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oil level causing idle issues? Will not run


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first of all, whoever decided to go with an electronic-only dipstick is an *******. What a terrible idea...

Did an oil change on an '01 TT and seemed that maybe 4-5 quarts came out, so i added about 5.5 back in. During the restart when all was done, it sounded pretty low (ticked a lot) so i added 1.5 more quarts and it got better. i had to let it idle for quite a while to get it to temp to give me a reading, and the gauge showed max. now either i nailed the level or it has too much, thanks to it being electronic, i cant tell.

what I'm wondering is if too much oil will mess with any of the cam tensioning and cause a bad idle issue and misfire, because it definitely has massive problems holding an idle, but much more was done than just an oil change, I'm just narrowing it down to all options.

I also replaced the coolant tank, put in Forge DV's, sealed an oil leak at the cam tensioner case on the right hand bank (this is irrelevant), and put in a K&N panel filter after wiping excess oil off.

At first start, it fires up nicely and then when it drops in revs to idle, it dies. This happens about 4 times or so, and its about 40deg out. After it tries to hold idle, it misses extremely badly and the ecu tries to compensate and blasts the revs up, and after about 5 minutes of this, it will mostly hold an idle, when its starting to warm up. Any application of throttle beyond a baby's touch will choke the engine and cause it to stumble and usually die.

It had thrown a P0444 for the purge valve connector being loose, but after that was plugged back in, it didnt respond any better. I noticed that when i pulled the quick release from that hard line to the purge valve above the intake, there is no loss of vacuum, and i thought that was unusual. The car was low on gas, so i added 4 gallons to no avail.

I changed the maf with another known good one and no change.

All of the vacuum lines aside from the ones to the SAI have been replaced with silicone and each connection has a tight zip tie (previous project I did), and also the majority of the check valves are new.

Other thoughts i have are something with the new Forge valves (doubt it) so I'll put the stock ones in and try those, or maybe it was the large amount of coolant that dumped on the left hand bank during the tank removal and causing a coil issue, or maybe its an improperly seated metal gasket at the intake distributor during reassmebly, or its some sort of fuel tank purge or vacuum issue since that line doesnt have any stored pressure when the engine is cold or hot? The car ran great prior to this and I'm a little stumped.

I have the DV's out and the rubber union looks ok, so I'll pull the intake distributor off again and check for a problem with the gasket next.

Thoughts? 45k on the car, UMW flash, silicone boost hoses, and 78mm TB are also on the car. Newer fuel filter as well and 9k on the appropriate plugs.

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With a true dry sump system on the Metzger engine, finding a place to put a dipstick would have been a mechanical nightmare; the electronic level system was the correct move. That said, these cars do not like to be overfilled with oil; so I would suggest warming the car and draining off some oil until you have it at the correct level using the display.

As you have had parts of the intake system apart, I would have to say is sounds like something in the intake is leaking. It could be the new DV's, or simply a hose connection somewhere in the system is not seated or tight. If you don't have access to a smoke machine, it is going to have to be a process of elimination.

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no smoke machine, so i will pull the intake distributor section and inspect the gasket then move on to installing the old DV's. After that, I'l drain some oil and see if it likes that.

Any thoughts on the line to the purge valve having/storing no pressure? And if excess oil could have an affect on chain tensioning?

I'll keep this updated with findings.

Thanks :)

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Son of a *****... How in the world this came off, I don't think I'll ever know...

I pulled the intake distributor pipe off to inspect the seal (I had it in perfectly), and then starting chasing vacuum lines to see if any were cut or loose, and followed the one down to the driver's side turbo inlet pipe, and I felt it was loose at the connection. Weird. So I shove my head in there with my head lamp on and wouldn't you know it, the whole pipe was loose and even came off of the turbo.

WTF. I think I will call it case closed at this point... And be ordering stronger clamps and silicone couplers for the turbo inlets :-) I remember the rubber being a little dried up and hard anyway.

Unbelievable... It's always the simple things.

Time to reassemble and test the new DV's finally. See ya guys!

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Son of a *****... How in the world this came off, I don't think I'll ever know...

I pulled the intake distributor pipe off to inspect the seal (I had it in perfectly), and then starting chasing vacuum lines to see if any were cut or loose, and followed the one down to the driver's side turbo inlet pipe, and I felt it was loose at the connection. Weird. So I shove my head in there with my head lamp on and wouldn't you know it, the whole pipe was loose and even came off of the turbo.

WTF. I think I will call it case closed at this point... And be ordering stronger clamps and silicone couplers for the turbo inlets :-) I remember the rubber being a little dried up and hard anyway.

Unbelievable... It's always the simple things.

Time to reassemble and test the new DV's finally. See ya guys!

Glad you found it.

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