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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The horn beeps and lights flashing is the alarm system telling you there is a alarm system zone fault somewhere. Could be an open (or maybe in this case closed/locked when it should be open) zone. Zones are: drivers/passenger doors, trunk lid, engine lid, glass (targa) top, gas cap lid, center console lid, and if you have it the glove box door. There are also two interior sensors in the overhead that detect motion when the car is locked. I think getting to the battery and disconnecting is a good idea. However, you have a problem since the trunk is not opening. First thing to try is actually seeing if the trunk is already open. Put your fingers under the trunk lid and try pulling up. Second is to locate the emergency release cable under the passenger side headlight. Unfortunately you need to pop the headlight out to make this a simple exercise, and you can't do that without opening the trunk. So you have to pull the passenger wheel well liner and fish out the cable from behind. Hopefully your wheel lock socket is not in your trunk!
  2. 1 point
    Not the gas cap but the fuel filler door. Good that you managed to find the emergency release cable. Now do yourself a huge favor and pull the plastic piece covering the hood latch and relocate the cable to just behind the front bumper tow hook plug. It fits right in there and the next time all you have to do is pop the tow hook plug and there is the cable. Now from your description of problems, I think you should take a look at the hood release actuator. It might be the source of both problems, horn beep, stuck hood latch and it not working from the lock buttons. See Part #19 here in this parts diagram. I think you should be able to hear it click while someone operates the button. If not, then it is probably faulty. Lid Front WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    #33 is under the car along the transmission going to the heater core.
  5. 1 point
    Per the photos on Pelican of those two hoses, it looks like the one ending with "-05", which includes the small T nipple section.
  6. 1 point
    1. Durametric. 2. Minor body changes 2015-2016, 2016 GTS model, 2017 Macan 4 cylinder. 3. I do not think there have been many air suspension failures or faults since 2016. Air is more expensive than steel but also has many handling advantages. 4. No, transfer cases are pretty much it for large items and most of those are replaced under warranty. 5. The VIN will not tell you anything about the options without a report from a dealer (we can also get reports for our Contributing Members). Download the option codes list here: https://www.renntech.org/files/category/140-macan/
  7. 1 point
    It's part #18 here. There are multiple versions depends on your year and model. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=105-05
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Not necessarily, modules sometimes have to be recoded and they come back online, but not always. Sometimes they are just dead.
  12. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech I would ask your tech how he determined the AOS is bad, and what does he base his RMS/IMS seal leakage upon. 20 hours is excessive, more like 8-10 hours is realistic to pull the Tip and replace both the AOS and either the RMS or IMS seals. I would also check with another Porsche oriented shop for a second opinion.
  13. 1 point
    I have had this show up my both my CGTS and GT4. Much ado about nothing as far as I can tell. I have drained oil off by loosening the filter, or just let it go. Done several track weekends with the alert notice on. Problem is not simply overfilling, but under-draining by the car, imho. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    Check out this thread. Sunroof drain - 6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource WWW.6SPEEDONLINE.COM Cayenne Turbo - Sunroof drain - I Know this is discussed 1000 Times . Problem with clogged drains. Acces from The sunroof is easy. But i would like to Know where are this tubes ending. Where is the Exit. Somewhere in the Engine compartment? Or this Place behind the Wheel well liner? Thank you for assistance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Don't you just love these dipstick-less cars designed for millennials? On my first oil change, I over-filled it by 1.25 liters all due to the fact I did not fully understand the Oil Measurement Display. I thought the MAX level was at the top of the bar, which it isn't. The MAX level is shown in A below. Anyway, I just drained it and the level is at MAX. I also would not use a vacuum pump for the reasons mentioned.
  16. 1 point
    Then a proper programming is needed.
  17. 1 point
    If the car starts okay then that party of the coding was done. As I recall programming the door locks is separate as well as the rear hatch.
