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Hi, can anyone help me find my radio code, I disconnected the battery to do some work on a micro switch and I haven’t got the code to put back into my CDR 22 serial 25005877 type 4467 Thank you in advance.

Is it possible some one can help get my radio code. 2001 boxster CDR220 type 4462 serial # Y5053499 24/99 Thank you.

It worked! @Loren thank you so much!

Try 3036

Hello! My serial number is x5035853 CDR 220 Thanks!

Hello Marty, how was this resolved? I have the same issue. Everything worked fine and suddely top will only open 2/3. Clamshell seems to work just fine and it closes perfectly. Only to stop at 2/3 when opening. Time after time. Microswitch in front latch seems ok and fluid is topped up. Anyone has any ideas?

Hi Loren, just to close out. It was suggested to me to check if the handbrake was engaged and the "park" light lit. Turns out although the handbrake was engaged, the light was out. I then released the handbrake and pulled it back on with a little more force, the "park" light came on and I was able to raise and lower the roof with the button. I'll order a new microswitch and get that fitted but for now my problem is resolved. I can now get in and service the hydraulics. I wanted to let you know I had found a solution as too often people will post a question on an issue but never provide the info on what the final fix was. Hopefully this might help someone else too. regards and thanks again Blair G

Thanks for the reply Loren. Sounds like I will need to get the tools that you outlined sooner rather than later considering the lack of engagement i got from the independents I talked with. At this point I just need to get the roof up so I can get access and check a few things, contorting myself into the back seat area is unlikely to happen! It's bad enough trying to get myself into the driver's seat (or out) at times!! regards Blair G

So you think it's OK to use the new ones? I think the ones installed are not the OEM one I think they when they replaced the water pipes and starter they may have replaced the seals. thanks for the reply.

The old seals are likely compressed from installation and heating/cooling of the components.

Im replacing the intake monifold seals and the new ones are taller than the old one, I have looked up the model numbers on the new and old ones and they are both compatible, not that it matters but I bought them from Rock Auto. but I don't understand why the new ones are much taller than the old one, is it cause they are different brands so different rubber compound? Is this normal? should I use the new ones or reinstall the old ones? this is for a 2008 S Old; Hungary >HNBR< 94811014601 New: Elring 484980

Thanks for the weclome!! That's great info to have and makes perfect sense. Looks like i need to get after it with the boroscope if the oil cooler is not leaking. amazon should be delivering my bentley manual this afternoon so hopefully should get an idea of how this all goes together

Welcome to RennTech If you have a head gasket failure, it would be the first we have ever seen as the heads and engine case are an aluminum alloy while the head gasket is steel, so case or head failures are more common. Common intermix areas are the oil cooler, cracked cylinder sleeves, or a cracked head. Good luck...........

Longtime VW/Audi owner and shade tree mechanic making my first jump into the Porsche ecosystem. I've acquired a non running Boxster. The PO had swapped in an 03 motor (m96.23) into an 01 (m96.22) and couldn't get it running thanks to information on this site I was able to realize the DME differences and swap pins around to get it running. I only had it running for a few moments when it started forcing coolant out of the coolant reservoir. Being the first car I've had with engine in the middle and radiator in the front I just assumed the cooling system hadn't been properly burped since the motor swap was done. I took the cap off and started it again, now I get chocolate milk flowing out and immediately shut it down. Next I took the oil filter off and was met with more of the same, darker chocolate milk colored vs the caramel color that was coming out of the coolant reservoir but clearly mixing. I drained the rest of the oil out of the motor and wasn't much more encouraging. I've seen on here the oil cooler is suspect in situations like this and I'll be pressure testing that later today. I'm concerned its more head gasket related given how quickly after starting it forced its way back through the cooling system, but I'm wondering if that's a common failure point for these motors? Is there anything else I should be looking for as I try to find the source of the mixing? Thanks in advance!

You will need a PST2 (old), PIWIS , or Durametric to test the various components of the top function. Many times it is a combination of failed sensors or microswitches and mechanical binding.

If you remove the radio there still might be a serial number label on the radio.

Thanks for the swift reply but unfortunately it's not working.. I assumed the final digit was a '3' as this last digit was not fully shown on the radio screen (see screenshot) I'm unsure how to proceed..

Hello everyone, new to the site here. I've owned my Guards Red 1999 Porsche 911 996 C2 for over 5 years and it has been a fun and pretty much uneventful ownership experience so far. I've only had a couple of minor issues that a local independent specialist took care of for me. However recently i ran into an issue with the top. After an evening drive the top would not go back up, there are no noises at all coming from any motors etc, handbrake on, frunk and engine cover closed, no clam shell movement. Tried several times and no dice. I suspected previously that I was losing hydraulic fluid (puddle of yellow liquid in front of rear tire) and was getting ready to remove the hydraulic arms to get the seals replaced when this happened. Initially i wasn't too bothered, the car was in the garage and I knew there was a manual method to raise the roof, so I left it for a couple of weeks. Fast forward to last weekend and I went to use the manual method to raise the roof. Discovered there was no Allen key behind the rear seat, so I used the correct sized Allen socket on a 3/8 ratchet with an extension. I was cautious and turned the ratchet slowly. After a few turns the clamshell started to open but right then the turning became very easy, the Allen key on the motor/gearbox side completely sheared off. So now I'm stuck, using the button to raise /lower does nothing. I've tried pulling on the part of the roof that I can see but it only lifts up approx 4-6 inches and then encounters resistance and I do not want to force it. My local independent guy is no longer in business. I tried a couple of other local Porsche specialists in the area but both of them said they did not take work on cabrios, one said they were too much hassle and the other that their expert on cabs had retired and they had no one to support. Yes, I could go to a dealer, but I'd prefer to avoid that. What I'm hoping is that somewhere in the collective knowledge of this group there is a way that I can get the roof up so I can access the hydraulic arms and get them fixed for a proper solution. Any ideas that you can share? many thanks in advance Blair G P.S. after searching around on this site in the 996 section, I've learned more about my car in the last hour than I did in the last 5 years!!

Thank you Loren I will give it a try .

Hi Pablo, Did you find out what the problem was? Grtz msschlck

Great, thanks for the info!

Did we ever find out why Fernando's 4S didn't start?

For the part time DIY user, the Durametric system is probably the best choice, it is a software based system that runs off any Windows based laptop and can do perhaps 85% of what the factory PIWIS system can do but without the $20,000 starting price tag of the PIWIS system. There are a lot of OBD II scan tools that claim to be Porsche specific, but we are yet to see one that really is or can even come close to the Durametric software. As for how to test, "search" is your friend. There are multiple threads and videos both on this website as well as others that can walk you thru the processes to evaluate your potential problems.