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JFP in PA

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JFP in PA last won the day on August 17

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About JFP in PA

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  1. You are in a "crapshoot" situation. Technically, the presence of ANY metal in the engine that is ferrous in nature disqualifies the car for a retrofit by LN standards as it only takes one flake to start a series of cascading failures. Some people have gotten away with doing a retrofit on a questionable engine, others have not been as fortunate.
  2. That is the problem with this method: You only know when you are finished.
  3. We see this when the sensor has come into contact with the flywheel, buggering the head of the unit. Your only choice may be to grasp it with pliers and twist back and forth until it pops free. Normally, these things just pop right out as Duncan has noted.
  4. Using the pelican method is at the least rather risky as the set screws are pushing on the IMS shaft gear, which is only a press fit and can be dislodged by this method. If that happens, the engine has to come out and apart to fix it. There are reasons that no one else even suggests this approach.
  5. As long as the copper gasket is the correct diameter and thickness, it should work fine. For future reference, the factory aluminum gaskets cost less than a buck each, and are even cheaper if you buy them by the bag.
  6. If you do a search, someone else experienced something similar and it was a problem with the tool. SIR made good on it and replaced the tool, and the second one worked fine.
  7. Not a problem; as I mentioned, we see this regularly and everyone assumes it is the end of the world when it is just a little pebble.
  8. Welcome to RennTech Check for a small stone in between the rotor and metal splash shield; we see this fairly regularly.
  9. Some Porsche models use a Siemens DME that runs on odd software, limiting what the Durametric system, and many other systems, can do with them. Models with the more conventional DME work just fine with the Durametric system. With time, hopefully workarounds will come out, but that is the nature of these cars
  10. Hi mate,

     

    Hope you don't mind me messaging you directly for advice.. From reading your posts your:e obviously very familiar with Boxsters.

     

    You replied to one of my threads on 986forum about my gearbox issues.

     

    I can't work out what's going on with my clutch.

     

    A quick summary:

     

    Replaced clutch & had difficulty getting the box back in but eventually got there.

     

    Tested that everything worked before putting the undercarraige back in.

     

    !st time clutch depressed the slave cylinder **** itself. 

     

    Replaced slave cylinder & bled by using the rear left brake caliper & clear tube to slave cylinder. All fluide leaked from resiviour.

     

    Had my wife depress the brake as I opened both nipples & could see the moevement of fluid.

     

    About 10 pumps all the way down with nipples closed before brake pedal is released with both cluch pedal in & out.

     

    Still no joy.

     

    Im confused. Its a simple hydralic line......WTF is going on. Is there a valve somewhere or something?

     

    Any idea's?

     

    Cheers

     

    Eric

     

     

    1. aussieboxy
    2. JFP in PA

      JFP in PA

      OK, in order:

       

      (1) I am always circumspect when someone redoes the clutch and the clutch slave suddenly dies.  Usually, that is a sign that something (throw out bearing, fork, fork pivot, etc.) is not right inside the bellhousing., causing the slave to fail.  If this is the case, the new one will follow the old one into the trash can because the problem is not fixed.

      (2) I do not understand what your rear brake caliper has to do with bleeding your clutch.  While they share a common fluid reservoir (at the front of the car), the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems are otherwise totally separate. You should not be connecting the brake caliper to the slave cylinder for ANY reason.  If you don't have a pressure bleeding tool, you should be having your wife depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor while you open the slave bleeder to let the air out; repeating this process until no air shows up.

      (3) If you have bled the brake reservoir down to empty, you most likely have gotten air into the system, which is a major headache as you will now require the use of a Porsche specific (PST II, PIWIS, Durametric) scan tool to run the factory procedure to get the air out of the brake system.

       

      I seriously think you are in over your head here, and need to get the car to someone that understands them better.

    3. aussieboxy

      aussieboxy

      Thanks for your reply.

       

      I do have a Durametric so I'll look for the factory procedure to bleed the air out.

       

      Everything looked fine when replacing the clutch/gearbox. The trow out bearing was seated in the fork as it should be & a clutch alignment tool was used to centre the clutch. I've had the car for 15 years & do just about all work required myself & using the advice on forums when needed.

       

      I appreciate your advice.

       

      Cheers

       

      Eric

  11. Not easily. The way the system works, when the immobilizer sees the RFID pill in the key, it sends a signal to the DME, which then activates the fuel and ignition systems so the car will start. No signal, no DME response, and no start. As the DME is controlling the ignition timing, spark signal, and the fuel pump, you would need to jury rig multiple systems around the DME, but then you would have no control over ignition timing, idle speed control, etc., as these are all monitored and adjusted by the DME.
  12. You are between a rock and a hard place on this one. Without a functioning immobilizer, the DME will not let the car start; without a PST II or PIWIS unit, you cannot see if the two actually do match and communicate correctly. There simply is no simple work around for this as it is the way the car was designed.
  13. (1) No. If the hub bearing is bad, it would take a bit to cause uneven wear on the rotors. (2) Not necessarily. It all depends on how the rotor is rotated while in contact with the dial indicator. If the rotation does not take up any slack in the hub bearing, the rotor could appear to run true because the hub bearing is not loaded. (3) No. The hub bearing's are simply torqued to spec, which is quite a high value.
  14. We own multiple factory flywheel locking tools (for different applications) and none of them bind up or have threading issues; they all simply drop right in and the bolt easily threads in with two fingers. What year and model is the car you are working on? The SIR P253 only fits certain years. It is also a cam timing tool (used for cam allocation), not a cam holding tool (used when the cam cover is being removed), which is completely different.
  15. Welcome to Rennech.org The immobilizer is purposely designed not to be bypassed, as the DME requires a ”handshake” with it before starting. This is specifically designed this way to prevent theft. Problems with this system due to water getting to it during rain storms and due to blocked drains it a very common issue with these cars. Look at the immobilizer under the driver’s seat, if it shows signs of corrosion, or the small fuse in it is blown, you may need to either send it out for repair, or replace it. Replacing it is not a DIY proposition as it must be coded to the car with a PST II or PIWIS unit, and the unit is pricey, so hope it can either be cleaned up or repaired. Good luck.
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