rips with the silicone sealant. If necessary, you can use "outdoor" duct tape underneath the tear or rip as a "backing" for the silicone sealant that you can apply from the top side.

Once you have the drain trays out, be sure to examine the plastic hollow cup that leads to the drain hose to be sure there is no crack in that part, and that it is solidly connected to the drain hose beneath it.

If you don't want to go to all of that trouble, you can simply replace the drain trays with new ones. They are a little pricey for pieces of shaped foam, but a lot less expensive than a new central alarm computer.

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks Maurice,

Here's some pictures

Note the first image red circle is where the hole is and the whole tray is contorted at the back. The green circle on the upper right should tuck underneath the bodywork but it could no longer.

The second picture shows the tray looking from the front. Note the part of the tray denoted by red circle should screw to where the rusty string is but that part is completely ripped out. Also, the green circle part is twisted and can no longer tuck underneath the body work. I guess this is where a lot of water leaked into the cabin as well (between the body and the tray).

Any ideas on how this tray can be salvaged or should i just simply get another tray?

Thanks

William

William:

The photos make it a lot clearer.

In all likelihood, the biggest problem vis-a-vis water intrusion is the small hole circled in red in your first photo.

You can definitely seal that up with some Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant.

The other parts that are twisted out of shape can probably only be straightened out by removing the complete top and frame assembly (which you would have to do anyway to install a brand new drain tray if you decided to go that route.

Here is a DIY for removing the complete top and frame assembly. It's relatively easy if you have even minimal DIY skills, and should only take about 1 1/2 hours start to finish: http://sites.google....gthetopandframe

Once you remove the top and frame assembly, you can then remove the drain trays. They are made of foam material and you can "straighten" them back to their original shape by stuffing them with some newspapers or plastic bubble wrap. If you leave them like that for a few days, they can regain their original shape. You should then examine them and, if necessary, seal up any tears or rips with the silicone sealant. If necessary, you can use "outdoor" duct tape underneath the tear or rip as a "backing" for the silicone sealant that you can apply from the top side.

Once you have the drain trays out, be sure to examine the plastic hollow cup that leads to the drain hose to be sure there is no crack in that part, and that it is solidly connected to the drain hose beneath it.

If you don't want to go to all of that trouble, you can simply replace the drain trays with new ones. They are a little pricey for pieces of shaped foam, but a lot less expensive than a new central alarm computer.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice for your writeup.

Looks like I lucked out. I was able to use a blow dryer to restore the tray while the tray is still in the car. I will proceed by using permatex to patch the tray.

Thanks

William

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Thanks Maurice for your writeup.

Looks like I lucked out. I was able to use a blow dryer to restore the tray while the tray is still in the car. I will proceed by using permatex to patch the tray.

Thanks

William

William:

Way to go! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Glad I could help!

Regards, Maurice.

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