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Loren

Admin
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Everything posted by Loren

  1. 1) Probably. You may need to re-route the wires through the bundle ties. 2) Probably. You may need to re-route the wires through the bundle ties. 3) The MY02 and newer cars center console is one piece (older cars were 3 piece). You will need to insert a plastic spatula into each lower side of the cover and gently press out. Then work you way up the side (bottom to top) to the central vent. Inside the center vent is a metal clip. Press in on the clip using a small screwdriver. Press and hold screwdriver upwards and simultaneously pull out the central vent with the cover.
  2. Ahh... my DSL ISP went bankrupt this last week... so I moved everything to a new site/provider. You can find it at: http://www.garlic.com/~ljcook/indexDIY.html I do plan to move all of the content from my DIY site to the forum here in the DIY section... when I get time ;)
  3. Try calling or emailing Larry Reynolds at Car Care Specialties. He usually has really great advice and has right products to solve almost any difficult paint problem.
  4. Andy, Thank you very much for the donation! :clapping: Your support will help keep this board running as we grow. Please not your title now says "Contributing Member" signifying to other your commitment to this site and the activities here. THANKS AGAIN! :D
  5. Paul, Thanks for the contribution! :clapping: Donations like yours will help keep the site running as it grows and uses more bandwidth and disk space. This site is not much about titles (or stars for that matter) and for the most part they are turned off. But the moderating team and I have decided on a couple of exceptions so... please note your title now says "Contributing Member". Hopefully, this will signify to others your personal commitment to the board and the activities here. Once again -- THANK YOU! On the second subject my DSL ISP (DSLDesigns) went bankrupt so my service had
  6. I've yet to confirm this in the MY03 schematics (since they are not published yet) but a number of owners have mentioned that this works. I did find this obscure comment in the MY03 Owners Manual: "The convertible top may only be actuated during driving on even surfaces and at wind speeds of less than 50 mph (80 km/h)."
  7. I've yet to confirm this in the MY03 schematics (since they are not published yet) but a number of owners have mentioned that this works. I did find this obscure comment in the MY03 Owners Manual: "The convertible top may only be actuated during driving on even surfaces and at wind speeds of less than 50 mph (80 km/h)."
  8. VERRRRY NIIIIICCE!!! :D :D :D
  9. If you mean item 8 in the diagram... the part number is: 999 591 712 40 Rivet 6.0 x 12.0
  10. I am not a big fan of changing one suspension componnet without change the other affected parts (i.e shocks, bumpstops, etc.). So, perhaps you want someone elses opinion? ;) If you want to lower the car that can be done with just spring changes but anything lower than 3/4 to 1 inch will make the engine block more vunerable to damage (high curbs, rocks, etc.) and you may have some problems with fairly normal driveways. Porsche sells and recommends two wheel spacer combinations. The first combo is four 5 mm spacers on all four wheels. This is sold as a kit that includes longer wheel bolts
  11. Hey, thanks to all... but remember that it's all of you that make this forum successful. I just lit the fire :cheers:
  12. Thanks! Spring spacers or wheel spacers? If I may, there is a greart article on Porsche tuned suspension in PCA Panorama. IMHO I think it is kind of a required reading before making any major decisions on suspension changes. You can find the article at: 996 Standard and Sport Suspensions Analyzed
  13. As long as it is DOT 4 (not DOT 3 or synthetic DOT 5) it should be okay. Porsche does not recommend synthetic brake fluids (I do not know why). I change back and forth with ATE Gold (Type200) and ATE Super Blue. This is great for street and pretty good for light track useage. Both have a high dry boiling point (536 degrees) and a high wet boiling point (392 degrees), but without being excessively hygroscopic (these fluids do not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids). They are the same fluid with the same properties one is yellowish gold and the other is blue. This all
  14. Is your car a Targa? I see an extra piece for the Targa (911 511 127 00) but not listed for coupe. I don't remember this on my 76 911S coupe...
  15. Factory spacers should be balanced. They are screwed onto the hub so they become part of it and should maintain the balance. If you are using aftermarket spacers I would be tempted to have the wheel balanced on the car (good shops can still do this when needed). That way the wheel weight would offset any balance issues. All JMHO... as I've never seen one out of balance. ;)
  16. Mike, The Porsche 5 mm spacer kit uses 5 mm longer wheel bolts (911 GT3, P/N: 996 361 203 90). These GT3 wheel bolts are marked with GT or with a red color on the head surface of the bolt head, or the rotating spherical cap is galvanized in red. The distance from the bolt head flange (not the rounded washer) to the bolt tip is approx. 50 mm. The standard wheel bolts, P/N: 996 361 203 00 are approx. 45 mm. I'm sure you can order them separately. 5 mm spacer kit
  17. If you click on either donate button, then when the PayPal page comes up click on the "If you have never paid through PayPal, Click Here" button and it will allow you to use VISA or MasterCard. THANKS! :cheers:
  18. If you put the car in neutral and press the clutch in and out, do you still hear it? If so, it is likely the clutch throw out bearing.
  19. Fuel pressure line? or vacuum line? I emailed you some info on the fuel pressure lines.
  20. Thanks for the site comments... :D IMHO... It's not about bleeding it about changing the brake fluid. High temps can cause brake fluid to break down and absorb moisture. When the moisture in the fluid gets hot it vaporizes and become a gas... not good for braking performance. Depending on the number of hot laps at a DE I would suggest every 2-4 events and DE's are the toughest on brakes. Brake fluid is cheap (about $12 liter) and changing it is only about an hour once you get the hang of it. A lot of folks go back and forth with the ATE Gold and ATE Super Blue that way they can easily te
  21. Whoohoo! Looks great Don! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: The crests and silver on the backs of the seats is a super look too!
  22. I agree with Jeff that if the system has not been drained then you don't need to do anything special for PSM or Traction Control. You may want to bleed the clutch though. It is not very hard and you can find details at this link: Brake/Clutch Fluid Change and Bleeding Instructions
  23. Courtesy of Nasa Racer Pete (used with his permission) - posted by Loren Well, there I was...backing into a parking space against a curb and I was in a hurry and I heard it...SCRAPE! One fraction of a second...barely moving. Got out and looked at the rim...OOOOOOWWWWW! Well, no need to fear...I've done this enough times to have a easy way to do home repairs with a few simple items. Note that this ONLY covers light scuffs, this isn't meant to be used to repair a DAMAGED wheel or one where the scuffs cause significant damage to the rim. This is only for those annoying superficial scuff
  24. Home Curb-Rash Repair Courtesy of Nasa Racer Pete (used with his permission) - posted by Loren Well, there I was...backing into a parking space against a curb and I was in a hurry and I heard it...SCRAPE! One fraction of a second...barely moving. Got out and looked at the rim...OOOOOOWWWWW! Well, no need to fear...I've done this enough times to have a easy way to do home repairs with a few simple items. Note that this ONLY covers light scuffs, this isn't meant to be used to repair a DAMAGED wheel or one where the scuffs cause significant damage to the rim. This is only for
  25. Cool! Thanks Don :clapping: I can build all of my former Porsches there.
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