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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/04/2010 in all areas

  1. 31 points
    Does anybody has this problem with their horns? Basically, if I go over a bump, or stop on a slope, the horn will turn on. It is very annoying especially people in front of you thought your are hornking at them. Any advise, will be helpful. Thanks, -Nat
  2. 24 points
    First off - thanks to everyone who has been down this road before me for providing tips and suggestions and troubleshooting regarding this common problem. I have been dealing with a key that would stay all the way to the right upon starting meaning that the A/C, heated seats and some other items would not function. My solution had been to simply start the car and then just move the key back one notch to the left and everything worked fine. So if others have that issue, my original solution will work but obviously the problem remains and at some point you may end up stranded if the ignition switch completely fails. I stumbled upon some of the other threads and found that this needed fixing and I opted to replace just the switch as opposed to upgrading to the new complete unit that Porsche has moved to. This procedure is not new to the board, but I thought a step by step with pictures may be useful to those looking for an inexpensive solution. It cost me $12.11 including tax. If your ignition mechanism has been changed to the newer revised unit the ignition switch is a different part number but I assume the steps would be the same. The part for just the switch - no longer available through Porsche since they are only selling the entire $150 unit - is 4A0905849B. The switch alone is available mail order through Pelican for $10, Autohausaz.com was +/- $8.75, Ebay has them all over the map from $15-30. All of these options will work but require shipping charges and delivery time. I was hoping for a local option since I had the time to do it today. Here is what I found in Houston - a local Audi dealer had one in stock for $35, while VW had to order it (for more than $35 believe it or not). Doing a search online at parts stores using my Porsche got me nowhere so I opted to use an older Audi - in my case a 1997 Audi A8 since the part is the same. I found Autozone had one for >$40, OReilly came up blank but I did not call to check, a specialty imports place had one for $27 and then I found it in stock at NAPA for $11.19 + tax. Since NAPA seems to have stores all over the place I suggest looking there first if you don't feel like mail order. The complete part number at NAPA was ATM 4A0905849B using the 1997 Audi A8 as the vehicle. Here is a picture of the NAPA part (left) alongside the original part which I removed from my 996 cab - note the AUDI rings on the old part. Equipment needed: Small flat screwdriver - eyeglass or electronics size Philips screwdriver Torx driver 10mm wrench rubber pry tool Cold beer to celebrate 1) Disconnect the battery - I just undid the negative with a 10mm wrench 2) OPTIONAL but makes the job easier than the shop manual in my opinion. Remove the side air vent by pulling the headlight switch towards you and inserting a small blade screwdriver up from the six o'clock position. You should notice a spring like resistance which will release the knob and allow it to pull towards you. Here is a picture of the back of the knob showing the release mechanism Once the knob is off remove the three torx screws – one in the headlight control recess and two on the side After the screws are out take a rubber pry tool (or be careful with a flat screwdriver) and remove the vent housing - it will pull towards you with a little effort but not much. Once off I pulled it out far enough to gain access but left the headlight control connected because I was lazy and saw no need to unhook it. I forgot to take a picture of this part but it should be self explanatory. You will now see a philips screw directly in the back of the air vent - remove. 3) Crawl under the dash and remove the center piece (A) of the air vent - there is not much room and you will not miss it. The piece can be nudged towards the side to release on one end and then the other. Since you removed the screw from above you should be able to remove the middle and side piece now out the bottom. 4) Unplug switch by pulling directly off the back - do not unhook the purple tabs just pull the entire unit back. Make sure to pull this off BEFORE unscrewing and removing the switch as the screws holding the switch in make this much easier than trying to get a hand in there - believe me I jumped ahead and then resorted to screwing it back in. 5) Unscrew two set screws - one on the bottom on one on the opposite side. The screws are coated with red paint that may need to be chipped through with your screwdriver before you can get the screw to grab. I unscrewed the bottom screw while under the dash and then from the seat I reached under and could view the top screw through the side vent area and unscrewed it. Do not remove the screws just undo them far enough to remove the ignition switch. Bottom screw noted in this picture Top screw as viewed from side vent opening - this can also be done from underneath but the small space and clutch pedal against my head led me to look for easier access 6) Now that the screws are loose you should be able to pull the ignition switch out and replace it with the new one. Screw in the set screws, hook the harness back to it and get ready for a cold beer - not quite but almost 7) Slide out from under the foot well, hook up the battery and see if all is well. You may as well check before reattaching the rest. If the car starts as it should you will notice a nice smooth ignition with the slight spring back to the left just after ignition. Hook up the air vents, screw everything back together and push the headlight knob back in place 8) Crack open a cold beer and smile - you just saved a lot of money. This is one of the simplest "repair" DIY out there - it took me probably less than 20 minutes including removing the side vent and I took my time since I had never done it before. If I need to replace it again - which is likely - it will be even quicker. You can always replace the entire ignition module with the new and improved unit at around $150 I think - and alot more effort - but for $12 and 20 minutes I am hoping I can get some decent life out of this switch and then just replace it again in a few years if I need to. Like I said before - this is not a new DIY but I am hopeful that these pictures will be helpful. Thanks again to all of those who provided the prior posts.
  3. 14 points
    I like pictures when I read a DIY, so I made these up to demonstrate what you are in for when you want to change your plugs. Use these pictures in conjunction with the writeup by ebaker...
  4. 9 points
    The symptoms for this include CEL and Long Cranking times when starting after filling up. Part Required 948 110 202 01 (75 from dealer, 45 from Sunset) Some new Twist locks for the trim panels, since they have a mind of their own. You will need to remove the throttle design cover pull up it comes right off. then you will need to remove the 4 t 30 torx screws on the drivers side coil cover. then that cover will pull up although it is a pain, you can wiggle it out. Use a large flat blade screw driver or a penny to remove the 1/4 twist locks that hold down the drivers side engine compartment cover (the big black one) there should be 4 1/4 ttwists Then remove the rearblack panel, 1 1/4 twist in the center and 2 on the pass side of it. Remove the panel the purge valve is in the front of the engine between the head and the intake on the drivers side. It looks like a black cylinder little bit bigger then a film canister with a hose on one end to the front and the back is a hard black plastic line that runs along the intake and comes up in the back and goes to a rubber hose on the fire wall. Un plug the valve and push it off its bracket, undo the clamp with a pair of plairs and pull the hose off (sometimes you need gently grab the hose with the pliars and twist to loosen it up from the valve, you can damage the valve just not the hose). In the rear you will need to do the same, the rear hose never comes off easy I think they glue it on, use you pliers to crush the plastic line where the hose is over it. once it is crushed enough it will come off with needle nose pliers. Undo the injector electrical connections (wire clip on each) and pull them off, also free the ratcheting clip on the 1 inch flexy pipe crossing over the top. These 2 steps make removing the pipe a lot less violent. I did not and I would do the next time (hope not) I would cut the pipe after you have sprung it out of the gold clips along the intake, it make it easier to remove The pipe has some sleeving which is re-used, see when they are before you remove and put them back the same The hard part is the removal, putting it back is a piece of cake., Dont forget to hook a durametric to clear the code. I filled up for the first time this morning, perfect start afterwards. I need to give credit for this to a certain dealer tech from Miami (Firehawk) without whose help I would not have been brave enough to do this myself.
