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Clamshell/convertible top repair


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Thanks to the posts on this website and others I'm about to attempt to repair the convertible top of a friends Boxster 986 MY2000. There's a lot of great information about top repairs but I haven't seen a lot about the clamshell mechanisms. It would appear to be pretty straight forward parts replacements but I want to be prepared when I start the job. Any advice, or better yet, specific threads regarding the replacement of the guide arms and hinge levers for the clamshell actuation? Pic attached.

post-60662-086892300 1282490804_thumb.jp

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Thanks to the posts on this website and others I'm about to attempt to repair the convertible top of a friends Boxster 986 MY2000. There's a lot of great information about top repairs but I haven't seen a lot about the clamshell mechanisms. It would appear to be pretty straight forward parts replacements but I want to be prepared when I start the job. Any advice, or better yet, specific threads regarding the replacement of the guide arms and hinge levers for the clamshell actuation? Pic attached.

Ceejay:

When you are replacing the body colored guide arm, you will have to disconnect the black "hydraulic" pushrod, so just be careful that the clamshell (if it was connected), or more accurately the V-lever, is in a position that does not put the pushrod under pressure as that will make it easier to reconnect. If the black pushrod is under pressure, it's very difficult to disconnect and then can jump off with considerable force.

Also, while you are in there, it might be a good idea to inspect and replace the rubber bushes (inserts) that may be worn out. For example, there is one in the hole in the guide arm where the black pushrod's little perpendicular arm gets inserted.

When you are pulling off those locking clips, be careful they don't go flying off.

Before you start, make a careful notation and take some photos of the position of the V-levers so that you have a starting point when you go to reassemble.

Finally, try to figure out what caused the guide arm(s) to break as they should not break under normal operation and you don't want to do this job again.

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks to the posts on this website and others I'm about to attempt to repair the convertible top of a friends Boxster 986 MY2000. There's a lot of great information about top repairs but I haven't seen a lot about the clamshell mechanisms. It would appear to be pretty straight forward parts replacements but I want to be prepared when I start the job. Any advice, or better yet, specific threads regarding the replacement of the guide arms and hinge levers for the clamshell actuation? Pic attached.

Ceejay:

When you are replacing the body colored guide arm, you will have to disconnect the black "hydraulic" pushrod, so just be careful that the clamshell (if it was connected), or more accurately the V-lever, is in a position that does not put the pushrod under pressure as that will make it easier to reconnect. If the black pushrod is under pressure, it's very difficult to disconnect and then can jump off with considerable force.

Also, while you are in there, it might be a good idea to inspect and replace the rubber bushes (inserts) that may be worn out. For example, there is one in the hole in the guide arm where the black pushrod's little perpendicular arm gets inserted.

When you are pulling off those locking clips, be careful they don't go flying off.

Before you start, make a careful notation and take some photos of the position of the V-levers so that you have a starting point when you go to reassemble.

Finally, try to figure out what caused the guide arm(s) to break as they should not break under normal operation and you don't want to do this job again.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the advice, actually I'm getting involved long after the guide arm broke. Everything is dissassembled including the top itself, the V-lever, pushrods, etc. After reading several posts in this forum I'm assuming the plastic end on one of the pushrods broke causing the top to get hung up while being lowered (owner told me the top was halfway down when it got stuck, and I found a broken plastic connector among the parts)

The dealer she called told her to see if she could force the top down and that's where the trouble started. That's where the guide arm got broken and the clamshell slightly dimpled.

She took it to the dealer who disassembled everything and gave her a quote for way more money than she wants to spend to fix it right now. The dealer put her hardtop on for her and it's been this way for over a year.

Given that I came in after everything was disassembled (no marks on the transmissions to indicate where the V-levers were when taken off) do you think I'm overly optimistic that I can put back into working order. There's a lot of good information here, I have a mechanical aptitude and believe I can do it. I'm nervous about getting everything lined up and adjusted for proper operation but I haven't seen anything that makes me believe I can't do it.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the advice, actually I'm getting involved long after the guide arm broke. Everything is dissassembled including the top itself, the V-lever, pushrods, etc. After reading several posts in this forum I'm assuming the plastic end on one of the pushrods broke causing the top to get hung up while being lowered (owner told me the top was halfway down when it got stuck, and I found a broken plastic connector among the parts)

The dealer she called told her to see if she could force the top down and that's where the trouble started. That's where the guide arm got broken and the clamshell slightly dimpled.

