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Pretty sure mine is hosed: had to really stretch it to fit a couple years ago and now the engine acts like it might have an intake leak (P0102, 1126, 1128, 1130, 1133, 1276). Changed all O2 sensors & MAF. No noticeable change. It has low power upon starting, won't increase RPMs, and backfires. After it warms up it's OK.

 

Couldn't figure out how to search this forum (newbie error)...

 

TX,

Steve

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Correct, you did not need to change the O2 sensors.

The MAF has little (almost nothing) to do with idle - it does most of it's work above 4000 RPM.

 

Since the O2 sensor and MAF change have you cleared the fault codes and re-run the tests?

You likely still have an intake air leak but you might need a smoke machine to expedite finding the location of the leak. 

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Cleared the codes but not sure of any tests. I do have a Durametric and have tried to diagnose real-time but hard to capture the event. Here's the scenario:

Start the engine - throttle won't increase RPMs; backfires occasionally; put in gear and gently engage clutch (otherwise it dies); roll/coast down long driveway; sit at end of driveway trying to coax RPMs up; once that happens a couple times (maybe 3K) head onto street where it will barely move for about the 1st 1/4 mile. Performance gradually picks up and becomes "normal" once up to temp (little above 180). All the time no CEL.

 

Drive for 1/2 hour or so or more on highway after 5 min of neighborhood streets and shut off. Leave for 10-15 minutes, get back on highway, CEL comes on after about 5 minutes, no typical situation (E.g. accel, decel). Same codes ( P0102, 1126, 1128, 1130, 1133, 1276 in various combinations but always with 0102).

 

I'm thinking that the too-tight hose is a known problem and should be fixed before proceeding. Have seen the smoke test somewhere before and it looks daunting (I've done the IMS bearing and both rear hub bearings so not a mechanical newbie).

 

Thanks, Loren!

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