Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2025 in all areas

  1. Welcome to RennTech The factory radio had a ground wire that had to be attached to the car's chassis under the dash as a simple anti theft device. If that ground is not there, the immobilizer will prevent the car from starting.
    2 points
  2. We have used them here in the US for years at MUCH colder temperature's than you get without ANY issues. Put on the adaptor, add external magnets such as the Filter Mag, and enjoy both better filtration and peace of mind.......
    1 point
  3. Non, push down with one hand, squeeze the ribbed bottom ring with the other hand and pull up, this is not as easy as it looks, succes.
    1 point
  4. That's trouble. Recheck connections. Use Deoxit on the plug-in connectors. Use fine grit sandpaper (and clean off the grit left by sanding) on the nutted connections. Is it possible you shorted something out as you removed the battery? Were the battery cable ends removed at the battery? Is it the original alternator? It might be possible that it's only the voltage regulator module.
    1 point
  5. Your alternator is not functioning, running you should have 14.5V DC. Pull the alternator, check the wiring connections to be sure they are tight and seated, if they are you are in the market for a voltage regulator..........
    1 point
  6. I'd start with checking the alternator, is it putting out 14.5 V DC at idle? If not, I would check to make sure you properly reconnected the wiring.
    1 point
  7. What are your voltages? Resting, idling, driving above 2000rpm? There are gizmos to help with this monitoring - Antigravity Batteries has a battery tracker. Others plug into the cigarette lighter. Do you have any codes (can be read with Durametric and other (OBDII) readers)? I've read stories on Rennlist about induced electrical noise in the sound system even when the sound system is not turned on. Might your alternator be damaged or no longer have a high quality ground? Could the noise be mechanical (transmitted noise)? You did change pulleys. Run the car a few minutes without the serpentine belt and see if the noise is reproduced.
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. Do this someplace safe... Put in Neutral and see if the noise continues or not. If it does not continue then it is likely in the drivetrain (transmission, transfer case, driveshaft, rear end}. If it does continue then it is likely in the running gear (wheel bearing, axle shaft, or even warped brake discs).
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Because it is a 2005 engine, it would most likely have the oversized third generation IMS bearing in it, which means it cannot be removed without total disassembly of the engine because it will not fit through the opening in the engine cases. One way to know for sure would be to pull the trans, clutch and flywheel off and look at the nut on the IMS bearing center bolt; if it is 22 MM, you have the oversized bearing, which was the only one to use that large a nut.
    1 point
  14. The engine serial number would have been built in late 2005 or early 2006. Porsche rebuilt engines always get the latest parts and a warranty. To be sure you would have to open the engine to get the IMD diameter. If you want insurance then you can install one of the 3rd party IMS oiler solutions. IMS Solution: Oil Fed Plain IMS Bearing - No Ball or Roller Intermediate Shaft Bearings LNENGINEERING.COM IMS bearing failures are expensive. The IMS Solution is the only permanent solution to the IMS problem. Proven protection and the industry’s best warranty.
    1 point
  15. Found the solution, the circuit board inside to control unit was corroded at the power input, cleaned resoldered and now working! That’s saved a fair few pounds, just all the trim to put back
    1 point
  16. This is what it looks like right now. First extended drive completed without any issue. Slightly more precise shifter feel (duh.. less slop) 🙂 . .
    1 point
  17. We did this for all Carrera variations so it's time we added for the Boxster's too. Measure the position of the logo with a measuring tape according to the model variant and affix it to the rear lid. Logo Boxster -- 3 A dimension X = 285 mm and Y = 45 mm Logo Boxster S -- 3 A in connection with the letter S dimension X = 245 mm and Y = 45 mm Logo S -- 3 B dimension Z = 20 mm and V = 40 mm
    1 point
  18. Hi..I live in rainy Ireland and this has been a real problem in my 996 Cab. I brought your water drain diagramme to my garage and they removed the interior side panel to find an easy solution. A number of drain tubes collate into a collection point like a mini funnel which had built up a pot of sludge and water could no longer flow through same and out of the car...so diverted to the back foot wells. Who thinks up the stupid systems??
