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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/07/2021 in all areas

  1. You can get a set of small "ez out" hex bits, one of which should fit tightly into the bolt head while rotating counter clockwise, which will loosen the stripped fastener. Amazon and others sell them (Amazon screw/bolt extractor set)
    3 points
  2. The headlights look fine to me.... people obsessing over headlights and BS like that are what makes the 996TT still one of the best cars out there, pound-for-pound, dollar-for-dollar
    1 point
  3. Welcome to RennTech Anyone that has spent any time running back to back dyno test of various hardware on a single vehicle would tell you the +/-3 HP run to run should be considered experimental error more than proof of anything, as well as rarely reproducible; and that dyno results on totally different brands of vehicles are not comparable. But it is your car and your money, and if you are happy with your choice of air filters, enjoy.
    1 point
  4. Perhaps but SD slot is in back so it's awkward to switch it out. I think better possibility may be similar to audi or Lamborghini maps. I think first thing is to see if it can be copied so one can have archive
    1 point
  5. To answer my own post - a while after posting, I found a local transmission shop that had the smarts to figure out the problem. The guts of my transfer case was made by Borg Warner according to the transmission shop. I found replacement seals and belt at NP 235 Transfer Case Kits | Cobra Transmission COBRATRANSMISSION.COM Are you looking for the best NP 235 Transfer Case Kits for sale? Shop all NP 235 Transfer Case parts today at Cobra Transmission. The noise I was hearing was due to the belt stretching out over the years, and hitting the inside
    1 point
  6. As I have said before "if ain't broke...". As well, you might want to check the price and labor of replacing just the troublesome one.
    1 point
  7. Thanks JFP, cleaned those out this spring and they were a mess. Not real active on this forum, mainly a lurker, but really appreciate your info you provide here and elsewhere. I just completed a full suspension refresh, and have spent way more than I paid for the car restoring it to her glory, but runs and drives like a new one and plan to keep it for a long time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. Likely the valve lift solenoid if you have checked the wiring.
    1 point
  9. Fault code 2039 - Potentiometer, transfer box Possible causes of fault - 'Short circuit to B+': signal line of potentiometer '1/2' (sensor 1/2) short circuit to B+ (12 V) - 'Short circuit to B+': transfer box control unit faulty - 'Open circuit/short circuit to ground': signal line of potentiometer '1/2' (sensor 1/2) open circuit or short circuit to ground - 'Short circuit to ground': potentiometer faulty - 'Open circuit/short circuit to ground': transfer box control unit faulty - 'Implausible signal': potentiometer faulty Fault code 2053 - Transfer box control
    1 point
  10. Hi all, Hoping to provide some clarity on replacing the crankshaft position sensor on a 986 WITH Tiptronic transmission as I have not seen (or was unable to find) any good/clear pictures of the process to find the sensor. As I found out, it is hiding well behind the plug/receptacle for the Oxygen sensor on the right side of the vehicle. I read all kinds of guides pointing me to the correct general location, but they all pretty much said it was obvious and I knew exactly what I was looking for. I spent well over an hour searching because I could not see it, and found out that on a Tiptr
    1 point
  11. Welcome to RennTech P2177 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 1 (FRAU1) – Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air) - Incorrect main charge signal from MAF sensor - Fuel pressure too low - Fuel injector(s) mechanically faulty (sticks) - Volume supply of fuel pump too low P2179 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Lower Load Range, Bank 2 (FRAU2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Intake air system leaking - Leaking exhaust system (draws fresh air
    1 point
  12. Could be a sign that the DME has a RoW tune in it rather than the North American code.
    1 point
  13. Adding to this with a couple others I found. Thanks again finally got the job done. 👍
    1 point
  14. I would replace with a new PCCM plus. I just completed mine. It is a great upgrade over your current PCM. Cost is about $1300.
    1 point
  15. P1467 Radiator fans 2: Mechanical fault Possible fault causes: Radiator fans 2 stiff or blocked Radiator fans 2 Faulty
    1 point
  16. 991 S (both C2S and C4S) Front new: 34 mm minimum (after machining): 32.6 mm wear limit: 32.0 mm Rear new: 28 mm minimum (after machining): 26.6 mm wear limit: 26.0 mm
    1 point
  17. I don't know where you got your price quote, but you can buy the Stant pressure tester (STA 12270) for $72.38 on Amazon, or $69.78 at ToolTopia. As for Porsche adaptors, there are two; 12016 will test the vehicle and sells for about $40; 12017 will test the cooling system cap, and sells for about $10. I have two of the Stant testers, and an entire case full of adaptors to fit just about anything, and I didn't pay anywhere near $500 for everything.......................
    1 point
  18. :welcome: Start by checking the fuses Also, sometimes when there is a short (like with your visor) it corrupts the memory in the control unit. In these cases the control unit needs to be re-programmed with a Porsche PIWIS tester.
    1 point
  19. Sunset Imports is NOT a Rennlist sponsor -- they ARE a RennTech.org sponsor ;)
    1 point
  20. First of all, I want to commend Loren for the GREAT DIY instructions here. I have never done a DIY project, and this was my first. I printed out the text and the pictures and had them on a table next to me...and went right down the line. Having no experience in this sort of thing, the one thing you lack is CONFIDENCE...the fear of messing something up. No sweat, you can get thru this. What I did that isn't covered here is order another sensor that comes out of the bottom of the coolant tank. You can break this by catching it on hoses and wiring...so an extra is a nice insurance policy to
    1 point
  21. 2002 C2 Cab Just got done replacing my coolant tank. I found that I needed to lower the engine about 3 " in order to fit the larger coolant tank into the cavity. Once I lowered the engine it poped right in and everything was connected and tight within 20 minutes.
    1 point
  22. I would add the following to help others attempting this ... please read the above and the below completely BEFORE starting your work. You'll thank yourself ! Getting the tank out I'd remove the air pump instead of tying it to the side as above. Its very simply and takes 30-40 seconds. It gives you room you REALLY need. Plus you won't break the air hose by bending it too much. NOTE: There are two screws that hold the air pump in place - at the bottom. In my case I found out that the nut thse screws go into had fallen off during removal. The nuts are 'suspended' in a rubber tube and age/temp
    1 point
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