  18. 1 point
    The car has to be programmed to the Kessy fob (not the other way around). You must have the car's security codes and use a Porsche PIWIS tester. There is no other way that I am aware of. You need to find a shop with a Porsche PIWIS tester and then you as the legal car owner needs to go a Porsche dealer and request your security codes - you may be required to show proof of ownership.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Please READ the Lost Radio Code FAQ and follow the procedure there to get your serial number - then post your request here.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Mice and rats can get just about anywhere in the harness, you simply have to get a good light and start tracing wires. I'd start with the engine bay and any wires under the vehicle first as they are the most accessible to the rodents.
  23. 1 point
    Does the car have a new (main) battery?
  24. 1 point
    I would start looking at the wiring harness for rodent damage or just age cracking of the insulation on the wires.
  25. 1 point
    i would ensure emergency blinkers are on and engine is off when you clear faults in all modules.
  26. 1 point
    LONG STORY SHORT,,...My entry and drive system went bad one day., after almost a year of testing , replacing the battery, buying the test tool, almost brought a china piwis ,.... and bringing it to dealer and 800 dollars of dealer time., I had it fixed for 5 Dollars in parts. and one hr of soldering at first my kessy do not communicate to the darmatic tool or PIWIS at all, the dealer went ahead try to replace it , with a superseeded module, HOWEVER they wasn't able to program it for unknown reason, there is no module out there that will take my car's pin and complete the marry process because they said all the module has been superceeded. The dealer offer me to replace ALL the module in the car to an updated version for a cheapo $3000 dollars.! OF COURSE I refused,. ...,. I only lost my alarm horn , entry and drive function and its not worth $3000 dollars,. I was investigating myself trying to see what causing the problem, I came in to the touareg forum and found out those guys there have a lot of the problems with their module too. ... I was like ,hum.,,. then go under my dash and found the kessy module that is EXACTLY the same as theirs including the part number (WHICH IS A VW part number stamped on a sticker btw).... there is one guy there that took his module to a local electrician and found he has 2 fried mofset and 6 fried resistors.!!! I was like, fxxx it, why don't I give it a try, at first I couldn't found the 0.22ohm resistors (its was HARD trust me I took almost 2 months looking for them)., so I went ahead replaced the two mofset........... 15 mins and a lot of smoke later....... MAN,,,... the module can communicate with my Durametic tool...! HOWEVER,, all the antennas are reporting short to ground ERROR!!! I tried to clear it but the code come back instantly. then I went on to test the resistor value,... and found all six of the 0.22ohm resistors are SHORT (they are fusible resistor btw)....,,. sooooo I tried my best and finally able to locate those 0.22 ohm resistor .., fast forward 2 months later............ I received those resistors today.............. another 15 mins of smoke and sweat with my resoldering station... I plug the module back... run the scan tool clean the fault codes!!!!................... moment of truth,, I plug my dummy key in to the key cyclinder with the real key in my pocket!!!!!!!!!!!!! turn and the CAR STARTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have successfully fixed a $3000 dollars repair (that don't guarantee will work) with 5 dollars worth of resistors !!!!!! NOTE: IF your kessy don't communicate with the scan tool,. Its the TWO MOFSET that is Fried. if you have all antennas short to ground or not responding its the 6 resistors!
  27. 1 point
    Just acquired my first Cayman, a 2012 R. First impressions are I love it, very impressed.
  28. 1 point
    Mine did pretty much the same, drove it into the garage, all ok, come to drive it again, one side low! Seems they have removed what little lead content there was from them (so I was informed) and they just snap! Apparently quite a well known issue in the independents world. BMW springs do the same, had a couple fail on them.
  29. 1 point
    Updated Mileage: 288,565. 2018 Round trips included NY to Seattle and NY to New Orleans. Still not driving as much as I'd like. #4 cylinder down to 75%. Trying to hold out to 300k before rebuild.
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech Before going down the LS path, you might want to talk to one or two of the forum members that have done the LS swap; general consensus is that they would never do it again.
  31. 1 point
    Glad to hear you got it sorted without splitting the case!
  32. 1 point
    Thanks again for finding that out for me. I kept fiddling with it for a couple of days in order to not have to split the cases and got it right in the end by locking the IMS by using a hex socket in it's rear end while rotating the crankshaft to make the chain sort itself out! I got lucky this time. This forum is great, so many more educational tips as compared to most other online forums!