  5. 8 points
    Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 996 110 131 52 Air Filter or equal (BMC or K&N Filter) Tools you will need: 13 mm socket or wrench Regular screwdriver Phillips screwdriver Remove hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. (13 mm wrench) Loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and remove the connection of the sucking jet pumps (not present on early cars). Pull connecting plug off the mass air flow sensor by squeezing the connector clips. Then unclip the cable on the air cleaner housing. Subsequently unclip the oil filler snorkel. Remove the whole air cleaner housing out of the engine compartment. Unscrew the 7 (phillips) fastening screws on the air cleaner housing and remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Subsequently remove the cleaner element. Clean air cleaner housing. Insert new filter element and replace the upper part of the air cleaner housing (BMC filter shown). Tighten the 7 fastening screws. Place the air cleaner housing in the engine compartment again. Make sure that the rubber mount of the air cleaner housing is still seated in the body. Tighten the air cleaner housing with the fastening screw M6 x 34, the screw is tightened with 7.5 ft-lb. Clip in oil filler neck again.. Reconnect the intake pipes on the throttle body. Retighten the hose clamp. Subsequently insert the connection for the sucking jet pump (again, if present) and mount the spring band clamp. Fit the connecting cable and clip into the holder on the air cleaner. Push the connecting plug on the mass air flow sensor.
  6. 7 points
    This is a short DIY about installing white LED daytime running lights on your 996. But first, thanks to Loren and all the other members who have posted DIY articles. Lately I have used them to do the PSE cutout mod, removed those ugly airbag stickers from my visors and changed the plugs at 30K. Got those lousy Bosch plugs out, installed NGKs and it runs like a different car. Smoother and more power. I found some white LED bars on Ebay that looked like they would fit just right in the air intakes. Search for item 390103978391 on Ebay, they go for about $50. In order to install the wiring you will have to remove the front bumper cover. I followed Loren's DIY on installing the third radiator. Also, you will have to remove the liner in the trunk area to get the wires through the bulkhead in back of the bumper. Here is a picture of the lights installed. I used double sided tape to mount them to the separator bar. Here the bumper cover is removed and I am running the wires up to the bulkhead. There is a round rubber plug just below and to the side of the latch that you can feed the wires through to the inside of the trunk compartment. Testing the lights before buttoning everything up. Everything back together. The only thing I have not completed is to find a source of switched 12 volts in the trunk area. If anyone out there knows of an easy way to pick it up I would appreciate hearing from you. Otherwise I will run the wire under the dash and pick up switched 12 there.
  7. 5 points
    These rubber "accordians" can crack over time. Fortunately the rubber piece is only around $60, and can be replaced easily. You'll need to set aside about an hour and a half if you haven't done this before. Tools needed: Flat-bladed screwdriver 4mm allen wrench Ratchet with short extension and 10mm socket Parts needed: The bellows Two plastic expanding fasteners (might come with the bellows) First, deploy your spoiler manually, and shut off the ingnition. No need to disconnect the battery. You will see, along the rear edge, four caps, as seen below. These pry out easily with your fingers or with a flat bladed screwdriver. No paint to worry about, just try not to mar the plastic. With the caps off you can access the 4mm allen head bolts: I found these to be a bit tight due to exposure to the elements, but I was able to get them off with an allen key. A long allen socket would work better. Once the bolts are out, the top tray (painted part) of the spoiler can be slid toward the rear and off. Put it somewhere where it won't be scratched. Now you can see the fasteners holding the top of the bellows to the spoiler. There are two explanding plastic fasteners, one on each corner, and several sliding hooks. I destroyed my plastic fasteners since my new bellows came with new ones. Just nipped them off with wire cutters. With the two plastic fasteners off you can disengage the hooks and detach the top of the bellows by sliding it to the right, and down. The top edge of the bellows is actually sandwiched between a long metal strip and the spoiler. The metal strip has the hooks that go through pre-cut holes in the bellows. View from below: With top of bellows detached: With the top of the bellows detached, open the engine lid. You will see several circular clips holding the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid: There is one under the fan, so you will have to detach the fan. Just three 10mm bolts. Just let it hang by the cable, out of your way. Be careful not to scratch your paint while removing the clips. In my case, the clips themselves had scratched the paint a bit. Fortunately this is one of the body areas that receives only a "rough" paint job from the factory anyway. Save those clips. It is not necessary to replace them. With the clips removed, you can pull the bellows out. As with the top, there is another frame piece running the length of the bottom of the bellows. This sandwiches the bottom of the bellows to the engine lid. The bellows has pre-cut holes for the nubs on the metal strip: Lay your old bellows alongside you new one, so that you can see how the top and bottom frame strips fit. Reassembly: Transfer your frame pieces to your new bellows. Then attach bottom of bellows to engine lid with the circular clips. Push those numbs through and get those clips up as tight as possible. The idea is to clamp onto the lower bellows edge. Re-attach the fan. Close engine lid Make sure the top frame piece hooks are threaded through the top of the bellows, push up through the corresponding holes in the spoiler, and slide to the left to secure. Make sure all of the hooks are engaged and snug. Then insert and secure the two plastic expanding fasteners in the corners. This step will confirm that you have the bellows and the spoiler snug and aligned properly. Now grab your painted spoiler top, and look under it to make sure the locking tabs are lined up. Push down, and slide toward the front of the car to lock the tabs. The top and bottom of the spoiler should mate very well. If you feel gaps around any edges, check and adjust. Finally, secure the top of the spoiler with the four allen screws. Put the plastic caps on, and manually raise and lower the spoiler to make sure you haven't left any tools in there...
