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  3. Thank you Reachme, that is an excellent suggestion. I'll check that out immediately and report back.
  4. Are you getting W Lead (Code 49 on the alarm ECU)? If the problem is that intermittent and only can occur in dangerous highway situations....quit driving the car till you can recreate it and safely diagnosis it in the safety of your driveway with a Autel, Duramatic, etc. If do you something and it just starts back up.. How can you confirm it was your repair or just time related to a magic restart? Since you can't, you must fail the part ala Dave and Hal From 2001 Space odyssey . (PS if you live near Houston I could help you with my Autel scan tool diagnosis all of the systems but beyond that I would buy one if I were you and plug it in and drive it till it happens). Also you can buy a cheap obd2 elm style bluetooth scan tool for your phone....and with Torque app just read basic info like fuel and ecm related stuff))
  5. It's fun to see after nearly a decade my original procedure is still going strong...if not hard to find! Wish I had all those old school files presented in a way better! I miss my 986 and hope to be back in one in the near future...just hope I don't need to cut open the air box again!
  6. Hi Steve, I had a Boxster with these symptoms exactly, start fine in the morning, warm up and then idle roughly, give it some throttle and seemed to run fine. On the odd occasion it wouldn't do it at all. I think it turned out to be the AOS, if I remember correctly you can effectively blank off the AOS, there is a tube coming from it which you can disconnect and then blank off both ends to test it, not sure if its the same on the 911. I know that this might not explain the codes though. Only other thing that might be worth a go would be to clean/disconnect the MAF, but again not sure how this could relate to codes. Hope you get it sorted.
  7. The code was correct and the radio is working fine, thanks. The contacts on the back of the radio must not have been making good contact, so the buttons 6 to 0 were not working. thanks for your help
  8. Having recently gone through a fuel pump replacement and a crankshaft position sensor replacement, I suggest going through the diagnosis process. Check the fuel pressure, check the fuel pump relay, short the relay and confirm the fuel pump is running. As a first timer for a fuel pump replacement, I had no idea what I was listening for but I can tell you that you can hear it whirl without any difficulty when it runs. You can also apply 12v directly to the pump to confirm if the pump is the issue. In my case, the CPS was not the problem, it was the fuel pump, but not having gone through it before all signs seemed to point to CPS. No tach jumps is more indicative of CPS but I would also make sure the fuel pump runs and is providing pressure before assuming it is the CPS. I use durametric and tried several generic obd2 readers with no luck. I’m not aware of any other good options for Porsche’s.
  9. Nothing special, jack, stands, torque wrench, 18 and 13 mm sockets, locktite. I supported the engine by jacking up the engine carrier while swapping out the mounts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. New to the forum; 2000 Boxster (engine assembled in 1998; transmission code ends in 002 and is a topic for another day!). Engine recently started cutting out driving home from work. The engine cuts out with no warning (no 'roughing' etc). When it cuts out, it won't restart. Hours later, engine magically starts again and runs like nothing ever happened until cutting out again. The behavior is identical whether idling in my driveway or driving. It doesn't seem to be temperature related. The way the engine cuts out with no additional symptoms or warnings, I doubt it's a fuel pump issue? Could be a clogged fuel filter, but after a while the car starts up again with no apparent issues making me doubt it is a fuel filter issue? Crankshaft position sensor: when cranking my car the tachometer stays at 0 until the engine starts. So does my other car. I see several posts that the tachometer should show a reading as the engine cranks before but before it starts. This is not the case for my two cars. People also post that if it is a CPS problem, then the engine should start again right away? I would expect the fuel supply to be cut off if the CPS doesn't signal to the ECU? Could my problem be a failed CPS even though it doesn't seem to be temperature related? My passenger side door lock is acting up. The car has been giving the characteristic 'double-honk' when locking and unlocking for a while and the window doesn't stay down the tiny bit it's supposed to when the door is open. It was on the list to fix this month. Shortly before the engine started cutting out, the 'double-honk' started sounding while driving and often. Could the problem be alarm/lock related? Shortly before the engine started cutting out, I had a few instances of the key not turning easily in the ignition switch. I read that many weird issues can arise from a faulty ignition switch; I haven't found descriptions of engine stalls though. Could a faulty ignition switch be the problem? I do have a P0442 error code; have had it for a long time though. It comes and goes, and a fuel vent replacement is also on my list of upcoming fixes. I doubt that it has relevance to engine problem (?), but full disclosure. No other error codes on my OBDII. Any other suggestions? Lastly, if I wanted a computer that could read/reset everything to help diagnose the problem, what would be options within reasonable budgetary constraints? Any computers that would also work for my other car (Mercedes Benz CLK350)? Thank you for your time!
