Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. 1 point
    This is normal Cayenne behavior, once the key has been brought into crank position it can be released, either the engine starts immediately or the starter motor will stop on a timer (appr. 5-6 sec.) without holding the key. A faster starting speed on engines in good condition, indicates compression loss in general, after a longer standstill as 6 month and more, valve pollution is usually the cause. This can not always be determined with a compression measurement, a cylinder leak test is more appropriate.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    The fourth stalk can be added.
  9. 1 point
    Yes, that is the seal and the cam tool set.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Struts live in a pretty harsh world with road grit and moisture being thrown at them. The stock struts have a pretty good dust cover arrangement to protect the damper shafts and seals but the coil-over replacements I’m familiar with don’t have nearly as effective protection. There’s an easy and inexpensive solution in the form of the Coil-Over Socks that I’ve photographed here. The socks have a velcro seam top to bottom so they just wrap and zip to install. I’ve had mine for some time and they’re holding up well. The best part is that my coil-overs were nice and clean when I later went in to adjust ride heights.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Kessy module is under the dash just up above the accelerator pedal. I think the module next to the rear comfort control module is the level control module?
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Guys, Thanks for the information in this and several other threads. I was able to fix an new problem on my 2002 Boxster. The passenger window stopped dropping the 1/2 inch on either inside or outside handle pull. It was really odd, I took out the latch and while wiggling it around the window would drop and raise back up repeatedly. I took the latch apart and cleaned it and re-soldered the pc board. Put it back together and it as working fine. Thanks again, Ken Alarm Fault 47 Possible cause of fault: • Short circuit to ground/open circuit between alarm system control module and door locks • Door lock faulty Fairly common is a worn and broken mechanical latch in the door lock itself.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    So I was looking at dashcams and thought maybe I would use my GoPro instead with a remote - seems their handlebar mount is made for the rear cross bar (£17 on Amazon at the moment) Will run a USB-C cable from the socket in the console when it arrives Quite happy with the result and I can’t see it in my rear view mirror at all
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  22. 1 point
    While looking for a good garage door opening solution for my MY01 996 C4, I came across some posts referring to the Gentex auto-dimming mirror with Homelink. Some posts suggested that there was a VW/Audi adapter that would allow this universal fit mirror to be installed on a 996 windshield. Other posts suggested that it was easy to tap into the existing dome light and sunroof switch wiring. So I decided to give it a go. It was a relatively easy install, and one of my best mods yet. Step 1: I purchased the Gentex GENK40A Auto-Dimming Mirror with Homelink on Amazon (American Security Company) for $249. My kit came with a VW/Audi adapter and a free wire cover. Here is the mirror, the piece of the wiring harness that I used (it came with a full, route to fuse box wiring), and the wedge adapter. Here is a close-up of the adapter. Here is the wire cover. Step 2: Remove the old school mirror by rotating the base 90 degrees counter-clockwise. I put masking tape around the base and used channel locks and a firm grip to rotate the base 45 degrees. I continued rotating the base by hand another 45 degrees until it released. Be careful as you don’t want to break the windshield -- been there, done that on a wiper blade DIY, oops! Step 3: Slide the adapter onto the windshield button cam and secure with hex key set screw. Note that my adapter did not fit out of the box. I used a small file to remove material around the inside of the adaptor until it fit snugly around the button cam. Since the adapter is aluminum, this was easy work for a steel file. I also primed and painted my adapter matte black to make it more inconspicuous. Step 4: Plug the wiring harness into the rear of the mirror, and remove the large red harness at the other end. The color coding for the wires is as follows: (1) Red = switched power; (2) Yellow = un-switched power; (3) Black = ground; and (4) the two Green wires are not used for this mirror (they are used for other Gentex mirrors with temperature displays). Step 5: Mark the outer wire casing so that you can split it for purposes of routing the wires through the mirror base. Don’t forget to leave some slack for mirror adjustment. Step 6: Slide the mirror base over the adaptor. Tighten the mirror base set screw with a T20 Torx driver. Step 7: Now it’s time to remove the dome light / sunroof switch housing. First, remove the two black alien eyes with a plastic trim tool. Next, remove the two screws underneath the alien eyes. Then, carefully pull the end closest to the sunroof away from the headliner until the rear tabs release. To fully release the housing push it towards the windshield so the front tabs release from the mounting edge. You’ll understand when you are in there. Step 8: Identify the existing wires that you need to tap into. After testing with a test light, I used the following wires: (1) the Red/Green wire with black spots going to the sunroof switch for switched power; (2) the Red/Black wire going to the dome light circuit board for un-switched power; and the Brown wire going to the dome light circuit board for ground. Step 9: Install the wire cover by clipping it into the top of the mirror base, and route the wires from the mirror through the cover and into the dome light housing. Note the wire cover that came with my kit was way too long, so I cut it down to size. I also made a channel out of mine to cover the wire on the inside. The inside cover was cut a little shorter than the outside piece to make it easy to route the wires. The dome housing will fit over the wire cover, so thankfully there is no need to cut a whole in the housing. To make the install look cleaner from the outside, I intend to go back and use a thin strip of black film on the inside of the windshield to better hide the wire cover from the outside. You might want to try this now. Step 10: Now it’s time to make the connections. I used 22-18 gauge splice tap connectors. The connections are as follows: (1) Red to Red/Green with black spots; (2) Yellow to Red/Black; and (3) Black to Brown. I wrapped up the unused green wires with electric tape. Step 11: Reinstall the dome light / sunroof switch housing by: (1) pulling the front tabs onto the mounting edge; (2) snapping the rear tabs back into the headliner (you may need to move the wires around a bit to get a good fit); (3) replacing the screws under the alien eyes; and (4) replacing the alien eyes. Step 12: Test the install. The Homelink buttons should work when the ignition is off. Press each and you should see a red light come on. With the ignition off, the anti-dimming feature should be off. If you press the 1 button, nothing should happen. With the ignition on, you should see a green light indicating that the anti-dimming feature is on. You may need to press the 1 button the first time. It should go on and off with the ignition after that. You can verify that it is working by covering the sensor on the back of the mirror and shining a light on the sensor on the front of the mirror. I found that the mirror works really well in real life conditions. Step 13: Program the Homelink buttons with the included instructions. Step 14: Congratulations, you are done.
