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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A couple of days ago my head unit started cycling off and on every minute or so. I found some posts that these things are notorious for failing so I started looking for a place that would repair it. Luckily I found the Becker office in Saddle Brook NJ, called them, and they emailed me instructions how to fix it. Apparently my XM SAT provider caused the problem. It required a reboot as per below: WARNING It was brought to our attention, that the PCM 3.0 and 3.1 units have been rebooting continuously on a number of Porsche vehicles at the moment. It seems that a signal was sent by SiriusXM which has caused this issue. SiriusXM and Porsche are investigating currently and are working on a fix. VERY Important: Please DO NOT replace any parts or hardware on a vehicle, due to this issue. In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes These instructions can also be found in the respective Owner’s Manuals for affected vehicles. Hopefully this may prevent Dealership / workshop visits. If your vehicle is already at the workshop, recommend that the technician update it to the latest available software level. **PLEASE NOTE: Performing a PCM Hard Reset will also erase all of the radio presets and Bluetooth connections and these will have to be reentered by you after the reset.** In order to rectify this issue, you will perform a “PCM handover” (also known as a PCM Hard Reset). Instructions are listed below; Press and hold the PCM>>Info button for approximately 10 seconds until the PCM reboots. Immediately select the following from the PCM; CAR>>OPTION>>Set PCM System>>Reset PCM>>Vehicle Handover>>Yes>>Yes WARNING Reboot for PCM 3.1.docx
  2. 2 points
    OK, first of all, either twisting wires together and wrapping them with tape, or using wire nuts is totally unacceptable for automotive applications. Both are pathways to shorts and even fires. Wires should be reconnected with crimp connectors at a minimum, with soldering them and then using heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints the actual preferred method. Most likely, in the process of doing this swap, you disturbed something, but exactly what is hard to say, particularly as the previous owner used the twisted wire and tape wrap method of connecting things. It is entirely possible that you may have pulled another such "MacGyver" like repair loose that is not related to the radio swap. Probably the best approach at this juncture is to get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to see what the various communication modules are doing. Good luck with this one.
  3. 1 point
    The order sounds correct to me. Check the spark plug for cracks (including hairline cracks).
  4. 1 point
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  7. 1 point
    Forgot to make final update. The car is up and running well. To summarize, had to replace multiple parts: broken plastic pipes that the splintered serpentine belt broke (3 of them by radiator) Repair coolant leak at back of engine (where the coolant vent Y line connects to the rubber hose) Replace power steering pulley (cracked when I installed replacement belt, you guessed it, ruined the belt too) Belt tensioner Belt tentioner pulley Replace serpentine belt itself, twice (first replacement split once power steering pulley broke Replaced valve cover seals Replaced cracked coolant splitter pipe (going into front of engine) Replace oil cooler pipe (since it came with part #6 already) Repaired a cracked wiring harness for injector #2 (was damaged during the job - brittle and one wire frayed, shorting the wire to other side of injector harness - bad thing - battery short) Most of it was very easy, just time consuming to get to, as cayenne turbo is famous for stuffing all sorts of ungodly wires all in a tiny space. Hardest part was waiting for the parts to arrive, after issues diagnosed. After I repaired everything, car would not start. Thought it was battery, but turned out to be injector wire shorting. Once I rewrapped harness, issue went away and all great. Battery was also leaking slightly so I had it replaced with new one under warranty. DONE. Now, have few small sensor things to replace and it will be better than new.
  8. 1 point
    The install is great news GSpence2, i’m sorry to hear about your O2 issues. Hopefully you’ll get them resolved soon. I did the intercooler upgrade at the same time as a tune so I couldn’t tell who the real boost hero there is. I'm guessing both because the car pegs the boost at .8 at WOT every time now which would be the tune but it holds it well thanks to those big intercoolers. Good luck and please keep us posted. Joel
  9. 1 point
    Thanks, I will have a go during lock-down, gives me something to do!
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Good morning. 1999 996 manual C2. Planning on changing the transmission oil. I know the Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90) is the recommended by Porsche but is hard to find and whomever has it is about US$40.00 per liter. Shopping arround found this: Mobil Delvac Synthetic Gear Oil 122035 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM Find Mobil Delvac Synthetic Gear Oil 122035 and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing! Mobil Delvac Synthetic Gear Oil is engineered to meet the most demanding extended drain and warranty requirements. It's designed for use in heavy-duty drivetrains that require gear lubricants with... For what I understand is the same product. Also, Is Motul a reliable quality lubricant brand?
