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av8sky

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Everything posted by av8sky

  1. Update on this topic. I drove to work the other day with the CEL on and I noticed the boost gauge was showing .1 bar while at idle and would fluctuate sometimes to 0.0. I am wondering if I have a faulty sensor. The car ran well and idle was smooth and RPM's did not fluctuate. I only wished I had my scan tool with me to read values. My next plan is to drive the car with the scanner hooked up and monitor the values while someone else is driving.
  2. JFP thank you for your response. Excellent point I assumed it had never been flashed but that is just an assumption based on a guess. I will hook up my Autel and take a look at the pressures. What is the best way to tell if you have a tune?
  3. I have a 2011 Porsche Cayenne Turbo. I have owned the car 2.5 years and about 2 years ago I got this code and erased it and it did not come until recently. I did some research and assumed it was the Manifold absolute pressure sensor just prior to the Throttle body. The part was fairly inexpensive at $30 (0 261 230 042 Bosch) I decided that was probably it and installed the part. The light came back within a few miles of driving and if I clear the code it comes back right away although it is passive at first (does not trigger CEL). I also ordered the similar part by accident that attaches to the back of the manifold. It takes talent to order the wrong part even though you wrote the part number down. I decided since I had that part already to go ahead and install it and it made no difference. Does anybody have any experience with this one? The car is pretty much bone stock other than the Apple car play I installed on the PCM about 6 months ago. I have 120000 miles and I perform all maintenance and repairs on it. I have an Autel MaxiPro mp808 and it has pretty close to dealer level software and has the ability to read live data. My next plan is to trace the wire in the harness to look for any defects but I think this will require intake manifold removal. Anyhow I realize from reading these posts that we have some extremely intelligent guys and gals on this forum and I would appreciate any feedback or thing I should look at.
  4. Scanner 1 I have the same 2011 Cayenne turbo. I have had to replace the rear door lock actuators on both sides. You can take them apart and clean some contacts but it may only be temporary fix. Bigwillsell I would hook a scan tool up to yours. Does the button on the center console unlock the rear doors?
  5. My 2011 cayenne turbo had a similar problem with the pcm would reboot and after I replaced the battery it has not done it. I replaced the battery about 12 months ago. Never got Battery protection warning though.
  6. I do not think I fixed this issue but it is working for now. I made my first post after a lot of internet searches and brainstorming with the car. I started listening to some of the sounds the locks were making and then I decided to hit the the lock button many times very fast (I was trying to see if I could unstick something) and one of the doors unlocked and I remembered I shot some wd40 in that door's lock actuator mechanism. I sprayed the other side and locked and unlocked several times and it works at least right now. I am thinking that this might be a sign that both actuators will need replaced at some point but I hope not.
  7. 2011 Cayenne Turbo. Battery is approximately 1 year old. I have searched a bunch of similar threads but have not come across one that has a fix when both rear doors are not unlocking. The problem is that both rear door do not unlock via remote, pressing the unlock button in the car or from turning car off. The only way to unlock the door is by using the door handle inside. I thought that I may have had a bad actuator but it would be quite strange to have both doors quit working simultaneously. I also did a scan with my Icarsoft scan tool and came up with a code 000843 Central locking closing unit. Anybody else had this issue before? Any Ideas?
  8. I had a similar problem recently. I had to replace the alarm module. About $150 and it is located on the middle of the firewall. I am 6’1” and have long arms and I still found it a pain to reach it. Several tutorials on the internet. Follow the steps in exact order it will help (ask me how I know this). The part is used on several cars over the years and is readily available. Do not buy a used one. They are known to fail with age. I hope this helps.
  9. I am new to Cayenne ownership. The limited knowledge that I have of air strut system is that it needs to be filled with Nitrogen when you replace any component in the system. This filling process also requires the use of a PWIS computer. I think if you had a shop with a PWIS refill and calibrate the system you would get that great ride back. I hope that helps.
  10. 2003 996 cabriolet. I was putting my top up yesterday and I heard a strange noise as it was finishing putting up the windows. The sound was almost like a popping sound (not very loud). I went to open the door (drivers side) and the window did not drop. I tried the outside handle and the inside handle and no drop. The window goes up and down fine. I have done a search and read several great write ups on micro switches and regulators, I am still a little stumped on this one. Is it a micro switch issue or possibly an issue with the top controller. I did not have a chance to investigate or troubleshoot because I had to go on a work trip. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
  11. I had the same problem with my 03 996. I ended up buying the black box on ebay from a junkyard that specializes in Porsche parts. I was able to get the part that I needed and I was able to see how the box functioned to fix my blend door. The piece I needed was small and I could not find it for sale from Porsche.
  12. I have not seen a diy for it. The system is somewhat complex (ac unit) if you can figure out what flap is not fully closing or which actuator is bad you might be able to fix the problem (if that is the problem). 2 actuators are under the passenger footwell if you move the heat from full cold to full hot you will see the actuator move. The actuators have a plug and 3 or 4 screws and they look fairly simple to replace. I will take pictures of my used unit to show you what I am talking about. I picked one up a used ac unit on ebay for $75 so that I could possibly fix flap that is malfunctioning without removing my current unit.
  13. I would guess it is possibly the same problem. You might be lucky and it could just be one of the actuators that has gone bad. That is and easy fix. I have ordered a used ac unit to see if I can use parts from it to fix my problem. I will post an update with my findings.