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the PN! Doesn't look very expensive, my local dealership has it for $26 and the o-ring is less than $2. I think the thermostat is on the back of the 3.2 V6 but for the 3.6 V6 the thermostat is on the side of the engine (driver side). I know this because I replaced it during my cooling system refresh at 90k miles. However, there does seem to be a housing for something back there, I'm just not sure what it is..
  34. 1 point
    I've had the same problem in my 2008 v6. After removing the 2 bolts I saw it had a rubber gasket. Waiting for the dealership to call me when it comes in. (Was the cheapest there) It's technically for the thermostat. It's called a flange socket and sealing ring. Here's the part #'s 95510623100 Flange Socket 95510643100 Sealing Ring Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    I just resolved a window issue on my 2007 Porsche Cayman and wanted to post and help out anyone with a similar issue. My passenger side window was functioning normally except for when I closed my door the automatic window drop to clear the door seal was not returning to the complete up position and was staying down. The automatic up feature on the window was also not working. The auto-down feature worked and all other functions of the window performed normally. So to be clear, when you pulled the exterior and interior door handles the widow dropped the 10mm or 1/4 inch it should. However, upon shutting the doot the window would stay down in this position and not return up. So.... I decided to do some research and came across the "latch micro switch issue".. I figured hey part isn't that expense so I replace the latch and the issue remained. After much more research, I came across a post about that issue being caused from a faulty door motor ECU. This IS the reason for the issue. After, disconnecting the battery, taking off the door panel using numerous videos and instructions from this site and others I was able to quickly replace the motor unit with a new one that I got on ebay for $120. The motor is easy to remove, 3 screws and then just pull the motor straight out and it will disconnect from the window regulator. Next, pop in the new one and you are good to go. Finally, the issue was resolved upon reconnecting the car battery and the motor auto cycled up and down and is now functioning normally. I wanted to post this as I am hoping someone else who does a google search for a similar issue will find this and save them hundreds if not a thousand dollars from taking the car to a Porsche dealer. The part number for the motor that I used to replace the current window motor was 997.624.182.06 replacing the original part that was 997.624.182.03
  36. 1 point
    Welcome to RennTech The foam coming out the vents are the seals from the heater box diverter door seals which have dried out and are starting to fall apart. To fully repair this, you need to disconnect and drop the heater box down (it is in the passenger's side under the dash), scrape off all the old seals and replace them. Some people have simply removed them, but that allows some mixing of different air streams in the system. Do a search on the topic, it has been written up on a couple of websites.
  37. 1 point
    Please refer to this thread on Rennlist : Then the details are: This applies to the Porsche M96 with Variocam. Later Variocam Plus is not quite the same. This is a WIP that I hope others will improve. The info is gleaned from dozens of posts which I have used to put the basics in one place. Now it is your turn to improve it, add photos , links and most important – corrections . Here is my related Thread: Check the engine diagram to get the correct terminology.Confusing a Variocam actuator with a Chain Tensioner is a common mistake. When in doubt use Porsche part numbers only. Diagnosis: Without Durametric or PIWIS you will not be diagnosing.You will be guessing. Beware of cheap Fleabay knock-off cables. They run very old ,often corrupted versions of the software. This causes misdiagnosis or failure to actuate components. They have no Tech Support.A very expensive mistake to make.Pelican sell the genuine Durametric cable. Make sure you don't have other faults caused by old O2 sensors ,old plugs, vacuum leaks. Check Coil ground for 1.2.3 on the 6mm stud near the AOS is good. Clear all codes. Durametric at idle produces no codes. Increase idle speed to 2000 rpm and the 1341 reappears. This is the target identified.But the big diagnostic problem that I never solved is how to distinguish between a failed solenoid and a failed actuator without taking the cam cover off and more. Using the Durametric cable, “ACTUAL ANGLE” for Bank 1 shows no advance - a flat line or lots of small oscillations but never reaches a # near 25 degrees. Bank 2 shows 25 degrees and deviation is rock steady and within limits(6 degrees). This is the general target confirmed. Without Durametric at this stage ,you were lost ! You clear the codes and at idle activate (with Durametric) the solenoid for Bank 2 .Hear the change in engine sound? Yes. Try same on Bank 1 – no change - double confirmation. Seems like the Variocam solenoid is not functioning or the actuator ,or both ? Or the wiring or the DME. Some expensive components here so let’s do some tests. Tests: You will need to make some test cables to use in each of the tests below.AS noted below you can hack some male & female Bosch EV1 connectors to fit.I made dedicated test cables for each test to avoid the risk of arcing between probes or alligator clips. The man problem is access. On a Boxster, Bank 1 is the worst. 