  11. I had noticed the additional inaccessible blend door with the same problem and just left it as it was. Thought it would prove too difficult to try taping it while still inside the duct. As for the top of the pivot point, I left that hole there, too. It was in a covered area that won't be seen. After I buttoned everything up I thought I should've maybe taken a small black PVC cap from Home Depot and made some cuts to fit over this hole with some adhesive to give it a cleaner appearance, so that's an idea for you to try. That's more than likely what I'll attempt if I ever get back in there. Hope the rest works out fine for you.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Honest advise. Fair prices. Exceptional service. Expert technicians. A clean shop filled with beautiful cars. A true dealership alternative. These are just a few of the things you will find when you visit Salerno Motorsports. Don’t forget, we also BUY | SELL | CONSIGN LUXURY | SPORT | EXOTIC automobiles through our dealership, Autobahn Autos.
  14. Possible fault causes: - Electric fault in control line between DME and ignition coil - Spark plug connector faulty - Ignition coil faulty - Spark plug faulty - Secondary air - Mechanical or electrical fault in injection valve - Valve seat or valve faulty - Valve lift control faulty - Exhaust system blocked/narrowed - Foreign bodies in intake tract, this can lead to sporadic misfires on changing cylinders.
  15. Hello, My 2008 C4S (60k miles and fully serviced) has been giving me an issue for the last few weeks, prior to that no related problems at all. It started a few weeks ago with an amber engine management light coming on around 2 minutes after starting the car from cold. It is fine at startup with the engine running nicely, but after arouind a couple of minutes the light comes on and the engine starts to run lumpy BUT when i give it any increase in accelerator, it becomes smooth and runs perfectly again - it just seems to be very unhappy with my foot off the accelerator and the engine at idle where it drops to around 500-600rpm and runs lumpy with the engine management light coming on. If i carry on driving and the engine gets 'up to temperature' then the idle comes back to it's regular 900rpm and it ticks over perfectly. I have my own code reader and the car was showing the following codes; P0040 - Oxygen sensors upstream of cat. conv. interchanged (Signal implausible) P0300 - Misfire summation fault (exceeds limit value) P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfiring (exceeds limit value) P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfiring (exceeds limit value) P0303 - Cylinder 2 misfiring (exceeds limit value) So, based on previous research on this issue, I changed all 6 coil packs, all 6 spark plugs and all 4 oxygen sensors (both the upstream and the downstream sensors on both sides). This has not improved the issue however, and still the engine starts fine and smooth, after it has run for a couple of mins, it audibly drops revs, becomes lumpy and engine light comes on, but if i give it some gas, it runs perfectly again and the engine light goes out. I should also mention that during this time of issue, it has also had an MOT and passed with perfect emissions. In my old fuel injection cars, they used a cold start valve, which was like a choke for fuel injection engines and gave the engine a bit of extra fuel to start and warm up - could this be something similar and the two minute period is when the cold start valve closes and suddenly the engine is starved of fuel and runs awfully until i use the accelerator to give it back more fuel? However, why only one bank of cylinders (1,2 and 3)?? I am struggling with this one and hoping someone may have had this or knows what's going on? Thanks, Steve
  16. I’m not sure what you have for roof rails but there are a lot of holes up there at the bottom of a channel that holds a lot of water. Those holes for screws are sealed with rubber thats getting old I removed my roof rails because I never use them to carry anything and put clear vinyl wrap over and I’m very happy that this is something I never have to worry about here is a picture of the bottom of the roof rails so you can see the rubber protection. I changed out my rear hood shocks two years ago and saw a rust on them that only could’ve come from the roof so it definitely leaks somehow. That’s the only way I can think of for that much water to get in.
