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I can't find the P/N of the plastic body plugs found under the intercooler areas, 996TT. They're 10mm inner diameter, 17.5mm outer diameter and are hat shaped. Out of the 8, I only have one survivor and would like to put them all back. Here's a photo, next to one of the M8 screws that holds the intercooler frames.

It should be pretty much plug n play replacement. It may also need a PIWIS tester to turn on cruise - (sometimes it is on and sometimes it is off default).

I'm looking to retro fit cruise control to my 997.1 . I've purchased the lower cowling, the cruise stork and cable. There used to be a DIY of how to fit to a 987, (same for 997) but it is no longer available on here. Has anyone fitted this mod. It looks like it's plug and play, but before I start to tackle this job, I'd like to find out what's involved. Would appreciate a steer on this if anyone has tackled it TIA

Is there a question here? I don't understand?

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The factory specs say that my car should be around 150mm tall with the current springs but you can see from the picture that its sitting at 120mm right now. So maybe a fresh set of US M030 springs will actually raise my car by 10-20mm? I hope so. I don't want it to be any lower. The PSS-9 are out of my price range and would also push my car out of the factory optioned class with PCA. I did just find some US M030 springs so I'll update the thread in a few weeks when I get them installed and we will see how the ride height changes. Again, thanks for the input!

Remember the new ride height will be 10 mm lower than the stock height - plus the springs, struts and swaybars will all be firmer than the stock items. As I said before another option PSS-9 (adjustable) Coilovers - likely easier to find as either OEM or aftermarket.

I'm surprised that the springs would sag that much over time but perhaps you are right, it's the only explanation that makes sense. Just to confirm that I'm not making an error in my measurements, I've attached a pic of the front measuring point on my car. It shows that the head of the bolt is right about 4.75 inches from the ground, or around 120mm. Can you confirm that I'm measuring the height correctly or not? I'll try and source some US M030 springs to go with the struts but I wasn't having a ton of luck finding them online. Thanks again, Loren. I really appreciate your input!

Having spent months chasing down my very heavy steering (yes I know some like it like that) I have finally managed to over come the heavy steering by bypassing the servotronic system and locking it into 75% assistance effort. Here's how I did it, but I would appreciate any thoughts on why it wasn't working if anyone has any constructive comment about the acceleration sensor readings - which is what I think the main culprit is.

Anyone have any advise on what to do next?

I went to get estimates on doing a replacement; seems like a legit upholstery shop wants 3K which includes the top, labor and taxes. Here’s a few pics of what my 19 year old top looks like.

no I tried that it doesn't plug in. It's like a different connector. But I don't have a temperature sensor on the car I can find the wire for that. It makes no sense. Im really lost here.

I'm trying to decide - pay a Dealer$hip? - or Do it Myself? I need to replace the Clock Spring/Squid Ring on a 2106 Cayenne Diesel. I do have a clean, bright, dry workspace, and more than average mechanical skills. Any advice? Any reviews? Anybody installed an aftermarket part?

