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ciaka

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Everything posted by ciaka

  1. I plan to remove intake to pd coolant leak that recently occured on my cayenne turbo. Have few questions and advice from those in the know. Thank you very much. My CTT had coolant pipes done already and replaced with the metal ones. Yet, another coolant leak happened so deciding to do on my own since mechanic obviously either did job wrong, or neglected to tell me of some other part that fails routinely, and now I have to take this apart again. 1. Do I need to get new intake seals (two of them) whenever removing intake on cayenne turbo 2. In addition to cooling pipes, what other pipes routinely fail under the intake, so I can keep an eye out. 3. Are there parts I can get that have longer life, so I dont have to redo yet again. 4. Any ohter advice while doing this for my car (tips, hints, items worth changing while you are there, etc) 5. Heard there are some smaller pipes that are plastic but fail, and can be purchased metal (not sur if t-pipe or angled, etc), but if you have info withg pn, url, I will really appreciate it. thank you.
  2.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY:Porsche logo door courtesy light swap. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  3. This is probably the easiest mod you can do for the car. I am actually surprised it came out really nice. You end up having a nice Porsche logo projected on the ground, directly below the doors, as you enter the car. Total cost was $28 dollars shipped, and maybe 5 minutes of time to install. Enjoy.
  4.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Steering Knuckle / Wheel carrier removal for bearing replacement. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  5. Before I started, I called around and found a shop that has a press and many adapters, so they can press out wheel hub from wheel carrier, then press out the bearing, then press in new bearing and finally press in old wheel hub. Shop I found did it for me, charged me 20 bucks, 20 minutes. Below shows you what you need to remove to get to the wheel carrier, so you can take it to shop and have bearing replaced. Hope this helps out. You would want to do this if you notice noises in car while driving, such as rythmic tapping (without any vibration), or general much louder noise while driving. These are typical symptoms of bearing going bad (balls being shaved a little, creating noises while driving). In my case, I heard general increased road noise, and tapping that increased as speed was increased. While driving in tight circles on road, noticed the tapping became much more pronounced while turning left. While turning right, the tapping would almost disappear. Therefore, since turning left puts more load/weight onto right side axle, I deduced the right or passenger side needs bearing replacement. Axle was not compromised, in great shape, so I did not replace it. Some replace both axle and bearing. Since my axle was stuck to the carrier, i had to use propane torch from walmart, to heat inner perimeter of hub, then used 8-10lbs sledge to bang onto axle, to separate from wheel carrier. I used old spindle nut as shield for axle, so I can reuse the axle, with new purchased spindle nut. Replacing entire wheel carrier will cost you about 1000 bucks. Buying bearing for 100, paying about 20 for a shop to replace bearing itself, and doing work on your own will save you about 2000 bucks on this job. Good luck and chime in with comments if needed.
  6. 03-06 Cayenne Transfer Case Fluid Change Although easy, still see people asking for steps. So here it goes. Each pic has comments in order. Easy to do, takes about 15 minutes. Hope this helps someone else. Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Maintenance Submitted 03/30/2013 09:39 PM Updated 09/27/2016 07:05 PM  
  7.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Steering Knuckle Bearing Repacking. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  8. Before you install new bearing into the knuckle, it is recommended you repack the grease. Why? The oem grease is about 200˚F. Repacking with high pressure and high temp (800˚F - CV-2), will ensure max protection. This will be part of my diy for replacing bearing, but making this separate in case folks do on their own too.
  9. My guess, without diagnostics, you may have air shocks leaking air and they do not get raised high enough to tell car it is at proper level for driving. Regardless of mileage, rubber starts leaking. Put your car into normal mode, and see if it appears low (front and/or back wheels very close to well edges). If yes, definitely shocks. You will need to open hood, unscrew the triangle covers that cover shock tops on each side, use soapy water to find if top of shocks/connectors are leaking air. Bubbles will tell you they are. I have DIY threads on air suspension which you should find and read to help understand. Also, if this is not air shock related, it may be PDCC related. Do you have messages on cluster with more detail? Hope this gives you starting point. Thanks.
