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JFP in PA last won the day on November 24

JFP in PA had the most liked content!

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About JFP in PA

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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
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  1. You can tap the crimp down slightly to gain more clearance. The factory clamps use a standard clamp crimping tool, they just lay flatter.
  2. The 1999 996 Carrara would carry a 5.2.2 DME, not a 7.2. A 2000 would carry the 7.2 DME, but again would be subject to the issues mentioned earlier. You cannot simply swap DME's.
  3. The swap you are attempting is complicated; your 1999 car has a mechanical throttle, the 3.2 is an electronic throttle, the 3.2 uses different sensors and sensor communication protocols, if you have the factory alarm in the 99, it will not recognize the 7.2 DME, etc. You will need the 7.2 DME, the entire wiring harness from a 3.2 donor car, the throttle pedal assembly, and you will be doing some creative wiring to tie it all together. Your cooling system hard lines from the engine to the front of the car are a different size than the 3.2 uses, so you will need to either fabricate adaptors, or source the 3.2 hard lines, it also need the addition of the third forward radiator. Then you will need access to either a factory PST II or PIWIS computer to get your car to recognize the DME and visa versa. It is all doable, but it is also a lot of work. Good luck.
  4. I don't believe that is possible, the two DME's are physically different.
  5. I would agree. You only rarely find nothing has moved.
  6. You are going to need to use the 7.2 DME for the 3.2 engine, which may also require you switch to a later dash cluster as well, as the 2001 was already using CAN Bus technology.
  7. At a minimum, it is adjusted wrong; if an adjustment cannot fix it, the damage repair was done wrong..........good luck
  8. The lower one yes, the upper one is very restricted and I don't think you can get a tool on it assembled.
  9. Here is a photo of one of the shaft joints, you can see the bolt hole for the pinch bolt that secures it to the splined shaft ends:
  10. I am not sure the column joints are available as a sperate part, you would need to check with a dealer on that. There are two variant of the lower steering column where the joints are, V2 is for cars with PSM (it carries the steering angle sensor), V1 without PSM. V2 is available as a replacement shaft with both joints, as is V1. Replacing either requires removal of the entire steering column, which is a bear of a job. The joints a both ends of both variants also have a locking bolt that secures the joints to splined ends of the column and steering rack, these can come loose and create the issue you are seeing. You can quickly check the rack by seeing how much the steering wheel moves back and forth without the car running, there should be very little free movement. Only check this after looking at the shaft joints above; if the shaft joints are loose or damaged, you will appear to have a bad rack when you really do not. Good luck.
  11. I would look at two things: The steering column has to u-joints in it that can come loose and/or wear: The second thing I would look at is the amount of play or backlash in the steering rack, which should be very minimal:
  12. JFP in PA

    Cam Steel Expansion Plug Blew

    Mike, he is dealing with the small metal plugs in the ends of the cams blowing out, not the green cam cover plugs.

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