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Everything posted by av8sky

  1. I had a similar problem recently. I had to replace the alarm module. About $150 and it is located on the middle of the firewall. I am 6’1” and have long arms and I still found it a pain to reach it. Several tutorials on the internet. Follow the steps in exact order it will help (ask me how I know this). The part is used on several cars over the years and is readily available. Do not buy a used one. They are known to fail with age. I hope this helps.
  2. I am new to Cayenne ownership. The limited knowledge that I have of air strut system is that it needs to be filled with Nitrogen when you replace any component in the system. This filling process also requires the use of a PWIS computer. I think if you had a shop with a PWIS refill and calibrate the system you would get that great ride back. I hope that helps.
  3. 2003 996 cabriolet. I was putting my top up yesterday and I heard a strange noise as it was finishing putting up the windows. The sound was almost like a popping sound (not very loud). I went to open the door (drivers side) and the window did not drop. I tried the outside handle and the inside handle and no drop. The window goes up and down fine. I have done a search and read several great write ups on micro switches and regulators, I am still a little stumped on this one. Is it a micro switch issue or possibly an issue with the top controller. I did not have a chance to investigate or troubleshoot because I had to go on a work trip. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
  4. I had the same problem with my 03 996. I ended up buying the black box on ebay from a junkyard that specializes in Porsche parts. I was able to get the part that I needed and I was able to see how the box functioned to fix my blend door. The piece I needed was small and I could not find it for sale from Porsche.
  5. I have not seen a diy for it. The system is somewhat complex (ac unit) if you can figure out what flap is not fully closing or which actuator is bad you might be able to fix the problem (if that is the problem). 2 actuators are under the passenger footwell if you move the heat from full cold to full hot you will see the actuator move. The actuators have a plug and 3 or 4 screws and they look fairly simple to replace. I will take pictures of my used unit to show you what I am talking about. I picked one up a used ac unit on ebay for $75 so that I could possibly fix flap that is malfunctioning without removing my current unit.
  6. I would guess it is possibly the same problem. You might be lucky and it could just be one of the actuators that has gone bad. That is and easy fix. I have ordered a used ac unit to see if I can use parts from it to fix my problem. I will post an update with my findings.
  7. Unfortunately I am reviving this old thread. The problem is back and my ac blows warm once the car gets warmed up. My actuator seems to be working ok but the adjusting lever will not seat properly. The problem flap is the one for my feet, if I leave it off it seems to do better. The best way to fix this is to order a new ac unit $1300 and probably 10hrs of labor (wild guess) the dash needs to come out. My thought is to buy a used ac unit and use that one to figure out what a working one does and figure out if I can fix mine with the parts from the used unit. I read Logray's post about his drive motor malfunction and it looks like my problem is not as easy of a fix. My cost for a used unit would be around $100 to $300 dollars. Anybody have this problem or care to share what you would do in my situation. It is hot here in Texas and I like to supplement my top down driving pleasure with the AC.
  8. Thanks for all the replies. I am thinking the best solution would be to buy the white faces and send them along with my cluster to Palo Alto speedo shop and let them put them on and recalibrate everything. The mileage thing is definitely not something I want to mess with. Thanks again. Jim
  9. I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab. I would like to put white face gauges on it. Stickers do not appeal to me. Opening up the cluster to replace the faces sounds scary (if I go this route I will send it out to be done). I located a used cluster at a dismantler part number 996 641 984 93 it is out of an 02 turbo(6spd). My question is will it work in my car? Do I need PIWIS do reprogram it for my car or can I do this with my durametric? If you converted your car to white faces How did you do it? Did you have any problems? Looking for opinions and options. Thank you in advance. Jim
  10. Used engines are available for the MKII. My insurance company found one for me about 6months ago. I believe you can find them for the 8-10k range. The sources JFP listed in that link are really good. Oklahoma foreign and 20th street are really good sources. I have bought some things on ebay from a seller named qualityporscheparts. I think he was parting out an MKII and he might still have the engine. If you look hard enough you can always find your part.
  11. I was out for a drive yesterday enjoying an unseasonably warm and humid day here in Texas. I turned on my window defroster (by mistake) all of the sudden my nice cold AC was very hot. Even when I turned the air off it was throwing full heat at me. The first thing I did when I came home was look on Renntech. I saw a few things but nothing that said here is your problem, here is your fix. This is unusual because this site always has all the answers. I read my Bentley manual (great manual btw) It mentioned testing the temperature control flap motor. The Manual did not say how. The answer is Durametric or piwis is how you test. I also saw a post somewhere about somebody having a flap slip the shaft causing his ac not to work properly. Today I crawled under the dash to see if I could find this flap/flap motor. I found it and saw that spot where the actuator hooks up to the flap did not look right. I played around with it for a little while. Three pieces need to be removed and put back together so I could get the actuator to work properly. I turned the car and I have nice cold AC again. As I was buttoning it all back up it occurred to me I should have taken pictures. If what I did was just a temporary fix and I need to replace parts I will take pictures and list part numbers. I did not see any damage and it all went back together nicely. I think it was because the heat had not been used in quite a while that the flap was stuck and the actuator slipped. The car is a 2003 C2 cabriolet. I feel very fortunate that I have this site and it's members. You have all saved me lots of money. Thank You!!! :renntech:
  12. Can you really put a price on not injuring yourself trying to cut something that small? :D Thank you fpb111 for the pic. It is always easier to get what you want when you have a pic!
