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mojo

ABS activation

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I have the Durametric tool and am trying to figure out how to activate the abs for bleeding/flushing the brake system. Could anyone give me some pointers?

Thanks

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You do realize that activating the ABS/ PSM system during a brake flush is not necessary? It is only required if you have gotten air into the system controls or pump during service to the system, otherwise the system is simply flushed like any other vehicle………

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Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

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Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

Thanks for the info. I just want to empty the system of the ATE blue and get some better brake fluid in, and be sure all of the blue is out. This raised another problem, namely the clutch slave cylinder. I can't even get to it to bleed it, not sure where it is. This is on a 2007 GT3 and I boiled the fluid on the last track day, hence need to get better stuff in there.

Thanks again.

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Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

Thanks for the info. I just want to empty the system of the ATE blue and get some better brake fluid in, and be sure all of the blue is out. This raised another problem, namely the clutch slave cylinder. I can't even get to it to bleed it, not sure where it is. This is on a 2007 GT3 and I boiled the fluid on the last track day, hence need to get better stuff in there.

Thanks again.

Are you planning to go back with something non-compatible with ATE Super Blue? If so, then you have a lot of work to do. Frankly, if it were me, I would stay with ATE Blue, do a conventional change (pump the brakes or power bleeder approach described in Loren's how to) and unless your clutch pedal is not returning, you don't need to mess with the clutch, or the ABS.

I know a lot of guys think the Castrol or the Motul stuff is better, and it anecdotally lasts longer, but if your track events are not every weekend, doing a quick bleed before a track date and using blue will do it for you. It is all I use - just do a quick bleed all the way around before every event.

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Considering the number of Rolex and Cup series cars that use ATE, I really have to wonder what the issue is here.................

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