She took it to the dealer who disassembled everything and gave her a quote for way more money than she wants to spend to fix it right now. The dealer put her hardtop on for her and it's been this way for over a year.

Given that I came in after everything was disassembled (no marks on the transmissions to indicate where the V-levers were when taken off) do you think I'm overly optimistic that I can put back into working order. There's a lot of good information here, I have a mechanical aptitude and believe I can do it. I'm nervous about getting everything lined up and adjusted for proper operation but I haven't seen anything that makes me believe I can't do it.

Ceejay:

I don't think that you are being overly optimistic. If you have all the parts, it can be put back into working condition with relatively minimal expense.

Since the only way that either the clamshell or the canvas top can move is through the rotation of the V-levers, it's hard to believe that a dealer would tell her to force the top down. There is even an "emergency procedure" for operating the top manually in the owner's manual, and it does not involve any forcing of anything.

Perhaps you could take a few photos of the present state of affairs at the V-levers, at the electric motor, and at the base of the B-pillars so that we can see what you are starting with.

Giving us the year of the Boxster will make figuring out what you should do first easier, depending on whether you have the "A Version" or "B Version" transmissions and set-up.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

I agree, it wouldn't make sense for a dealer to tell her to do something that could cause further damage. Unfortunately, I don't know what did happen.

The Boxster is a 2000 Model year and from what I've read here that would make it the "B" version transmissions. I'll try to get some more photos but at the moment all I can do is describe what I saw.

The pic on my original post shows the broken clamshell hinge lever pn 98656157201. The only other visible damage is the plastic connector on the pushrod pn 98656127902. Based on some of the threads in this forum I theorize that the pushrod connector gave out, the transmissions got out of synch and when the top stuck she tried to force it down breaking the hinge lever. But I'm speculating and realize it's only that.

I did take the hardtop off and examined the transmissions, motor and cables. We tried the switch to close the top and the motor turned the transmissions. When we tried the opposite direction the motor didn't come on and the transmissions were stationary. Is this normal? Should it go in both directions at any point of the process or does it have to reach one end or the other to change directions?

One of the big questions I have is regarding the timing of the V-levers. Should I rotate them to either full open or shut position before connecting to the top and clamshell? Service position?

I appreciate the technical support this forum offers.

Thanks

C

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Maurice,

I agree, it wouldn't make sense for a dealer to tell her to do something that could cause further damage. Unfortunately, I don't know what did happen.

The Boxster is a 2000 Model year and from what I've read here that would make it the "B" version transmissions. I'll try to get some more photos but at the moment all I can do is describe what I saw.

The pic on my original post shows the broken clamshell hinge lever pn 98656157201. The only other visible damage is the plastic connector on the pushrod pn 98656127902. Based on some of the threads in this forum I theorize that the pushrod connector gave out, the transmissions got out of synch and when the top stuck she tried to force it down breaking the hinge lever. But I'm speculating and realize it's only that.

I did take the hardtop off and examined the transmissions, motor and cables. We tried the switch to close the top and the motor turned the transmissions. When we tried the opposite direction the motor didn't come on and the transmissions were stationary. Is this normal? Should it go in both directions at any point of the process or does it have to reach one end or the other to change directions?

One of the big questions I have is regarding the timing of the V-levers. Should I rotate them to either full open or shut position before connecting to the top and clamshell? Service position?

I appreciate the technical support this forum offers.

Thanks

C

C:

The transmissions should be able to turn in either direction at almost any point in the cycle, but I wouldn't be too concerned about that for now.

You should procure a new pair of the plastic ball cups for the front pushrods, especially if the ones that were on the car (one of which is apparently still intact from your description) are red. Those tend to be more brittle and were replaced with more flexible and durable ones which are now white in color. Unfortunately, Porsche only sells the front pushrods with the plastic ball cups as a complete assembly. You can save a few dollars by buying the front pushrods for a 987 as they are functionally the same but a little cheaper at Porsche for some reason. If you want to buy just replacement ball cups, let me know and I'll send you a PM for a guy in the Netherlands who has had them duplicated for a fraction of the pushrod assembly cost.

