Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

ABS activation


mojo

Recommended Posts

  • Moderators

You do realize that activating the ABS/PSM system during a brake flush is not necessary? It is only required if you have gotten air into the system controls or pump during service to the system, otherwise the system is simply flushed like any other vehicle………

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

Thanks for the info. I just want to empty the system of the ATE blue and get some better brake fluid in, and be sure all of the blue is out. This raised another problem, namely the clutch slave cylinder. I can't even get to it to bleed it, not sure where it is. This is on a 2007 GT3 and I boiled the fluid on the last track day, hence need to get better stuff in there.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good Q. Assume you are talking about the most recent version that includes that functionality.

I used it and thought it was not working as I did not hear anything nor did any fluid come out of the bleeder screws. I emailed with tech support asking if there were any reports of it not working, sharing my concerns and questions. I even sent a picture of the cable to be sure I had the right version - I did.

His answer -- you will not necessarily see fluid come out or hear anything, and that they have no reports of bugs. In other words, as far as they are concerned, it works.

Understand I am a Durametric fan, but I was not especially happy with the answer. I do not understand how you can activate the ABS pump without fluid escaping the bleeder screws.

I bleed my brakes frequently as my 986S is a race car, so I know/knew my fluid in the calipers was fine, yet still I was not happy with the pedal feel or how the brakes behaved when ABS was activated. As such, despite my doubt on Durametric, I went through the motions anyway - activating the pump with a bleeder screw open, one at a time, on each caliper. No noise, no fluid escape. I may be fooling myself, but it has felt better since then, so maybe it does work. I just don't know.

Would be interested if anyone else has had a different experience with the ABS activation function.

Thanks for the info. I just want to empty the system of the ATE blue and get some better brake fluid in, and be sure all of the blue is out. This raised another problem, namely the clutch slave cylinder. I can't even get to it to bleed it, not sure where it is. This is on a 2007 GT3 and I boiled the fluid on the last track day, hence need to get better stuff in there.

Thanks again.

Are you planning to go back with something non-compatible with ATE Super Blue? If so, then you have a lot of work to do. Frankly, if it were me, I would stay with ATE Blue, do a conventional change (pump the brakes or power bleeder approach described in Loren's how to) and unless your clutch pedal is not returning, you don't need to mess with the clutch, or the ABS.

I know a lot of guys think the Castrol or the Motul stuff is better, and it anecdotally lasts longer, but if your track events are not every weekend, doing a quick bleed before a track date and using blue will do it for you. It is all I use - just do a quick bleed all the way around before every event.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.