Clutch

[Jorge332655]

Ok its time for a new Clutch I need some advice.. I have a 2000 cab 911 C2 I need a new clutch and am looking for some advice. Im planning on going the supercharger route in about 7-8 months or so.. Given that i have to change the clutch what should i put on now so that i dont have to go though this when i put the added HP.. Also how much does it cost parts and labor to have a clutch done? Just curious so when i shop around i have an idea. Thanks.. PS How much do you guys rev the car off a light before you dump the clutch to get a good launch? I get no wheel spin at all I have Iforged 19s with 295 30 19s I think dumping the clutch at 4500 rpms contibuted to its shot life :)

[1999Porsche911]

Ok its time for a new Clutch I need some advice.. I have a 2000 cab 911 C2 I need a new clutch and am looking for some advice. Im planning on going the supercharger route in about 7-8 months or so.. Given that i have to change the clutch what should i put on now so that i dont have to go though this when i put the added HP.. Also how much does it cost parts and labor to have a clutch done? Just curious so when i shop around i have an idea. Thanks.. PS How much do you guys rev the car off a light before you dump the clutch to get a good launch? I get no wheel spin at all I have Iforged 19s with 295 30 19s I think dumping the clutch at 4500 rpms contibuted to its shot life :)

If you are going to go with the standard EVO SC, the stock clutch kit will be enough. Stage 2 Sacks is a great improvement but it will change the engagement feel of the clutch. It will take you a while to get used to it. But will take more abuse.

No matter what clutch you put in, you MUST make sure that the newest design clutch actuator lever (fork) is installed if it has not already been done. 1999 and early 2000 cars had a problem with this lever and a TSB exists for it. The TSB is to eliminate noise, but the old fork also effects the engagement of the clutch negatively. Most dealer WILL NOT automatically replace this $40 part unless asked to.

Stock clutch install at dealer should be less than $1500.

Edited January 5, 2006 by 1999Porsche911

[GaryFB]

Ok its time for a new Clutch I need some advice.. I have a 2000 cab 911 C2 I need a new clutch and am looking for some advice. Im planning on going the supercharger route in about 7-8 months or so.. Given that i have to change the clutch what should i put on now so that i dont have to go though this when i put the added HP.. Also how much does it cost parts and labor to have a clutch done? Just curious so when i shop around i have an idea. Thanks.. PS How much do you guys rev the car off a light before you dump the clutch to get a good launch? I get no wheel spin at all I have Iforged 19s with 295 30 19s I think dumping the clutch at 4500 rpms contibuted to its shot life :)

Hi Jorge; do you think wheel spin improves forward acceleration? Yes, engaging the clutch when the engine is reving at 4500 rpm increased clutch wear substantially.

[LVDell]

While it should be less than $1500 it won't be unless you have a VERY good relationship with your SA or you go to an indy. I just went through this and I can tell you book time is 10 hours on the clutch job and the parts are not cheap either. The clutch kit is nearly $600 list price plus you need to replace a few misc parts while in there (seals, bolts, etc.). The dealer will charge in the $2-2.5K range. I just had mine done at my local indy. My total bill was a bit more ($2500) but I also needed a new dual mass flywheel (OUCH!) and I had them do the plugs and poly belt as well since it was time for my 60K service. Had all I needed was the clutch they were going to charge me $1300 (850 labor and 450 parts). The flywheel was **** near $1K!!!!!! Let's just say I am so happy my Christmas gift was a new clutch (detect sarcasm).

[1999Porsche911]

While it should be less than $1500 it won't be unless you have a VERY good relationship with your SA or you go to an indy. I just went through this and I can tell you book time is 10 hours on the clutch job and the parts are not cheap either. The clutch kit is nearly $600 list price plus you need to replace a few misc parts while in there (seals, bolts, etc.). The dealer will charge in the $2-2.5K range. I just had mine done at my local indy. My total bill was a bit more ($2500) but I also needed a new dual mass flywheel (OUCH!) and I had them do the plugs and poly belt as well since it was time for my 60K service. Had all I needed was the clutch they were going to charge me $1300 (850 labor and 450 parts). The flywheel was **** near $1K!!!!!! Let's just say I am so happy my Christmas gift was a new clutch (detect sarcasm).

Dell: Here in Chicagoland, 2 different dealers charge 5 hours for clutch replacement. One told me 9 hours. So you have to pressure the dealer to keep them honest. Porsche's tech manual states 5 hours.

[LVDell]

I be interested to see the tech manual that states book time on the clutch is only 5 hours.

[Jorge332655]

So i should be ok with the stock cluch running 400 HP? Im new to these cars and maybe the clutch was already a little worn when i got it but when powershifting at 7000 rmp the clutch would slip quite a bit and im running about 300 hp now. BTW the car doesnt really spin the tires a whole lot even when launched those 19s and the 295s hook up really well.