  8. 4 points
    Thanks again to all of those contributors that helped me while I went through this upgrade. This topic appears to be a common one and one that doesn't appear to have a complete solution for contending with the MOST bus. Hopefully my DIY will help owners with the MOST bus successfully upgrade their factory stereo system as I have with mine. Also note that the wiring and process described should work with any system (Kenwood, Alpine, etc.), not just the AVIC D3 as the signal requirements and factory harness wiring is detailed here. Also note that this upgrade also covers the iPod interface, Sirius satellite radio and Bluetooth module install. Good luck! 03_04_Boxster_AVIC_D3_Radio_Upgrade.pdf
  9. 3 points
    I decided to remove the rear seats out of my 2003 C4S and eventually build a shelf with doors, i.e. the RS kit (?) that was sold at one time. I would sure like to get my hands on the doors shown in this pix. Anyway, the purpose of this "mod" is to utilize the tear drop opening where the shoulder strap of the seat belt was anchored. My first thought was to just install a piece of painted sheet metal behind the opening, then I came up with the idea to make the opening an interior light. A friend of mine gave me a 12" square of 1/8" white plexi. It turns out that the backside of the opening isn't flat so I had to first cut out the shape on the band saw with about 3/8" over lap on the bottom of the opening and a fitted edge to the top of the opening. Then I heated the plastic so I could warp the plexi piece for fitment to the backside of the opening. Not slam dunk, it's trial and error to get the shape to lay down on the back side of the plastic piece. Naturally if you had a mirrored shaped block of wood you could just heat the plexi and drape it over your fixture. Also remember there's a left and right so it would take two fixtures. So I just heated and bent the plastic to make a pretty good fit. Note you have to be careful not to dent the plastic when it's hot with pliers or a Crescent wrench. I used a ViseGrip with wide jaws that are covered in leather. I think if you had 1/16" plexi it would work better than my 1/8", I might add that I used a red Magic Marker to fine tune the fit. It seems to me that the black Magic Marker really gets into the material and it's hard to remove even with lacquer thinner. Once I had the fit, I sanded the shiny plexi with 1200 wet or dry sand paper to remove the gloss. Then used black RTV silicone and glued the lens to the back of the Porsche upholstery. I bought a strip of white LED's that has a self adhesive back. I just stuck the strips directly to the car body. I haven't wired the lights up yet, however I did light them up, I'm very pleased with the look and the light. I'm thinking I might wire the LED's into theinterior door lights so I don't have to worry about a separate switch and leaving the lights on. If you wanted to get weird you can buy LED's that can change colors. Remotes are available to rotate the color of preference if that's your thing. FYI: You can get these LED strips on-line from superbrightled.com - P/N NFLS-NW30X3-WHT - Natural White. These LED's run on 12 volts so you don't need power pack, just 12 Volts to the strips. The strips come 19" long with 2 leads, I cut the strips down to 6 LED's per side,then soldered + and - leads to the other strip. The strips are polarity sensitive, but they're well marked.
  10. 3 points
    996 owners don't hate their cars either! I love my C4S! That being said, I'm pretty excited to test drive a 991. I think my next 911 purchase will be a 991.
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Removing: Lever the locking button A off with a suitable tool or finger. The locking button must be pressed so that the tool can be inserted between the selector lever B and locking button. (The ignition key must be in position 1 before the locking button can be pressed.) 2. Remove compression spring A and pull spring clip B off toward the rear. 3. Pull selector lever up and off. Installing: 1. Assemble the selector knob with spring clip, compression spring and locking button. Fit conical compression spring with the small diameter facing the guide peg.) 2. Press the complete selector knob onto the shift lever until it bottoms. The spring clip must fully engage in the slot on the selector lever. 3. Check function of locking button.
  13. 2 points
    Personally, if the body shop damaged it, I would insist they replace it. It's there fault. That being said, you'll have to remove the door panel to replace the upper window weather seal. Check out this video...
  14. 2 points
    I hope that others find this information helpful. Upgrading Two-Way Power Seats.pdf
  15. 2 points
    Getting into a 996 when the Battery is Flat. The conventional route seems to be opening the front trunk lid with the emergency wire and then applying jump start leads to the battery. This certainly works, but sometimes the wire is hard to find and with the wheel in place it is difficult to get behind the front wheel arch liner. In my view, it is a great deal easier to get in from the back, with the emergency release wire, and then to apply power to the jump start points in the engine compartment. Proceed as follows:- Tools: A short length of coat hanger wire with a small hook at one end and a narrow timber or plastic wedge. Method: There is an emergency engine cover release wire under the left back light cluster. You need to fish this wire out and when it is pulled the engine cover will be released. Insert the wedge between the underside of the light cluster and the top of the rear fender. Make the gap wide enough to insert the wire hook. Push the hook in about 4 to 6 inches. Turn the wire slightly and withdraw it pulling the caught emergency wire out. Pull the wire to release the engine cover lid. At this point the alarm will go off if there is sufficient current in the system. Locate the jump start points. The earth -ve (black jump wire) is near the engine cover catch and doubles as an air box fixing. The +ve (red jump wire) is just above the power steering pump within a plastic box. Attach both the jump wires, placing the red +ve wire first. The system is now energised and the central locking can be used and the alarm switched off. If you have never seen this wire, it is a good idea to locate it so you know where it is. It's easy to remove the rear light cluster. There is a single set screw with a 10mm hex head visible when the engine cover is raised. Options for the front emergency wire: Although the front trunk wire is more difficult to find it's worth looking for it before you need to do so in a hurry. I have extended my front release wire with a short length of nylon cord, bringing it out to a more accessible location. There are a number of options available for this, including running it to the side flasher unit.
  16. 2 points
    when I did my front discs and pads I found the pins somewhat redundant if you have another pair of hands to help. Although the front calipers are big suckers, it was easy to hold the caliper clear of the disc for the few minutes its takes un screw and replace rotor. I also found that it was unnecessary to replace the clips holding the pads, if you just 'unclip and replace' one pad at a time, the clip just stays in place. that bit also can be done in a couple minutes.
  17. 2 points
    An 04 Cayenne should have PCM2.0, so it might be something else in the system preventing it from changing the VIN in the PCM. I guess the 2.1 must have been retrofitted.
  18. 2 points
    A quick addition to this thread. I noticed today that the 997.2 has two drains (per side) for the cabriolet roof. One dumps out at the front of the rear wheel, but the 2nd dumps out at the rear of the rear wheel. It exits at the point where the rear part of the rear wheel well cover finishes at the top. Make sure you give that one a clear too. I found I could reach it in the gap at the end of the wheel well cover. Pouring in some water around the top and then squeezing the outlet cleaned it out nicely.
