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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech If the engines was sourced from Porsche in 2016, it would have the oversized non serviceable IMS bearing.
  2. Connect a digital manometer in place of the oil fill cap and start the car; fully warm, you should see no more than 5 inches of water vacuum signal. Any higher than that, the AOS is toast.
  3. Used with appropriate care, it is possible, but considering the damage list from pressure washing that has come into the shop over the years (dented panels, lifted paint, blown out seals, flattened tires, damaged brakes, holed cabriolet tops, emblems blown off, ripped bumper covers, etc. etc.), I would still caution against its use. The problem with these devices always lies with the operator, who seem to believe that is one PSIG is good, and two is even better, then forth seven has got to be just right; and that is when all Hell breaks loose...……………....
  4. Welcome to RennTech A common problem with Porsche's is a bad ignition switch, which cause all sorts of electrical gremlins and failures.
  5. As with most things Porsche electrical, the connectors on the harness are the limiting factor. The control module should have come with the harness if purchased new, but people never pull them out of cars when parting out. Too much effort.
  6. Then set your speed limit alarm in your onboard computer.
  7. No restart, repair or replace...………….
  8. When you reversed polarity, you place every electronic system in the car at severe risk; they really don't take well to this. It is entirely possible you have fried the PCM1.
  9. Start by checking your cam deviation values, that will tell you how bad they are (the value limits are +/- 6 degrees). The ramps can be DIY, but they will require special tooling and an understanding of how the cam timing system works. It is also much easier an quicker with the engine out, but can be done with it in.
  10. Yikes! You should NOT be using a power washer on any car as they can generate enough power to blow the paint right off the car, as well as destroying any rubber seal it touches. BAD IDEA!
  11. If you are going to do that, replace the pump as well. These things are not long lived...……...
  12. The word you are looking for is "siphon". Glad you got it sorted.
  13. From the factory, the pump had a thin metal gasket. Bolt torque is 7 ft. lbs., so don't go nuts trying to over tighten them.
  14. This is a good example of understanding what a code is telling you. P0341 is for an implausible signal from the cam position sensor, and is most commonly a short or wiring problem rather than a bad position sensor. The diagnostic steps for this code are all wiring harness circuit tests looking at voltages and circuit resistances. Rarely is it caused by the sensor itself.
  15. What possessed you to replace the cam position sensor? Have you scanned the card for codes?
  16. You can always take a photo of the damage to a quality aluminum welding shop and see if they can patch it. Cheaper and easier than pulling the head off and replacing it. You would still need the cam holding fixtures in place before removing the cover, but it can be done.
  17. Welcome to RennTech You cannot change the cam cover. The cam cover and cylinder head cam bores are machined as a unit, then separated. If you were to substitute another cover, the cam bores will not line up with those on the cylinder head. You need to replace both.
  18. Couple of points: How in the Hell was the previous owner changing or adding oil? As you found out, the normal method does not work, so exactly how OLD was the oil in the engine? Yikes! I would not be surprised to find out the AOS is probably also dead, as most DIYer's never know that until they can't get the oil fill cap off due to high case vacuum levels, which is impossible with the fill tube cut and plugged.
  19. Welcome to RennTech Pull the oil filter and look at it, if it is full of metal, you have major problems.
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