Edited January 6, 2006 by Jorge332655

[1999Porsche911]

So i should be ok with the stock cluch running 400 HP? Im new to these cars and maybe the clutch was already a little worn when i got it but when powershifting at 7000 rmp the clutch would slip quite a bit and im running about 300 hp now. BTW the car doesnt really spin the tires a whole lot even when launched those 19s and the 295s hook up really well.

When your clutch slips when shifting at high revs into another gear, does it finally grab after a few seconds?

[Jorge332655]

I will finally grip dosnt slip to much but im also stock right now. And if it slips a little less im assuming i would go a little quicker.. I noticed yours is supercharged is it a huge difference? I love the car im just use to having a little more torque the car does fine in the express way.

[1999Porsche911]

I will finally grip dosnt slip to much but im also stock right now. And if it slips a little less im assuming i would go a little quicker.. I noticed yours is supercharged is it a huge difference? I love the car im just use to having a little more torque the car does fine in the express way.

Jorge:

If your clutch slips, but eventually grabs again at a constant high rev upshift, one of the causes may be the a binding clutch fork that I mentioned above. As your clutch wears, this fork's angle on the shaft increases and the old style fork can cock and bind slightly, especially when shifting quickly. This does not allow for the fingers on the pressure plate to release fully, allowing the clutch disc to slip for a few seconds until the fork pops back into it's correct position. This is normally accompanied by noise coming from the bell housin when the clutch pedal is depressed and released. You won't experience a problem when driving normally.

So, like I said above, make sure they install the newest designed fork (acctuator lever) when they put in the clutch kit. I would ask for all old parts back.

The stock clutch has pletty of grip with the stock EVO setup and I drove mine for 20,000+ miles without a problem. The EVO system provides substantial power increase while maintaing the power curve of a stock 996. If you want to improve your torque a little more, consider getting rid of the 19 inch wheels and going back to 18 inch.

Jim

[Hroussard]

Food for thought ! I like a clutch in a car. It makes you work and lets you enjoy the results of a nice up or down shift. Something like having this " down to an art form ". As such I always double clutch on the way down with the customary rev blip between the two actions, depress the clutch pedal totaly before engaging , never riding the clutch. Ohh and BTW how many of you hold the car with the hand brake while say waiting for a red light to turn green then releasing the handbrake while releasing the clutch, preventing the car from rolling (backward or forward) WITH THE HANDBRAKE and smoothly accelerating... Sounds all llike SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) but many people just don't do that. Note ... this is part of the driving curriculum in the UK I believe so for the folks over there it should be deja vu.

As a result of that I seem not to wear out my clutch. Using the handbrake properly in conjunction with the brake and clutch will reduce the wear and tear on your clutch immensely and increase your driving pleasure and improve your driving skills in the process..

Cheers

[Jorge332655]

Do the 19s make that much of a difference. Usually 19s are 30 series so the ride is effected but I dont think the hight changes to much since its a lower profile tire. Does it?

[1999Porsche911]

Do the 19s make that much of a difference. Usually 19s are 30 series so the ride is effected but I dont think the hight changes to much since its a lower profile tire. Does it?

You tires are a little more than 3/4 inch bigger in diameter than the stock 18 inch one.

[Jorge332655]

If I have to change the Fly Wheel. What are the pros and Cons of going with an aluminum Fly Wheel?

[1999Porsche911]

If I have to change the Fly Wheel. What are the pros and Cons of going with an aluminum Fly Wheel?

Noise, noise and more noise. You engine will rev up faster and also rev down faster. Not for a daily driver IMO.

[Rom]

Food for thought ! I like a clutch in a car. It makes you work and lets you enjoy the results of a nice up or down shift. Something like having this " down to an art form ". As such I always double clutch on the way down with the customary rev blip between the two actions, depress the clutch pedal totaly before engaging , never riding the clutch. Ohh and BTW how many of you hold the car with the hand brake while say waiting for a red light to turn green then releasing the handbrake while releasing the clutch, preventing the car from rolling (backward or forward) WITH THE HANDBRAKE and smoothly accelerating... Sounds all llike SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) but many people just don't do that. Note ... this is part of the driving curriculum in the UK I believe so for the folks over there it should be deja vu.

As a result of that I seem not to wear out my clutch. Using the handbrake properly in conjunction with the brake and clutch will reduce the wear and tear on your clutch immensely and increase your driving pleasure and improve your driving skills in the process..

Cheers

That's what I do too and it's definately better for the clutch - I'm from the UK originally so that's where I learned... Took my driving test here and was amazed that the test was so easy - nothing about smooth driving or reducing wear on the car...

Hroussard - are you from the UK too? I don't live too far from you if you're in Foster City!

Thanks!

S.

[Hroussard]

I am one of the aggressive ( compared with passive or defensive or is it defenseless ??)drivers from the European continent but I lived in the UK for 10+ years so I am very familiar with the driving skills and requirements there. Yes , I live in Foster City.

HarryR