  10. Anyone know what the part numbers are for the guide pins, that get screwed into calipers? They are what the front pads travel on (the pins go through the holes in the brake pads). If rear ones exist too, I would love the PNs. And if you know of a place to buy, man, you will make my day.
  11. IMO (and it is, my opinion only), the latest rev of the Panamera looks like an older audi, not popping at all. Removed anything that could make it stand out, and made it criticism safe. Poor choice IMO, and a negative move. I now like the prev gen look much more.
  12.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: PDK Transmission Factory Reset Procedure. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  13. If you buy your car pre owned, or if it went into limp mode, or you just think you have some quirks in it, one way to diagnose or pd if you have issues, is to try reset the PDK itself. The car learns driver habits over time. After a few years, a new owner may have different driving style, and this reset will help the new owner get car into factory condition, so it can learn new owner habits and hopefully be a better experience for the new driver. Below pic is from Porsche, and gives 4 steps on how to reset PDK to factory mode. Good luck. Hope it helps someone here.
  14. Does anyone have info on what goes wrong when filler door becomes loose? Observed it in one car I just drove, and when looked up online, there is a lot of people chiming in that they have issues with opening or loose fuel door. When I pick up the car i want to make sure I check it and address if it needs work. Thank you.
  15.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial DIY: Panamera Oil Change. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  16. I did not bother to do a DIY for oil change, because there are some vids out there on how to perform this work. Below is a link to one of these videos, will walk you through the complete oil change. Items I used: - Oil: Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W40 - purchased 10 quarts, will use about 9 or so - Oil Filter: Mahle OX 254 D4 - replace this part every time - Drain plug: 900 219 020 31 - if you are gentle and do not screw up the hex hole in the plug, you can re use the plug. Be gentle, get proper tools (8mm hex/allen wrench) - Drain plug gasket: 900 123 106 30 - put in a new one with every oil change. If oil starts leaking here, you will waste an hour or two to replace just this part, plug oil cost. All for $0.50 savings. There are magnetic oil drain plugs out there. I may try one at some point to see how much metallic particulate collects on it. Not today though. Below is a video for complete oil change. After oil change, make sure to reset the oil change service interval, by following instructions in this DIY - Durametric users. Thanks. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwHgrbN5TaM
  17. I have questions about the auto stop/start feature on the Panamera. When it is enabled, if car stops at a stop light, etc, the engine automatically cuts out (leaving electronics on while engine is off). When light turns green, driver lifts foot off brake, and engine restarts allowing driver to resume driving. Isnt continuous start/stop of the engine, many times during any routine driving trip to work/home, a bad thing for the engine? Typically, starting is one of the more harsh things done to an engine. Am I incorrect in this train of thought? If continuous stopping and re-starting is not good for the car, why would a driver want to be using this feature (other than uninformed drivers thinking they are cutting down on pollution)? Thank you for your enlightenment.
  18.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Panamera Air Shock Replacement (Front). Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  19.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Removing Stuck Ignition Coil Rubber Boot. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  20. Here is something that I think will help many here. One of the maintenance tasks I did was replacing coils and plugs. Easy enough. After replacing the parts, and while tightening the eTorx ignition coil bolts (aluminum), I was not careful and snapped bolt on cylinder 3. BTW, its 3ft/lbs +90˚ (but with SMALL wrench, not 3/8) Since coils sit there pretty well, I left it as is until I got the bolt and had time to remove/replace (I do have some tips for removing the snapped part of the bolt - really easy actually - will post in another thread). Anyways, today was the day. I removed the covers, exposed wires, removed all bolts, then pulled on the ignition coil #3. Would not budge initially. Applied more force, and started wiggling. Eventually coil started moving and popped up. To my surprise, only the coil came up, the rubber boot got stuck on the ceramic part of spark plug. It is not coming out. Used needle nose pliers to lift it. Nope. Used a 90K sharp tool to poke hole in boot to lift - Nope as well. Twisted. Rotated. Pushed. Pulled. Prayed. Nothing worked. Contemplated torching. Good thing did not do this one..lol. Then, thought, why not think like a spark plug? What if a rubber boot got stuck on me? How would it get stuck on me? What would cause that? Once stuck, what would work if I was in a tight space? Then it hit me. Need something to lubricate the rubber to help ease rubber off the plug. To put the lube between plug and boot, I would need something to separate them. So while looking in my junk drawer of tool box, found a used metal band clamp, with a thin long end. Perfect to slide into the plug hole, right next to the plug ceramic, and try separate the rubber. Took the band out, flattened out and with a little lube, managed to separate one area, removed, inserted again just a bit over to one side, so I can separate another bit. Continued for a little until I thought I have decent amount of rubber separated and lubed (thought about 75% around the circle). Grabbed my small and long needle nose pliers, pulled on the rubber, and the whole thing came up without any effort at all. Total job after I got the idea - about 5 minutes. Before that, I watched videos, and many showed all kinds of fancy bits/sockets, made tools, to try budge the rubber. Typical job about 3 hours. I am sure glad I thought of this and want to pass on to others, so they don't waste 3 hours of their life, trying to move a small piece of black rubber out of a small hole. Good luck and let me know what you think or if you have additional comments.
