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My 2001 C2 top has not worked the entire five years I've owned the car, full saga below.* Without all the back story, here's where I am today. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached." The front latch is reset per the service manual, and the clamshell potentiometer was installed at as close to 6.2k ohms as I can get it (about 6.24-6.26). [I rebuilt this engine in my dining room with my cat, 12,000 miles ago—I may not know what I'm doing, but I can follow directions.] Top is in service position. Actual Values / Input Signals Latch locked Catch not locked Latched unlocked Catch not unlocked (can't be both, right, has to be one or the other?) Convertible top Convertible top raised Convertible top compartment Convertible top compartment lid unlocked Right side flap up Right side flap not up Right side flap down Right side flap down Left side flap up Left Side flap not up Left side flap down Left side flap down Speed Speed >5 km/h (3 mph) (that's not correct) Handbrake Applied Latching hook Latch hook not actuated Engine-compartment lid Engine-compartment lid closed Convertible top button Close convertible top button actuated Supply voltage 14.45 v Warning light on 36044.3 min (!) Actuation counter 1 1746 Actuation counter 2 65536 Calibration counter 2 Pot 1, convertible top 0.92 v Pot 2 (conv. top compartment. lid) 2.51 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 1 0.80 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 2 1.27 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 3 1.88 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 4 2.29 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 5 2.96 v Calibration: Pot 1 val 6 3.22 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 1 1.55 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 2 1.82 v Calibration: Pot 2 val 3 2.00 Calibration: Pot 2 val 4 2.71 These aren't even actual calibration values, are they, they're stored values from the last time it successfully calibrated. It's my latch isn't it. There's a microswitch I've overlooked, a stupid simple on off switch, and because of that, it never starts the calibration process. Guess I'm going out there one more time this weekend and taking that off again. Insight invited, thanks for letting me ramble. 😄 Keith *The Complete Saga I bought the car like this in January of 2001. Tip cab with a top that had been manually put up via emergency procedure. Dash light for the top was on. I found a matching hardtop an hour away that same week, manually put the top down, slapped the hardtop on, and drove it. Turns out, the left rear window regulator had failed and someone had manually pulled it up (the motor was missing) and then drove a drywall screw through the regulator frame close enough under the bottom of the window bracket that the window stayed up. I rebuilt both rear window regulators and in October of 2021, started working on the top. I probably didn't reset the latch correctly at that time, or the clamshell pot. Still, I told Durametric to calibrate and it started to. When the top moved doubt 1/2 way up, I could hear the pump motor straining and—since the rear interior panels were still off—I took a look: both hydraulic pistons were jetting fluid down the rain drains. I put the hard top back on. Then the engine failed, then (unrelated) I moved, and I spent all of 2023 rebuilding it. July, 2024, I sent two cores to Cab Hydraulics in Sarasota to rebuild. Put them in, new hoses too, and this time I reset the latch and the clamshell pot correctly. I think. But there was no longer a top warning light on on the cluster. I told Durametric to calibrate it, and it wouldn't. Opened a dialogue with the developers, sent them logs they asked for, did everything the guy said, and the last I heard was that maybe their software wouldn't calibrate it unless it was in an error state. Then (not their fault) I took a job and started the process of moving. Hard top went back on. July 2026, time to get back to it. I knew I was going to have to have access to PIWIS, so I followed that thread on some other forum ("under $75") and got the image running on my shop computer. Which, I understand, isn't the same as pulling up to the dealer, so I'm aware that's a possible failure point. I 100% believe the latch and clamshell pot to be correctly reset now. No dash light. When I click "Calibrate," nothing happens and PIWIS 3 returns "Function inactive, end position not reached."

Try 6410

Hi can you send me my code please. CDR-220 MOD# 4462 SERIAL# 15063841 Thank you!!

Will use allan wrench. Paul

Does not look like an expansion riveret. Maybe the door plastic cover is held in with three T5 screws.

