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Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  2. 1 point
    Not the gas cap but the fuel filler door. Good that you managed to find the emergency release cable. Now do yourself a huge favor and pull the plastic piece covering the hood latch and relocate the cable to just behind the front bumper tow hook plug. It fits right in there and the next time all you have to do is pop the tow hook plug and there is the cable. Now from your description of problems, I think you should take a look at the hood release actuator. It might be the source of both problems, horn beep, stuck hood latch and it not working from the lock buttons. See Part #19 here in this parts diagram. I think you should be able to hear it click while someone operates the button. If not, then it is probably faulty. Lid Front WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    #1 and #3 are connected to the radiators
  5. 1 point
    #33 is under the car along the transmission going to the heater core.
  6. 1 point
    Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.
  7. 1 point
    1. Durametric. 2. Minor body changes 2015-2016, 2016 GTS model, 2017 Macan 4 cylinder. 3. I do not think there have been many air suspension failures or faults since 2016. Air is more expensive than steel but also has many handling advantages. 4. No, transfer cases are pretty much it for large items and most of those are replaced under warranty. 5. The VIN will not tell you anything about the options without a report from a dealer (we can also get reports for our Contributing Members). Download the option codes list here: https://www.renntech.org/files/category/140-macan/
  8. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Then a proper programming is needed.
  11. 1 point
    If the car starts okay then that party of the coding was done. As I recall programming the door locks is separate as well as the rear hatch.
  12. 1 point
    The car has to be programmed to the Kessy fob (not the other way around). You must have the car's security codes and use a Porsche PIWIS tester. There is no other way that I am aware of. You need to find a shop with a Porsche PIWIS tester and then you as the legal car owner needs to go a Porsche dealer and request your security codes - you may be required to show proof of ownership.
  13. 1 point
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  14. 1 point
    I just resolved a window issue on my 2007 Porsche Cayman and wanted to post and help out anyone with a similar issue. My passenger side window was functioning normally except for when I closed my door the automatic window drop to clear the door seal was not returning to the complete up position and was staying down. The automatic up feature on the window was also not working. The auto-down feature worked and all other functions of the window performed normally. So to be clear, when you pulled the exterior and interior door handles the widow dropped the 10mm or 1/4 inch it should. However, upon shutting the doot the window would stay down in this position and not return up. So.... I decided to do some research and came across the "latch micro switch issue".. I figured hey part isn't that expense so I replace the latch and the issue remained. After much more research, I came across a post about that issue being caused from a faulty door motor ECU. This IS the reason for the issue. After, disconnecting the battery, taking off the door panel using numerous videos and instructions from this site and others I was able to quickly replace the motor unit with a new one that I got on ebay for $120. The motor is easy to remove, 3 screws and then just pull the motor straight out and it will disconnect from the window regulator. Next, pop in the new one and you are good to go. Finally, the issue was resolved upon reconnecting the car battery and the motor auto cycled up and down and is now functioning normally. I wanted to post this as I am hoping someone else who does a google search for a similar issue will find this and save them hundreds if not a thousand dollars from taking the car to a Porsche dealer. The part number for the motor that I used to replace the current window motor was 997.624.182.06 replacing the original part that was 997.624.182.03
  15. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  16. 1 point
    Hi everyone. A couple of days ago, the PSM & ABS warning lights lit up on my 2001 Carrera. A quick search on this Forum suggested a faulty brake pedal switch. Checked my brake lights and sure enough, no lights so a faulty switch is definitely indicated. After about 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash, managed to get it out. Sure enough, the switch has an open circuit. Bought a new switch and plugged it into the harness. Tested the plunger on the switch to see if the brakes lights work - but they did not. However, no PSM/ABS lights showing which is an improvement. Seemed odd to me but I have seen stranger on this car so I press ahead. Another 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash and finally re-installed the new switch under the pedal. But now the PSM/ABS lights turn on again and still no brake lights! Back to square one! Removed the switch (now it takes me only 5 minutes to twist my body under the dash) and check it out. Checks out perfectly. And NO PSM/ABS lights with the switch plugged in but not installed under the pedal. Hmmmm. Check fuses and all the usual stuff. Everything fine. Thought about the brake light bulbs but what are chances of all 3 brake lights burned out all at once??? Surely at least one of them should be working so I can at least tell whether the brake light circuits are OK. Seriously considering taking the car to the dealer. Reinstall the switch under the pedal (I can now do that in less than 30 seconds of twisting). Check the driver side brake light bulb. It's burned out! Check the passenger side bulb. That is also burned out. Check the centre brake light - that one is OK. So why don't I at least have a centre brake light when I press the brake pedal??? Replace the driver side bulb. But still no brake lights anywhere! Remove the new bulb and check it out. Nothing wrong with it. So I replace the passenger side bulb and suddenly everything works fine, including the centre brake light! And no ABS/PSM lights! Everything fine!!! Question. Are the circuits really designed so that if one brake bulb fails, none of the others will work? Doesn't make sense to me. Lesson 1. Do the simple things first, eg. replace ALL bad bulbs before testing. Though I still don't understand why one dead bulb suppresses the other two brake lights AND turns on the ABS/PSM warning lights. Or perhaps this was just some random weird chain of events! Lesson 2. Amazing how something that originally takes 30 minutes can be done in 30 seconds with a little practice!
  17. 1 point
    If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop OMG. This is by FAR the best thread I've read. For 2 years now i've had this very exact cracking noise and nobody (dealers) knew where it came from. It just tried your fix and it took all of 5 minutes and 2 bucks. Sound is now GONE. Pop. i think i love you. LOL
  18. 1 point
    I'm shocked that a Cayenne S would be available without cruise control. I though it was a standard feature.
  19. 1 point
    During my travels, I try, like many of you, to visit with Porsche folks. Met some really nice people willing to take the time to shoot the breeze about their cars over the years I have a fun collection of some of the nicest and most unique shops where these people work on their cars. Some of these "shops" are as nice as the houses they are attached to! So I created a new section on my site for the displaying of these "shops". So if you have some pictures of your shop, send them to me and I'll post them. There is one up there now that has been my favorite so far. The shop is as nice as the guy that owns it. Some of the old timers from the east coast may recognize it. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Then click on the "The Werkstatt" Link ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com :renntech:
  20. 1 point
    New to this forum and seeing if there is something different outside the 356 Registry. I run a small website dedicated to the 356 and thought it might be of some value to the members here. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Check it out and let me know if it is helpful. ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com
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