  23. 1 point
    Thank you, Loren. My code didn't work. I again followed the directions from FYI. Now I think I have have the correct info. 2000 Porsche boxster CPR 2081 4462 15000612 24/99 Again thank you for your support.
  24. 1 point
    Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  25. 1 point
    A real check for a mechanical diff is to lift the rear, and rotate a wheel. If the other wheel rotates too, but in the opposite direction, then it has a mechanical locking diff. I added a Guards 60/40 LSD to my 986S racecar. There are certain turns at certain tracks with poor rear grip (Homestead Miami Speedway for example) where the LSD kicks in a lot. The Boxster race cars in the Grand Am Sports Car Challenge ST Class are also using this same diff. If anyone else is thinking of adding a diff for track use, the Grand Am guys tested both the 80/20 and the 60/40. The 80/20 caused excessive understeer. The 60/40 also makes it biased to understeer, but it can be dialed out with shocks, springs and sway bar settings. If anyone is thinking about a diff for spirited street driving, the torque biasing diffs are good.
  26. 1 point
    The pink, yellow, and, green plugs. Do they have a part #?
  27. 1 point
    Hi All Below is some of what the shop manual has to say on the convertible top function. The actual trouble shooting is quite specialized because special tools are required. It sounds like you may have a faulty micro-switch I am having a problem with my top also, it is in the convertible top fully open (or down) position. When I actuate the top switch I get the click clack sound from the control module but no action. Recently I topped up the hyd fluid (as per Izzy's DIY)to correct an intermitant cab top function and the top worked perfect. I have two questions for those who have moved the top by manual method; If I put the top up by the emergency (manual) method, will the top need to be calibrated? Does anyone know if the durametric code reading software can read and clear top function codes? This is alittle long and no diagrams 911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis General information Diagnosis The monitoring of signals by the convertibletop control module enables the system to perform reliable, precise diagnosis. Further, certain additional functions, such as e.g. test of drive links and of input signals can be activated using the Porsche System Tester 2 and their function checked. General infonnation Convertible-top control Each single step of the opening/closing process is only executed on condition that the preceding step was performed correctly. If a single step is not confirmed within a given time, the actuation of the drive motor is interrupted. The fault memory can be read out and erased with the Porsche System Tester 2. The diagnostic socket is located below the knee guard on the driver's side. At the beginning of a process, the limit switch or potentiometer values have a particular configuration, which is examined by the control module. The control module monitors itself and the connected components. The results are read out via the diagnostic interface. 625_96 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 99661Dl 61-D3Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Overview of convertible-top components Rocker switch 1 2 Warning light Micro-switch, latching hook (windscreen frame) 3 Micro-switch, convertible-top latch (convertible-top side) 4 Potentiometer I convertible-top interrogation 5 6 Control module Micro-switch, convertible-top compartment lid (locked) 7 Potentiometer, convertible-top compartment lid interrogation 8 Micro-switch, left/right rear section flap up and down 9 The convertible top is actuated if: Terminal 15 is connected via ignition. The parking brake input is connected to ground (parking brake engaged), No speedometer signals greater than 5 km/h (3 mph) are present. Engine compartment lid is closed (input not at ground potential), 61 -D 7 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661Dl Fault memory Overview of possible faults 1 Switch position implausible 2 Button short to ground 3 Convertible-top pot. fault 4 CTCL pot. fault 5 Timeout error 6 Calibration necessary 7 Supply voltage 8 8 61 -D 12 6101 99661Dl Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in GenT1any -II, 1998Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes Test point 1 Switch position implausible Fault code 01 This fault is only stored in the memory when an operation has taken place (button or comfort function with the key). 1. Check response of micro-switches of rear section flaps left and right. A defective micro-switch must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 41 19 2. Check response of micro-switch in convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. Test point 2 Button short to ground Fault code 02 1. Check pin 1 to pin 4 for continuity (bitmap on "close" switch), check button pin 2 to pin 4 for continuity (bitmap on "open" switch). 2. Measure resistance of wires 1 and 2 to one another with the ohmmeter. Display 1.8 -2.0 K .0. . 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 61 -D 14(;onvertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Fault Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes OJ 0 , -. Test point 3 Convertible-top pot. fault Fault code 03 This fault is only stored in the memory if the voltage at the input of the convertible-top potentiometer exceeds or falls below the operating range. 1. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619, 9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top potentiometer at row I, pins 12, 21 and 24 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .Q appears, the convertible-top potentiometer must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 66 19 2. Switch on the ignition and measure at row 1, pins 12 and 21, with the voltmeter; nominal value (display) 0.4 -4.4 volts. If there is no voltage display, replace the control module. 3. Calibrate the convertible top Test point 4 CTCL pot. fault Fault code 04 This fault is only stored in the memory if the voltage at the input of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer exceeds or falls below the operating range. 1. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619,9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer at row I, pins I, 3 and 5 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .0. appears, the potentiometer and drive motor must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 70 19 2. Switch on the ignition and measure at row 3, pins 1 and 3, with the voltmeter; nominal value (display) 0.5 -4.4 volts. If there is no voltage display, replace the control module. 3. Calibrate the convertible top 61 -D 15 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshootin~~, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661D14Convertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) 8 Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes Test point 5 Timeout error Fault code 05 This fault is only stored in the memory if an electric motor is actuated and does not reach the limit position within 6 seconds, or the potentiometers of the convertible top and CTCL do not show any change in voltage within 3 seconds. To check the micro-switch input signals, select the input signals which appear in the menu: Latch locked, Latch unlocked, Convertible top, Convertible-top compartment lid side flaps, Latching hook. Actuate the micro-switch manually (press it) to read the response in the bitmap positions of the tester display. -;~ 0 192_98 If the convertible top is between "Convertible top closed" and "Convertible top forward" and if the "Convertible top raised" input is connected to ground (contact for micro-switch of convertible-top latch does not lie against the top edge of the cowl panel and does not switch), examine the tension of the convertible-top covering using the left and right tension cables or, if necessary, loosen by 1 or 2 turns so that the contact lies against the top edge of the cowl panel and switches. Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 6101 99661D14 61 -D 16911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes 193_98 If the convertible top is in the forward position (diagram) on closing, check the response of the micro-switch -unlocked or not unlocked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 194_98 If the convertible top is in the rear position (diagram) on opening, check the response of the micro-switch -unlocked or not unlocked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 61 -D 17 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 99661D14Fault, Fault code Possible causes, elimination, notes 195_98 If the convertible top is in the centre front position (diagram) on closing, check the response of the micro-switch -not locked or locked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 8 196_98 If the convertible top is in the centre rear position (diagram) on opening, check the response of the micro-switch -not locked or locked (small diagram) -in the convertible-top latch. If the micro-switch is defective, replace the convertible-top latch. 61 -D 18 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top911 Carrera (996) Convertible-top diagnosis 197_98 If the convertible top is in the closed position (diagram) and the latching hook has been actuated, check the response of the convertible top (CTCl) micro-switch or adjust the Bowden cable of the central locking hook in such a way that the micro-switch switches. A defective micro-switch must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 81 19 If the convertible top remains in a position not described here: 6. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619,9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top compartment lid potentiometer at row 3, pins I, 3 and 5 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .0. appears the potentiometer and drive motor must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 7019 7. Switch ignition off and remove ignition key. With test adapter 9619, 9636 and pin template 9636, measure the resistance of the convertible-top potentiometer at row 1, pins 12, 21 and 24 with the ohmmeter. If the display 00 .Q appears, the convertible-top potentiometer must be replaced. Refer to Servo No. 61 66 19 61 01 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -11, 1998 99661D14 61 -D 19 Printed inConvertible-top diagnosis 911 Carrera (996) Test point 6 Calibration necessary Fault code 06 This fault is stored in the memory after 1000 actuations or if fault code 03, convertible-top pot. fault, or fault code 04, CTCL pot. fault, is entered. 1. Read out and delete actuation counter 2. 2. A newly installed control module has not been calibrated. 3. Proceed as described in test points 3 or 4. 4. Calibrate the convertible top Test point 7 Supply voltage Fault code 07 1. Check the battery or alternator. 2. Inspect the plug connection on the control module for corrosion, 8 8 6101 99661D14 Diagnosis/troubleshooting, convertible top Printed in Germany -II, 1998 61 -D 20 Germany -11, 1998
  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.