1. Disconnect the plug for the variocam solenoid. Test the solenoid - you are looking for approx..13.5 ohms across the 2 contacts (not to chassis ground!). 2. At the mating part of the solenoid wiring connector use a MultiMeter on the 20V scale. Connect ONLY between the 2 contacts. Do NOT connect to chassis ground. You are looking for around 10.5 volts (assuming a fully charged battery) . Yes one of the contacts is battery voltage and the other is a switched (3v)ground via the DME – but that is needlessly complicated to get into at this stage.Just look for 10.5 volts. If you get no reading - is the engine up to full operating temperature? 3. With the engine warm & idling , connect the solenoid contacts via a 12v battery (from a cordless power tool?) The engine note should change because you are advancing the valve timing on only this Bank by 20 degrees. Remove the 12v battery connection. Engine reverts to normal idle. You can make the connector and leads from an EV1 connector if you cut back the shroud/casing.A word of caution about the polarity of the test connection directly to the solenoid. First -use a fuse in the test cable . Check Bentley for the wiring diagram and be very careful to follow the same polarity. In theory it should not matter but Porsche used polarized connectors ,so we should also? A related test without Durametric is to use the same 12v source to activate the solenoid with the engine OFF, in a very quiet workshop. If the solenoid is working you should hear a 'click' every time you press the MOM switch on the test harness.This is significant because you need to understand what makes the click sound . Is it the solenoid or is it the sound of the actuator moving the timing chain or both ? I ask this question because the solenoid on the suspect Bank passed the resistance tst with 13 ohms- identical to the perfect bank(2). But the external 12v source only producced a click on the perfect bank2). The same test on Bank 1 was silent. 4. Next connect an extender cable to the supply-side connector for the Variocam solenoid.This is the wiring loom that runs above Bank 1 and connects to the DME. The terminals are roughly EV1 size but the standard EV1 shroud is too large. I used the pins/connectors from an EV1 Bosch 1 287 013 003(female) and the corresponding male pins to make an extension. The male pins could be 'hacked' by removing one leg of a 'red' fork crimp connector. Run it to the driver’s seat area. Put a Noid bulb in it. Start the engine and run to 2000 rpm. Does the light illuminate? Instead of the noid light you could use a multimeter on the 20v DC scale - to see if it flashes 10+v? This might work ? Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI Ahsai mentioned using a 12v 6w ‘peanut’ bulb instead.I used a Noid light because I had already made test harnesses thet acceted a Bosch Noid. By now you should know if the solenoid is defective or if there is a wiring /DME fault. One of the links below shows the culprit as a burnt transistor in the DME. But let’s say the wiring/DME test O.K. Note: I fabricated custom test leads for the MM to check supply voltage I also fabricated custom power jumper leads for the solenoid. These included a 10A fuse and an MOM switch. 5. There is one other very creative test kindly suggested by Jake Raby. Connect with a jumper between the 'good' bank and the suspect one.Be careful to follow the same polarity !! Consider using a fuse and MOM switch in the test cable you fabricate. Needless to say - check all your test cables for continuity before use and avoid crimp connectors - solder them ! It is a final, positive elimination of variables.This is a good test to indicate problems with the transistors in the DME(thank you Ahsai !). This would have been indicated in the prior test that measured for 10.5 volts at the Variocam connector from the DME. Note on the 5.2 DME - transistor and/or solenoid failures were more common for reasons unknown. There is so much work involved in getting to the defective unit that people often replace both the actuator and solenoid ,when only the solenoid was positively identified as defective. Conclusion: the solenoid &/or Variocam actuator are defective. Repairs This video on re-timing gives an idea of the access problems: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE_X27JSTyE Now this gets expensive and time consuming. 