Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Original B&M vs. Ruf Style Shifter


Recommended Posts

I believe I read somewhere that the Ruf style reduces throw by 40%+. I think I also read that Porsche recommends a maxmum reduction of 33% (evidenced by GT3 throw) which is what the orginal B&M is. This is what swayed me towards the B&M. Can anyone confirm this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Never seen this recommendation published by Porsche for any current model car.

As I have posted on other boards, the difference in the length of throws between the different models is, I believe, do to the transmission itself and not something in the shift linkage assembly.

As far as I can tell from the pictures of the B&M, Ruf, and TechArt transmission units they are identical except for the color. They all have 3 adjustment settings. Local 2002 996 owner Paul bought the B&M unit that attaches to the transmission, and we will be putting it in his car. Since I have put in many B&M shift lever units it will be interesting to see the difference with the new B&M transmission unit. Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

In the instructions they do not remove the cables from the black and blue shift cable connectors that are spring loaded, like on the B&M instructions. Instead, they disconnect the connectors from the metal shift lever and the white plastic reverse lock out.

No need to mark the location of the shift cables in the connectors the way they do it.

It is just another way to skin a cat. No special tool is mentioned as the shift cables are not removed from their connectors. I would like to see what would happen if the shift cables need to be replaced if the Porsche short shift has been installed. Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

The blue cable connector does not have a ball joint like the black one. The instructions say to remove the protective cover and pull off the blue connector.

What I like is the part about using a chisel to break the plastic tabs of the white bushings. That is the way I have been doing it since it is much faster than trying to cut them out with a utility knife like the B&M instructions say to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This begs the question as to who the actual supplier is for all these shifters? I once heard on Rennlist that they were made in Germany by Eibach. The pic looks like they left some blue on it ;) .

As an aside Jeff, how does Porsche recommend adjusting the ss?

FWIW I had mine out to the track last weekend with the B&M and it worked pretty well, no isues at al, I guess I finally got the adjustment right. (Recall I was hitting the gate on occasional hard shifts during hot run sessions at the track).

:cheers:

Edited by dj996
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

The only adjustment mentioned is the set screw with the locking nut. We adjust the set screw on the bench and then put the shift tower back in the car. Porsche says to put the shift tower back in the car and then adjust the set screw so that the shift lever springs to neutral. Same thing, just a different way to do it.

No mention is made of adjusting the shift cables. No need to do so since they are not removed from the shift cable connectors. Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.