I am having a problem removing the cover in the door area to get to the nut that holds the tank. The screws are difficult to remove due to the door swing. The part is called a expansion riveret A6,0 x 12,0 Any help in telling me what tool to use to remove the three expansions rieverets? A T10 does not work. Paul

Does anyone have any step by step info on how to replace the plastic heater pipe with the aluminium pipe part # 94810606910. There was an attempt made on a Rennlist posting but no conclusion. The 6 Speed site shows the before and after, but very little about the how, and it appears that the engine was dropped anyway to replace the rear distribution manifold. I don't want to drop the engine, that's out of the question, so any tips would be welcome. I have removed the intake manifold and fuel rail to replace the starter for an intermittent partial crank starter issue. Found an abandoned mouse nest in there and the PCV vacuum control wire and a knock sensor wires were completely chewed through and the wires on another knock sensor were gnawed exposing the bare wire. I have replaced two knock sensor plugs and spliced the vacuum valve wires by soldering and covering each conductor with heat shrink tubing and then covering both with another heat shrink tube and then wrapping them with high temperature glass cloth tape and the wrapping them again with Lakota anti-rodent tape. Since I'm the valley, I want to replace as much as I can within reason; the starter as mentioned as well as the knock sensors, the heater pipe 94810606910 and the plastic coolant vent pipes, the water pump and thermostat. I also replaced the manifold gaskets as there was signs of vapour staining around a couple of the intake ports. It's a 2008 CTT with over 190000 km, the body and frame are in excellent shape and the it runs well, no MIL and there were no codes on my Bluedriver scan. The previous owner followed Porsche's guidelines and had the oil and filter changed at 20,000 km and once a year intervals at the Porsche dealer which probably led to the stretched timing chain and cracked and deteriorated chain guides which I got repaired with assistance of an aftermarket warranty shortly after I purchased it at 180 000 km. I change the oil at 5000 to 7500 km intervals or once a year which ever comes first, I don't drive it all the time as I have a winter beater and a summer beater too to run local errands.

Thanks a lot friend, you made my day!!

Try 4897

Hi Guys, bought a cdr220 to replace my broken 210. I would need the code. Serial Y5044708 Type BE 4462 Thanks a lot!!!!

Try 7097

I need help with radio code. S/N is. V5016412. Thanks

Thank you. That is it. Appreciate your help Loren

Try 5016

I hope I can get some help in getting the radio code for my Becker CDR-210 Serial #: W50235 10 Thank you in advance for your help.

Update: 1100 miles and 24 days later. No sign of coolant anywhere. Level seems steady. Car behaves correctly. The only real problems are: the blend door foam <sigh> and the fact that the AC stayed charged for 48 hours. But that is a story for another post.

Those sponges disintegrate into dust after so many years. I suggest to vacuum the line to get any broken filter bits out.

The hard plastic vac line tend to crack after so many heat cycles esp around heatshrinked connection. black tape / heatshrink tubes over it don't work but 1/2" fuel line might seal them over it; check for fitment. it will be one repair after next. You push/pull a little too hard, or drop tool on it, the whole thing can break apart. the pump on pass side near strut tower, silver guy with audi/vw sticker, seems reliable enough, but anything with electrical motor after 200k is suspect.

Self-update: So I read up on the issue and I found, among other things, https://www.renntech.org/topic/44251-996tt-strange-coolant-leak/ . The experience would be consistent with mine, multiplied by 6.5 years as opposed to three days. The part where I'm concerned, of course, is the subsequent sudden failure when the glued in connectors decide to give way - if that is indeed what is happening. On the other hand, I do not know that it makes sense (...) to pull out an engine to get out the coolant distribution block, force out the connectors and bond them again 'just in case', but I hate the concept of not being able to trust that the car won't decide to take a break on me. From all the videos I could find, it can be *pretty difficult indeed* to say the least to pinpoint things further but.. I'm open to ideas.

No sir, the oil was positively beautiful. And - no smoke from the tailpipes either. I'm really at a loss.

No oil in the coolant. Any coolant in the oil?

As I mentioned in the other post, my US 996 is back on the road. But. But, there was an interesting mystery: the coolant was way down. As in, down by 3 quarts. The interesting part is: there was none on the ground, there was none in the engine bay (I assume the water pump has the usual weep hole which would cause pretty visible residue and/or spray. There was no coolant in the oil and, as far as I could tell, no oil in the coolant. What's my next diagnostic step? I am at a bit (a lot) of a loss. Thank you everyone!