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Upgrading the speakers helps, but I would also add a rear speaker kit (driven w/ an amp not just the head unit - to match the power evenly). Better dash speakers will increase the clarity dramatically and adding rears changes the focal point of the music. Changing the focal point in the vehicle drastically increases the low end/bass presence from your door speakers. I'm not a die hard audiophile but I do enjoy clear music. I made the following changes easily to my '99 and am pleased w/ the results:

- changed out dash speakers w/ 4.25" Infinity Refence Series $80

- added PNP rear speaker kit - $225

- swapped out factory 4x40 amp w/ a used 6x40 from a 996 - $80

Everything still looks stock, but sounds great. It took about 3 evenings of work to complete. The only other thing I might do some rainy day is replace the door woofers - but it's not a priority as they only produce lows.

Pricey custom brackets are NOT at all necessary - just some simple modifications to non visible parts of the existing ones and either 4 short pieces of wire w/ connectors or a soldering iron can do the trick! Good luck and do an archives search on 'speaker' or 'rear speakers' to find great step by step instructions from others here.

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The PNP rear speaker kit made a remarkable improvement in the sound quality of my 2000 Boxster. I'm running them off the headunit.

I like Cassibox's approach and when I have some time, I will probably upgrade my other speakers and the amp as well.

Some people advocate replacing the headunit, but I like the stock look.

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Sammy-

Yes, I got mine thru Ebay. They show up occasionally, but not all the time. Just make sure you get the one that matches your system - M490 or M680 (has DSP). You can add a M680 to a 490 system, but only if you get the control panel and are interested in modifying your center consol to fit it. The other option would be to just add a 2ch amp piggy-back to your stock amp to drive just the rears. (PNP has a kit on Ebay often, but it's another $200 which I think is high and the power rating is so much higher than stock, most of your sound/power will come from the rear then). The other place I think you might be able to find one is a local swap.

I'd check w/ a dealer just to find out the cost of a new 6x40 amp so you can bid intelligently on the used one. Personally, I wouldn't pay over $100 but that's just me.

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Do you have separate sound system control below your radio in the center? If so, you've probably got the 680 DSP. If not, then as long as you have door speakers, you'll have the M490 pkg. You can check the options listed on the sticker in the front trunk, or look at the sticker on the amp in the front trunk. The front trunk sticker will just list option 490 or option 680. If you check out the amp, your sticker will look like the one below except your part # will start w/ 986.... and will either have M490 or 680 where I have circled in red:

post-9673-1147222221_thumb.jpg

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I added the PNP rear speaker kit and a small 30w 2 channel amp which fit under the passenger seat. Changed out the front dash to MB Quart 4" and 3/4" components, left the door speakers stock, going to put bass blockers on them since I added the small kenwood powered sub which fit behind the passenger seat with only sacrificing about 2" of legroom.

One question I have, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Haes 4x40 amp, I want to put the bass blockers on the door speakers without opening up the door panels.

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Are you sure you want to do this? The door speakers are designed to be subs all be it small ones. If you block the bass to them they will probably produce a really muddy mid range. If you want to alter the door speakers from subs to full range you really should just replace the speakers.

Jon

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I either want to block the low frequency since they bottom out at higher volumes, or disconnect them. The kenwood sub has much better bass so I don't really need the door speakers anymore. The rest of the speakers have crossovers so just the door speakers distort from the bass.

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I added the PNP rear speaker kit and a small 30w 2 channel amp which fit under the passenger seat. Changed out the front dash to MB Quart 4" and 3/4" components, left the door speakers stock, going to put bass blockers on them since I added the small kenwood powered sub which fit behind the passenger seat with only sacrificing about 2" of legroom.

One question I have, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Haes 4x40 amp, I want to put the bass blockers on the door speakers without opening up the door panels.

What are the models of the 30x2 amp and "small kenwood powered sub " you used ?

Also, for anyone who knows, where is the crossover for the stock door speakers ? Is it a fixed crossover ?

Sammy-

Yes, I got mine thru Ebay. They show up occasionally, but not all the time. Just make sure you get the one that matches your system - M490 or M680 (has DSP). You can add a M680 to a 490 system, but only if you get the control panel and are interested in modifying your center consol to fit it. The other option would be to just add a 2ch amp piggy-back to your stock amp to drive just the rears. (PNP has a kit on Ebay often, but it's another $200 which I think is high and the power rating is so much higher than stock, most of your sound/power will come from the rear then). The other place I think you might be able to find one is a local swap.

I'd check w/ a dealer just to find out the cost of a new 6x40 amp so you can bid intelligently on the used one. Personally, I wouldn't pay over $100 but that's just me.

I thought that the M490 option added the 6 channel amp. When I bought my PNP rear speaker kit, Harvey told me that "...the '03-'04 M490 MOST bus cars do not need the amp kit. The cars have an amplifier capable of powering the rear speakers so you wouldn't need the additional amp. The rear speakers will plug into the existing amp with the extra harness furnished [in his kit] for the 03 and 04model years."

Edited by Andy_M
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The Kenwood sub is KSC-SW1, the 2 channel amp was an old Panasonic I had from a long time ago it's only about 3" x 5" x 1.5" and fit easily under the passenger seat. That little old amp is actually better than the factory amp, I have the gains turned almost all the way down to match the front components. The components for the dash were MB Quart RCE210 they dropped right in with very little modification.

So does anyone know about the wiring for the 4x40 haes amp?

Edited by toddhata
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I concur with Nick; I added the PNP speakers and just adjusted the fader/balance. The sound is a big improvement (worth the $225 off eBay), though I did more for my son when he rides with me. Otherwise, I prefer to listen to the car!

