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Hi has anybody used this stuff in their car? It gets very good reviews online and YouTube videos.. Thing is.. I'm in the UK and over here when you take your car to the garage to get the aircon recharged, they use a premix system that puts in the refrigerant and the pag oil to the correct quantity. It's a big machine that they plug onto your AC system and you can't intervene to add anything. So I'd like to look at using this Cool Ox.. but the internet is saying for a 987.1, the correct amount of oil should be 195 ml. So currently my car is charged up with the refrigerant and presumably the right amount of oil. I've purchased an oil/dye injector that you can connect to the low pressure valve.. but I read that it's not a good idea to put too much oil in your AC system. So let me see if I can explain what I'm asking here... What would be the way to go about this.. would You just put the additive in as well as the 195ml of PAG (.. meaning the Cool Ox would not actually count towards the amount of oil already in there, presumably because it will go to work and be used up coating the metal surfaces), or do you add it INSTEAD of the PAG oil, or would you makeup the 195 ml from both the PAG oil AND Cool Ox..? I hope I've explained that ok... Thanks very much in advance.

Solution found ! Went over to SMS in Huntington Beach. Branden took a light switch out of another Boxster and tested it in my car. Sure enough, it was the switch. Also learned how easy the light switch comes out. Ive ordered a replacement from Pelican. Free shipping…. Link to https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/87-ELEC-Headlamp_Switch/87-ELEC-Headlamp_Switch.htm

Thx! My case is that my car is not MOST, it was analog Bose (MY02 Turbo). So, I was considering using the MOST box to supply any of the available options in the market: Trioma (russian, cheapest), Audison (apparently made by Mobridge) and Mobridge itself. All are expensive but I've spent a lot of money in HiFi, cars, booze and XXXX (redacted) so it would be just a bit more of that 😁 Will check the cable for continuity as well.

Maybe this doesn't quite answer your question because a) it's dark outside now, and b) I don't fancy the grief of pulling my HU out to check - but: My CDC-4 lights up when powered but not connected, My Bose amplifier lights up when powered but not connected, my Mr12Volt bluetooth / USB / SD / Line in interface lights up when powered but not connected, and; My PCM2 used to light up when powered but not connected. I would deduce from this (and the light read through the MOST technical specification 🤓) is that the MOST box supplied with the PCCM+ must light up, otherwise it isn't transmitting on the network and will in fact cause the entire network to fail (all signals pass through, and are replicated by, every device on the loop). Check the connection from the HU to the MOST unit is actually connected and seated properly (without sounding too patronising). If that isn't it then there is a setting in one of the hidden menus to turn MOST off, this might cut power to the box, check this isnt switched off too. You'll need to (very) long press "Version Info" to get the menu up. Failing that, give the vendor a nudge and see if they can spot you a replacement MOST unit. I think they have their own part number so I would suspect Porsche can provide the unit by itself. I do get some information in the MOST row of that screen though. I'd have remembered if it was blank. I can't necessarily speak for sound quality over TOSLINK, I just left mine with MOST as it was easy from an integration perspective. Fundamentally it should be fine as it's capable of linear PCM signal and the iphone over USB connection is also I think PCM and generally regarded as pretty much lossless. You do however have an electrical to optical conversion at the HU, then optical-electrical-signal conversion-electrical-optical in your MOST/TOSLINK convertor, then a conversion back from optical to electrical - how good this circuitry is on the HU, MOST to TOSLINK converter, or your amp when it comes to packet loss and jitter could be a bit of an unknown. The only brand name MOST to TOSLINK I could find when I went through the same thought process was an Audison one which was big dollar (how much of that is just Hi-Fi tax, I dont know).

The two red wires are taps for my back up camera and dash cam….

On my ‘06 987, the fog lights switch will not turn on the fog lights, nor do the little lights by the switch I tested the Fuses 5 and 7 on the top row, they are good. Somewhere, I read that a faulty headlight leveling sensor could do this ?? What is this ? Lastly, will the PWIS detect the problem ?

To anyone who installed a PCCM+ in a MOST 996/986, when you initially attached the MOST box, could you see red light inside the socket when the radio powered up? I have no red light shinning at all. And, for anyone who has currently such a setup, can you check whether the MOST version number shows up in the version info screen? For comparison, I'm attaching a photo of my version info screen, MOST version empty. It appears the PCCM+ does not detect the MOST box. I read about a lot of cases where the MOST box was DOA, I'm wondering if I have another such case. My car is non-MOST and am not going to use it initially at leat but given I have an aftermarket amp with a Toslink input (and only speaker-level inputs, no line-level) I was thinking about getting a MOST to Toslink converter and ensure a fully digital path to the amp. The way it will be now, the PCCM+ converts the iPhone digital stream to analog, amplifies it to speaker level and then it goes down the line to the amp, where it will be digitised again, processed by the DSP stage, converted back to analog and amplified again and finally sent to the speakers. So, I was definitely considering using a fully digital path but that requires a working MOST output. So, can someone please check their "Version Info" screen and see if their MOST shows a version or is also empty, despite working fine?

my ABS pump was not sending fluid to one whee,l I verified the pump the aluminum casing had one of the holes clogged or something I was not getting a drop of fluid out of one hole. I went ahead and ordered a used part from Ebay now my question is. Should I remove the manifold from the old pump and put in the new manifold and use the original electronics from the car or can I just put in the whole new pump? If I just put in the new (to Me) complete pump do I have to reprogram it or something? I know I have to bleed it but do I have to do anything else? I saw one guy on YouTube say that he is using the original computer so he does not need to program anything, is this true?

