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Blue/white marking are stock springs. For factory Sport Suspension you will need new springs, stuts, and swaybars. RoW Sport Suspension Package for 3.2S 6 speed - Carnewal WWW.CARNEWAL.COM

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I waited until I could confirm my problem is solved. After asking the dealer multiple time about vacuum level measured with a digital manometer and never getting a straight answer, I spent some time talking to the tech before proceeding. According to him, the reason the car would start when cold is it was still going through the 90ish second startup sequence with secondary air injection, coupled with the vacuum leak caused by the AOS. Which, to my not-very-Porsche-tech brain kind of made sense. After getting the AOS replaced, along with a cracked brittle oil fill tube and one or two other related minor bits that were also old, cracked and or worn out, the car seems to run fine, was actually quieter than I ever remember, and the stalling problem is resolved. And no CEL since the repair. There was never any big clouds of smoke usually associated with a failing / failed AOS.

I have a '99 Carrera and I'm struggling here... I just replaced the gas filler vent valve and I was still having trouble filling. I did a search and read about re-installing the reed sensor. I pulled the fender liner and vent valve, but I can find the reed sensor anywhere. Where is the connector for the sensor? There are no loose wires anywhere to be found and I didn't tuck away or see anything dangling when I removed the original vent valve. I find this so strange.

I put it in my 2004 Turbo Cab and it works great. plug and play though playing content through your iphone is not as loud as the normal stereo... you don't have to purchase the NAV card; you can use apple carplay... works a treat. Hope that helps.

If the oil cap is hard to remove, you have a high vacuum level in the sump, which is bad for a variety of reasons, including lean stalling. The correct way to access the AOS is to fully warm up the engine by driving the car for 10-15 min, then replace the oil cap with the one in the picture above with a hose that connects to the digital manometer. If the vacuum level exceeds 6-7 inches of water vacuum, the AOS is leaking air into the intake system, causing the lean stall conditions. The normal level of vacuum is typically 4-5 inches of water, which is a really weak vacuum level, so it doesn't take much of a leak to cause problems, which is why we always checked every car that passed thru the shop with the manometer.

Manual is a huge component of my attraction to Porsche. Where I live, 2 similar spec 997.1 vs .2, the price difference is $15,000. i chose a .1 four and years ago. That 15k delta was left in the stock market (S&P 500) and has atleast doubled. Meanwhile my cars only trip to a shop has been a gashed tire caused by road debris. I’ve done all small repairs and major maintenance. (Although I have new issue today) Do you see yourself keeping this car for a year or 2? Or 10 years or more? If you plan on keeping a .1 I’d recommend the following: Swap to a low temp thermostat X51 baffle upgrade in the sump. consider upgrading AOS to aftermarket Ultimate AOS. 50 weight oil instead of factory 40 add 3rd radiator. ignore ALL internet boogeyman stories about the IMS. 2008 era, it is just another moving part. However if you ever drop engine for a clutch or rear main seal then have a seal removed such that IMS is no longer sealed and engine oil will splash in to lubricate it.

P0455 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Page 140 of 398 07/20/2006 Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module. P0456 Leakage in fuel tank system Diagnostic conditions D Vehicle speed = 0 km/h D Engine speed = 0 rpm D Correction factor, height > 0.73 D Coolant temperature upon starting the engine may be no more than 6.8 K above ambient temperature D Coolant temperature when engine starts > 3.8 °C D Period for which the engine needs to have been running before ignition is switched off > 20 minutes D Ignition has been switched off for at least 10 seconds. D Ambient temperature 4 … 35.3 °C D Active charcoal filter load < 3 for minor leak D Fuel tank fuel level 10 … 54 litres D Battery positive voltage 11.02 ... 14.5 V D No fuel tank filling D No faults detected for ambient pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, vehicle speed sensor D No output stage faults detected for DMTL pump motor, DMTL switch-over valves and tank vent D No fault detected for tank vent (flow) E The diagnostic conditions can also be established using the PIWIS Tester via the short test "tank leakage test". After the test has begun, the ignition must be switched off. F NOTE E In this context, please also observe the function description. Possible fault causes E Tank cap not closed correctly, leaking or missing E Purge air line leaking E Tank vent leaking E DMTL (Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module) leaking E Leakage in fuel tank system Function description Tank leakage test/DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module F Note E The tank leakage test is performed only on USA vehicles. Construction of the tank leakage diagnostics module: The diagnostics module consists of an electric motor with a small air pump, switch-over valves and a reference nozzle. In addition, the modul is heated so as to prevent the forming of condensation and ice. Procedure of the function: E The pump is operated via an electric motor and conveys air through the reference leak. The power consumed during this process is determined. E The switch-over valve switches and the air current is now directed into the fuel tank. The power consumed during this process is also determined. After a waiting period dependent on the fuel tank fuel level, it must be at least as high as the power consumption was during the reference leak test if the tank system is leak-free. E The system is identified to by leaking if the power consumption is lower during the actual leakage test as it was during the reference leak test. E An evaluation of the power consumption levels when the pump is started and after the switch-over valve has switched serves to identify faults within the tank leakage diagnostic module (e.g. pump blocked, motor spins at idle speed, valve does not switch etc.). E The diagnosis of heating, motor and switch-over valve is performed via the output stage of the DME control module.

Although embarrassing to air my mistake, I thought I would post this in hopes I might save someone else from the same problem: If you have adjustable coilover shocks, do not attempt to change your car's ride height unless you are doing it while corner balancing with scales. I rationalized that if I set the ride height using the factory measuring method (documented in multiple places on this site) I would get "close enough" to a balanced car for a 996 that isn't tracked. Wrong. I worked on a level floor, with a full tank of gas (per spec), new tires with factory-recommended tire pressures, using the factory-recommended ride height measurement points, drove the car a few yards after each change to settle the suspension, and after a lot of hard work I was dead on with each of the four measurements. A local indie shop, not really performance oriented, vetted my approach and said it should be fine, it's what they would do. Even after a perfect-to-the-spec alignment this morning the car pulls to the right, enough at 40 mph with hands off the wheel to change lanes in less than 50 yards. My effort was wasted and I'm out the cost of that alignment. The car goes in for a pro corner balance to correct the issue and I'll end up paying for another alignment. Lesson learned. In truth, the effort wasn't entirely wasted because I learned about the stiffness of the chassis, how even a minute change of 1mm in shock adjustment can affect all four wheels, and how each of the wheels is affected. Dialing in the ride height was a PITA but a learning experience that I believe transfers to doing a corner balance. If you install height-adjustable shocks, you must corner balance for optimal handling even if your car is a daily driver and not tracked. Bless you suspension techs who do corner balancing for a living!

They "pop" off, you can use two flat screwdrivers, a door trim clip disposer fork, or similar tool.