  19. 2 points
    Well I did it! I successfully modified a Blaupunkt iPod connector cable to work with my Becker CDR-220 stereo. I also installed a factory rear speaker kit at the same time. Suddenly I find myself in audio bliss! Time for another long road trip! ***Important Note: This cable plugs into the same port as the factory CD-changer (C3). Both cannot be attached at the same time without additional modifications not described here.*** At first glance it looks like the Blaupunkt and Becker auxiliary input connectors are identical, but don’t let this same plug shape and location fool you. These two manufacturers have different pin assignments. Bus In is still Bus In and Bus Out is still Bus Out, but the 12 volt and ground leads are switched up. Here is a short comparison of the pinouts for the C3 (auxiliary) port on the rear of either brand’s stereo unit: Pin # Blaupunkt Becker 13 Bus - In Bus - In 14 Bus - Out Bus - Out 15 Steady +12V (Unknown) 16 Switched +12V (Unknown) 17 Bus - Ground Steady +12V 18 AF - Ground Bus - Ground 19 Line In - Left Aux Left 20 Line In - Right Aux Right The C3 port is designed to allow attachment of 6-disc CD changers, Mini-Disc players, and cellular phones. It also happens to work for iPods. For iPod use soe of these pins like 15, 16, 19 & 20 simply aren’t needed. The *KEY* difference between the Blaupunkt and Becker pinouts is #17. If one where to take the cable as it is sold and attach it to a Becker CDR-220 and an iPod, you would have one fried iPod battery! Here is what I did to change the cabling around so that this cable would allow both playback as well as charging support for an iPod: Tools Needed: Insulating Electrical Tape, Wire Strippers, & a Knife. Figure #1: View of the unmodified cable. 1.) Trim back the shrink tubing used to protect the wires near the 8-pin mini ISO plug (the blue plug) end. 2.) Snip the wires to pins #15 (blue wire) and 16 (red wire) near to the plug. Snip the black wire leading to pin #17 as well but closer to where the shrink tubing was. Figure #2: Cut cables 3.) Strip the ends of the blue and black wires and splice them together. This will result in the blue wire now corresponding to pin #17 instead of 15. Figure #3: Spliced black and blue wires 4.) Trim down an inch or so of the black outer tubing to expose more of the multicolored wiring. Now strip the black wire that is no longer attached to a pin and splice it with the zinc wiring wrapped around the exterior of the six small wires. This should route the second ground line present in the Blaupunkt setup through the single ground wire used by Becker. Figure #4: Spliced ground wires 5.) Wrap all of the exposed wiring with black insulating electrical tape making sure to keep the spliced wires connected. Do not skimp on the tape here because these wires will be bent and pulled on each time you remove your stereo from the console. Figure #5: All taped up 6.) (OPTIONAL) Take a black sharpy to that ugly white iPod dock connector and black it out. My boxster doesn’t have any white in its interior so I felt this was a must. Also cut off the yellow video cable. Unless you have some sort of LCD display installed this cable is useless. Tape off the end to make it neat. Figure #6: Video cable removed and taped up 7.) Remove the head unit from the dash using the factory stereo removal keys. (Not included with your car, but easy and cheap to get through a dealer. Mine came with my rear speaker kit.) 8.) Remove the leather and carpeting pieces to the right of the upper console. Grabbing the far edge and giving a swift tug to remove either of these pieces. 9.) Snake the blue plug end of the cable up through the exposed side of the console to where the rest of the stereo cables are. 10.) Attach this cable to the rest of the stereo cables either by more electrical tape or zip-ties to reduce the risk of them getting pinched. 11.) Plug in the cable to the C3 port on the top right of the stereo facing the rear. 12.) Reinstall the head unit and trim pieces being careful not to pinch the wiring in the process. 13.) Enable auxiliary input on the stereo if it isn’t already. Turn the radio on, hold down the TP button until “Becker 1” is displayed. Turn tuning knob until “AUX OFF” is displayed. Then arrow down and change it to “AUX ON” and turn the radio off. 14.) Plug in your iPod and enjoy. Figure #7: All done! ***NOTE this cable does not work with the latest iPhone 3G and iPod Touch 2nd generation. My iPod Video 60GB and early iTouch work just fine. With the Scosche passPORT charging adapter this cable will charge an iPhone 3G, but it will not send audio to the stereo. iPod Nano 4th Generation will play audio through this cable, but the Scosche adapter is required for charging.*** One more word of caution, this cable uses a 12 volt charging circuit that is always on. It is conceivable that leaving the iPod attached with the car shut off could drain your battery. The iPod will interrupt the circuit when it no longer needs to charge eliminating the issue more or less. This modification of the cable is really quite simple, but if you don’t think you can do it contact me. I have perfected the modifying of these cables so that no splicing and soldering is needed. An already modified cable from me with detailed installation instructions costs $50 including domestic shipping. Payments can be arranged by PayPal, but please contact me via e-mail first at j w a e n {at} l m i (dot) net Enjoy! -Jeremy :renntech:
  20. 2 points
    It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
  21. 2 points
    M96/24 = Boxster 3.2S engine used in MY2003 & 2004 6 = 6 Cylinder 7 = Engine Version 3 = MY2003 06115 = Engine Serial Number
  22. 2 points
    Yes, the Tip controller can not switch the valve if it is off (fuse removed) - nor can the vacuum valve switch with the engine off.