Thank You !!

It looks like an air bag sensor but the air bag sensor doesn't fit either.

Try 5048

I hope this is the right way to do this. I need a radio code for a 2002 boxster CDR 220 Serial # 15004215 Thanks

not sure if its taboo to post other forums here but i found this super useful and was hard to find: The Definitive 986/996 Clutch / Power Steering Coupler - Union - Connector Thread - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Boxster & Boxster S (986) Forum - The Definitive 986/996 Clutch / Power Steering Coupler - Union - Connector Thread - After fighting issues with connector leaks at the clutch and power steering unions over the past year I have learned a lot. Much is NOT known (or not...

Hey all, should these just slide on to the hardline? I'm having trouble understanding how these fit and hold on to the hardline. Some threads show that there is a black retaining clip - does that come with these part numbers?

Hey Mark I have the same issue with a no crank/no start with the same codes. My CAN Comfort off was a corroded split point under the passenger seat on the B pillar. That fixed my CAN comfort OFF code. I still had my 1826: Steering Angle Sensor Terminal 30 Power Supply which had perfectly power and ground including the 15 (which is ignition on). I also have no codes in the Kessy and all authorization that I can see with the scan tool. My guessings are the steering angle sensor is the issue or the kessy is the issue. I have to say my friend has the same cayenne and I replicated the code 1826: Steering Angle Sensor Terminal 30 Power Supply. And his cayenne is still starting. So the only thing that still is not working is the Kessy. Did you find a solution what it was? I hope Kessy because I am ordering one

Reply to this OLD thread, I have the GIAC K24 Hitachi maf file, Evo stage 4+, runs perfect. About 3 years back I called about the upgrade to the A28 file (like I was promised Back in the day) Was all set to convert but was told they could NOT do that anymore for some emission bull**** reason. Anyway it really pissed me off that even though they have the high HP files from years ago they will not do the promised (FREE) reflash to allow me to use the A28 setup. Anyway thats my story with GIAC my K24/hitachi runs flawless but just wanted more power, imho they should still do the old tunes to the ecu. Sad deal

Maybe if it could soak through the canvas to the inside of the glass but it is a two-space door with the opener in the centre. I will look at the ceiling just in case. Thanks for stopping in

Thank you, Loren. It looks like that shaft is held in place by what looks to be a snap ring that's labeled part 7. So perhaps the shaft will come out with some pressure? I tried prying on it a bit with a pry bar but decided I should wait until I can confirm that there isn't anything else holding it in place. I did see the section in the 101 projects book where they mention removing this shaft but they also remove a nut on the end of the flange before prying that shaft out. I don't see any nut on that diagram either so it looks to me like its just the snap ring holding it together. I think I'll try prying on it with a bit more force and see if I can get it to pop out. I'll report back if I can get it out.

Item 13 is the radial shaft seal. (click the image to enlarge it)

Garage door opener?

I have a 2001 Boxster S with the 6-speed transmission and it's had a small transmission/differential leak that appears to be coming from the driver's side main shaft. This is the shaft that comes out of the trans/diff and has a flange on it that connects to the axel. How do I remove this shaft and get access to the bad seal? I've seen other instructions that include removing a nut or bolt in the middle of the flange but mine does not seem to have either (see pic below.) Thank you!

Freezing cold morning but backing out of my garage I found a perfectly straight stripe of oil down the center of my windshield on the inside. It must have been thin enough to run down from the top all the way to dashboard, and wiping with a rag it smeared like oil or grease. I am thinking hood latch but what could make a drip like that and why now?

My leak was from a headlamp washer hose. Just from trying the washer it drained the whole tank. Being too lazy to remove the front bumper I just cut it and capped the ends. Yours looks like dripping from the tank so maybe the seal where the pump installs.

of course i understand. different people, different problems, different wishes and for sure some strange ideas like you have explained.

No problem, some posts don't get answered for a simple reason: Neither form members nor staff are familiar with the particular subject, like swapping electrical or electronic components from different year or models. While we have seen a lot of unusual things over the years, like trying to transplant a 996 Mezger turbo engine into an early Boxster, I would be the first to say we haven't seen absolutely everything, and for the sake of fidelity and technical accuracy, sometimes we simply do not have a functional answer. 😉