2011 Cayenne Turbo issue with rear passenger doors

[BigWillSell]

Fellow Porsche owners I have an issue with my rear passenger doors not able to open with keyless entry?

Front doors are both fine but rear doors have to be opened from inside?

Any ideas as to whats the issue will be greatly appreciated.

 

Rgds
Will

[scanner-1]

I have had the same issue randomly occurring with my 2011 Turbo. Another related issue was the other rear door would not lock and my alarm confirmation tone would not chirp.

It seems to be more frequent in cold weather, so I suspect it may be a lubrication issue.

Not sure if it was luck or not, but I tried spraying WD40 Dry Lube PTFE into every nook and cranny I could find near a handle or lock, then put a charger on the battery and actuated the locks and door handles multiple (many, many) times.

Both issues have improved, but they're not 100%, so if anybody has a suggestion for an easily accessible spot on these locks to shoot some lubricant into, please chime in. Also taking  suggestions on what lube!

 

[av8sky]

Scanner 1 I have the same 2011 Cayenne turbo.  I have had to replace the rear door lock actuators on both sides.  You can take them apart and clean some contacts but it may only be temporary fix.  Bigwillsell I would hook a scan tool up to yours.  Does the button on the center console unlock the rear doors?

[BigWillSell]

Thanks Scanner, I was thinking the same myself but the car was located in Spain so the cold was never an issue, but I will drop the door cards off and get a better look into it.

I will let you know.

[scanner-1]

I was hoping to avoid pulling the door panels off--thought I read somewhere that it might be tricky with the powered window shades?

Av8sky, did you replace the actuators yourself and do you have the powered shades?

BTW, when mine does this, the scan tool typically reports:

000843 Central locking unit, implausible signal

[scanner-1]

So I just replaced THREE (yes 3) rear door lock actuators.

To recap:

Left rear door exterior handle would not open the door after unlocking with keyfob or by proximity.

Right rear door would not lock (and no confirmation beep).

Since it was a bigger security issue, I replaced the RR first and decided to experiment by buying the $37 actuator from Hong Kong as found on eBay. The door lock would now physically lock, but the alarm would not set. Occasionally, the exterior handle would not work either. I was unable to clear DTC 000843 Central locking closing unit, implausible signal.

Due to my experience with the $37 part, I decided to splurge for the $91 URO Parts actuator for the left side. This part worked perfectly and solved the problem.

I then went back to Rock Auto and bought the URO Parts right side actuator (why this one costs $17 more than the left side remains one of those mysteries).  The RR door is now working perfectly, all codes reset and alarm confirmation chirps occur when locking.

Lessons learned:

The screws that clamp the window regulator to the window glass are reverse threaded (at least as viewed from inside the car, the E-Torx end, size E-6). Pay attention to the torque specs here (4.5 ft-lb). If you shear this end off, you will kick yourself and likely spend the next week trying to figure out how to loosen that screw--ask me how I know.

Reassembling: in order to reinsert the automatic shade rod, you will have to lift the door panel to the exact level that automatically disengages the upper tweeter connector--a mere 1  inch more of tweeter wire would have made this job almost too easy. I suggest you test the stereo before putting all the trim back on, my diagnostic tool speaker test warned me (an embarrassing number of times) that I had accidentally disengaged that connector!

And yes, you will break at least one of these: 955 555 243 00.