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Hi everyone, I’ve spent the last 18 months bringing a 2004 Cayenne S (4.5L V8) back from the dead. It sat outside for 5+ years and had a laundry list of issues. I just finished a massive diagnostic session and wanted to document the specific failures and fixes, especially regarding the "0L" CAN bus error and a terrifying compression test result that turned out to be a false alarm. The Patient Vehicle: 2004 Porsche Cayenne S (non-Turbo). History: Sat for 5 years outside in PNW. Incorrect turbo injectors installed by previous owner. Crank no-start (clogged drains, soggy floors caused the common splices under the carpets to disintegrate) Initial State: Running Condition: The car would crank and start after fixing the splices, but ran incredibly rough and would not idle without holding the gas pedal. Communication: Impossible. The Durametric scanner showed "Link Error" or could not find modules. The OBD-II port showed "0L" (Open Loop) when testing resistance between CAN High/Low (Pins 6 & 14). Phase 1: The "Invisible" Electrical Break The Symptom: I couldn't scan the car to diagnose the rough running because the Gateway wasn't talking to the OBD port. Multimeter showed "0L" (infinite resistance) across Pins 6 & 14, where it should be ~60 Ohms. The "Aha!" Moment: On 2003/2004 models (specifically my VIN with the 10th digit "4"), the Gateway is inside the Instrument Cluster. It is not a separate box under the dash like later models. The Fault: I traced the wiring and found: Continuity between OBD Pin 6 and the Green Plug on the back of the Instrument Cluster. NO Continuity between the OBD port and the main CAN splice under the Passenger Seat floor. The Fix: I bypassed the broken section of the dashboard harness. Spliced into the CAN High and Low lines near the OBD-II port. Ran a twisted-pair jumper wire directly to the factory splice point under the passenger seat carpet. Result: Resistance returned to 60 Ohms. The scanner immediately connected, showing "No Codes Found" (initially), confirming the network was back online. Phase 2: The "Smoke & Misfire" Scare Symptoms: With the electronics fixed, I could finally see what was happening. Smoke: Massive cloud of White/Grey smoke smelling strongly of raw fuel. Codes: P0300, P0303 (Cyl 3), P0308 (Cyl 8). Scary Symptom: A loud "Ticking" noise from Bank 2 (Driver's side), which often signals the dreaded bore scoring. The "False" Diagnosis: I performed a dry compression test and got terrifying numbers: Cylinder 3: 60 PSI (Dead) Cylinder 8: 100 PSI (Very low) Spark Plugs: The plugs on Cyl 3 & 8 were "steam cleaned"—the ground straps were perfectly white/clean, while the center electrodes were black. The Real Diagnosis (Fuel Wash): I performed a "Wet Compression Test" (added a tablespoon of oil to the cylinders) to see if it was rings or valves. Cyl 3 jumped to 190 PSI. Cyl 8 jumped to 230 PSI. (!) Conclusion: The engine block is healthy! The low compression was caused by Bore Wash. The cylinders were so flooded with gasoline that it washed the oil film off the walls, preventing the rings from sealing. The "Ticking" was likely a dry lifter or piston noise from the lack of lubrication. Phase 3: The Injector Diagnosis I had installed "Remanufactured" Bosch injectors (Part # 0280156101) thinking I was doing the right thing. Wiring Test: I tested the injector harness voltage (Key ON, Engine OFF) to ensure the DME wasn't shorted and holding them open. Bad Cylinders read ~7-8V. Good Cylinders read ~7-8V. Result: Wiring is perfect. The DME is functioning correctly. The Verdict: The "Remanufactured" injectors were mechanically stuck open immediately upon installation (likely due to debris in the rail or just being bad "reman" units). They were dumping fuel, washing the cylinders, and killing compression. Summary of Fixes No Comm/Rough Run: Fixed by running a dedicated CAN-Bus jumper from OBD port to Passenger Seat splice. Low Compression: Disproved engine failure via Wet Compression test (Results: 190/230 PSI). Misfire/Smoke: Identified stuck-open "Reman" injectors. Current Status: Waiting on Brand New injectors. The fuel rail is getting a deep clean, and the gas-contaminated oil is being drained. The 230 PSI result on the "Ticking" cylinder confirms the engine is saved! Hopefully, this helps someone else who sees "0L" on their multimeter or "60 PSI" on their compression tester. Don't scrap the car—check the wiring and the fuel!

Outside temperature sensor?

Happy new year everyone! I was wondering if anyone had experience with the bottom of the front doors not sitting flush with the car when closed? What could be the potential culprit, top door hinge, striker plate? Any ideas/info would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a picture from another forum as an example.

2020 porsche 992 4s cabriolet. Thank you for helping out

Does this help?

Thanks for the reply Loren. However, the ignition switch is not the problem. Its the headlight switch. The problem is I cant remove the vent. There are three screws holding it in place. Two outside by the door rail, and one hidden behind the light dial. If the dial cant be removed, the vent cannot be removed. -k

Model year? Number of pins in the connector? Color codes of the wires?

Hello All, Its been a while... My headlight switch is failing and I need to replace it. Not a big deal, it should be a 20 min. problem. But, part of the problem is that the dial refuses to pull out, so I cant remove it to get to the panel screw under it. I can think of no other way to remove it other then drilling a hole through the dial and then having to buy a new dial too. Anyone ever come across this problem and have a better solution? Thanks, -k 1998 986

Chances are your 20 plus year springs have softened and are already sagging a bit. Springs, swaybars and struts are a matched set - I would not mix them as you could produce unstable handling. Especially if you track the car. RoW 030 is fine for street and most track driving - you just have to be careful of large speed bumps on the street. PSS-9 (adjustable) Coilovers can supply suspension tuning and even lower for track days - but you would definitely want to raise it up for street.