  21. After doing some work on my PTT, i put this DIY together to help others replace their own shocks. Ended up replacing both front shocks. Then, one of replaced shocks was not working. Once I figured that out (info about how to diagnose is in the air suspension info thread), company overnighted another replacement (I pre paid, and they refund money afterwards -takes about 2 weeks after they get shock back). Doing first shock replacement took about 4 hours with pics, breaks, etc. Doing subsequent shock replacements (other side and replace of defective shock), took about 1.5 hrs including wheel attach. My advice, do not be intimidated. Not difficult. Keep your eyes on the prize - new car with new suspension working perfect. Then do the job. You will enjoy lots of money saved. People take their cars to dealer to have this done, have posted bills of $9000 plus tax for replacing front air shocks. My price for doing this myself: - $375 for driver shock (pre paid 525, got refund $150 on used core charge) - $375 for passenger shock (again pre paid 525 and got 10 back after I sent old core back) - $120 for valve block (decided to replace as Durametric does not have capability to test individual valves to see which is broken or not. - About 12 hours of time spread over few days (you can do the whole thing in one weekend no problem - one day). Of course, my time included taking pics, organizing things, doing troubleshooting so I can have proper write up about air suspension (separate thread - search for air suspension info), etc. Your time will be likely about 8 to 10 hours max, since you already have this all laid out to follow. Money wise, I spent $870. Compared to $9000 bill, that is $8,130 SAVINGS!!! - Before tax! Think what you can do with that money!! Of course, if you feel you have too much after DIY, you can paypal me some - I will not complain. REPLACEMENT PARTS I USED: Rebuild Master Tech shocks. Look online, make sure you get the proper year and model and side you need. Not sure if there are other vendors doing this. Cayennes used to have Arnott, but checking I did not see any Panamera air shocks. OTHER INFO: While you are doing this work, it is good to think ahead, if you need any other work that will save lots of time, if done at same time as air shock replacement. - Upper control arms (see my DIY) - if you have clunking over bumps, these are likely culprits - Lower control arms (see my DIY) - if you have clunking these can be reason too - Sway bar bushings - if you have squeaking coming from car over bumps these are likely the reason. You can lube them to see if helps, but once all this stuff is being worked on, bushings are just a small addition - Other brake jobs, etc in the area. Do not rush, take time to do correctly. Hope this helps you fine folks. Follow each pic as it is numbered. Last pic has hardware torque info.
