Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions.
I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions:
Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches?
All informed opinions are welcome.
My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes).
Bought a computer reader and found error codes
P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit
P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible
P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible
P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible
Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap)
Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer.
The computer shows to different values for MAF
Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level
Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle)
2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this)
Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0.
ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle)
Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary....
I've recently purchased this 2002 Boxster S and have been going thru it trying to tidy up all of the various loose ends left for me by the previous owner.
All my google-imaging has left me empty handed on what little gadget is under this black tape.
I KNOW I'm getting a vacuum leak from it......
By Andrew Ullmann
Hi. I am new to this group, and new to Porsche. I would like to buy a "summer runaround" car for fun to celebrate my "big" birthday.... I'm going to be 30 for the second time!
I have a budget of £5000, and there are quite a few good cars available, but I would like some advice, please:
I have found a 1998 R Boxster which has had lots of work done on it, with FSH.
I have found a 2001 "51" plate Boxster S, which also has lots of service history.
I have found a 1999 Boxster which has history also, but has a few more signs of age, but is over £1000 cheaper.
I am not a mechanic, and I don't know what to look for....
Some guidance would be appreciated.