Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    To my knowledge, Porsche did not use that measurement as spec on these engines. Instead, they had specs for overall valve length from tip to tip as 110.1 +/- 0.1MM on the intakes and 109+/- 0.1MM on the exhausts, and installed valve spring heights on valves that passed the overall spec at 36.7 +/- 0.3MM intakes and 35.7 +/- 0.3MM exhausts as measured from the spring seat to the bottom of the spring retainer.
  2. 1 point
    READ the Lost Radio Code FAQ... Try 6789
  3. 1 point
    There is a clear plastic line that goes from the battery vent to the underside of the car. Not sure that I remember any others.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Pelican Parts sells a book called "101 Projects" which shows in detail many servicing tasks in detail. pelicanparts.com.
  6. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech Porsche discontinued printed service manual more than ten years ago, so copies are hard to come by. The only decent and current "online" manual I know of is Porsches PIWIS TSI system, which is pricey. A decent print manual is the Bentley Boxster manual. Good luck.
  7. 1 point
    I think Jose is meaning the hex nut inside the car under the headliner that is holding on the anchor plate. You can see the anchor plate and the bolt that goes inside the car in my second photo at the top. I can't recall the size of the allen/hex key (it was 12 years ago, amazingly), but I do remember it was large. Depends on your hand size (!), but it was probably about the thickness of my little finger. Greg
  8. 1 point
    19 ft. lbs. is correct, as is +120 degrees (updated in 2002). Be sure to use new bolts (they are single use only), and apply ARP Ultra Torque lube to threads and under the bolt heads.
  9. 1 point
    As I understand it, a PDK transmission requires both a transmission fluid change and clutch fluid change. The clutch fluid change needs to be carried out twice as often as the transmission fluid. If your problem is not software-related, I'd hazard a guess at a clutch fluid change being necessary. Odd that a Porsche dealer would state that a clunking PDK was "fine and normal" !
  10. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech We see a lot of cars that are anywhere from slightly overfilled to way overfilled with oil. These engine’s do not appreciate this and can respond by occasional smoke outbreaks. We always keep our customer’s cars 1-2 bars below the top line, and every car that passes through the shop gets their crankcase vacuum level checked; if the show more than 5 inches of water when fully warmed up, they are a candidate for a new AOS, which can also cause the infamous Porsche smokescreen.
  11. 1 point
    Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence. More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:
  12. 1 point
    Normal. Flat 6 design. A puff of smoke, on cold start-up, that quickly clears, is n o r m a l.
  13. 1 point
    I just completed installing wireless charging pads for my smartphone and wanted to do a write-up to share with you guys. Requirements / Baseline: I use my smartphone quite a bit for navigation in the car and wanted a seamless, hard-wired solution for it to be charging while being used (GPS use sucks up a lot of juice) Even when not using GPS, I wanted to be able to dock the phone and not have to fiddle with a cord I had to plug in each time. Docking should mean charging, with zero effort. I am constantly picking it up and taking photos or talking etc. and plugging/unplugging each time proved to be a huge hassle (which prompted this whole project in the first place). Here are the parts I ordered: Proclip vent mount. ProClip Center Mount*-*ProClip USA Proclip universal device mount (medium). Medium Universal Adjustable ProClip Holder T1*-*ProClip USA Dual USB cigarette lighter adapter. Amazon.com: iFlash Dual USB Car Lighter Charger Adapter with 3A Output - fast Heavy Duty Ouput - Black Color: Cell Phones & Accessories Aux twin power outlet (for hardwiring) Amazon.com: Custom Accessories 10242 Auxiliary Twin Power Outlet: Automotive QI wireless charging pad (mini) for phone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400562881904?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Random wire splitters, connectors, 18 gauge wire, zip ties, etc. Installation Notes: I am not covering the steps on how to install the Proclip vent mount - pretty straightforward. I wanted the whole setup to be modular. i.e., have the ability to swap out the charging pad later on for different voltage/design, swap out cables in case I go to a device that is not micro-USB, as well as have the ability to swap between 2A and 1A outlets on the USB charger socket. I wanted it all to be hardwired so I that I don’t have to fiddle with cables and plugging in each device each time I get in and out of the car. First, I spliced the cigarette lighter socket and juiced my dual aux input tray. Then I just tucked the dual outlet tray behind the center console Also, clearly, for this to work, your smartphone/tablet needs to support wireless or induction charging. Many of the modern devices do nowadays (except apple, cough cough), but in case they don’t here is a neat solution that I used on my old phone (Galaxy S4 mini): Qi Wireless Universal Charger Receiver Pad Coil with Micro USB Head for Samsung | eBay
  14. 1 point
    I did the oil change yesterday and it went perfectly. I thought I'd provide the information in this post that I consolidated from this and other forums for any others who are interested. Pics attached. Thanks to all those who provided this information. 1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily. 2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly. 3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin. 4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040. 5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily. 6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal. 7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter. 8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until if felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque. 9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place. 10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right). 11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch some drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres). 12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short (sorry for the poor pic but you'll get the idea). One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres. 13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks. 14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.