Since the car is a 2000, you almost definitely have the B-version set-up. To easily determine which version without dismantling the V-levers, etc., take a look at the double relay for the top, which is located in the kick panel just to the left of your left calf when you are sitting in the driver's seat. If you have the B Version, the relay will have a black square imprinted on its visible white surface. Here is a photo of the two types of relays, side by side:

post-6627-019994100 1282617138_thumb.jpg

You should also be able to confirm that there is no black lever microswitch installed on top of the electric motor, although there may be a slot for where the black lever used to stick up on the A Version setups. Here is a photo of that location WITH the black lever microswitch...yours should NOT have this black lever, just the slot:

post-6627-093668900 1282618003_thumb.jpg

To help narrow down the cause of the original problem, try to establish whether you have the earlier type cables, which were prone to stretching and causing that 'tweak" on the clamshell lid... Here is a close-up photo of the LATER version cables, which should show a "cross-hatch" pattern on their surface:

post-6627-071530300 1282617804_thumb.jpg

Let us know if you don't have this version of cables, as you should then inspect the point at which the cables are connected to the electric motor to determine whether the cables have "stretched", and we can determine whether you should replace them or attempt to repair them without going to the expense of buying a new pair.

Once you get through all of this, you can proceed to the timing of the transmissions and the position of the V-levers, which can best be accomplished by using the service position as a starting point. The only tricky part is to make ABSOLUTELY certain that the V-levers are not installed in the upside down (180 degrees off) position, which is unfortunately possible due to the design of the keyway at the back of the V-lever.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the speedy replies.

I had read a lot of the top repair threads in this forum prior to digging in a bit deeper and checked specificaly for the microswitch on the top motor when I had the top off this past weekend. It was not there. I also looked closely at the cables and saw the cross-hatch pattern of the underlying shield. So with a fair amount of certainty I can say we have the "B" version transmissions and the later version of the cables.

I followed a link on this website to Porsche's website and downloaded the Parts Katalog in pdf format. I found the hinge lever, pushrod and associated bushings and clips and ordered them from Sunset Porsche - also from a link on this website. They were very helpful and for less than $300 I have the parts I need.......at least so far. It'll be a couple weeks before the parts arrive so I'm looking at Labor Day weekend to perform the repairs.

I ordered the pushrod for the passenger side only since the other side was intact. Maybe I should order the other side also? The connectors are red and I guess I may be setting myself up to do this again should the other side fail.

Your caution about taking care to make sure the V-Levers are not installed upside down is well noted. After reading that it is clear that installing them in the wrong position could result in bigger problems than we currently have. How do I make sure that they are in the proper position?

Your support is much appreciated.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the speedy replies.

I had read a lot of the top repair threads in this forum prior to digging in a bit deeper and checked specificaly for the microswitch on the top motor when I had the top off this past weekend. It was not there. I also looked closely at the cables and saw the cross-hatch pattern of the underlying shield. So with a fair amount of certainty I can say we have the "B" version transmissions and the later version of the cables.

I followed a link on this website to Porsche's website and downloaded the Parts Katalog in pdf format. I found the hinge lever, pushrod and associated bushings and clips and ordered them from Sunset Porsche - also from a link on this website. They were very helpful and for less than $300 I have the parts I need.......at least so far. It'll be a couple weeks before the parts arrive so I'm looking at Labor Day weekend to perform the repairs.

I ordered the pushrod for the passenger side only since the other side was intact. Maybe I should order the other side also? The connectors are red and I guess I may be setting myself up to do this again should the other side fail.

Your caution about taking care to make sure the V-Levers are not installed upside down is well noted. After reading that it is clear that installing them in the wrong position could result in bigger problems than we currently have. How do I make sure that they are in the proper position?

Your support is much appreciated.

C:

You are quite welcome...Labor Day sounds good for getting the top back in operating condition.

Good to see that you are getting the parts you need. I think it's a good idea to replace the other pushrod's plastic ball cup and to keep the existing red one as a spare. It's good preventive medicine. Also, if the clamshell is not tweaked too badly and has not left a deep crease, you can remove it and bring it to a body shop to have its Paintless Dent Removal guy make it like new again.

