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So I'm still in the process of replacing my chain guides for the cams on my 2000 2.7 Boxster.  My original problem started with high cam deviation on bank 1.  It was around 21 deg on bank 1 and about 4 deg on bank 2 prior to any work done.  Now after replacing the guides (and they were very worn out) I'm having issues with the other side with bank 2.  I have gone back in and double checked my cam alignment making sure the chain is lined up with the markings on the cams.  The car is running rough.  Here is what Durametric shows.

The deviation on bank one is -3 deg and 21 deg on bank 2.  Any thoughts???

 

 

Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 7.2  
 

Module Identification

info.jpg
 
   
 
        
Part Number      986.618.620.08
Supplier Part Number      041.570.264.50
   
  Current Fault Codes
red.jpg
   
redsmall.jpg P1324
Porsche fault code 325 - Camshaft position with respect to crankshaft bank 2 below limit value
 
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So I’m still trying to figure out why I have 23 degrees cam shaft deviation on bank 2. Could this be that my solenoid for the variable cam system gone bad?  Does this car need to be driven so the car can reset itself?  With the Durametric software I see I can activate the solenoid. How’s this work. Does the car need to be shut off?  Did I mess something up with the installation of the cams? I had the motor TDC on bank 1 and installed the cams and then I rotated the crank 360 and installed the bank 2 cams (that’s how it done right?). I noticed the chain pulley bolts to the ISM are almost exactly where they were so I thought I must have installed everything back as they should be. I need help😟

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If your VarioCam system was not functional, the car should code indicating that.  With the Durametric system, you can activate the solenoids one at a time while it is running and see the cam position change in real time, plus the car should stumble a bit if you do this while the car is at idle.  Unfortunately, due to the size of the cam deviation on bank 2, my guess would be it is probably out of position due to the recent installation.

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Problem solved!! Hallelujah!  So here’s a brief overview of what happened. As I was undergoing this adventure of replacing the cam chain guides my original problem was 21 deg deviation on bank one. I set out to replace the guides. Both sides had badly worn pads. The car has 160k miles. Bank one went fairly straightforward. When I got to bank two one of the pads was completely gone and the chain wore through the metal boot that holds the guide in place. I ordered a used assembly from eBay and when I transferred the solenoid over to the new hardware I missed a tiny spring under the plunger. The assembly could not do its job without the tiny spring. There’s a guy on YouTube called Man in a Garage that covers how the thing works. My cam deviation is now 3 and 2 respectively!! Mission accomplished and saved $8k for a shop to do it!  Thanks for everyone’s input and help Renntech!!

I attached a photo below of the worn out assembly. 

381F0501-1EBF-4952-AABF-13E2DAD73F16.jpeg

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p1128 p1130 p1119 came up today.  What are the most likely causes of this?  This happened right when I started the car up today.  I had driven the car for about 100 miles after resolving the VarioCam issues and had no CEL during that time.  The car runs smoothly.  Should I clear the codes and see if this was a fluke?  Is there something my Durametric can tell me?  

 

Scott

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P1128 and 1130 indicate an overly lean mixture condition on both banks; typically, the result of an intake air leak or MAF sensor.  Your Durametric should be able to see both the air/fuel numbers as well as the MAF values to confirm.

 

P1119 is the code for a low heating current on the O2 sensor ahead of the main cat on bank #2.  Common faults are harness issues with the heater circuit.

 

I would consider clearing the codes and seeing what, if anything, returns.

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Quick question. I read the AOS can give the CEL mentioned above. I pulled the oil cap while the car was running I can tell there is a vacuum pulling at the cap. Not huge vacuum like where the cap is difficult to twist and remove but definitely a vacuum. I’m not sure what’s considered normal. Should there be no vacuum at all or is this normal? 

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MAF values at idle should be 12-24 Kg/h, so yours is low, possible indication of an intake leak after the MAF.

 

O2 sensor on bank #2 look somewhat normal, the sensor after the main cat should be a fairly straight line while the sensor ahead of the cat should be cycling in a sine wave fashion.  Bank #1 however is problematic as the sensors are following each other, which says there is an issue on that bank.

 

Suggest you run A/F data on both banks, what Durametric calls (correctly in Porsche speak) "adaption ranges".

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Assuming your readings were taken at idle, engine warm,

 

Range explanations:

                                  TRA idle for cylinders 1-3

                                   TRA2 idle for cylinders 4-6

Adaptation range thresholds:

 

Rich threshold:  TRA 0.37

                            FRA 1.25

Lean Threshold: TRA -0.37

                             FRA 0.75

 

RKAT 1 & 2 is the low speed/idle speed adaptation on each bank, or fuel air ratio adjustment the DME is making by adding or subtracting extra fuel. 0% is in this case is a good value, no extra fuel is being added and no fuel is being subtracted.  Yours is reading +4.5, indicating that the DME is dumping in fuel to both banks to make up for an excess of air, due to a leak in the intake system after the MAF.

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Where did you get a vacuum gauge that reads in inches of water?  Most read in inches of mercury (Hg), so 1 inch of Hg is equal to 13.6 inches of water.

 

Yes, it could be the AOS, but be sure you are measuring the vacuum levels correctly.

 

This is what we use to test the vacuum levels:

 

spacer.png

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Then your AOS is probably toast, but it would still be worthwhile to get the correct tool and test it.  Word of caution: DO NOT BUY AN AFTERMARKET AOS; we have seen many fail right out of the box, or worse yet, shortly after being installed.  Factory part ONLY.

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I have a question about passing emissions. I replaced my AOS yesterday and have not had any CEL or any codes pop up. Today I hooked up my Durametric and checked the ready status. Below is what it showed. Does this mean it’s not ready to pass emissions? Do I need to drive the car more until everything says Pass before I go get tested? 

2597DFE8-C4E2-4433-94A9-DE1F45A42C85.jpeg

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The IM Readiness sensors have not yet reset in the DME, and yes, you will probably fail emissions until they do reset.  You need to put some miles on the car to get everything to reset after repairs and code clearing, that is a trap the EPA built into the OBD II system to prevent people from clearing codes just before going for the emissions test.

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