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On the '03-'04, the M490 option does include a 6x amp. '02 and prior only include a 4x amp. Mine is a '99 and I originally only had a 4x40 as part of my M490. As I recall, I think the original question was regarding an '02 which would be the same.

As for the crossover to door speakers, I'm pretty sure (but not 100%) it's fixed and part of the amp circuitry. Therefore, even if you swapped out the doors w/ full range speakers, you'd still only get low.

Edited by Cassiebox
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The Kenwood sub is KSC-SW1, the 2 channel amp was an old Panasonic I had from a long time ago it's only about 3" x 5" x 1.5" and fit easily under the passenger seat. That little old amp is actually better than the factory amp, I have the gains turned almost all the way down to match the front components. The components for the dash were MB Quart RCE210 they dropped right in with very little modification.

So does anyone know about the wiring for the 4x40 haes amp?

I'm thinking seriously about using that KSC-SW1 myself. Out of curiosity, where did you take the signal feeds for it from ?

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To feed the Kenwood sub, I connected the PNP rear speaker kit to the stock stereo, cut into the speaker wires to add the small amp under the passenger seat, fed the rear speaker wires from the amp, cut into those wires to the Kenwood sub. The power for the rear speakers and the sub are more than enough since the front stock amp is pretty weak.

I put a piece of wood under the carpet and mounted the sub upright, so it's facing the back of the seat. It's only 1 click from all the way back so no issues of losing leg room.

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Thanks for all the advice and tips. Now how and were do the rear speakers mount?

Try this thread, found Q-shipp986's links very helpful. Rear speakers install behind the seats into the required storage unit. HTH

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To feed the Kenwood sub, I connected the PNP rear speaker kit to the stock stereo, cut into the speaker wires to add the small amp under the passenger seat, fed the rear speaker wires from the amp, cut into those wires to the Kenwood sub. The power for the rear speakers and the sub are more than enough since the front stock amp is pretty weak.

I put a piece of wood under the carpet and mounted the sub upright, so it's facing the back of the seat. It's only 1 click from all the way back so no issues of losing leg room.

OK..so if I am understanding you right, I tap the PNP feeds to the rear speakers from my amp to feed the subwoofer. Where did you pick up the power for the sub from? Did you run a feed all the way up to the fuse box...or was there a closer option ?

BTW...I installed the PNP kit this weekend. WHAT A DIFFERENCE in the sound stage ! It makes the whole system sound better right off the bat. I'm in the process of replacing the dash speakers with Infinity reference seties 4" coaxials now, but have ran into a snag with the depth. There is a bolt protruding through a bracket above the glovebox that is about 1/2" longer than it needs to be, and it is hitting the speaker. I either have to lift the speaker UP inside the mount (modified stock speaker frame) or find and replace that bolt with one that is about 1/2" shorter. I'm only off by about 1/8".

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Problem was the speaker depth. The NEW model Infinity 4012i states its mounting depth at 1.64" or ~41mm so I thought the older model I had would fit (4001i). I had purchased them for my daughter's car 2 years ago and never used them. Problem is that the older speaker's mounting depth is more like 2" or 53mm depth and won't fit in the space thats there. The OEM speaker was about 46mm mount depth and, after much measuring, I believe that the mounting depth of any new speaker has to be under 50mm to clear. My car is a 2003.

I did find that the hack to modify the existing speaker basket/bracket and use it as a mount for new speakers works fine. I actually did it just a bit different than the current hack describes, rather than cut off the mounting ears from the new speakers, I used a dremel tool to notch the mounting bracket out for them, then crimped the tabs over and under the mounting bracket flange to secure the speaker. I then hit them with a small dab of hot glue just to be sure and dampen any potential rattle. Worked like a charm and they didn't rattle - they just didn't fit !.

Last night I double checked mounting depths, then ordered sets of MB Quart DKD110's (4" coaxial) for the dash and DKE116 (6 1/2" coaxial) for the doors. I ordered the 6 1/2" speaker model because I have read, in a couple of different places, that the MB Quart Discus series 6 1/2" speakers will fit in the unmodified 5 1/2" enclosures because they are designed much shallower than other speakers. I checked, and their mounting depth IS the same as most 5 1/2" speakers.

I'll let you know how they sound, and if the DKE116 sounds clear or muddy in the doors since it is a coaxial and not a dedicated mid-bass speaker.

Edited by Andy_M
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Andy,

For the sub install, I ran the power and switched power from the head unit, just spliced in there. Seems to be enough to power the sub, I got a little lazy and didn't run it through the firewall to the battery. When you get to the door speakers, can you let me know what color the wires are?

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Andy,

For the sub install, I ran the power and switched power from the head unit, just spliced in there. Seems to be enough to power the sub, I got a little lazy and didn't run it through the firewall to the battery. When you get to the door speakers, can you let me know what color the wires are?

Will do. The car is down while I'm waiting for the new speakers and brackets to get to me, so I will probably just go ahead and pull the door speakers out tonight and do some reconnaissance on what is there..

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Andy,

For the sub install, I ran the power and switched power from the head unit, just spliced in there. Seems to be enough to power the sub, I got a little lazy and didn't run it through the firewall to the battery. When you get to the door speakers, can you let me know what color the wires are?

OK...only have the pass side off at the moment, but speaker wires for that side are green and green with a brown stripe.

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OK...only have the pass side off at the moment, but speaker wires for that side are green and green with a brown stripe.

Thanks Andy, I'll check the amp and see if it matches, maybe I can figure out the drivers side, unless you get to it and post the colors.

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