If your current broken plastic ball cup has a remnant that is still on the old pushrod, be sure to count (or mark with nail polish) the number of threads that the ball cup is screwed on so that you can duplicate the exact length onto the new pushrod and ball cup. Same with the other, intact side. It's important as a starting point to duplicate the exact overall length of the pushrod as it will affect how the leading edge of the top on each side mates up with the top horizontal surface of the windshield frame.

To eliminate the "stretched cable" problem as a possible cause of the original malfunction, go to this link and take a look at the text in post #2 and the photos in post #3 to evaluate your inner "speedometer-type" cables: http://www.renntech....__1#entry183153

Note that in the photos in post #3 of the link above, the poster has the smooth-sided early cables...the first photo shows a good condition, the second photo shows an inner cable that has "retracted" inside the outer, stretched, vinyl housing, which must be repaired or replaced.

For the position of the V-levers, I will take a few photos of the properly installed position starting from the service position and you can use that as a reference.

While you are at it, you can also take this opportunity to lubricate the channels in which the black sliders slide back and forth on. You can locate the channels by following the body-colored clamshell support arm down to where its steel ball is pressed into the black plastic slider, just above the V-levers, on the inside surface of the quarter panel. You can use a spray can of white lithium grease or Krytox lubricant in the channels and at the spot where the steel ball is pressed into the black plastic slider.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Maurice,

Here's a couple pics of the box of parts I was given. The V-Lever's don't appear to be bent and the top opens and closes effortlessly - at least on the workbench.

post-60662-074699700 1282740591_thumb.jp

There is a tab on one of the pushrods that appears to be bent. See the pic. I didn't order a replacement for this part but thinking maybe I should've.

post-60662-012092000 1282740527_thumb.jp

Also, I wasn't able to locate the relay to see if it had the black square on it. I found the fuse box under a panel where you indicated the relay would be found. All I saw in there were fuses and a black switch that could be operated through a cutout in the fuse box cover. Was I looking in the right place?

post-60662-039648400 1282740469_thumb.jp

I'll get some pics of the top compartment this weekend. I appreciate your advice along the way.

Thanks

C

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Maurice,

Here's a couple pics of the box of parts I was given. The V-Lever's don't appear to be bent and the top opens and closes effortlessly - at least on the workbench.

post-60662-074699700 1282740591_thumb.jp

There is a tab on one of the pushrods that appears to be bent. See the pic. I didn't order a replacement for this part but thinking maybe I should've.

post-60662-012092000 1282740527_thumb.jp

Also, I wasn't able to locate the relay to see if it had the black square on it. I found the fuse box under a panel where you indicated the relay would be found. All I saw in there were fuses and a black switch that could be operated through a cutout in the fuse box cover. Was I looking in the right place?

post-60662-039648400 1282740469_thumb.jp

I'll get some pics of the top compartment this weekend. I appreciate your advice along the way.

Thanks

C

C:

Excellent photos!

All the parts appear to be in good shape. There should be no problem with that bent tab...just straighten it out to match the other black pushrod.

Notice the blue loctite on the 19mm bolts, and make sure you use some when you bolt those back in.

Also, you can actually see how far the broken red plastic ball cup was screwed in by looking at where the dirt on the plastic threads end, and the same with the rust on the threaded rod end. You should duplicate that as your starting point on that side.

As for the double relay, you are looking in the right place, but you have to look a little higher up, as the relay tray is above the fuse panel. Note that the fuse panel cover has been pulled off in this photo, and this is what you should see if you look up a little higher:

post-6627-063779400 1282753606_thumb.jpg

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks M,

I'm going to be taking another close look at the car this weekend and making final preparations to actually do the repair.

I'll take another look for the relay. The pic on it's location shows why I didn't see it. I was looking a little too low.

I'm pretty darn sure I've got the "B" version transmissions. If I read information correctly these transmissions determine when the motor shuts off in both directions. If this is correct, I'd like to run the transmissions to the end stopping point in both directions for a couple reasons. First, I tried the motor last weekend to see if the transmissions turned and they did - in one direction. (can't say I'm sure which direction worked - getting old and the memory isn't what it used to be) I'd also like to see if anything else shows up while doing this. At this point all the levers and pushrods are dismantled so it would just be the motor, cables, and transmissions I'll be testing but that's what I want to see. Any concerns about this plan?

