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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/20/2020 in Posts

  1. Most likely the control boxes have returned to factory settings after the work which has been carried out. Run the "Vehicle handover" program using a PIWIS tool and you should be fine.
    1 point
  2. First off, cool post. Holy cow though, 600 Euros? I didn't realize the Bosch AGM was that much too, that's super expensive. I also just replaced my battery recently -- the original Varta AGM in my 2014 vehicle -- with an Optima Yellow-Top, which costs $250 USD and I was thinking that was pricey. You can get a DieHard Platinum AGM (apparently all the AGM's here are Johnson Controls anyway) here for about $175. The AGM batteries do last longer than conventional lead acid (with other cool benefits like no spill, vibration resistance, etc) and my 7 year old Varta probably could have made it l
    1 point
  3. As someone that spent a significant part of his career in the battery business, your use of "assuming the proportions are the same" is more than seriously flawed. The CCA test used by the BCI (Battery Council International, the international technical consortium that sets standards for battery ratings and testing procedures used by battery manufacturers world wide) is very similar to the one used by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers); which requires storing the finished and fully charged battery a 0F (-17.8 C) for a period of 24 hours, then load testing it to determine its CCA rating.
    1 point
  4. And here it is, already installed and working just fine: Looks awfully empty in there. I guess I have a little bit more of frunk space now 😉 The size comparison is amazing as well as the weight: 26kg the Bosch, 3.3kg the lithium. Considering that I replaced the comfort full electric seats with the 997GT2 seats, and saved about 40kg there, I managed to offset the weight of the Tip when compared with the manual 😉 Disclaimer: neither one of those mods was done to save weight, it's just a positive side-effect.
    1 point
  5. We always did it on a lift with an engine support bar under it before we undid the mounts. You only need to drop it a couple of inches to make getting at it much easier, not out of the car. Usually, the nut on the ground is not in bad shape, and a quick spray with a good penetrating oil always helps. Just be sure to wipe it off before putting it back together again, and put a small dab of anti seize inside the nut.
    1 point
  6. The correct test for the primary cables is voltage drop rather than resistance. No primary cable should show a drop of 0.5 V, if they do, they should be replaced regardless of what resistance testing shows.
    1 point
  7. If you have done 90k km or multiples of the the cardon shaft bearing need replacing before it costs you a whole shaft. Easy to check, get a small wreaking bar and move the shaft up and down, if you see cracks in the rubber around the bearing then replace it now!
    1 point
  8. Thud could be centre bearing carrier for the rear cardon shaft. Whistle may be evident if your aircon servo flaps are closed. Try opening them by turning on the fan and having air flowing to the outlets.
    1 point
  9. Just want to report the end of the story. Replacing the fuel pump didn’t change anything. Only after getting a new fuel filter the codes disappeared. No more blowing fuses. Everything ok. Car passed the emission test. Very happy. Actually not very difficult this job. Lots of DIY reports everywhere. Just it’s a mess to work inside a fuel tank. Thank you for following and supporting
    1 point
  10. I also have a '99 with exact same conditions described. When I start the car after a couple weeks the sounds is there. If I use the car consecutive days the sound is much less or not there at all. From all the reading I have done, the IMS chain tensioner is a possible cause and not addressing it can increase wear on the tensioner paddle. I plan to replace this tensioner soon (pn 99610518059).
    1 point
  11. Start with the fuse -- D3 should 30A. Remove it and test the fuse with an ohm meter. D3 is in the fuse box by the drivers left leg. D3 is 4th row down and 3rd fuse from the left.
    1 point
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