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1 pointand fuel filler door depending on year....glove box door
1 pointRefer to my first graph above; what concerns me is that you are not getting a true nearly flat line from the rear O2 sensor and a rhythmic sine wave like curve from the front sensor, yours are showing a bounce that should not be there. You could have fouled cats.
1 pointFront trunk, rear engine cover, doors, center console, interior sensor.
1 pointYou need a scan tool that reads the O2 sensor voltages in real time, and preferably graphs the values. One sensor on each side should by cycling, while the other draws a straight voltage line. If both are cycling, one of the sensors is out. My concern would be that someone just worked on the car and may of crated a wiring issue that is screwing up one sensor on each side, causing the issue. This is where there is no substitute for the correct diagnostic equipment. I would start by using the above chart to determine that you really have the correct sensor in the correct locations; otherwise you will be chasing your tail trying to sort this out......
1 pointTake it back to whoever did the repairs and tell them to make it right.
1 pointDefinitely recommend a low temp thermostat. If you never cleaned the radiators then you will be shocked and that could help a lot. Most importantly, don’t give up, it is probably something simple!
1 pointI got a replacement fan from my dealer, and went ahead and replaced it. Problem solved, I can activate both fans in Durametric. Tips for other beginners like me who want to do this swap. 1. I removed the bumper and it is easier to access the setup. You must remove the front wheel well liner and the thin tubular cross brace. 2. It is easiest to remove the bracket supporting the radiator from below. The electric connection box on the inside/top of the bracket and the large radiator hoses connect with torx screws, while the others are hex (10 and 13mm). So you need torx sockets. 3. You don't need to disconnect the radiator vent hose. 4. You don't need to separate the AC condenser from the radiator, but it is easy to do, and allows some wiggle room to clean the debris out. I blew compressed air from the back and vacuumed from the front. Quite a bit of mess came out and the rads still don't look clean. Oh well. 5. The electric connector on the top of the fan assembly (air duct) is tricky. Seems like it should come apart by pulling outward (laterally), but in fact you should grab the inner half and pull it inward. The outer half is attached to the body of the air duct. Luckily I realized this before I broke something. Thanks for the hint that the fan might be a problem. That's why this forum is so great!
1 pointCheck your radiators like you planned. check your water pump, see if there is seepage. you can remove the serpentine belt and see if it turns freely. lastly, it could be your thermostat sticking. mike
1 pointC1 to C4 are easy to remember for me so I always ask ppl to check those. You are right that one of them is for the fuel pump so it will not cause your symptoms. Next things to check are clutch switch (jump it) and make sure the battery cables are tight. Next place to check is the rear starter relay panel.
1 pointYes, replacing a fan does not require draining coolant. I doubt both fans would die at once - plus you say you can run them through Durametric. If you clear the codes and run the car (with AC on) which is the first fault code?
1 pointThe airbag control unit is usually right below the PCM - so check that wires were not damaged or accidentally disconnected.
1 pointI’m not surprised that anyone would not honor any warranty after it has expired; that is why it has a date on it. Also not surprised about your comment on the EPS bearing, falls into the rules of small numbers.
1 pointWelcome to RennTech Try contacting board sponsors Sunset Porsche in Beaverton OR.
1 pointHi there I’m thinking maybe your condenser fan is not working properly or is clogged with debris I’d start there. If the system is cooling when you are moving down the road I would say that is a likely culprit.
1 pointFuse 16 in the left fuse support. In many cases, it is not the fuse but a bad horn (or horns). The factory horns are not very good.
1 pointI suggest you to check wiring from airbag module to the instrument cluster. If it's ok then diagnose instrument cluster as well. A bad circuit or unusual ohm reading can result on a light triggering. If this also fails, consider having your mechanic replacing the airbag module with a used one for testing.
1 pointRemoval Convertible top in service position 1. Removing side-panel lining. Removing side-panel lining -1-. 2. Removing rear side window inner seal. Remove front and rear fastening screws -2- from the convertible top support and the mount for the belt guide section, and pull rear side window inner seal -3- up and out. 3. Closing side window. Press the micro-switch -4- in the windscreen frame and actuate the rocker switch -5- at the same time. 4. Releasing power window. Release adjusting elements with the adjustment tool -7-. To do this, loosen and unscrew the nuts -6- from the adjusting element. Adjustment tool for the rear power window. 5. Detaching convertible-top support. Remove fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- from convertible-top support -10- and pull the deflection fitting and mount for the belt guide section -9- up and out. Pull convertible-top support -10- inward and fix between B-pillar and the convertible-top support with a spacing block -12- dimension - A = 30 mm. 6. Removing power window. Push rear power window -11- upward and push both locking tabs of the electrical connection -13- outward and disconnect. Install 1.Inserting power window. Connect electrical plug connection -13-, insert power window -11- into the window shaft from above and position in the mounts in the inner side section. 2. Screwing down convertible-top support. Remove spacing block -12- between B-pillar and convertible top support -10-, Position fastening screws -2- and fastening nut -8- in convertible-top support -10- and tighten, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb,). Push deflection fitting into the mount for the belt guide section -9-, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-. Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.). 3/4. Adjusting and screw down power window. By moving the power window -4- with respect to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle, the power window can be adjusted by dimension Y = ± 10 mm, The contact pressure of the side window upper edge on the convertible top is adjusted by screwing the lower adjusting element -A- in or out by dimension X = ± 10 mm-, The contact pressure on the rear window inner seal or the offset from the door window is adjusted by screwing both of the upper adjusting elements -B- in or out by dimension X = ± 5 mm. Adjust the basic setting of the adjusting elements -B- of the top edge of the rear side section relative to the side window, Dimension C Front top edge of rear side section = 11 mm Dimension D Rear top edge of rear side section = 14 mm Push the power window backward or forward and adjust the gap between the side window and door window to E = 9 mm, Adjust the contour or the offset from the door window at adjusting element -A-, Tighten adjusting elements -A- and -B-, Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.). 5. Installing rear side window inner seal. Insert rear side window inner seal -3- into rear side section slot and position on the convertible-top support or mount for belt guide section, Screw in and tighten fastening screws -2-. 6. Install side-panel lining.
1 pointIf that does not work then get out your dremel tool and cut a slot across the hole and use a big screwdriver. Whenever I have rounded out phillips screws that is what I do.
1 pointIf you have not figured it out yet. The vent is held in with 2 locking clips. You press down on the clips and the vent pulls out. Jeff