I'll be taking some pics as well.

Thanks

C

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Thanks M,

I'm going to be taking another close look at the car this weekend and making final preparations to actually do the repair.

I'll take another look for the relay. The pic on it's location shows why I didn't see it. I was looking a little too low.

I'm pretty darn sure I've got the "B" version transmissions. If I read information correctly these transmissions determine when the motor shuts off in both directions. If this is correct, I'd like to run the transmissions to the end stopping point in both directions for a couple reasons. First, I tried the motor last weekend to see if the transmissions turned and they did - in one direction. (can't say I'm sure which direction worked - getting old and the memory isn't what it used to be) I'd also like to see if anything else shows up while doing this. At this point all the levers and pushrods are dismantled so it would just be the motor, cables, and transmissions I'll be testing but that's what I want to see. Any concerns about this plan?

I'll be taking some pics as well.

Thanks

C

C:

If you do have the B Version transmissions, it's actually a good idea to test them with all four pushrods disconnected since there would not be any external microswitches to be concerned about tripping.

Assuming you have the "B Version" transmissions and set up, If the V-levers end up only turning in one direction, it's either a malfunction of the double relay or one of the two switches inside the driver's side transmission (the one that took over the function of the external B-Pillar microswitch).

Regards, Maurice.

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M,

So I dug in deeper and I'm a bit discouraged. I found the inner fender on the passenger side sustained some damage causing the transmission to be out of alignment with the clamshell hinges. It's not real easy to see from the pics but the pushrod doesn't line up very well.

post-60662-019623200 1283187207_thumb.jp

post-60662-084184900 1283187225_thumb.jp

I also found the transmission cable on the drivers side had been sheared at the motor. Seems like a relatively easy replacement but I'm not sure why it sheared. (the inner cable had sheared directly at the point it meets the outer sheathing)

The motor works as do the transmissions but I'm not sure what to do about the damaged inner fender. I'm tempted to try to bend it as close to where it should be as possible.

Relay is the new style and the cables are also. (pics of the cable did not come out clear)

post-60662-035749100 1283187188_thumb.jp

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

C

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M,

So I dug in deeper and I'm a bit discouraged. I found the inner fender on the passenger side sustained some damage causing the transmission to be out of alignment with the clamshell hinges. It's not real easy to see from the pics but the pushrod doesn't line up very well.

post-60662-019623200 1283187207_thumb.jp

post-60662-084184900 1283187225_thumb.jp

I also found the transmission cable on the drivers side had been sheared at the motor. Seems like a relatively easy replacement but I'm not sure why it sheared. (the inner cable had sheared directly at the point it meets the outer sheathing)

The motor works as do the transmissions but I'm not sure what to do about the damaged inner fender. I'm tempted to try to bend it as close to where it should be as possible.

Relay is the new style and the cables are also. (pics of the cable did not come out clear)

post-60662-035749100 1283187188_thumb.jp

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

C

CeeJay:

Don't get discouraged.... You ARE making some progress as you have now found a few areas that have to be rectified.

Get a new cable and install it.

As for the inner quarter panel support for the transmission being out of shape, it's unusual for any of the post '98 Boxsters to have that happen. The early Boxsters did not have any re-inforcement in that area, but I'm pretty sure that the 2000's did. Once the early supports get bent out of shape, it usually requires some re-inforcement plates to be welded in by a body shop.

In your case, you should be okay if you can bend it back as close to the original position as possible. Use the other side as a reference to see exactly as it should line up.

The damage may well have been caused by that ignorant advice on the part of the dealer when he recommended that you should just press down to force the clamshell into place.

As far as the cable, it may just have sheared due to age/use/lack of lubrication, etc... It's not a very expensive part to replace. Once you have it in there, test with the electric drill to make sure the V-lever turns in both directions, thereby confirming that the gears in the transmission are okay.

Don't give up. You have found some trouble spots and can rectify them, which means you can get it working again.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

You're right, it'll be that much more satisfying when the top is back in working order. The issues are not insurmountable, though I'm a bit nervous about trying to straighten out the inner fender. I wouldn't be as nervous if it were my car! :0)

Thanks for the help. I'm waiting for parts and I'll keep you posted.

C

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M,

Progress Report!