  13. Thank you Maurice. I was trying to avoid removing the door panel to diagnose the problem. This is also a good excuse to buy a durametric since the airbag light will illuminate when I operate the the window without the airbag in place. I read that bike brake adjuster fix and it was pure genius. I am curious if a previous owner may have adjusted the window so it wouldn't hit. I will post when I have it fixed. It is primetime top down Porsche driving weather here in Texas so I am going to wait for a cold or rainy day to fix it.
  14. I know this topic has been discussed and I have read the different posts and Richard Hamiliton's excellent DIY explaining all the different microswitches. I believe my problem is that I need a new door lock assembly pn 381-837-016p. I am going to give all the facts in bullet points because I am a horrible writer. Please share your opinion as to what you think might be wrong. I think it is the up/down microswitch not working properly that is talked about in the microswitch DIY. Thank you in advance for your help. - 2003 996 C2 cabriolet 52K miles I bought it almost 2 years ago - Passenger side window does not droop when door opens it makes a noise and comes down a 1-2 mm if at all. It makes the noise like the motor is trying to drop the window. - The window leaks sometimes and my seat leather is damaged and was already damaged when I bought it. - The window appears to be lower than it should be like it never goes up all the way. I compared the Sekurit label on each window and passenger side is definitely lower by a 1/4". I can't say that comparing the 2 that way is accurate. - I can't push the window up or down anymore (I don't think that it is the regulator because of this) - The puzzling part is the glass does not hit the Cabriolet frame. It comes close but it misses. - I tried recalibrating the windows and that did nothing.
  15. This is the thread lots of good stuff about the problem you are having. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/43151-convertible-top-question/. If you do it yourself feel free to PM if you have any questions. I was fortunate enough to have a local top installer give me a lot of advice and tips on how to do the job and for the most part it went smoothly.
  16. A cable runs inside that the round part of the edge of the top (I am sure it has a technical name for it). My car was doing the exact same thing earlier this year and I ordered a new cable. After I took it all apart It was simply the rivet that connects the cable to the frame. The rivet had sheared so I replaced the rivet works perfectly now. Try doing a google search of the site and you can find several posts about the fix. I will try and post if I can find it.
  17. I like to use a leaf blower or compressed air to get the water out of the cracks and to dry the wheels and tires. A top installer also taught me that compressed air is also good to help clean the top (don't use a lot of psi) just to gently remove dust and dirt on the convertible top.
  18. That was what I thought it was for also. The funny thing is mine was in such bad shape that it was making dust and dirt and made my air filter dirty.
  19. I noticed the same thing on my 03. I replaced the foam with some foam from a hobby shop and cut it out with scissors. You could also order a brand new air cleaner assembly (with a filter) for under a $100. I was shocked that a replacement cost that little but that is what my local dealer told me when I called trying to buy that foam that was falling apart and making the air filter dirty. I hope that helps.
  20. I agree with you JFP on replacement of the part. The jacking point I was referring to is not on the oil pump housing but on the engine block itself. My indy mechanic told me Porsche makes a jack that fits the spot when lowering the engine out of the car or maybe it is used at the factory during assembly. It is still intact on bBunny's picture. It was that part breaking off and then wedging itself between my driveway apron and the pump housing that did the damage. I also agree jacking the car up on that oil pump housing would be crazy. Is this repair even possible without engine removal?
  21. I know this thread is kind of old but my 03 996 scraped going out the driveway the other day. The damage is identical. In my case the spot people used for jacking the car on the engine case sheared off and (I think) wedged itself between the oil pump housing and the driveway. The housing is now dented and cracked and leaking coolant. I believe that the engine may have to come out for this fix and I am talking to my insurance as I believe this will be an expensive repair. bBunny did you ever get this fixed and is the JB weld holding? My mechanic mentioned Heli arching (I have no idea how to spell this) the housing. I think a replacement would be much better for such a labor intensive job. Any opinions? Anyone else ever have this happen?
  22. I called Gbox recently and spoke with them and he was very nice and explained a few different questions I had. I asked about the cost of a rebuild and he explained until it was torn down the price of the rebuild would vary. He did mention that a factory reman from them was something like $3800 if I remember correctly. The reman may have a few advantages over a rebuild and you might be able to find a deal on one somewhere else. The reman could be bought and at the shop and you would have less down time. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
  23. To go along with what Dharn55 was saying about getting to know your local Porsche dealer (great advice). I live in Dallas and we have 3 Porsche dealers and I was told by a mechanic and fellow PCA member which one is the best to buy from. Boardwalk Porsche near where I live gives a 10% discount to PCA members and they have the best pricing in my area.
  24. I normally use sunset they are usually the cheapest depending on the size of the part because you pay the shipping. I did stop in at Rector Porsche near SFO airport once and they seemed to have reasonable prices. I was only looking for a small plastic piece at Rector they were out of stock but said the part was only 80 cents. I went to the Porsche dealership in Dallas and that same piece of plastic was $2.40. I have also looked at DC automotive and they seem to have decent prices as well they have new and used parts there I believe. I hope that helps. I am interested to see what everyone else has to say.
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