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Thanks Loren. You are the expert. Flawless rear Savannah Beige 996 leatherette seats are currently available in Sydney, AUS.
pricebill started following Homemade Iphone Mount, were 996 leather rear seats available in Savanna Beige?, right rear rattle with video and audio and and 1 other
I recently purchased a complete Savannah Beige set of seats from an '02 996 owner. I installed the front seats in my Boxster and put the rears on ebay. I assumed they were leather as the fronts were definitely so. The winner of my ebay auction is complaining bitterly that I've swindled him and the rears are in leatherette. Sadly he's in Australia and I'm in Los Angeles so I'm not in much of a position to argue and have arranged (at my own expense) to have them returned for a full refund. The roundtrip shipping will now eclipse the very reasonable $199 price I sold them for. A complete disaster. I did a little research this afternoon and downloaded a 2003 Carrera Coupe Order Guide. (On page 12) the Savannah Beige Full Leather package seems to indicate that only the rear seat centers and rear seat lateral supports were in leather. The other packages (black, grey, etc) don't make any mention of the rears being anything but full leather. Does that mean the Savanna Beige seats might be a combination of leatherette and leather? Is the winner of my auction mistaken? He seems to think that Option Codes 936 and 939 would provide full leather seats in the rear no matter what. I would like to hear from the experts. Also; if the full leather rear seats are available in Savanna Beige and you happen to have a set for sale I have a customer for you. He will only pay $199US and you'll be responsible for shipping both ways if he doesn't like them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/320916963556 INTERI SD Savanna Beige Full Leather - Items finished in leather: A-pillar/windscreen 999 frame trim (1.0), B-pillar trim (1.3), C-pillar trim (1.4), rear panel trim (1.5), switch panel (2.0), instrument cover/airbag cover (2.1), steering wheel rim (2.7a), airbag module (2.7b), door trim (3.0), door panel (3.1), front of door handle (3.2), glove box cover (3.3), side airbag cover (3.4), lid of storage bin (4.1), gear lever/Tiptronic gear selector and handbrake lever (4.4a/4.4b), Tiptronic gear selector gate (4.6), front center console side trim (4.2), rear center console side trim (4.3), rear seat area side trim (5.0), seat center (7.0), lateral supports and head restraints (7.1), rear seat centers (7.3), and rear seat lateral supports (7.4). Steering column (2.7d) in soft touch paint. Sun visors in leatherette.
Wow. It's been years since I first wandered in here with my '98 Boxster and here I am again with a '99 911. I just couldn't stay away. CDr-22 type 4462 serial w5011359 Thanks in advance for my code.
Hi everyone, I'm embarrassed to say that it's been a while since I've been back to these forums. My '98 Boxster has been running incredibly well until last week when I began hearing a rattle from the right rear of the car. I've done a pretty good search about rattles and soon I'll be removing the serpentine belt to see if the sound is coming from one of the pulleys or begin the sad process of hitting the heat shields with a rubber mallet. In the meantime I thought I'd post up a video / audio of the actual noise and see if someone much smarter than me can provide the proper diagnosis. The rattle sounds like a bunch of angry crickets on a hot summer night and it increases in pitch with revs but is always there. New water pump two years ago. Perhaps it's time for another? http://www.vimeo.com/15371121 Thanks in advance, -Bill
My apologies for adding to this old thread but I'm seriously envious of everyone who managed the engine mount replacement with minimal trouble. I have not been so lucky and am looking for some help. Witness the attached pictures. With my new mount bolted to the frame I am now about an inch away from lining up the mount with the engine. Examination of the old mount shows that not only was the rubber seriously torn from the mount but pushed heavily to the left side of the car. (When I say left or right I am looking forward from the rear of the car). UPDATE: I installed the frame mount upside-down. This is what happens when you don't do the job all in one go. Car now back together with minimal fuss. Next time I'll take pictures during the entire process for reference. Of course there will be no next time because I hope I die before I have to spend that much time underneath my own car cursing myself. -bill 1998 Boxster 2.5.
The audio quality out of the iPod portion of the phone is crystal clear. The RFI from the phone communicating over the air is another story. From this position on the dash an occasional light ticking can be heard through the car speakers. Pull it out of the cradle and stick it anywhere near the Becker and the racket is terrible. I put a layer of aluminum foil between the phone / stereo and this eliminated all of the noise but then wrapping the phone up like left over food isn't really the look I'm hoping for. Pulling the Becker and wrapping it in an adhesive RFI foil like this might be the next step. Putting the phone back into it's orginial position (jammed into the far right corner of the passenger seat) also eliminates all RFI. This is a work in progress.