  14. Unfortunately I am reviving this old thread. The problem is back and my ac blows warm once the car gets warmed up. My actuator seems to be working ok but the adjusting lever will not seat properly. The problem flap is the one for my feet, if I leave it off it seems to do better. The best way to fix this is to order a new ac unit $1300 and probably 10hrs of labor (wild guess) the dash needs to come out. My thought is to buy a used ac unit and use that one to figure out what a working one does and figure out if I can fix mine with the parts from the used unit. I read Logray's post about his drive motor malfunction and it looks like my problem is not as easy of a fix. My cost for a used unit would be around $100 to $300 dollars. Anybody have this problem or care to share what you would do in my situation. It is hot here in Texas and I like to supplement my top down driving pleasure with the AC.
  15. Thanks for all the replies. I am thinking the best solution would be to buy the white faces and send them along with my cluster to Palo Alto speedo shop and let them put them on and recalibrate everything. The mileage thing is definitely not something I want to mess with. Thanks again. Jim
  16. I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab. I would like to put white face gauges on it. Stickers do not appeal to me. Opening up the cluster to replace the faces sounds scary (if I go this route I will send it out to be done). I located a used cluster at a dismantler part number 996 641 984 93 it is out of an 02 turbo(6spd). My question is will it work in my car? Do I need PIWIS do reprogram it for my car or can I do this with my durametric? If you converted your car to white faces How did you do it? Did you have any problems? Looking for opinions and options. Thank you in advance. Jim
  17. Used engines are available for the MKII. My insurance company found one for me about 6months ago. I believe you can find them for the 8-10k range. The sources JFP listed in that link are really good. Oklahoma foreign and 20th street are really good sources. I have bought some things on ebay from a seller named qualityporscheparts. I think he was parting out an MKII and he might still have the engine. If you look hard enough you can always find your part.
  18. I was out for a drive yesterday enjoying an unseasonably warm and humid day here in Texas. I turned on my window defroster (by mistake) all of the sudden my nice cold AC was very hot. Even when I turned the air off it was throwing full heat at me. The first thing I did when I came home was look on Renntech. I saw a few things but nothing that said here is your problem, here is your fix. This is unusual because this site always has all the answers. I read my Bentley manual (great manual btw) It mentioned testing the temperature control flap motor. The Manual did not say how. The answer is Durametric or piwis is how you test. I also saw a post somewhere about somebody having a flap slip the shaft causing his ac not to work properly. Today I crawled under the dash to see if I could find this flap/flap motor. I found it and saw that spot where the actuator hooks up to the flap did not look right. I played around with it for a little while. Three pieces need to be removed and put back together so I could get the actuator to work properly. I turned the car and I have nice cold AC again. As I was buttoning it all back up it occurred to me I should have taken pictures. If what I did was just a temporary fix and I need to replace parts I will take pictures and list part numbers. I did not see any damage and it all went back together nicely. I think it was because the heat had not been used in quite a while that the flap was stuck and the actuator slipped. The car is a 2003 C2 cabriolet. I feel very fortunate that I have this site and it's members. You have all saved me lots of money. Thank You!!! :renntech:
  19. Can you really put a price on not injuring yourself trying to cut something that small? :D Thank you fpb111 for the pic. It is always easier to get what you want when you have a pic!
  20. Thank you Maurice. I was trying to avoid removing the door panel to diagnose the problem. This is also a good excuse to buy a durametric since the airbag light will illuminate when I operate the the window without the airbag in place. I read that bike brake adjuster fix and it was pure genius. I am curious if a previous owner may have adjusted the window so it wouldn't hit. I will post when I have it fixed. It is primetime top down Porsche driving weather here in Texas so I am going to wait for a cold or rainy day to fix it.
  21. I know this topic has been discussed and I have read the different posts and Richard Hamiliton's excellent DIY explaining all the different microswitches. I believe my problem is that I need a new door lock assembly pn 381-837-016p. I am going to give all the facts in bullet points because I am a horrible writer. Please share your opinion as to what you think might be wrong. I think it is the up/down microswitch not working properly that is talked about in the microswitch DIY. Thank you in advance for your help. - 2003 996 C2 cabriolet 52K miles I bought it almost 2 years ago - Passenger side window does not droop when door opens it makes a noise and comes down a 1-2 mm if at all. It makes the noise like the motor is trying to drop the window. - The window leaks sometimes and my seat leather is damaged and was already damaged when I bought it. - The window appears to be lower than it should be like it never goes up all the way. I compared the Sekurit label on each window and passenger side is definitely lower by a 1/4". I can't say that comparing the 2 that way is accurate. - I can't push the window up or down anymore (I don't think that it is the regulator because of this) - The puzzling part is the glass does not hit the Cabriolet frame. It comes close but it misses. - I tried recalibrating the windows and that did nothing.
  22. This is the thread lots of good stuff about the problem you are having. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43151-convertible-top-question/. If you do it yourself feel free to PM if you have any questions. I was fortunate enough to have a local top installer give me a lot of advice and tips on how to do the job and for the most part it went smoothly.
  23. A cable runs inside that the round part of the edge of the top (I am sure it has a technical name for it). My car was doing the exact same thing earlier this year and I ordered a new cable. After I took it all apart It was simply the rivet that connects the cable to the frame. The rivet had sheared so I replaced the rivet works perfectly now. Try doing a google search of the site and you can find several posts about the fix. I will try and post if I can find it.
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