2001 Porsche Boxster S Convertible - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 2 The solenoid needs to be replaced, or the actuator repaired or both. You need the special tool # 9624 /P253 to hold the cams in a safe position while you do this. Read the details elsewhere . Ignoring it may break a camshaft ! The link in French below(google translate) has the dimensions for the tool. I had already bought the complete Baum engine tool kit in a case. variocam - Tuto changement solénoid variocam On Bank 1 for the Boxster the access is so restricted some mechanics cut an access hole in the firewall of the trunk ! Certainly remove the wheel ,header, plates and anything that gets in the way ! Check elsewhere for the special sealant and gaskets required and the ‘while you are in there’ jobs like spark plug tubes/seals. Read Wayne's write up project again! This is the best write up/photo of timing the M96 by Insite, DIY: Setting Cam Timing on M96 Lock the engine with the 8mm bolt in the c/s pulley and lock the cam with the special tool 9624 or ‘French’ equivalent. Place all bolts carefully in a cardboard template (see French link again !) Some of the bolts are different lengths and if you muddle them you will be helicoiling! Remove cam cover. Note no gasket ! But a lot of sealant to remove with a PLASTIC scraper. Find the instructions on how to lay a bead no more than 2mm wide when replacing the cover. Use the correct sealant ! See Wayne’s article for more. Porsche Boxster Camshaft Upgrade / Chain Tensioner Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article 2001 Porsche Boxster S Convertible - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 4 Replacing the $200+ solenoid is now simple. Careful not to crimp the wires during reassembly. Now you can do a visual check of the actuator. Connect 12v to the solenoid contacts. Does the actuator jump about 1/8 “ ? Can you feel the click in the solenoid. So is the solenoid defective or the actuator? If you need to remove the actuator it gets more complicated. The actuator needs to be compressed a little to remove. In theory you can use 5mm x 0.8mm (verify !) threaded rod and deep nuts on the older Boxsters. The newer (post 2000?) changed to LEFT hand threads ! I found the necessary L.H. parts- Brass rod, L.H. die nut, L.H. nuts on EBay but waited for months for them to arrive from China ! In theory you can use high quality zip ties but access is so difficult that you may struggle to achieve enough compression of the actuator. Much easier with the engine on a stand ! On the bench you can repeat the test for the actuator and confirm with a new solenoid. If the actuator seems weak or can be easily compressed or is locked rock solid -it perhaps can be dismantled and cleaned- but I could find no info on this. If it has high miles it may be better to replace it ? If you are curious about repairing an actuator,no,it can't be done -see here: http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/83599.phtml This is interesting because it hints at a diagnosis - an oscillating part that would produce an oscillating readout on the Durametric graph. It is a pity Audi actuators do not fit. They are $200 or less ! The part # for the complete assembly for Bank 1 is : 996-105-051-58 Bank 2 (4.5.6) is 996-105-053-58. Do not confuse - just 1 digit difference.Note - these numbers supersede prior lower numbers.Be careful to confirm if the actuator you buy does/does NOT include the solenoid. Some sloppy vendors list the part number for the combo actuator+solenoid but do NOT include a solenoid - if you study the very fine print in the parts diagram alongside their ad.Be sure you order correctly - these $1000+ parts are often not returnable ! Tests with the camshaft cover off Before you just replace parts here are a few tests to do. First watch a video to see what it should look like- start at 5minutes in this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml5wltlM-cw Check for slack chains. It may be that the chain tensioner(not the Variocam actuator) has failed. If the engine has just been rebuilt, perhaps the new chain tensioner was not installed correctly. Use the solenoid test lead to make the actuator 'jump'. The actuator should jump in the direction of the crankshaft when you hit the Mom button on the test lead.At rest it moves the opposite direction.See video cited above. Suppose the Solenoid Passed the 13 ohms test, failed the click test and the actuator fails the visual test with the MOM switch. Which part has failed - the Actuator ,the Solenoid or both? Suggesting that you substitute a known good solenoid is probably impractical. You may have to just use probability and buy a new one and try it. If the actuator still fails to jump, even with a new solenoid, you are going to have to remove the actuator and test it on the bench. In theory you can try to purge the oil out of it and look for debris or blockage. But realistically ,after all this work it is probably better to just buy a new one.BTW the pin on the Solenoid should jump about1/16".