    1 point
  19. Today I did front final drive gear oil change. This DIY will show you how I did it. Since I had a hard time to access the drain plug, I removed fill plug and used a pump to suck out the final drive oil. Worked really well, and helped avoid messy drain, which puts oil onto the lower axle carrier frame too. FSM calls for change quantity of 0.42L, and I managed to remove about that much from the drive, so I feel confident I got it all. Used empty oil can go suck old oil into it, and another empty oil can to put same amount of new oil it, making sure I fill with what I removed. I actually filled the new oil can with maybe 1/4" more oil, to accommodate for some oil that pump cannot take out of can, and some oil left in tubing. Oil used for change: Mobil Delvac 1 full synthetic gear oil 75W-90 (direct cross reference to Shell TF0951 - factory fill oil) Oil refill quantity: 0.42L (bit less than half a quart) New fill plug part number: N 902 818 02 Fill plug tighten torque: 25.8 ft/lbs Fill plug removal tool: ratchet, extensions (at least 6"), 5mm hex socket, shop towels Look at this DIY before you do the change. Make sure you have all materials and time to do it. Expect about an hour to hour and a half to complete. Let us know if you have comments. Thank you.
    1 point
  20. 2001 C4 Cab. 58k miles. I have this exact problem, ticking that happens at idle, but slightest depression of clutch pedal makes it stop. Got new clutch 4 months 4 k miles ago. The noise started a few weeks ago,. Any idea how in the world the clutch master could be making that noise? Reluctant to replace without seeing how it could be the problem. Thanks.
    1 point
  21. Changed the master clutch cylinder and the noise is gone. Thanks for all of your comments. Carrera3.2, When I did the clutch/flywheel, I also replaced the: - IMS bearing and flange with LN Engineering upgrade - All 3 cam chain tensioners - RMS - AOS - Water pump - LN engineering Low Temp thermostat - Slave cylinder - Clutch master cylinder - Sparkplugs and all 6 coil packs - Cardan Shaft (the rubber guibo on my original shaft was cracked) - Coolant reservoir tank and cap - Changed Trans and front diff fluid - Changed oil and filter Hope this helps. If I can think of anything else I did, I'll add to the list. My car drives amazingly well now. Britt
    1 point
  22. I could not disagree more. You want the TB to be dry as only air passes over it.
    1 point
  23. I found it......if anyone wants to know....it is directly underneath the driver side intake "plenum".....with the line going into the the intake, right after the throttle body towards the passenger side of the car.
    1 point
  24. Here are the pictures and instructions. This TSB is easy to do, and the range in my key remote went from 4 ft to 30 ft. 1999 996 Cabrio. Here are the tools you will need. The following steps: 1. Remove the sun visor. It simply pulls out 2. Use the small flat screw driver to pry of plastic cover on visor base. When removed, you will see the Hex bolt heads 3. Use the 4 mm Hex wrench key to remove both bolts. Hold on to the part, it has washers on the other side and can get fall off if not careful. 4. Now pull off the A-pillar cover to reveal the cables underneath. 5 Pull out the cables that are held in place on the foam sleeve. There is double sided tape holding it in place, pull carefully but firmly. From the top down 6. After pulling it, undo the foam by pulling apart the seam. The white wire is the antenna we are looking for. 7. Keep peeling off the foam until you get to the black sleeve on the antenna. 8. Measure off 130 mm from the end of the black sleeve upwards into the white antenna, and cut the the rest off. You need to keep 130 mm (25 mm is about an inch) of antenna above the black sleeve. 9. Pull the antenna wire off the foam sleeve, and enclose the rest of the wires with the foam sleeve. 10. The picture shows the wire after being secured with electrical tape to the OUTSIDE of the sleeve, and towards the inside of the cabin when the foam is taped back to the A-pillar. 11. The two sided tape on the foam is sticky enough to simply push the foam back into its original position. 12. TEST the remote now before assembling the trim. Walk away from the car, lock and unlock it, and grin. 13. Replace the trim, it just pushes back in, do it from the bottom up and ensure it is on the inside of the rubber gasket. 14. Secure the sun visor base with the two Hex bolts. Careful you don't loose the washers. Then push back in the sun visor and you are done. I changed from the TSB the location of the antenna wire to the outside of the foam sleeve, and added the bit of electrical tape to hold it in place and avoid any issues when reassembling the trim. It worked for me and I have tested and enjoyed up to 30 ft of range with the remote in open lots, and covered garages. Enjoy..
    1 point
  25. My 2001 996 had the hardtop on it (with the improved hardtop latches, per Porsche). When I went to remove it last night, I had a very hard time getting the top off. I opened the doors, lowered the rear quarter windows, fully unlatched the front catch, and then opened the latches in back (yes, all the way to the stop). It was a real struggle to get the back to release; with the latches open I had maybe a quarter or half inch of vertical play, but could not lift the top any higher in back than that. After 20 minutes of opening and closing the latches I finally popped the front out of the tabs and then muscled the back out. Did I do something wrong (like not lowering the front windows even though the doors were open), do I need to adjust the latches, or do I just need to apply more force?
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.