  17. Hi guys and girls! I'm having some problem with my air suspension compersor, it won't start... The initial problem: Got the red suspension warning. The back of the car was on it's lowest setting. Foult: the air elbow connector on the brown line on the compressor had snapped. What I've done: - checked here and on Google for help (even some translated russian sites) - Removed compressor, fitted new fitting (not original, but something I had available at work, seal is fine) - compressor won't start when I turn on car. - compressor starts from external power source, and gives some air out on the spare wheel filling (brown line). But does not seem to fill the accumulators or the suspension. Now I'm stumped and would really appreciate if someone had some good ideas ideas 🙂 Is there some way to fill the accumulators from an external compressor?
  18. I installed a Dension myself behind the head unit. Keep the factory look, while gaining Bluetooth, aux and USB functionality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Durametric is the only scanner worth buying. It can’t do programming but the PIWIS is basically out of reach. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. What do you need to replace the engine mounts? I am going through the same "maintenance" on my 06 C4S and am looking at all perishable parts.... Thanks, Jon
  21. Hello....need a code for CDR-220 Serial # 15075587 VIN WP0CA29802U625993 THANKS......
  22. First time poster and first 911 - AND I am not mechanically inclined. (I have contributed to the lot expansion at my local Porsche dealer to get this car mechanically sound over the past year!) I purchased the car with a brand new top. After several times of putting the top up and down last summer, we noticed that there were two holes starting in exact center of the roof. Took it to a trim shop recommended by Porsche dealer. It was then that we identified that the top was folding down over the latch that locks down the convertible top compartment lid (clamshell?) Trim shop replaced the top and headliner but did not fix whatever was causing the top to fold incorrectly. Now, brand new top has the start of two new holes. I was told that Porsche issued a service alert on how to fix this but local Porsche dealer doesn't seem to be aware of it. Any thoughts, insight or details of what can be done will be appreciated. Don't have to dummy it down for me...I'll just pass the info on to the trim shop or Porsche dealer to get it fixed so I can finally enjoy the car! Year: 2000 Thanks in advance for whatever you can share!
  23. Has anyone swapped the Black caliper, 4 piston 355mm rotor, to the Red caliper, 6 piston 380mm rotor ? Is the upgrade worth the effort ? I'm running 305/35-19's on the rear of a 1999 cabriolet (narrow body) … wondering if the upgrade would make a noticeable difference for daily driving ? No issues exist with the Black calipers, but more rubber (weight) spinning makes me question if more brake capability is warranted.
  24. I guess the problem could be with the microswitch which senses the key being turned to the lock position. I believe the convertible top will go up and the car will lock if the key is held in this position. It is odd that it happens randomly, and that the central locking button on the dash also won't work sometimes. I would have thought that a problem with the alarm control unit would more likely cause faults like that. Any dampness under the left hand seat (driver's side in the US)? That's where the alarm unit is located.
  25. The labor involved in just replacing the window is a bit more than replacing the whole top because in both cases the old top must be removed. Plus you can't fit a glass window that is the same size as the plastic. I would replace the top with a Gahh A-5 German canvas top (OEM). You can chose between plastic or glass(more money) for the window . I went for the plastic window because it looks more like the lines of the coupe. The glass window is significantly smaller. It's a personal choice.
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