  23. 2 points
    I am posting some notes as to my process in removing the rear half axles from my 2000 Boxster S, and replacing the CV Joint “Boots”, both inner and outer. I hope this will be of use to folks: Note: For tools, you will need a large torque wrench. I bought mine from Harbor Freight for $79.00. I’d highly recommend not only that wrench, but a good set of metric wrenches and sockets, a NAPA CV Boot clamp tool, and a good set of snap ring or “circlip” pliers. I'd also suggest a ball joint separator tool. I’ll leave it to you, but when you order your new boots and clamps, you might want to order new CV Joint end caps, new snap rings/circlips, new hex head bolts for the CV Joints, and definitely new axle nuts, and perhaps a few extra nyloc nuts for the ball joints discussed below. Here is the process I followed: 1. Remove Porsche emblem hub center pieces using a 90 degree bent awl, or similar tool, and loosen, but don’t remove, the 32mm axle nut on each rear wheel axle. 2. Block the front wheels and raise the rear of the car from the middle rear jacking point approved by PCA and Bentleys, just rear of the engine oil sump, where the two bolt heads fastening the under-pan to the frame support appear. 3. Place a sturdy jack stand under each rear jacking point, using a rubber pad or jack stand pad (from Harbor Freight or elsewhere) to protect the car, leaving room to access the forward bolt from the diagonal cross arms on the underside, and gently lower the car onto the stands. 4. Remove each rear wheel and remove each 32mm axle nut, and slide wheels under each side of car as an added “catastrophic” precaution in case the car should somehow fall from the jack stands or should a jack stand collapse. 5. Remove diagonal underside cross arms and under-pan. 6. Remove bolts from each side of sway bar and swing out of way. 7. Remove six hex-head bolts from each inner CV Joint half-axle, and let each axle rest down on the exhaust pipes. Note: Use a nine inch ratchet extension and a good 8mm hex head socket fitting, loosening one bolt at a time, and using the parking brake for each bolt to keep the wheel hub from rotating. The 9 inch extension will help to achieve access to each bolt with the CV Joint Boot kept out of the way. Release the brake to rotate to the next bolt, then reset the brake. 8. Remove each nut from toe-in/track arm at the side of each wheel carrier, then separate ball joint with a ball joint separator tool (Harbor Freight) and, using hand pressure only on the track arm, push the ball joint pin out of the wheel carrier. 9. Remove nut and bolt from the trailing arm to the middle of the control arm, and slide the forked end up the control arm to allow movement 10. Remove nut from control arm ball joint and separate ball joint from control arm. You may have to hold the ball joint pin firmly in place with a torx/star or similar fitting into the top of the pin. 11. Mark the position of the control arm eccentric bolt on the inner mounting point on suspension frame, then loosen, but do not remove the eccentric bolt or the nut on the opposite side. 12. The control arm should now fall freely out of the wheel carrier 13. Pull each wheel carrier out a few inches and place a brace of wood (I used a 1.5 inch square piece, about 13 to 16 inches long) behind the heavy structure of the wheel carrier, squeezed between that carrier and the frame bracket of the control arm. Do this one wheel at a time, not together. The purpose is to hold the wheel carrier outward and firmly in place while you remove the axle from the wheel carrier hub as explained below. 14. Now that you have enough clearance with the wood braces, pound the axle out of the wheel carrier by using a good heavy hammer, perhaps 5 pound one, and buffering the blow to the axle with a small block of wood, perhaps 1.5 inches square and a few inches long. The axle will pop right out. 15. Now remove the wood brace spacer (the 13 to 16 inch one), but realize you must now grab each wheel carrier, pull the carrier out, even farther than the wood spacer accomplished, and remove the axle from the car. A good firm pull is required, and remain confident that neither the brake lines nor the strut will be harmed by the process. 16. Place each axle being worked on in a good vice or on a bench where it can be confined. Tap off the inner end cap, remove the steel snap ring (actually called a “circlip”) with special needle pliers, tap off the CV Joint, in all cases using a piece of wood as a buffer, and then remove the boot clamps and both the inner and outer boots, and clean out all old grease and ascertain that no contamination exists. Then in proper sequence slide the boot clamps and new boots back onto the axle, and repack with CV Boot grease. Be careful not to force grease into the bolt holes of the six hex-head bolts; otherwise, the grease may contaminate any loctite or similar product used when you “re-torque” the bolts at the transmission flange. Also, if you disassemble the inner CV Joint, remember that the ball hub has a camfered inner end that must face toward the axle after you re-grease it and install it into the ball cage, then into the CV Joint. 17. Reassemble in reverse. Torque all fittings. Use loctite where appropriate. You may need to use a jack under the control arm when re-fastening the control arm ball joint nut. When re-tightening the eccentric bolts at the control arm, be sure the markings remain lined up. 18. Only torque the axle nut to 100 foot pounds while on the jack, and even then only carefully. After replacing the wheels and lowering the car, bring the torque to 340 foot pounds, drive the car a few miles and recheck the torque again. Then replace the emblem caps. I hope this helps someone. I’m posting it only because I had some difficulty in my own process, and felt some of the detail here, though perhaps different than offered in other posts, might be useful. For pictures and drawings, I’d refer to Pedro at: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Repla...lf%20Axles.html. Follow all factory torque specs and other mandatory procedures. You may want to check rear wheel alignment when done as well. Good luck all. And use care to be safe.
  24. 2 points
    Wind Deflector Install Just purchased a wind deflector and the mounting kit. Anyone have instructions on how to install it? Thanks. Edit -- please view the support topic here for details Author jambajuice Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 06/21/2005 11:19 AM Updated 06/19/2011 08:19 AM  
  25. 2 points
    P1126 is most likely intake air leak as you said. Have you checked the oil filler tube for cracks? Is it very (too) easy to remove the oil filler cap? You can monitor the MAF voltage using Durametric. Going by memory here...key ON engine OFF should be about 1.0v and idling warmed up engine should be about 1.3v. Your Bosch MAF p/n looks correct per http://www.boschautoparts.com/
  26. 2 points
    So I've bought a new amp and it was the issue. The subwoofer is working just fine again. However I found it difficult to get hold of an amp from a Porsche Caynne, so after some research I found out, that the Audi A8 models with Bose, use the same amp for the subwoofer. So I ended up buying a whole subwoofer unit for an Audi, to only use the amp from it. SO much cheaper though! And exactly the same amp. Win! Once again, thanks for the troubleshoot! Jeppe.
  27. 2 points
    Reminder, when the car is lifted with the wheels off the ground, ignition on and in horizontal position, the air suspension, if present, must be switched off.
  28. 2 points
    :welcome: Sounds like an after market add of an AUX switch. This would allow switching from an MP3 device and the CD Player.
  29. 2 points
    This is not a Porsche code label, from 987/997 there is no longer a separate code label, all codes are on a i-pass availlable from any OPC. upon presentation of residence and vehicle registration.
  30. 2 points
    View this tutorial 3.4 liter Engine Parts Locations Cylinder Order (engine is turned 180 degrees for Boxster/Cayman) Cylinders 1,2,3 = bank 1 Cylinders 4,5,6 = bank 2 DME Sensors 1 - Mass air flow sensor 2 - Engine temperature sensor 3 - VarioCam valve 4 - Ignition coil 5 - Tank venting valve 6 - Secondary air pump 7 - Throttle potentiometer 8 - Idle speed air control valve 9 - Injection valve 10 - Knock sensors 11 - Hall-effect sensors 12 - Engine compartment temperature sensor 13 - Oil temperature sensor 14 - Resonance flap Author Loren Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 03/17/2010 04:06 PM Updated 03/13/2017 05:24 AM  
  31. 2 points
    I've finally sorted this out. It ended up being the Terminal 15 relay under the drivers seat next to the battery. It turns out this relay is responsible for powering the CAN bus and had an intermittent fault. Total cost $18. And 15 hours of my life searching for it. Thanks for all the suggestions along the way.
