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P1124 and P1126 DME M 5.2.2


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Originally posted as PO1124 and PO1126 but my car is a 1997 and has the 5.2.2 DME...my Bad

Codes are P1124 and P1126...

From my Bentley manual P1124- fuel pump relay output stage and P1126 Oxygen sensor adaptation lower load 1-3

Any ideas? Thanks...

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Originally posted as PO1124 and PO1126 but my car is a 1997 and has the 5.2.2 DME...my Bad

Codes are P1124 and P1126...

From my Bentley manual P1124- fuel pump relay output stage and P1126 Oxygen sensor adaptation lower load 1-3

Any ideas? Thanks...

P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

- Intake air system leaking.

- Fuel pressure too low.

- Volume supply of fuel pump too low.

- Fuel injectors fouled.

This means the DME thinks your car is running too lean and the DME has tried to make the mixture richer - but reached it max threshold.

Most often this is caused by an air leak or bad reading from the MAF.

Check for air leaks and clean the MAF to start.

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Fuel filter?

Fuel pump fuse? I had a problem with power supply to the Drivers side fan. I changed the resistor and afterwards the fan was intermitent.

Pulled the fuse cover and saw the 30amp fuse for drivers side fan arching, had to bend the connectors to get a better connection. Hopefully fuel pump fuse is loose as well.

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Thanks Loren, "J" tube o-rings were leaking air into the throttle body....Found it using my propane torch as my Dad should me years ago on a Willy's...

Somethings you just never forget... :)

Is there a safe way to use a propane torch to find an air leak as you describe doing? If so, would you explain it in detail?

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks Loren, "J" tube o-rings were leaking air into the throttle body....Found it using my propane torch as my Dad should me years ago on a Willy's...

Somethings you just never forget... :)

Is there a safe way to use a propane torch to find an air leak as you describe doing? If so, would you explain it in detail?

Regards, Maurice.

My Dad (RIP), was a professional auto mechanic. Growing up we would repair Jeeps and cars and friends cars etc. One of the tricks he showed me was how to find a vacuum leak.

You use a small unlit propane torch turned very, very low with the vehicle idling. Pass the UNLIT torch over the suspected area and if there is a vacuum leak the engine rpm will increase.

Make sure that this is performed OUTDOORS.

Have all the areas for treatment mapped out in your mind before you start. It takes only a few seconds to pass the torch over an entire engine's possible leak generators.

On some of the older pre EFI cars there was way more vacuum lines than on EFI auto's and they were hard to find.

I take no responsibiity for anyone using this method, but it does work...

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