All went quite well this weekend. I was able to replace the broken clamshell lever and hinges and hooked up the v-lever on one side. Because I'm still waiting for a transmission cable I wasn't able to complete the job but all is looking good. I was able to straighten out the transmission on the side that had been damaged and while using my hand to guide the other side the clamshell opened and closed smoothly.

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the transmission cable because I believe with another hour or 2 of labor the top will be fully functional again. I'll let you know when it's complete but I'm very happy about what we were able to do on the weekend. I doubt I would've attempted the project without the excellent advice you've provided to date.

Thanks for all your help and I'll let you know when the job's complete.

C

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M,

Progress Report!

All went quite well this weekend. I was able to replace the broken clamshell lever and hinges and hooked up the v-lever on one side. Because I'm still waiting for a transmission cable I wasn't able to complete the job but all is looking good. I was able to straighten out the transmission on the side that had been damaged and while using my hand to guide the other side the clamshell opened and closed smoothly.

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the transmission cable because I believe with another hour or 2 of labor the top will be fully functional again. I'll let you know when it's complete but I'm very happy about what we were able to do on the weekend. I doubt I would've attempted the project without the excellent advice you've provided to date.

Thanks for all your help and I'll let you know when the job's complete.

C

C:

That's great news about straightening out the transmission on that side...I'm reasonably certain it will be back to 100% after you install the cable.

Sounds like rewarding labor on Labor Day weekend! beer.gif

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mostly good news,

The top and clamshell are functional again. They open and close smoothly with a few issues yet to be resolved.

1) The clamshell closes tight on the open top but the "Open Top" light never goes out and the motor doesn't shut off.

2) The latch on the front of the top doesn't seem to fit in the valley of the engine cover when left open. The top doesn't seat well at full open. We've been closing the latch prior to completion of the full open position. This works but I don't believe this is normally needed.

3) There is an electical connection hanging from the top that I'm not sure where it plugs in. I thought it was a window defroster connection but it doesn't match the connector for that.

post-60662-012249700 1284574033_thumb.jp

I'm thinking adjustment of the top will probably resolve problem #2. Could this also resolve problem #1?

I wasn't able to add any more photos. Apparently they are a larger file size than allowed. I'll adjust the camera and get a couple pics.

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Ceejay:

Certainly a lot better than what you started out with! clapping.gifclapping.gifclapping.gif

Are you sure that the electrical connector is hanging from the convertible top and is not actually originating from behind the half-cylindrical carpeted plastic panel that is under the B-Pillar (behind your left shoulder as you sit in the driver's seat)?

If the wire is actually coming from that location, it may be the B-Pillar microswitch connector. Check to see whether it has two thin wires going to the connector (under the plastic sheath), one gray and one blue. If it is those colors, it's definitely the lead from the B-Pillar microswitch and connecting it may solve the top light not going out and the electric motor not shutting off.

Could you take a photo of the top latch as it (does not) sit(s) in the valley of the engine compartment cover when the top is completely open?

Regards, Maurice.

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M,

The wires are definitely coming from the top. The top was not attached to the car and the wires were hanging from it when I re-installed it. If you look at the pics from my earlier posts - specifically the one with the top on my workbench - you can see the wires and what appears to be a switch of some sort at the knuckle of the top on the drivers side. Is this the B-Pillar microswitch you're referring to?

Thanks

C

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M,

The wires are definitely coming from the top. The top was not attached to the car and the wires were hanging from it when I re-installed it. If you look at the pics from my earlier posts - specifically the one with the top on my workbench - you can see the wires and what appears to be a switch of some sort at the knuckle of the top on the drivers side. Is this the B-Pillar microswitch you're referring to?

Thanks

C

Ceejay:

I looked at the photo from your earlier post of the top on the bench and you can clearly see the B-Pillar microswitch and the blue wire and the gray wire leading from it.

I have circled it in red in your photo, here:

post-6627-015527000 1284606480_thumb.jpg

The puzzle is that if you have the B-Version transmissions and relay, the B-Pillar microswitch is NOT used in that set-up, so the top must be from a 1997-99. Since yours is a model 2000, it shouldn't have the B-pillar microswitch attached to the top with the one small screw.

Also, since you stated in an earlier post that you do not have the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor, the B-pillar microswitch would be of no use.

Any idea if that top may have come from an earlier car?

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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