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JFP in PA last won the day on May 20

JFP in PA had the most liked content!


About JFP in PA

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  1. Usually the best source for the Gibbs oil is on line, it pops up on sale from a number of vendors who also throw in free shipping. Check out the usual suspects: Amazon, Jegs, etc.
  2. M1 0W-40 is simply not the product that it once was. If I were you, I would take a very close looks at Joe Gibbs DT40, which is a 5W-40 with good ZDDP levels and excellent film strength. We are also not fans of Fram filters either for the same reasons; they are not as well made as they once were. I would take a look at the XP version of the NAPA filter, very well made, and readily available
  3. We have actually seen repeatable improvement in UOA's on cars going to the 160 stat along with the lower oil temps, demonstrating that the oil is happier running cooler. On base Boxsters, the combination of the 160 stat and larger "S" oil cooler showed significant improvements in oil life.
  4. Typically, we see 25-30F drop in oil temps with the low temp stats
  5. Just remember that the thermostat sets the minimum temperature the car will see in a steady state (read moving at reasonable speeds on the open road). Stuck in traffic, the car will slowly heat up from the steady state temps (usually around the low 170's F) to the temps where the fan kicks in, but will also cool back down to the steady state temps when the car gets moving again.
  6. It is always a good idea to include the year, model, and any modifications in such questions. And as you have retrieved codes, the exact codes would be useful as well.
  7. You have codes of overly rich conditions on both banks (1123 and 1125), and a code for the O2 sensor ahead of the main cat on the bank for cylinders 4-6 (P0150) either being short circuited or having lower than expected voltage. I would start with the P0150 code and check the harness and the sensor itself for a short, and the short could be the sensor itself.
  8. If you measure the line flare, you can actually get little rubber caps for a few cents each that are supposed to be for capping off unused vacuum lines that look neat and do an excellent job as well: But a screw in a hunk of rubber hose also does the same job....................
  9. We don't like to push hard objects like golf tees into the hard lines as they have unusual flare ends and you really do not want to deform them. Something soft, like hose, slipped over the line end is a better bet.............
  10. Yes, but they do not have to be fancy, just some correctly sized black rubber hose with a screw in one end to stop the leak. You need to prevent the system draining and air getting back up into the ABS/PSM control network, as this then needs the scanner to activate systems during a flush to get it back out. A little fore thought and some fifty cent fabricated plugs/caps will prevent major headaches.
  11. You are heading for a major headache. If you allow the brake system to drain of fluid, you will need a Porsche specific scan tool to get everything working again. You would be far better off to do one rubber line at a time, disconnecting and replacing with the braided lines. Once done, the entire system will need to be flushed to get the air out. If you are going to remove the calipers from the car, plan on fabricating some plugged rubber hose bits to cap off the car's hard line's while it is apart for the same reason.
  12. The Durametric system would be a good acquisition. The 986 and 987 similar in many ways, but the 987 will have some later variations, like greater use of CAN Bus technology, DFI, the 9A1 engine instead of the M96, and later electronics. The reason for a lack of information is that Porsche stopped publishing service manuals around 2004-2005, so there is not a lot in print. Good luck with your new car.
  13. It will. I'd suggest ordering a replacement.