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Check engine light - No Tach

gman3280

By gman3280
in 996 GT3

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gman3280 Member

gman3280

Posted
Posted

I have a 2004 996 GT3 with 63K miles. There are no modifications other than a cat back exhaust.

This morning the check engine light came on at start up. Everything seemed fine; however, the tach wasn't working and the high temp light and low gas light were on.

I have a generic OBDII code reader which I will use when I take the car home at lunch.

I'm guessing this isn't the first car to have this issue and was hoping someone could shed some light on this issue which seems pretty specific with the tach and lights on but this is my first check engine light in owning the car for a year now.

Thank you, Gary

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JFP in PA Member

JFP in PA

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Just ran my generic OBDII scanner and it wouldn't pull any codes. Wondering if that means its a Porsche specific code?

Good times...

Possibly, best to get it scanned on a Porsche specific system (PIWIS or Durametric).

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JFP in PA Member

JFP in PA

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The dash also indicates "Failure indicator" with a picture of an engine in front of it at start up.

Guess, I will be buying a Durametric today...

Either that or find a local Indy that has one.....................

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gman3280 Member

gman3280

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Took a guess on a voltage problem. The battery was only 12.2V so I had it charged and tested. The car seems fine now but I know the car didn't fix itself.

Are the alternators a common issue on these cars? I drove the car but the battery voltage is dropping ever so slightly each time.

What is the correct alternator part number for a 2004? I think it is 99760301206

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JFP in PA Member

JFP in PA

Posted
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Took a guess on a voltage problem. The battery was only 12.2V so I had it charged and tested. The car seems fine now but I know the car didn't fix itself.

Are the alternators a common issue on these cars? I drove the car but the battery voltage is dropping ever so slightly each time.

What is the correct alternator part number for a 2004? I think it is 99760301206

Quite often, the voltage regulator is the issue but fortunately can be changed out as a less than $50 DIY. Car should be showing around 14V at idle, much less than that is an indication that either the regulator or the alternator itself is on the way out. You can usually get the alternator tested for free at auto parts stores.

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