Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

RMS, again, opinions on engine replacement.


Recommended Posts

Excellent thread on the "Underperforming seal". Lots of info.

My car is going for it's second RMS leak next week. Got the lowdown on the new seal with the plastic installation aid ring from the above thread, as well as the new tool. But, I think they did all that the first time, january 2005, so I'm not so certain it will work. If this leaks again, they may offer me a "new" engine.

How about some opinions? I've got 36K miles on this engine. I'm actually quite happy with it, not a problem other than the RMS leak. The "new" engine, if it's offered, as I understand from previous postings is a re-manufactured one. If offered, would you guys take it?

It seems like a no brainer, TAKE IT. Brand new, I probably would. But re-manufactured? Why was it re-manufactured? Would I be replacing one problem for another, or worse, inheriting a new one top of the RMS?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

remanufactured engines are not made from blown up engines

after the engines are built at stuttgart, they are placed on a dyno for a half hour or so

they are required to be within 2-3% of stated output by german law

the ones that don't pass are taken to a separate line where they are adjusted by special techs that we were told can usually tell what the problem is by looking at the dyno chart

aloha

steve

Excellent thread on the "Underperforming seal". Lots of info.

My car is going for it's second RMS leak next week. Got the lowdown on the new seal with the plastic installation aid ring from the above thread, as well as the new tool. But, I think they did all that the first time, january 2005, so I'm not so certain it will work. If this leaks again, they may offer me a "new" engine.

How about some opinions? I've got 36K miles on this engine. I'm actually quite happy with it, not a problem other than the RMS leak. The "new" engine, if it's offered, as I understand from previous postings is a re-manufactured one. If offered, would you guys take it?

It seems like a no brainer, TAKE IT. Brand new, I probably would. But re-manufactured? Why was it re-manufactured? Would I be replacing one problem for another, or worse, inheriting a new one top of the RMS?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MY99-01 replacement engines don't have the AC attached, MY02-04 do. At least, AFAIK.

Thanks for the replies. There have been a lot, or at least what rumor has as a lot, of returned 996 engines. I have visions of these same engines being dismantled, washed and scrubbed, re-assembled, bubble gum and band-aids applied, then sent back out as "re-manufactured" :D.

What are "re-manufactured" engines, anyway? As was said, are they simply new engines, never placed in a car, that were re-tuned after failiing a dyno?

Edited by Palting 996 C4S
Link to comment
Share on other sites

MY99-01 replacement engines don't have the AC attached, MY02-04 do. At least, AFAIK.

Thanks for the replies. There have been a lot, or at least what rumor has as a lot, of returned 996 engines. I have visions of these same engines being dismantled, washed and scrubbed, re-assembled, bubble gum and band-aids applied, then sent back out as "re-manufactured" :D.

What are "re-manufactured" engines, anyway? As was said, are they simply new engines, never placed in a car, that were re-tuned after failiing a dyno?

hmm.. another selling point, 2Y warranty on the engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Take the new engine, but beware, it is a green engine, and despite advice to the contrary, should be broken in for the first 1-2K miles.

I had the recurring RMS issue, and had a remanufactured engine installed. The advice from Porsche was drive it like I normally do, which I did, and 500 miles later, it threw a rod and cracked the case. So on the next engine, I drove it by the new car regime, keeping the revs under 4000 for the first 2000 miles. This engine has been superb! Don't know if the first engine self-destructing was coincidence or what, but that is what happened to me.

Here is what the new (remanufactured) engines look like. Nice thing is that they get all of the updates from the 2005 996 run.

newengine.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

"remanufactured engines are not made from blown up engines."

So, what are they made from, skylar?

For Gary, dream on....

So, what are you saying? You would NOT take the remanufactured engine if the only problem with the 36K mile one is RMS?

there goes Jeff again, getting people edgy,

We don't call Jeff a tool without good reason! :clapping:

Get a new motor, you will not regret it. Only suggestion is to wait until you have 40K on the chassis, so all of the maintenance requirements will still line up. i.e you will do a break-in oil change at 45K miles, and then you are back on the regular maintenance schedule, except you do the 60K at 100K.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK! Thanks again for the replies.

40K miles will be about right. Replace RMS at 36K miles, run around several tracks for the next several months. If it leaks again, it will go back to the dealership during winter hibernation before the extended warranty wears out. Then, leisurely break-in during spring the following year. Cool!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.