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  • Moderators

First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings:

line_wrenches.jpg

These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment.

Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

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First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings:

line_wrenches.jpg

These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment.

Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

Thanks, i was told I would just need to remove the hard line only that goes into the caliper. Alsowas told by dealer tech that the abs pump would only need bleeding when replacing master cylinder. Do know what size wrench is used for the nut on hard line going into caliper?

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The hard lines do not go directly to the calipers, they go first to a flex line between the hard line and the caliper so the unit can move. The hard line/ flex line connections is seen about mid frame on the left of this photo:

brakes-BigReds-640.jpg

We regularly get cars flat bedded in because someone left the line open too long and got air back up into the system far enough to cause the system to go nuts. If you disconnect the hard line for any length of time, it needs to be capped or plugged.

Exactly what are you trying to do?

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First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings:

line_wrenches.jpg

These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment.

Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

Thanks, i was told I would just need to remove the hard line only that goes into the caliper. Alsowas told by dealer tech that the abs pump would only need bleeding when replacing master cylinder. Do know what size wrench is used for the nut on hard line going into caliper?

Thanks All , dealer tech said it 11mm

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The hard lines do not go directly to the calipers, they go first to a flex line between the hard line and the caliper so the unit can move. The hard line/ flex line connections is seen about mid frame on the left of this photo:

brakes-BigReds-640.jpg

We regularly get cars flat bedded in because someone left the line open too long and got air back up into the system far enough to cause the system to go nuts. If you disconnect the hard line for any length of time, it needs to be capped or plugged.

Exactly what are you trying to do?

Thanks JFP, so the hard line that is going into the caliper when it is removed can i hold it tight with hand and rag because i was told to just screw it directly into the new caliper. In understand that the flex line connect to an upper section hard line but im talking about quickly removing the one end of hard line that is connected to caliper itself and screwing onto new caliper. Thanks for all input !

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We are at "cross terms" here, the line going to the caliper is a "flex" line, the "hard" lines are attached the chassis. The caliper flex lines look like this:

RAP996405S.jpg

The hard line connection you can see if the photo I provided, and looks like this up close:

HardBrakeLineShort.jpg

On some cars, the flex line goes direct to the caliper, on others there is a short section of hard line at the caliper that is connected to a flex line that runs up to the main hard line. I have to assume that is what you are referring to....

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