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    It's been a month long journey into the depths of my 1999 996 C2 M96-01, but I am finally there and the car is on the road again! If you want to skip all of the boring commentary and head straight for the annotated pictures, then here is the link: https://picasaweb.go...6pcarnut/Engine (the email address associated with this account is not monitored, PM me or post here if you would like to send me a message) Some commentary about the process for the readers. PROBLEMS 1.) In the past 5,000 miles, oil consumption had gone from about 1 quart per 1500-2000 miles to 1 quart per 1000 miles. Still within Porsche spec, but such a rapid increase was worrying. I also knew that there were a ton of leaks that needed to be addressed, such as the spark tubes, camshaft covers, cam solenoid cover, AOS tubes, oil filler neck, and on and on and on. However leaks aside, the big indicator here that something was afoot was that bank 1's tailpipe was accumulating soot and producing purplish smoke on startup and high RPMs much more so than bank 2's pipe which was not exhibiting these issues. 2.) The oil pressure was fine at start-up, 5 bars. However when the car was warm it would fluctuate very slightly a few points in either direction of 1 bar at idle. Sometimes .8 bars. Cleaning the sender terminals did not help. I did not drive the car very long with this condition. In fact, barely at all before I decided to do this work. You don't want to mess with low oil pressure. This problem and the next one were what really got the ball rolling on this endeavor. 3.) There was an increasingly worsening knocking from bank 1 (1-3). The knocking would "seem" to stop after about 30 seconds on cold start, and I thought that this could be lifters or tensioners taking their sweet time to fill up with oil. One time the ticking lasted for 5 minutes. That really put the icing on the cake for the decision. After much Internet research, I determined that it could be stuck or collapsed lifter noise, because I couldn't tell whether it was coming from the top or bottom and that it would seem to go away after the car had oil filling the parts (but it was actually still there). In the back of my mind I also had thought that it could be oil pressure, blockage, valve guide, still could be worn rings, or perhaps issue with a chain tensioner or variocam unit as well. (after researching more and using the screwdriver stethoscope trick, I discovered that the knocking was present in cylinder #2, in the bottom end, but it was also present in #1). The exhaust valves in cylinder #2 were most heavily coated in carbon as well. Eventually, this realization and discovery later that the lifters were OK from my non-professional mechanical knowledge prompted me to pull the heads and have a valve job performed by professionals. ACTION Each problem individually above one might address on the surface by changing or swapping spark plugs, coil packs, and oil viscosity (which I had all done), however when those didn't have a noticeable affect on the issues, I decided to do something about the nervousness and drop the engine. A bevvy of parts were ordered. Because a lot of the parts on this car is relatively inexpensive, I decided to R&R many of the components which I had isolated before removing the engine. For example the 4th and 5th chains cost only half that of the bicycle chains I go through several times a year on my road bike. Each of the three chain tensioners were less than $100. Some people might question why I replaced both oil scavenge pumps after only 75,000 miles and 12 years of life, however in the overall cost of the project the investment was minor. I'm glad I did too, because one was not rotating as freely as the other, and no where near as freely as a new unit. An LN engineering billet hex oil pump driver and genuine oil pump spring and piston were also sourced. Waiting for the parts was actually the most discouraging part of the entire process for me. A few times I had to wait for parts from Germany which meant 7+ days. I replaced nearly every gasket, o-ring, and washer I could which was external to the engine, including some which are internal such as the valve seals (done by the machine shop) and head gaskets (can't avoid doing that or the bolts if you remove the heads). In hindsight I should have ordered the ARP studs for just a few hundred dollars more than the stock single use head bolts. I ordered 24 new "BMW" INA lifters, in case they were some of the source of the problem. Also in hindsight, instead of ordering individual gaskets and orings I could have ordered the complete gasket set, which probably had more in it than I was going to use but would have been easier (although somewhat more expensive) than ordering ala carte. WORK Here are the major highlights on what I replaced or work performed. Complete valve job was performed by Riebes machine shop including: Cleaning, gentle bead blast, and light resurfacing, vaccum and pressure test. Three way valve cut, 5 new valve guides (2 were horrifically worn - the source of the knock), new valve seals, and overall inspection for valve train components (springs, etc.). The machine shop also resurfaced my fabspeed stainless bank 1 exhaust header, it was badly bowed out in the center which plagued me with constant re-torquing, stripped threads, damaged bolts, and a lot of helicoils later. GOOD BYE exhaust leaks!!!! Head gaskets Head bolts Variocam ramps (two were heavily pitted and scored) 4th and 5th timing chains 24 new (old style) lifters LN engineering billet oil pump hex driver OEM oil pump pressure spring & piston Both oil scavenge pumps Oil pressure sender (cleaning the terminals did not help) All three external chain tensioners (all were scored) Replaced many coolant and AOS hoses New air oil separator Countless gaskets, o-rings, & washers Micro encapsulated rear case bolts Replaced water pump (oem, peace of mind) Replaced thermostat (oem, old one was lazy) Resealed and inspected oil pan 4 new lambda sensors (3 were very "slow") - killer deal from Amazon 6 new spark plugs (packs have about 20k on them) Fuel injectors sent out for test, cleaning, orings, and new filters Oil filler tube and cap New "04" coolant cap 10 quarts Castrol 5w40 Oil filter Cleaned IACV Thorough cleaning of engine exterior Cleaning of any interior or exterior part I reinstalled Thorough Intake plenum cleaning Inspected DMF and clutch Replaced about 1 quart of CHF P/S fluid Inspected polyrib belt New SAI check valve, hoses, tubing and elbows, and cleaning Repainted coolant tubes Flushed 12 year old Porsche coolant out and replaced all coolant with Peak Global using Uview Airlift 550000000000 Cam caps Ordered new RMS but didn't install because old was bone dry !!!!!!RESULTS!!!!! The results of all of the above are restored confidence in driving the car. The oil leaks appear to have vanished, since the engine is so clean it is easy to spot fresh oil. Low end torque seems to have dramatically improved on the few drives I've taken. Although I've taken it there a couple times, I haven't yet "fully tested" the high end RPM range because I'm going to give it a bit of a break in and "get comfortable with the rebuild" period first. Oil pressure now stays dead straight on at 1.2 bars hot idle and 5 bars cold idle. Last and certainly not least, NO MORE smoke at startup or high RPMs (thank you valve job). Time will tell if the soot or oil consumption returns. NO MORE ticking or knocking (outside of normal lifter and valve train noise I hear on any car). Thanks to the new thermostat the car gets to temperature much more punctually than