  38. 1 point
    So, again in an effort to help others that might look for this in the future: 996 GT3, Airbag Light and Durametric fault " Code 30, ignition circuit - side airbag, passenger". Side airbag = door airbag: There was nothing wrong with it, the connector was good, and I also electrically swapped a spare airbag that I had, but the fault remained. Knowing the issue was coming from that circuit, and since I had disconnected the door and the controller when I stripped the car, I looked at both of those, looking for a bent pin, or? I expected the door connector to be the bad player since it's a bit less straightforward to connect and disconnect than the controller. While trying to identify the relevant pins on the big connector at the door jam to wring out the wires, I noticed that, with the connector off, the two pins/wires for the door airbag were shorted together (no doubt a shunt to prevent accidental airbag deployment when the connector is not connected). I also noticed that, in the connector, right next to the two pins, there was a small rectangular slot that matched a small plastic piece on the mating connector. At first I thought that it was an alignment device, but there was more to it than that, because there was a small piece of metal in the slot. While ohming the two airbag pins, I shoved a pick in the slot and suddenly, the two shorted pins/wires were no longer shorted, meaning that THE PLASTIC PIECE HAS TO BE ALL THE WAY INTO THE RECTANGULAR SLOT so that the circuit is in an acceptable state for the airbag controller. So again, even if the connector appears to be connected, you need more than just the pins to be in contact, you need the plastic tab to be all the way in to the slot. These pins and slot are part of a sub-connector within the main door connector and the sub-connector is somewhat free to move a bit. I made sure that it was all the way in and now my airbag light is gone. I'm sitting in the car with the laptop, having gone back in with the Durametric to clear the code, and decided to tell my story. Hopefully it can help someone. Case closed :)
  39. 1 point
    Hi everyone. A couple of days ago, the PSM & ABS warning lights lit up on my 2001 Carrera. A quick search on this Forum suggested a faulty brake pedal switch. Checked my brake lights and sure enough, no lights so a faulty switch is definitely indicated. After about 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash, managed to get it out. Sure enough, the switch has an open circuit. Bought a new switch and plugged it into the harness. Tested the plunger on the switch to see if the brakes lights work - but they did not. However, no PSM/ABS lights showing which is an improvement. Seemed odd to me but I have seen stranger on this car so I press ahead. Another 30 minutes of twisting my body under the dash and finally re-installed the new switch under the pedal. But now the PSM/ABS lights turn on again and still no brake lights! Back to square one! Removed the switch (now it takes me only 5 minutes to twist my body under the dash) and check it out. Checks out perfectly. And NO PSM/ABS lights with the switch plugged in but not installed under the pedal. Hmmmm. Check fuses and all the usual stuff. Everything fine. Thought about the brake light bulbs but what are chances of all 3 brake lights burned out all at once??? Surely at least one of them should be working so I can at least tell whether the brake light circuits are OK. Seriously considering taking the car to the dealer. Reinstall the switch under the pedal (I can now do that in less than 30 seconds of twisting). Check the driver side brake light bulb. It's burned out! Check the passenger side bulb. That is also burned out. Check the centre brake light - that one is OK. So why don't I at least have a centre brake light when I press the brake pedal??? Replace the driver side bulb. But still no brake lights anywhere! Remove the new bulb and check it out. Nothing wrong with it. So I replace the passenger side bulb and suddenly everything works fine, including the centre brake light! And no ABS/PSM lights! Everything fine!!! Question. Are the circuits really designed so that if one brake bulb fails, none of the others will work? Doesn't make sense to me. Lesson 1. Do the simple things first, eg. replace ALL bad bulbs before testing. Though I still don't understand why one dead bulb suppresses the other two brake lights AND turns on the ABS/PSM warning lights. Or perhaps this was just some random weird chain of events! Lesson 2. Amazing how something that originally takes 30 minutes can be done in 30 seconds with a little practice!
