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Hi,

My ’99 C2 (62,000M) has the P1124 code constantly for 6 months, I bring the car to the dealer this weekend. They told me it was bad Oil Separator which will cost me $2,100 to replace it.

My question is can it be DIY? how hard it is ? where it locate?

Also they mentioned the card has a little overheat on left-side of engine cyn1-3, it was a bad cool barrel, what’s that? They quote me $850 for fix it.

Any input will much appreciate.

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Hi,

My ’99 C2 (62,000M) has the P1124 code constantly for 6 months, I bring the car to the dealer this weekend. They told me it was bad Oil Separator which will cost me $2,100 to replace it.

My question is can it be DIY? how hard it is ? where it locate?

Also they mentioned the card has a little overheat on left-side of engine cyn1-3, it was a bad cool barrel, what’s that? They quote me $850 for fix it.

Any input will much appreciate.

Well, lets first explain what a P1124 code means. This code is generated when the O2 sensor on bank1 reaches it voltage limit as it attempts to richen out the fuel injectors on bank 1. This means that bank 1 is running too lean. Some of the causes of a lean condition may include a vacuum leak or a clogged injector and maybe even 1 or 2 bad plugs A leak in the exhaust system before the O2 sensor could also cause this code to be generated. There are other causes for a lean engine, but they will generally cause both sides of the engine to run lean.

An oil seperator, in the case of your 996, simply receives the crankcase bypass gasses, cools them by receiving them from the engine and passing them through a chamber (oil seperator) that is cooled by your engine's coolant. The majority of the solid oil that may goes into the seperator is drawn back into the oil pan and the gasses are returned to the engine through a hose to the throttle body.

I have no idea how a you would diagnose a bad seperator as causing a lean condition. Other than a broken hose that would blow oil gasses over the engine, a the symptoms of a bad oil seperator would be oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the oil. It would not, directly or indirectly effect the operation of one side of the engine.

It sounds like the tech is trying to make a few extra bucks. First of all, replacing the seperator is not a big job, and secondly, it is unrelated to you problem. When was the last time you changed you plugs? Have you checked all vacuum lines? Cleaned the MAF? Used fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank?

If you insist on having a dealer diagnose and do the repair, I strongly suggest you go to another dealer and do not tell them what your previous diagnosis was.

Is your car overheating?

Edited by Loren

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Thank you very much for your nice comments.

Yes, the car running hot than normal recently and causing engine stalled during traffic. I was change a lot of things already, fuel filter, spark plugs, MAF sensor, spark plugs sleeves and of cause, added the injector cleanser, frequently.

My local Porsche (and European cars) mechanic shop can not resolve this problem, so I go to the dealer.

Any other suggestion?

Thanks again.

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Thank you very much for your nice comments.

Yes, the car running hot than normal recently and causing engine stalled during traffic. I was change a lot of things already, fuel filter, spark plugs, MAF sensor, spark plugs sleeves and of cause, added the injector cleanser, frequently.

My local Porsche (and European cars) mechanic shop can not resolve this problem, so I go to the dealer.

Any other suggestion?

Thanks again.

When you say hot...how do you know? Where is the gauge sitting? Are both your fans running in front? Yu should hear them if you go to the front of the car with the engine running. Is your temperature light on Flashing fast/slow? Do you lose coolant? If so, from where? Does the engine lid fan run when you say you are overheating? Edited by Loren

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Thanks again! Sorry I did state clearly. The temperature gauge was passed the right middle (usually only stay in the center) and went to close to next digit, front fans was engaged however I could not tell if the rear fan on or not. The over heat light not on yet because I not drove it too far (20-30miles). The car was run rich and hot on left side for sure.

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Thanks again! Sorry I did state clearly. The temperature gauge was passed the right middle (usually only stay in the center) and went to close to next digit, front fans was engaged however I could not tell if the rear fan on or not. The over heat light not on yet because I not drove it too far (20-30miles). The car was run rich and hot on left side for sure.
I still don't know how you know it is running hot. It is normal for the temp gauge to be above the 180 mark. Having the needle on the "0" in 180 is not hot. How do you know that the left side of the engine is hotter than the right side? Your engine is NOT running rich based on your error code of 1124.

Is there coolant in your coolant tank in the engine compartment? Have you ever flushed the coolant? Have they checked the thermostat?

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Hi, the temp gauge is over the 180 mark and close to the next mark. The engine running rich and hot one left side was according the dealer told me. The coolant is kind normal. The thermostat been checked and it's okay.

If possible, can you hint me how to replace the Oil Separator, and what parts I need. Thanks.

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Hi, the temp gauge is over the 180 mark and close to the next mark. The engine running rich and hot one left side was according the dealer told me. The coolant is kind normal. The thermostat been checked and it's okay.

If possible, can you hint me how to replace the Oil Separator, and what parts I need. Thanks.

The first thing you need to do so you do not get raped by the dealer or anyone else, is to buy a scanner that will show you the readings of various engine sensors, such as engine temp, MAF, O2 sensors, etc. There are several available. Do a search here. DO NOT simply get a code reader as it will tell you nothing. Cost is less than $250, some are only $100 or so.

If your temp light is not going on or the gauge is not to the top of the range, you probably do not have a major problem. The seperator has nothing to do with engine temp or running lean. I would like to know how the dealer has determoined that only one side of the engien is running hot and not the otherside. The only way that could happen without misfire is that there is a blockage of some sort. Like I said before, check with another dealer.

Get the scanner...you can use it on all your new cars and you won't be operating blind. Confirm that BOTH fans are operating in front. Get down on your kness and listen to each one. Also make sure they are running at full speed. Make sure there is no blockage (leaves) in front of the radiators. Try driving around with the bleeder valve open on the coolant tank. You will see a black cap on the tank that has a little silver wire on it. Pull this lever up so it is straight up and down. This will allow air to escape the system while you are driving and will cause no operational problems.

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Call dealer again and ask about the overheat issue. The true is I need a new coolant reservoir tank which is cracked. Thank you for all your input.

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