  15. 1 point
    Install special order parts on top Bow; Rework Bow adjust fit of top, adjust frame to body fit. Part 987-561-927-00 F-kit felt strip. I have no problems with the top since this was done, no noise at all, and as it has been summer it has been up and down a lot of times. I should look to see exactly what it is they changed.
  16. 1 point
    Now let me say that this job was quite straightfoward, BUT I would suggest that you have a bit of experience in bearing fittting as well as presswork or you may really mess things up in a big way. You also need a ball joint service puller set, and yes you need ALL the tools in the kit. I got mine from OTC/ msc industrial supply cat #78453842. You will also need a way to make some mandrels for pressing the bearings in and out. And a way to heat the carrier to around 150 degrees. Now for the fun 1) jack up car and place on jackstands, remove front wheels 2) remove front plastic underpanel 3) have someone hold the brakes (hard) and remove the front large (1.25") axel nut, this is TIGHT 340 ft.lbs. so get ready for a fight. 4) with a brass or aluminium mandrel and a hammer tap, (ok smack), the drive shaft to dislodge it from the splines of the hub (don't mess up the threads!!!) 5)Remove the brake pads and the brake caliper (hex drive) tie it up in the wheel well out of the way 6)Remove the psm sensor, move it to the side (2 10mm nuts) 7)unbolt lower sway bar link 8)unbolt headlight sensor link 9)Remove the brake rotor 10) Remove tin brake shield (10mm bolts) 11) remove 18mm nut and press apart tie rod link with the tool 12) remove the 18mm nut and carefully use the tool to press apart the lower ball joint 13) Unbolt the clamp on the strut, then while pressing down on the lower arm slide the carrier off the strut and the front axel (gt2 remove axel-bearing retainer) and take to the bench 14) Now from the rear side carefully press the center hub out of the bearing, It will come apart with 1/2 the bearing attached to the center hub, it is TIGHT and will take a bit of force to remove it. Be careful NOT to hurt the carrier as it is $$$ if you break it 15) With a puller remove the center race(the part that was left on the shaft) from the hub, set aside 16) take off the 4- 13mm bolts and remove the bearing retainer plate from the carrier 17) HEAT (and DO NOT skip this step) the carrier to 100 deg,F and with a mandrel press/drive out the bearing from the carrier, again BE CAREFUL when suporting the carrier!!!! 18) Clean all parts. 19) Now the bearing is about a .0035 PRESS fit in the carrier, you CANNOT just press it in cold, you MUST heat the carrier to get it in, there are 2 methods to do this a) heat carrier to 100 deg F and using a mandrell that touches only the outer part of the bearing press in the new bearing B) set a inside micrometer to .004 over the bearing size, then heat the carrier to around 150 deg F, at this point check size with the mike to make SURE the carrier is over the size of the bearing and drop the bearing into the carrier, it will slip right in with no force at all, HOWEVER if you goof up and it sticks 1/2 way you are screwed. 20) Replace the bearing retainer plate with the 4 bolts, if yours has it the small notch goes to the bottom, its a water drain, torque the bolts, 27 ft lbs 21) Very carefully suporting the inner bearing race only,press in the wheel hub to the stop, be careful not to hurt your new bearing. WATCH what you press on!!!!! 22) assemble in reverse order, center 1.25 nut torques to 340 ft,lbs. 23) make sure to torque all bolts/nut to the correct values and double check all bolts.nuts before driving As you can see this bearing was SHOT, 26,000 miles and sounded like road noise, it did not respond to any tests like a bad bearing at all, so check your bearings!!! Thanks to Jeremy at Imagine Auto for the quick service and the tips, you guys are great !! Good luck !! Do this repair at your own risk, this diy is just provided as a general guide.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.