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Philip54

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About Philip54

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    Contributing Member

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Houston
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 Porsche 996
  • Future cars
    None
  • Former cars
    None
  1. Thanks. I will remove the door panel and have a look at that pin shaft.
  2. I cannot lock the door any more. The key rotates freely with no resistance. Any suggestions on how to fix the lock? Thanks
  3. Creekman, thanks for the update. I have not yet had the A/C doors replaced. I have been travelling on business and I have not used the car much. I have gone so far as re-covering the frames of my spare doors with new foam.
  4. The battery of my car has been disconnected for about 2 weeks. Are there any issues to be expected when I reconnect the battery and start the car again? Also, on one of the electrodes I cannot get the specified torque. The 2 lugs on the wire don't stay parallel. Anything that I can do besides replacing the wire? Thanks
  5. Thanks, Ahsai. For some reason I had missed Fig.5. I have figured it out now.
  6. Thanks, Ahsai. But I am not familiar with this alternator and what is on the back side of it. Where is the connection point and what are its shape and approximate dimensions so that I can finalize the geometry of the hook? Thanks
  7. I would like to do the tests on alternator and cables described in a post of Ahsai on June 25, 2013. Some of the tests involve connecting into the alternator output called ‘A’ in the post. I have trouble in locating ‘A’ on the back side of the alternator using an inspection mirror and I am not sure about how to make a reliable connection into it with the test cable. The post mentions the use of a J shaped hook attached to an insulated wire, but I don't know what the connection point looks like and where it is. I am also concerned about the risk of causing a short. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Thanks
  8. Thanks, Ahsai. I guess the back-up battery could still be used to travel a little further, if necessary, if its use does not cause any issues.
  9. Thanks for your reply. The vendor I was referring to sells jumper cables that include a fuse that are used to charge the car battery for 10 minutes. According to the vendor the car can then be started using the car battery. The vendor does not recommend to start the car directly from the back-up battery. In any case, my question was more related to being able to drive back home, if the alternator fails and the car battery is low, using a back-up battery connected through the cigarette lighter (with minimal electrical load, just the lights, if it is night). Does that seem possible? What would be a fuse size that would ensure sufficient protection? I assume that the car has its own fuse to protect the cigarette lighter cable. Is that correct? Thanks
  10. I am considering keeping a jump starter portable external battery in the car. I am wondering if this battery could be used, when connected to the car electrical system through the cigarette lighter socket, to power the car electrical system to allow me to drive back home in case the alternator fails and the car battery is low. Vendors claim that the car could even be started using the external battery connected through the cigarette lighter socket. Is there any risk of damaging any car electrical system components doing this? Thanks
  11. Joe, Thanks for tip. I will give it a try before I go for the foam replacement.
  12. Mitch, I will post the information on the foam, if I go for the replacement. I would like to give a try to the idea proposed by DBJoe996 even if it did not work for you. As far as the cost of the repair, I believe that if the normal procedure, which involves removing the dashboard, is used, the cost will be well above $1,000. If the airbox is accessed from the trunk only, I don't have any idea about what the cost could be. But I personally doubt that a dealer would go that way.
  13. The airbox door metal frames have large holes on them. Without the foam the air goes through the doors doesn't matter if they are closed or open. When the foam starts deteriorating, initially you just get pieces of foam through the vents. Eventually when most of the foam is gone, the A/C heater system stops working properly. Access to these doors is difficult. A lot of parts need to come out to get to the doors. Because of this it is important to select a reliable repair method for the doors, whether you use foam or not.
  14. I need to replace the foam of the flap doors of the airbox of my car. The existing foam has deteriorated and is coming out of the dash vents. A common problem on 996s that has been discussed on this site in other occasions. After getting the doors out and removing what is left of the existing foam from the door metal frames, I would like to use 1/8” thick close cell foam and mylar adhesive tape for the replacement. I am considering foam with the following specifications: Foam A Weather-Resistant Neoprene/EPDM/SBR Foam Foam, but not adhesive, meets ASTM D1056 2A2, UL 94HF1, and UL 94HBF. Material has a fine cell textured finish and does not have a skin. Adhesive is rubber based and has a temperature range of –10° to 150° F Weather and abrasion-resistant foam rubber Foam B Weather-Resistant Ultra-Conformable Vinyl Foam, Sheet, Ultra-Smooth Texture Material Vinyl Foam Cell Type Closed Texture Ultra Smooth Thickness 1/8" Pressure to Compress 25% 5 psi Backing Type Plain Hardness Extra Soft Temperature Range -30° to 160° F Density 9 lbs./cu. ft. RoHS Compliant I would appreciate any comments on my proposed method and suggestions on whether to use foam A or foam B (or other types of foam). Many thanks
  15. Thanks. After confirming that the problem is with the window regulator I will buy the OEM part.
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