  40. 1 point
    The most likely cause of this particular problem is inside the door lock assembly, inside the door. It's either in the circuit board or in the microswitch in that assembly. There are a number of soldered connections on a small circuit board inside that door lock assembly which can crack and cause the exact problem that you have described. The soldered connections on the circuit board can be reheated and re-soldered for a good repair. The microswitch usually can only be replaced but Porsche does not sell that microswitch bi itself, only the complete assembly. To definitively determine the cause you will have to remove the door panel and peel back the waterproof covering and then remove and test the door lock assembly. Here is a photo of my door lock assembly ('97 Boxster), yours will look very similar. The circuit board in question is inside the large white plastic housing and the soldered connections that usually crack are the ones that are on the edge of the circuit board, where the connector is attached (near the top left corner of the photo). The movement (from its weight) of the connector is probably what causes the cracks. There are a lot of posts on the microswitch issue on this forum. Do a search here and you'll get a better idea of what you are dealing with if it turns out to be the microswitch. BTW, to see the cracks in the solder you will need a large magnifying glass. They are almost microscopic. It won't cost you anything to inspect the circuit board or to fix it if you are good with a soldering iron before considering the expense of a replacement door lock assembly. Regards, Maurice.
  41. 1 point
    P2293 Fuel - high pressure Possible fault causes: - Predelivery quantity or pressure in fuel low pressure circuit too low - Pressure relief valve in high pressure circuit faulty - Fuel high pressure sensor faulty - Quantity control valve faulty (in fuel high pressure pump) - Fuel high pressure pump faulty - High pressure injector(s) (fuel injector(s)) faulty
  42. 1 point
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  43. 1 point
    If you look at the picture on the prior page it was frayed exactly where the red felt pads were placed. That's were a small part was cut out by the dealer. To add to the renewed discussion, i'd been meaning to send in some pics of the fix on what the end result was that rid me of this little niggle. It was as simple as purchasing some felt tape (or equivalent) and working it around the area to reduce the friction. This is how it currently looks: - I just had to be sure that all surfaces that the strap is in contact with were sufficiently covered to prevent any contact with the plastic. Other than that and how always it's the case, a pain to discover but simple to remedy. Regards Pop OMG. This is by FAR the best thread I've read. For 2 years now i've had this very exact cracking noise and nobody (dealers) knew where it came from. It just tried your fix and it took all of 5 minutes and 2 bucks. Sound is now GONE. Pop. i think i love you. LOL
  44. 1 point
    P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit P0174 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit Possible fault causes: - Incorrect signal from MAF sensor - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Fuel injectors fouled - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Looks like you have a leak...
  45. 1 point
    I'm shocked that a Cayenne S would be available without cruise control. I though it was a standard feature.
  46. 1 point
    During my travels, I try, like many of you, to visit with Porsche folks. Met some really nice people willing to take the time to shoot the breeze about their cars over the years I have a fun collection of some of the nicest and most unique shops where these people work on their cars. Some of these "shops" are as nice as the houses they are attached to! So I created a new section on my site for the displaying of these "shops". So if you have some pictures of your shop, send them to me and I'll post them. There is one up there now that has been my favorite so far. The shop is as nice as the guy that owns it. Some of the old timers from the east coast may recognize it. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Then click on the "The Werkstatt" Link ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com :renntech:
  47. 1 point
    New to this forum and seeing if there is something different outside the 356 Registry. I run a small website dedicated to the 356 and thought it might be of some value to the members here. http://www.cyberwerkstatt.com Check it out and let me know if it is helpful. ed www.cyberwerkstatt.com
  48. 1 point
    IMHO it would be really useful if some of you guys could reply with which code Loren suggests actually works. It might help make more accurate predictions. Just my 2 cents worth.
  49. 1 point
    I am in Morgan Hill (a little South of San Jose) and I can turn it on for you. Or... if you are not in a hurry I will be in Roseville June 16. Drop me a PM if you are interested in either.
  50. 1 point
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