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Upgraded to later lock - problem

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The thunk noise is the lock sliding in to lock the stering wheel. It's possible for the mechanical part of the lock to go bad, but most likely the electrical portion of the switch not returning. If you do a search for ignition switch you'll find several threads. Several places have DIY instructions to replace the switch or the whole thing. You can get the black old style switch for about $10 and try it. If it is the locking mechanism you have to buy the new style lock assembley that comes with the white switch, I think it's about $120.

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Just replaced the unit with the updated assy - everything works fine other than return to position 0. Release hole in lock barrel moved from 1:00 to 7:00 position - could that be a problem?


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There is a tab on the lock that has an electrical connector that lines up with a notch in the lock assy so I don't see how it could be. Not sure how the release hole rotated 180 degrees - everything works fine.

Only problem is the key won't return to position 0 like it should - car shuts off, dash lights go out but key just pulls out and chime rings when door is open with the key removed.

BTW1 - I don't think the thunk I expect to hear in position 0 is the column lock as that does not happen until the key seats at 0.

BTW2 - I had to reach in with a screw driver and turn the notched hole in the lock assy to get the barrel lock to align and seat.

BTW3 - This is how mine is now positioned as shown in figure 2 - red arrow shows tab that aligns with notch in lock assy:




Edited by UtahWJR
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