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Hello,

A few weeks ago I posted a few how to articles on my site for simple things such as air filter removal, headlight removal and etc. Since then my car started leaking oil from the rear main seal and I thought since this is a hot topic with Porsche enthusiasts I am going to do a RMS HOW-TO.

I did and it is complete:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto_porsche.php

I hope you enjoy it!

Feedback is appreciated!

Raymond

Edited by flat6
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Why did you clean inside the bellhousing after installing the new seal? Surely with all the gritty filth, it would have been better to have it clean before installing the seal. I would not have risked damaging the new seal with a particle of grit from the housing or my hands.

That said, with the tools and lift, it looks an uncomplicated job.

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Guys

After all this time and countless thousands spent, This wasnt as big a problem as we first thought , just lots of dirty work. With the redesign of the RMS seal, hopfully they will minimise the frequency of failure. Hey look at it this way when you redo the cluthch, this will be a item to check/fix while in that area.

Very nice job on the web site DIY, however I doubt too many guys will want to tackle this one in thier driveway.

I need to invest in a lift.

D

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Why did you clean inside the bellhousing after installing the new seal? Surely with all the gritty filth, it would have been better to have it clean before installing the seal. I would not have risked damaging the new seal with a particle of grit from the housing or my hands.

That said, with the tools and lift, it looks an uncomplicated job.

This is about one of the 10 things I noticed wrong with this write up. It sure doesnt look like you cleaned out the bores for the new case half screws. Oh well I'm sure the new micro-encapsulated bolts will still seal..... :rolleyes:

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  • 1 year later...
Why did you clean inside the bellhousing after installing the new seal? Surely with all the gritty filth, it would have been better to have it clean before installing the seal. I would not have risked damaging the new seal with a particle of grit from the housing or my hands.

That said, with the tools and lift, it looks an uncomplicated job.

This is about one of the 10 things I noticed wrong with this write up. It sure doesnt look like you cleaned out the bores for the new case half screws. Oh well I'm sure the new micro-encapsulated bolts will still seal..... :rolleyes:

HaHa, OKOK. Please keep in mind that I wrote this stuff well after I took the pictures and did the job. Infact the main seal was out when I cleaned the whole housing. I did clean the bores as well. I just didnt think that I would have such picky DIY guys on my case :)

Either way, I just wanted to shed a bit more light on the problem, which in my opinion is not such a huge problem!

Thanks Guys...!

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  • 2 months later...

Interesting write up and well done. But I suspect that car will be back for another RMS replacement sometime soon.

Couple of points to think about next time:

1) Both my local Porsche OPC and my indie workship recommend never to take a pick or screw driver to the RMS to remove it.

The way to do it is to very carefully drill a small hole in it and screw a self tapper into it and pull it out. Any slip of a pick or driver could be costly.

2) The seal is replaced using a special tool that is used both to align the seal and place it at the correct depth within the bore. If this is not used

you can almost be certain the replacement seal will leak again. Toolpants has got pictures of the tool in his Boxster RMS page on this site.

3) It's already been mentioned, but the cleaning process should be first and formost. The worst thing you can do is get any of the crap into

the engine and/or on the clutch mechanism.

4) I am not convinced that your suggestion to replace the flywheel is necessary. If it is contaminated maybe yes. But otherwise it should be good enogh

to clean it up. It's an expensive item.

Anyway thanks for the write-up. Its good to know that it is a DIY job albeit most of us dont have the car lift to do it :(

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  • 5 months later...

great diy instructions...i was looking through the pictures and it looks as if a clutch replacement is a fairly uncomplicated procedure. can anyone shed any light on this or should i just pay the $1800 that the dealer wants? i found the clutch kit which includes

# The following clutch kit includes: SACHS heavy-duty Pressure Plate (Made in Germany)

# SACHS heavy-duty Clutch Disc (Made in Germany)

# SACHS Release Bearing (Made in Germany)

# SACHS Special Lubricant

is this a diy project...do i need a lift or can i do it on ramps? how long did it take?

again, great diy write up!

thanks

erik

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