  12. 1 point
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  14. 1 point
    Auto's en lichte commerciële voertuigen AFTERMARKET.ZF.COM Personenauto's This is the catalog of the transmission manufacturer, country and language can be changed if necessary.
  15. 1 point
    Not unusual, it is located near the power steering pump reservoir, and the dust can collect vapor from the pump, which can get quite hot when running.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Thank you for updating and information.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Sorry for the delay, but the Virus has made things upside down everywhere around New York. Hope it's not too bad in Cleveland.:) I think I found some initial pics that can help you get started in solving the problem with your top... Here is a series of photos on my '97 Boxster when it still had the original "A Version", all metal housing transmissions. I think that if you put your clamshell manually to this exact position, and then duplicate the position of the V-levers and other parts, you will have an excellent starting point. Forgot to mention what the red arrow and the yellow arrow are pointing to in the last photo posted(367.38 kB)..Red is pointing to the "fat washer" under the 10mm bolt which in turn holds down the small flat bushing/sleeve (Yellow arrow pointing to joint) that keeps the overall length of the pushrod in its set position. Of course that has a major effect on the position/attitude that the leading edge of the convertible top will have when it is in its pre-latching (or immediately post-latching) position. A relatively tiny difference in overall length will also have a relatively drastic effect on whether that "final" position ends up correctly aligned or whether the leading edge of the top goes past its forwardmost position and then starts to retract...then making it impossible to latch the top securely. To achieve a finer adjustment, don't loosen the 10mm with fat washer, use each 360 degree turn or rotation of the plastic ball cup on the forward end of the pushrod to change the overall length of the pushrod. Let me know if that works, otherwise I can look for some more. Regards, Maurice.
  20. 1 point
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  23. 1 point
    Just to let you all know, you were right. I needed a different diagnostic tool to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. I ended up using an autel system which I can reccomend thoroughly! Many thanks.
  24. 1 point
    Good info. Thanks. I was able to find a recently salvaged 996 with 23000 miles for $7000... I’m going to roll the dice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    We have a member here that has a 996 with a small block Chevy in it, he summed up the experience by saying he would not do it again...……………...
  26. 1 point
    View this tutorial 955/957 rear seat latch replacement I believe it's a fairly common issue, but granted that I've only been around these Cayennes for a short while. Failure modes: 1-Unable to release latch to tilt seat-back forward, failure to unlatch. 2-Seat latch fails to secure seat-back in the upright position, failure to latch For me, I was running into failure mode #2. When pushing the seat-back up it would not latch no matter how hard I tried. I sourced a new-used replacement from ebay. The parts between 955 and 957 are interchangeable. Unsure about 958. Tools required: -torx bit/driver/key, T20 I believe, or T25 -triple square bit, I forget the size but can update later -wrench that fits triple square bit, I used a ratchet with a 13mm socket Step 1: Remove two torx screws, T20 I believe. The first screw is partially hidden by the latch lever, pivot the lever and remove the screw. The second screw is installed from the side, in the opening of the plastic latch cover. The plastic on my cover had cracked around where the screw was inserted, so it is shown here after removal. The entire plastic cover assembly is now free and is removed by sliding up along the same axis as the first screw. If you are experiencing failure mode 1, at this point you should inspect your plastic cover assembly. It is possible that three tabs on the lever can break off as shown here. If this is the case, you simply need to replace that part and not the entire latch. The latch assembly is held on by two triple-square screws which are visible once the plastic cover is removed. Remove these screws and the latch will be come loose. Then there is a plastic clip that holds the upholstery to an edge of the latch, shown front and center in this photo, that simply pulls off. The latch, removed from the seat back. Here is the top of the latch, this cup with the three slots corresponds to the latch handle that should have three tabs. Another option for failure mode #1 is that the latch itself had a broken component, there is a 2-prong fork that should cover the front and back side of this post, as you can see the rear prong is broken off. That post is connected to the cup, which the lever is assembled to. So when you pull back on the lever to release the seat back, it turns the cup, and rotates the post against the fork, which releases the latch. In my circumstance it seems as if it was a 2-part problem. My fork was broken, but when I purchased the truck my problem was failure mode #2, not being able to latch it. My theory is that the broken part of the fork lodged itself into the latch and prevented it from securing properly. Next, reassemble with new or used parts that are not broken. It's pretty self explanatory here with the exception of lining up the plastic cover/lever assembly. You need to pull the lever as if you were disengaging the latch, and then feed the plastic cover assembly down ensuring that the round 3-prong section aligns with the 3-slot cup. I have heard that there is some adjustment you can do with the post that this latch connects to, the post mounted into the chassis itself. Adjustment here, if it does exist, would move it slightly so that the latch would travel further over the post and enable it to latch. Upon testing my new latch worked fine so I didn't explore this option. Finally, you want to keep that latch working well. From now on when you want to release the seat-back, first push the seat-back back and then while holding it pull the lever to release. This puts far less strain on the release mechanism and will prolong it's life. Author optimusglen Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 11/15/2018 10:46 AM  
  27. 1 point
    DIY tutorial to remove center console and replace stock shifter with a Numeric shifter. I completed this modification on my 2010 C4S. Center Console Removal and Shifter Replacement.pdf
  28. 1 point
    Have your friend look into Michelin Super Sports (I have these on my 991S) or the newer PS4s. Both great tires, and some are becoming "N" rated, though that's not exactly required.