  22. Cardan Shaft (aka Drive Shaft) Replacement I had a chance to work on replacing my cardan shaft, as the one in the car gave me the famous symptoms of 'midget in console banging with a hammer'. Important things to remember: - replace flex disc at same time (worn out shaft bearing will cause wobble that in turn stresses the rubber disc out when you drive - I inspected mine and there were cracks when looking closely) - take your time, no rush - follow each step in sequence - read each step completely before doing the work for that. There are things that will speed your work once you are aware of them. If you do not normally work on cars, no problem. Expect about half a day worth of work. If you work on cars already and are a DIY person, expect about 2 hrs worth of work. Expected cost savings by DIY: about $1200 - $1400 total. REPLACEMENT PARTS INFO: 1. Drive shaft - purchased from www.coloradodriveshaft.com - cost: $475 including $100 charge for core (you get that money back after you return your old/bad part). Nice thing is that they provide a pre-paid and pre-addressed label for UPS, which you put on the shipping box you receive to ship old part back, and they do hi speed balance the shafts as well. They state that their shafts are much sturdier than originals, and will not fail, but I have no way to verify that. 2. Flex disc - purchased from ebay - cost: $90 shipped. 3. Rear drive shaft bolts - I did not replace mine with new ones, just made sure to tighten them up nice (tightened to 10 ft-lbs more than in spec)...seemed all fine, even with their coating. Service manual calls for replacement of these bolts though, so the call is yours. I hope this will help the next one with this issue. QUESTIONS/ANSWERS SECTION: 1. Q: A question - was there any concern with centering the center bearing in the tunnel? Porsche has a special tool for this (basically looks like a big foam block the fits the tunnel and the driveshaft to make sure it's running true and straight. My plan if I need to do this is to mark the location of the mounting plate under the car, and reinstall it in the same spot (and bolt up the bearing assembly to the same spot on that plate.) A: I address porsche tool (to align bearing) in picture 11 and 12. If you have the tool, great. If not, you can still do it. Without tool, you have to ensure that you bolt the bearing to bracket as the last thing in this DIY. You make sure you affix the bracket back into same location you took it out of (making marks around edges and bolts). Tighten the 6 bolts to spec (in pics). Then you put in the two bolts for the bearing but make sure they are nice and very loose. Then, reach up into the space and move the shaft and bearing in up/down then left/right motions (move it in all directions). Observe where the bearing settles by noting where the bolts stop on bracket. Do this a few times and you will see that they will settle same spot. Remember, the bracket is what aligns the bearing up/down. The porsche tool does not align that. Also, after you have tightened down the rear and front of shaft, and after the bracket is in, the only way for the bearing bushing to go is sideways. Since it has 2 bolts, the sideways motion is not that much. By reaching and moving it up, you allow the bushing to settle in its natural position (least strain). After you note where the bolts rest, take a flat screwdriver and mark the bolt positions on the bracket (do this so that during torquing down you do not affix to improper position - important as this is where most screw ups will occur). After marking the bolt positions, take your socket and gently start tightening both bolts few turns each. When they are snug, make sure they align with the marks you made and continue to torque down until they no longer move out of their positions. Then just torque down to spec (in pics) and you are done. Bearing aligned and job finished. Thanks again. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are. Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/12/2013 10:31 PM Updated 10/03/2016 10:19 PM  
  23.   This is the support topic for the DIY tutorial Panamera Upper Control Arms Replacement. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.  
  24. If your car is making clunking, squeaking noises while going over bumps, it is very likely that your upper and/or lower control arm bushings are damaged. It is very hard to determine if upper control arms are damaged, because the bushings are mounted in such way, which prevents inspection (bolts/chassis are in the way of visual inspection). Rest assured, if you are clunking over bumps, and your upper control arms are more than 60k miles old, it is time to replace them. Some have reported these arms damaged even before 60k miles. Once you determine it is the upper control arms, this DIY will give you steps to do this at home, and save some good $$$. You can get some good beverage with all the savings you do, by doing the work yourself. Follow each step in order, each picture contains description of the process. I recommend you read the entire thread, to ensure you understand the whole process, and estimate time involvement. First time replacing the upper control arm? I estimate it will take you about 4 hours per side. Subsequent replacements will be significantly shorter, about 1.5 hours per side (then you will be an expert). Take your time, dont rush, put some nice music on in the garage, and stay with it. Do not panic and complete the whole job. You can do this no problem! Good luck and enjoy the hundreds you will save on the job. REPLACEMENT PART INFO: My replacement part: Lemfoerder (Porsche OEM supplier). Upper control arm Part No: 970 341 051 10 Part cost estimate: $230-$260/side . Part includes nuts for ball joint, side bolt nuts (2) Now, on to the DIY:
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