it used to. The engine idles much more smoothly than before, it stays pretty dead level on 680 rpm - whereas before I'm sure there were some leaks in the system it would fluctuate some, the plugs were fouled too so not surprised. Warm idle numbers are pretty much dead on with the factory DME set points. Load signal 1.6 ms Air mass 20 kg/h Mat film MAF 1.35 Ignition timing 4.5 to 7.5 Spec air mass 17 gh/hr Spec air adapt 1 kg/hr Injection time 3 ms Oil temperature 207.5F (stage 1 is on, idling on a hot day in my garage) Oxygen sensing 1-3 1.04 avg Oxygen sensing 4-6 1.03 avg Range2 Cyl 1-3 FRA .98 Range2 Cyl 4-6 FRA2 .98 Range1 Cyl 1-3 TRA -0.14 Range1 Cyl 4-6 TRA2 -0.14 02 ahead cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 ahead cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .77 02 behind cat bank 1 fluctuating .09 to .71 02 behind cat bank 2 fluctuating .09 to .71 Cam 1 deviation 3 degrees Cam 2 deviation 3 degrees (was 0 before I did the work) Rough Running Thresh 10.5 to 10.1 Rough running occasional spikes to 1.5 Segment A 1 Segment B 1 Sense wheel adapt .0007 Misfire detection 0 ISSUES Not to say that my work was perfect, because I had one weeping perimeter head bolt that wasn't torqued properly, I damaged one of the coolant hoses upon reinstall (new one ordered), broke the stupid plastic AOS coolant coupler near the oil fill tube, and the oil filter housing was not torqued to spec (next time I have some spare cash I'll probably do the spin on adapter, I'm so sick of that stupid plastic housing). Bank 1 was ticking badly upon first start, I thought for the worst that I had to drop it again, but thankfully it was just a loose/bad spark connection. I also improperly routed the throttle cable and as a result the DME was confused about the throttle plate angle at first startup, and the idle was stuck at 1200 RPM. Both variocam actuators actuated properly when activated with the PST2, and power through the range is consistent and smooth. The only nagging things I am left with which I am somewhat kicking myself is noticing after the fact that the crank pulley appears to have more run out than I would like to see. I will be measuring this run out soon and investigating the possibility of a flat 6 harmonic under-drive pulley or perhaps a new engine. That and I don't think I have the timing 100% spot on, but it is close. Bank 1 @ TDC Bank 2 @ TDC I am also nervous about a potentially poor decision to abstain from loctite usage on the variocam actuator, lifter carrier, and bearing saddles. When I removed those bolts they appeared to be "factory fresh" oily and brand new for lack of a better term. So I decided to just re-torque them to the specific tightening sequence and value. It wouldn't be the end of the world if someone told me I did that wrong and should really consider removing the cam covers again. At least this time I would be able to do the work faster and with much more confidence. DISCLAIMERS I AM NOT A MECHANIC. I am a computer professional, and have done most of the work on the cars or boats I've owned or used for the past 20 years. Some of the things I comment on in the photo gallery might be done "incorrectly" or be appalling to some who are in this trade. But, I have to say it got the job done and I'm not afraid to drive my car anymore. THANKS First and foremost rennlist and renntech are perhaps the best sources of useful information you can find, since there is not a ton of info about these engines elsewhere, unless you have the money to pay for one of Jake's seminars (which would be totally awesome) or are a Porsche employee. There are several great "DIY" engine drop websites as well, http://www.nutrod.com, http://986fix.com, http://www.oz951.com.../enginedrop.htm, http://101projects.com and Wayne's Boxster book is great as well for M96-01 info, especially for summarizing the cam removal DIY - however it is somewhat "incomplete" as it leaves a few very critical things out such as ensuring proper timing procedure and torque settings are carried out. In the end, nothing can replace the authentic work shop manual. I wouldn't even try to attempt any of this without access to that and a Durametric and/or PST2. Thanks to all the suppliers, Bob @ http://www.sunsetimports.com, Henry @ http://www.porscheoemparts.com, http://www.pelicanparts.com, http://www.rmeuropean.com, http://www.4wheelsautoparts.com, and http://autoatlanta.com And certainly THANK YOU PhillipJ, Dharn55, Loren, Don and crew at Riebes machine shop, Dr. Injector, and anyone else who provided any help including those that helped fund this project through the sale of some of my parts! Now it's time to take a drive!
  34. 2 points
    Hi all, I am almost thru the replacement of a CDR23 / BOSE amplifier (2003 MOST bus) , and wanted to share some of my install notes. I have gained a lot of insight by reviewing previous posts, and hopefully, can add some more to the collective wisdom on this topic! Briefly, I was able to successfully interface a Nakamichi CD400 HU and ARC Audio Mini 4-ch amplifier to the factory wiring harness using an Autoleads PC2-95-4 connector. NO CUTTING/SPLICING of factory wiring was needed, which was a key consideration for me. Result - It works, and sounds noticeably better than stock (w/ the factory spkrs). However, the factory spkrs' deficiencies have now been highlighted, so me-thinks a decent set of Focals, Morels, Dynaudio or the like is the next order of business! Anyway, if anyone is interested in details, please see attached PDF. Note, this is NOT a full DIY tutorial - if you are not familiar w/car stereo installations, I would recommend letting a shop handle this. I purchased this amp from Rod Birch (Car Audio Innovations) and his advise and help was indispensible for me to get thru this project. Thanks, - Sanjeev Amp-HU-install.pdf PS: I would highly recommend Rod Birch - he is extremely knowledgeable about these cars and their ins/outs relative to stereo installs.
  35. 2 points
    1. thanks to loren and the wonderful diy section! 2. i changed my plugs and ignition coils (@ 80K) without removing wheels or bumpers or using a jack/lift. felt my way through it. took me about 3 hours. 3. wanted to share some photos of the condition of my ignition coils and plugs. please note every single ignition coil was damaged. especially the ones facing the rear (003 driver.jpg and 006 pass.jpg). thanks again!
  36. 2 points
    seems odd the cam timing would be off after 200 miles - it was a rather sudden event - one minute, it was fine - the next, rough idle. Had the IMS been done incorrectly, wouldn't have the engine thrown a code and started rough idling immediately? one other question - if this were a faulty sensor, which sensor would I be looking for? Thanks Normally, I would agree that it is a bit odd, however the 1340 code is pretty specific to the issue. What has me intrigued is that all the codes are to one bank, which means the relationship between the intake and exhaust cams on that bank is outside the limits. On a five chain motor, that is pretty much impossible as there is a short chain connecting the two cams on each head that should have never had tension relaxed during the IMS install, which is why the IMS upgrade is less problem prone on 2003 and earlier cars. I think it would be useful to have the car run on a PIWIS or Durametric system to see where the cams actually are; could be that the one bank has a dying VarioCam actuator, or a position sensor that is causing the problem. Hopefully, that is the problem, but if it is, you are not out of the woods just yet because the actuator can be fun to replace with the engine in the car…..