  29. 1 point
    Greetings to 981 Forum members. (This posting is revised to correct the year and model of my friends Boxster GTS.)(and again to note car is a 981.) I have a friend who went to Germany and came home with a 2015 Boxster GTS. He has asked me about new tires and I could only tell him about my adventures with my 911SC and 996 C4S. What is the current thought re putting new tires on the Boxster? Anyone? Anyone? Does anyone have a positive, or for that matter a negative opinion, on replacement tires. My friend intends to put on 4 tires and I've advised him not to mix and match manufacturers. I run Michelin PS2's, N3, on my C4S and like them way better than any others. Cheers to all...
  30. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. (Special thanks to Chuck Jones for being the guinea pig and for taking the photos.) Parts you will need: 997.624.113.00 Actuator Tools you will need: Very short Torx T20 driver and right angle ratchet or tool to use the short T20 in a very confined space Regular screwdriver, phillips screw driver, and 10 mm wrench to remove th wheel well liner 1. Jack the car so that right front wheel is off the ground and secure it with a jack stand. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the wheel well liner by removing the the plastics rivets (pry them out with a regular screwdriver). As well remove the 10 mm nuts on each side of the axle. Now remove the phillips screws that fasten the wheel well liner under the front bumper and remove the wheel well liner (and set aside). 3. Locate the EVAP canister and remove the electrical connection at the top of the canister. Now remove the 10 mm nut that holds the canister in place. Remove gas the vapor lines - one at the top and one at the bottom (again by squeezing the connectors). Remove the EVAP canister by pulling gently back and forth until it releases from the rubber gromments 4. Look back up under the fender (now that the canister is out of the way) and locate the broken actuator. Now using the stubby Torx T-20 loose (but do not remove) the two T-20 screws. The actuator itself is a bit tough to get to and you will need a really short T-20 Torx head to loosen the two screws. I say loosen because that is all you need to do to remove the part - it sits in two "U" shaped slots. Remove the electrical connector (by squeezing the tab). Here is a pic of the new part - as you see the Torx screws are already in place so that is all you have to do to replace it. 5. Put the new part in place making sure you feed the emergency pull line through the fender to its location in the door jam. There is room to slide it through the side so you don't need to try and thread it through the hole. Fasten the two Torx screws and reconnect the electrical connector. Chuck's car had the guide rose guide piece missing (so he needed to order one) Here is a pic of his car (without guide rose) and my car (with guide rose). Ref. P/N 997.624.505.00 We also noticed that on his car the plastic catch for the lock was missing (so he needed to order that too). Here is a pic of his car (without cap) and my car (with cap). Ref. P/N 996.201.243.00 6. Reinstall the EVAP canister by pushing it into place on the rubber gromments. Then reattach the vapor lines (they should snap back into place) and the electrical connection. Finally put the 10 mm nut back in place and tighten down. 7. Reinstall the wheel well liner (reverse of removal). 8. Mount the tire, lower the car and re-torque the wheel bolts. Done.
  31. 1 point
    I have the complete factory instructions in pdf format for this from PIWIS. PM me & I'll send them. I retrofitted the entire system no worries from these instructions including factory wiring/switch/dealer coding. The wiring (not the switch replacement) & getting to the boxster engine/installing the vacuum lines is the hardest part. Exhaust bolt in is simple. I wanted the whole factory deal.