I've been looking for a car mount for my new iPhone. With it's big fat touch screen connected to Google Maps I felt like this would be the first phone I'd like in my line of sight while driving. Unfortunately all of the mounts built especially for the Boxster put the phone at hip level. I don't want to glance toward the floor of the vehicle to see who is calling. I also didn't want a suction cup-gooseneck combo snaking it's way down from the windshield trailing a bunch of cords. The order of the day was; a drop-in mount containing iPhone power and an audio connection to the AUX in on my Becker CDR-220. I've had the dash apart twice; once to clean the insides of the speedo/tach faces and again to install the OBC hack. While in there I thought there might be just enough room on the right post for a piece of metal. You can see my first mock-ups cut out of cardboard below. I laid these templates out onto some 1/8" tin and cut them with tin snips. I quickly realized that even when doubled, the bracket was going to keep my iPhone wiggling back and forth with every bump in the road. I cut a second brace in a slight curve to eliminate fore and aft movement. I imagined the graceful curve emulating the designed curves of the interior pieces. Then I wrapped the whole mess in automotive black vinyl with good old 3M spray-on glue to keep it in place. It's not beautiful. Bolt on the Dice iPod cradle and from anywhere but the drivers seat, I've created a monster. The whole thing runs into the AUX channel of the Becker via Belkin's Auto adapter. Everything is hard wired under the dash and turns on with the key. Power, audio and cradle problems temporarily solved. Hate? Access to the hazard switch is a reach around and the whole thing really takes over the dash. The Dice cradle only comes with plastic inserts for iPods so my phone is still sort of loose although they've promised a new insert for the iPhone (some day). Sure would be nice if they came out with a cradle with a phone mute line and a working RCA video / audio out. Love? I haven't destroyed the interior; this can all disappear without a trace when someone answers my iPhone in-car dreams. It's perfect placement for navigation, in-coming calls and reading e-mail while stuck in traffic. I am cable free once again. I never built anything like this before and I'm showing you so that either you'll build a better one or at least point me in the direction of someone who has. -bill
I can't believe I'm back asking for another code this fast but I found a CDR-220 on ebay and ordered a Blau/83NPUT cable for it so I could plug in an iPod and keep everything looking fairly stock. Of course all promises of "code included" with the radio were completely false. Here are the specs on the new radio. Type: CDR 220 Model No.: BE 6625 Serial No. 25015180 Thank you. -b
I ordered a new brake booster and stainless lines from Pelican and finally got a chance to install all this weekend. Here's how things went. After removing the battery cover and the left side piece of plastic over the steering I found a small swimming pool of brackish water. Initially I paid no attention to RFM's earlier advice about water in the brake booster because I'm in Southern California and it just doesn't rain here. Being a new owner I DID wash the car myself (also unheard of in Southern California) and the drains for this area of the car were completely blocked. So really, in washing my car I managed to destroy my brake booster. Excellent. Installing the new one involves removing the master brake cylinder and ABS brake pump. While I was bleeding each brake I installed the new stainless lines. Three new tools now live with me; a Torx 45 driver (to remove the booster), a low profile jack (my big one just wouldn't fit under the baby porsche) and a Motive Power Bleeder. I can't believe I had never heard of this last piece of equipment. I spent a whole afternoon this summer using one of those stupid mighty-vac's on my '74 Thing and having the most miserable time bleeding the brakes. Pump up the Motive to 20 psi and open the valves at each wheel. SO easy. The brake booster was more canteen than booster. It was slightly rusty inside and filled almost half way. If I had to do the whole thing over again I'd pull the line from the manifold and stick a long wooden matchstick in there to check for water. I'm certain that sucking it out with a tube might have gotten it working again and saved me the 5 or so hours I killed this afternoon. Maybe someone who knows how this piece of equipment actually works could let me know if it can ever be brought back to life after drowning. I know that I did the right thing in replacing it but I was sort of hoping to DRIVE somewhere this weekend. The brake fluid that came out of each valve was particularly brown and ugly. The clear beautiful stuff that followed was nice to see. I'm going to go out and bleed the clutch in a second. I was pretty certain when I bought this car that I would never touch it mechanically. Having owned a series of ancient vehicles (Scout II, DeVille, 230SL) that I worked on myself I just couldn't imagine taking apart anything on a Porsche. This is the second time in two weeks that I have avoided very expensive trips to the mechanic just by listening to advice given here on renntech. Thanks. My car now stops. -bill
8762 was the charm. Like magic. Thanks very much. -bill
I've got the same problem. Two days ago the brake pedal on my '98 goes just slightly mushy at the first touch. About an inch of soft play and then a quick pump will bring it back to the firm feel I've been used to. LAST night I hit the brakes at very slow speed and they locked almost immediately. I pulled the pedal back with the side of my shoe and we were off. The brake fluid reservoir is full and there's no dripping in the driveway. As per this discussion over on pelican parts here I'm going to replace the brake lines and then replace the booster. I'll let you know how it goes. -bill
Ok. I did the OBC hack yesterday and am pleased to report that it worked flawlessly. Now of course the radio is needing a code and calls to the previous owner, mechanic, etc have not turned up anything. I looked under the hood and in every manual. So. It's a Becker CDR 210. Model No. BE 2282 Serial: V5010459 I'd love the magic code for this unit. Thanks in advance. -bill