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    Open a couple of tray and carefully pull on each side - the tray assembly will pop out.
  39. 2 points
    We have added in a Reputation system here on RennTech.org. The idea behind a reputation system is the when someone is particularly helpful - you give them a vote. This vote increase their "reputation" for providing good solutions. You do this on a post by post basis. These votes get tallied and can be viewed in the members profile or mini profile. When a thread get enough positive votes it get denoted with a star. This can be a very useful tool to reward those folks that are very helpful here and to also know answers you can trust. As with any system like this - there can be abuse. If there is none - great we leave it 'on'. If there is abuse - then we will simply turn it 'off'. I hope this is a useful tool to thank and reward those valuable members that give quality and accurate help here. Enjoy...
  40. 2 points
    Got it! A gentleman on another forum was kind enough to post pictures and procedure. I kind of guessed that was it but did not want to tear something up out of stupidity.
  41. 2 points
    Here is how I replaced the micro-switch. Here is a picture of the switch. Here is the door. Use a torx socket to remove the handle. Remove the clip near the speaker. You can grab it and pull it out. This picture shows the torx bolt inside the removed clip. Now remove the clip on the end of the door. You can see another torx bolt. This shows the clip behind the door handle. You can see that I damaged it a little by using a screwdriver to pry it out. You can just push it and it will pop out. Now remove the mirror control. Start at the bottom. The top slides into a hinge. The last torx socket is located at the grab handle. You can see my thumb holding up the clip and a torx socket with an extension is in the door. No we see the interior off the door. Pry a litlle bit around the entire door until it snaps free. Then release a few electric items and a door pin. Here is the door with the interior off. You next want to undo about 9 to 10 torx bolts that hold the door cover on. Here is a clip I removed on the end of the door but you do not need to do this. Now you want to connect the electrical, the battery, and roll the window up. Then dis-connect the battery and the electrical. Reach into the door and undo two 10mm nuts. This will release the exterior handle. working from inside and outside, you can work the handle partly out. Here is a close up of the switch. You pry out the old one and install a new one and connect up the electrical. This picture shows the window up. It also shows the door plate undone. I had no reason to remove the door plate. The last picture shows the door back plate installed. Before you install the interior piece I found it easier to connect the electrical and battery and roll the window down. I then dis-connected the battery before I installed the interior piece. I found this project to be very hard and would not recommend this project to anyone who has not replaced a door window. It took me about two hours so it is not a long project. The bottom line is, my window problem was not solved and I will be looking into the lock switch next. Paul
  42. 2 points
  43. 2 points
    Porsche Boxster Avic D3 Installation Instructions Instructions below: Author trieullionaire Category Boxster (986) - Accessories Submitted 04/15/2008 08:02 PM  
  44. 2 points
    I originally did this for the PCGB forum, but I thought it might be useful for Renntech members. The main fuse board is located in the driver's footwell. Remove the cover by pulling on the hole at the top of the cover. The fuses are arranged in 5 banks of 10: Rows A to E (top to bottom) and Columns 1 to 10 (left to right). A small paper chart clipped to the back of the cover shows the fuse assignments for your car and these quite often get lost. There were some subtle changes in layouts and ratings over the production period. Here is a pdf document showing the fuse assignments, for each model year (1998 to 2004) which have been taken from the wiring diagrams in the workshop manual. tec_996_fuses.pdf tec_996_fuses.pdf
  45. 2 points
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Dave, As Silver said, it should not be too difficult to track down the problem(s). All you need is a $15 multimeter. Run your engine till warm and the low voltage shows up, then let it idle and turn on the a/c and the low beam. The current draw from the alternator should now be ~50A. You can then do the following tests. I drew a diagram with the corresponding parts. Test #1: check voltage drop between point "C" (alternator casing) and "B-" (call that V(C, B-)). Note "B+' and "B-" are the actual battery terminals, not the cable connectors on the terminals. This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the ground side. Expect 0.2v or less. If your ground strap is bad, it will show up in this test. Test #2: check V(A, B+) where "A" = alternator output at the back of the alternator that you can't see (use an inspection mirror) and expect ~0.5v or less. "A" is hard to get to. I fabricated a J-shape hook using a stiff insulated wire and just literally probe it blindly from behind. Wear protective goggles here since you will be close to the drive belt, a hot engine, and the always LIVE "A". This test shows total voltage lost between the alternator and the battery on the power side. Test #3: check V(A, J) and expect ~0.2v. This tests #21, which is the infamous cable that can corrode and Porsche has also revised it. Test #4: check V(J, B+) and expect ~0.3v or less. Test #5: check V(A, C), your alternator output and expect 13.5v or higher. Your problem is gonna show up in one of the tests above.
  48. 1 point
    31 members (including you) that list Jacksonville as their location. Check with the local PCA group.
  49. 1 point
    The German Technical Inspection Association (TUV), together with the German car magazine Auto Bild, have released the result of the 2011 used car reliability report. The study is based on 7,253,709 general vehicle inspections performed by TUV's independent engineers, covering all the strong and the weak points of a large number of vehicles. We'll start with the cars that would make excellent second-hand purchases, a category dominated by Toyota and Porsche. The German car maker managed to win five age categories. One of its champions is the 911 (we are talking about the 996 generation, which was produced between 1997 and 2005), which managed to claim the top position in the following age classes: 6-7 years, 8-9 years and 10-11 years. The current incarnation of the Boxster (987), which has been around since 2004 shares the number one position of the 4 to 5 years of age with the Toyota Corolla Verso. We'll move on to the Japanese automotive producer now. The second generation of the Prius, which was produced between 2004 and 2009 manage to become the first hybrid vehicle included on the list of winners of the TUV report. The company's Auris, RAV4, as well as the aforementioned Corolla Verso are other Toyota models that managed to secure a top ten place in the 2 to 3 years of age category. At the other end of the reliability scale we find the Kia Carnival, which went down to the last place, just like it did last year. The flaws registered by the car include faulty brakes with corroded pipelines, oil loss and rusty exhaust. The same can be said about the Ford Ka (1996-2008), with the vehicle performing extremely bad especially in the 10 to 11 years of age category. The study's overall conclusion was a negative one, as the rate of cars with serious problems has increased from last year (19.5 in comparison with 17.6). However, this is also due to the fact that the TUV stations have made more complex checks.
  50. 1 point
    The jack points listed in the owners manual references using the emergency jack and placing it in the metal lip underneath the car. However, I use a hydraulic 3 ton jack and that caused some bending of the metal lip. I need to know if anyone has experience using the points that I show in my pictures... I read on pca.org that the big round silver washer is a jacking point... I would like to clarify this before I cause more damage to the metal lip.
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