  32. 1 point
    The Boxster has 6 drains to check. They are black and look like little donuts or grommets. There are 2 in the front on either side of the battery and 4 in the back. Raise your clamshell and you will see one at the bottom on either side of the black plastic liner. Easily seen when you have the top part way open and there's also one on either side of the channel almost below the front tip of the clamshell by the door jam. Here is a link to Mike Focke's website with more info regarding Boxster drains. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram
  33. 1 point
    Opinions on this combination? I am especially concerned the guards red belts might be just enough different from the somewhat burgundy top to "clash".
  34. 1 point
    Because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler mounted on the side of the gearbox instead of running trans fluid lines all the way to the radiators, there is literally no way to use a power flushing system on them. So you are limited to draining 3-4 liters out when you drain the pan and swap out the filter. Doing multiple refills and dumps will help clean out a trans that has not been serviced properly for some time. Once you have got the system cleaned out, a better regimen would be to do at least an annual trans fluid dump (changing the filter every other year), so that you are constantly replenishing at least some of the fluid and removing some of the collected crud. We do this for several customers every season when he cars are being prepped for winter hibernation.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    As for additional information on the PCM, there 'might' be a few things, it will allow for the USB connection as already know but in addition to this the display will show and allow the section of the audio files on the USB making song selection a bit more user friendly. The other thing that has been alluded to but not confirmed is the ability to laod MP3's onto the PCM's hard drive for play back when no auxilary device is attached. The reason I said 'alluded to' is that it is appearently mentioned in the later version of the PCM manual but now one that I know has confirmed this actually works or is a feature that will be coming with a subsequent release of PCM firmware. Of course there may also be additional things to access on the PCM like log data for trips if other options are chosen, the complete integration of Blue Tooth musical stream may or may not depend on the PCM option as well. The stock sound sysytem can be described as adaquet, the ability of that system while the top is up should be fine, but with the top down may be a bit taxed to provide some reasonable sound enjoyment. I know that this may not be a concern to some, but coming from my 2006 and the base audio system, I know that when the top goes down the radio went off, it just couldn't keep up! So the Bose options was 'checked'. So PCM, in the end it was a tough decision to make, expensive too, but I decided there was enough tangible and possible uses and abilities that the PCM would provide that made checking yet another option box 'necessary'. ;) Besides, although you can add this later given the upgrade cost and hassle you probably won't. So I am in... on both.
  37. 1 point
    991-631-155-02 Direction Indicator Light (left) -- US MSRP $32.74 991-631-156-02 Direction Indicator Light (right) -- US MSRP $32.74 Your bulb should already be white so just change out the lens/socket assembly.
  38. 1 point
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Tools you will need: Crimping tool Soldering Iron Hot airgun (or hair dryer) Parts For MY99-MY01 use: 996.616.101.00 For MY02 and newer use: 996.616.141.00 Heat shrink tubing (fairly large) Electrical tape (optional) Note: The ballast resistor is available as a spare part and can be replaced by crimping it onto the old wires. 1. Disconnect the battery and cover the terminal or battery. 2. Unclip ballast resistor from the holder from below. 3. Cut off wires approx. 30 mm behind the old ballast resistor. 4. Slide heat-shrink tubing over the wires to the plug connections (2x) and to the fan motor (1x). 5. Shorten wires of the new ballast resistor to approx. 30 mm and strip approx. 5 mm of insulation off all wire ends. 6. Using a commercially available crimping tool, join the wires with crimp connectors. 7. After crimping, solder the crimp connectors. Slide heat-shrink tubing over the crimp connectors and then shrink the tubing with a hot airgun. 8. Carefully route the wires and, if necessary, fix in place with plastic tape.
  39. 1 point
    The Transmission manufacturer is ZF, the attache file is the recommended fluids for the 5HP19 transmissions. I changed my ATF in my 1999 Tiptronic car and used the VW Audi fluid. Its all the same Oil just repckaged for each dealer. AUDI, Porsch, BMW etc. The place where I purchased my fluid is ETY Parts in LA thier email: ETYPARTS@AOL.COM 1.877.ety-part (Toll Free) 323.254.7442 (Local) Here is the ATF link. http://catalog.etyparts.com/item.wws?sku=G...mp;clientid=ety P.S. I decided to use the factory ATF inlieu of an after market such as Penzoil because this is what ZF recommends period. It was about a 2 hour get dirty type job, Im going to change mine once a year from now on. D_Man ZF_approved_Transmission_Fluids.pdf
  40. 1 point
    Yes, the Tip in the 3.6 liter Carrera is the same as the TT.
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