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Try 0814

Hi! Here’s what it shows for the serial number.

Which tells me there is nothing wrong with either your guides or the chains themselves. Looking at the photos you posted of the guides, they look like the newer design, possibly indicating that they have already been replaced. If that is the case, the debris in your sump may be the wear bits from the old units.

Cam deviation position 1: -0.36 Cam deviation position 2: 0.58

The serial number determines the radio code. I must have the serial number to help you.

Cdr-220. Can you help with a code for y5042409 ? This newbie thanks you!

What were the cam deviation values for the engine? Spec is +/- 6 degrees; when these cam pads are too worn, we see deviation values in the high single digits due to excessive slack in the chains.

Took the driver side cam cover off today. The outer guide seems like it has very little wear. The long rails look like they are wearing, but doesn't explain the black plastic pieces. Does the amount of wear on the lower rail warrant replacing?

Just be sure to get the latest version, we have never had any problems with the OEM replacements.

From your mouth to my ears! Done, thanks.

Factory.

2016 Macan S Ignition Coils Hi all. Changing plugs for 1st time at 52k miles and seems I should change coils as well. In addition to Porsche Genuine, several options available-Bremi, APR, Beru. Any recommendations?

Timing chain tensioners wear pads. I bought a neglected Boxster where the owner kept driving and the pieces eventually blocked the oil pickup and wiped out a rod bearing. You should change them even though they’ve likely been done once at that mileage.

No better sound than a sport exhaust on a Porsche!

That is just magic! Thanks. I mostly like to hear the engine purr but I do like to have everything working.

Try 9085

I picked up a 1998 Boxster and the radio code is nowhere to be found. Please help. Serial number is. V5016831 I looked through and tried all the codes listed with no luck. Thanks

I was just thinking about cutting the gray pink wire myself. Were you ever able to resolve this? Our stories seem very similar.

Just going to keep reporting on things that haven't resulted in a successful calibration. Fuses checked. Battery on charger and showing 14.34v. Mini switches in the latch cleaned, and all report anticipated actual values in PIWIS 38.25 with one exception. The switch depressed by the fork arm when the top makes contact with the windscreen frame reports results the opposite of expected values: when in the service position, it reports Convertible top raised. When manually depressed, engaging the switch, it reports Convertible top not raised. Back and forth, 1:1 with depressing and releasing the "fork." The one other anomalous actual value reported is speed which continues to show > 5kmh. Parking brake is engaged and that is reflected in actual values. Latch bench tests as expected: deploys under power, retracts when polarity is reversed. Then latch was reset per the FSM before reattempting calibration. Side potentiometer arm (reminds me of a large paperclip 🙂) is intact (unbroken) and captive by pin on hydraulic ram so that pot moves freely when the ram moves. (Not captive as in bound.) Side flaps lubricated and behave as expected (up and down) when actuated via drive links, with anticipated actual values reported. (Up is up, down is down). Hydraulic pump has fluid, no leaks, and when power is directly applied, goes up and down (when polarity reversed) as expected. Clamshell motor has been disassembled and relubed and bench tests as expected. Installed, it seemed to be binding, so I completely disassembled the clamshell transmission. No broken cables or gears, and I cleaned out all the crud before relubing everything. With everything reinstalled, when power is directly applied to the motor, clamshell smoothly goes up and down (when polarity reversed). Potentiometer set to 6.24k ohms on bench; tests 6.28k ohms installed onto clamshell transmission on car. All points of the top frame that move have been lubricated with teflon dry lube. When the hydraulic fluid relief valve is open, the top can be raised and lowered by hand with no binding. When I depress the #3 microswitch (latching hook, windscreen frame) with my finger, the rear windows will go up when their respective buttons are pressed. When released, they will not. As expected. When attempting to calibrate, nothing moves and "Function inactive, end position not reached." Control module replaced with same part number: when attempting to calibrate, nothing moves and "Function inactive, end position not reached." I'm running out of ideas. It's as if every single component works exactly as I'd expect it to work, but in concert, the software is like, "nope." On a lark, I even asked Durametric to calibrate it. "ECU returned a negative response. Sub function not supported / invalid format."

2004 Boxster S. 165k miles. New to me. I found some small, black, plastic pieces (smaller versions of the one in the picture) in my oil filter after a recent oil change, and when dumping the old oil I found a single ferrous metal shaving (no more than a few mm wide). I drained the fresh oil and dropped the oil pan to investigate further. The picture is what I found in the pan. The dust stuck to the magnet came from the drained oil. The strips next to the dime were one piece stuck in the oil pick-up screen, and I'm pretty sure it is a piece of the sealant. The amber, glass-like bits are brittle and transparent and very smooth. Thoughts?

Try 2321

Hi there, Disconnected the battery on my new (to me) 986 with CR22. S/N is 15040196. Could I get the code please? Thank you!

Brilliant! Thank you!!

Try 6480

Need a radio code for s/n t5003851 please model CR210 97 986