Loren

You can find (and download) a generic PCM2 manual in our manual section here.

I use an bulb type anti freeze tester that shows you the freeze protection (in degrees) on one side and boil over protection on the other. Most good auto parts stores have these.

My coolant is 6 years old next month. It is neither dirty or broken down. I test it at least once a year and it has not lost any of it's cooling properties. Unless you have a leak or somehow dilute the mixture too much with water I see no reason to change it.

On a Carrera this is not an easy task. You must remove all the cars underbody panels and disconnect several hoses to completely drain the coolant. To refill, Porsche highly recommends uses a vacuum pull method. This method of drawing coolant in minimizes the chances of trapping air in the system (a real problem in this design). If you don't use the vacuum method you will have air trapped in the system that could take weeks to bleed out. I've seen the vacuum method done it it works very well so I highly recommend it.

Do a search here for coolant type there have been many postings on the Porsche coolant and the OEM company that makes it for Porsche.

It is very similar to the 996 install. If you want the full switched control then you would need to run the wiring through the car from the engine compartment to the dash. Add the relay and wiring to the fuse panel, add the vacuum connections in the engine compartment and mount the mufflers.

The signal for activating the flaps in the main exhaust mufflers is provided by maps in the DME control module, not via the vehicle speedometer as was done with previously

version systems.

Loren, is there a difference between the 996 and 997 sport exhaust muffler?

Yes.

The Porsche TSB is 4 pages of how to fix it. It requires new parts and the drivers side parts are different from the passenger side parts.

You can view the TSB by becoming a Contributing Member (a minimum $25 donation) or you can take the care to a shop and have them perform the procedure.

PCM 2 was introduced in the MY03 cars - so no, in will not work on a MY01.

PCM 1 was optionally installed in MY 1998 to MY 2002 vehicles.

PCM 2 was optionally installed in MY 2003 and up vehicles.

See the topic here.

An engine vacuum leak will throw a CEL in almost every case.

Has anything electrical been added or changed recently? aftermarket radio, amp, phone, etc.?

There is only one belt even on a turbo - worth a check to see if it is slipping.

Well, from all the symptoms you describe... if the voltage is too low then the fuel pump will not run right - which will make the motor run rough which will lower the vacuum to the brake booster. Also, when you run the AC both front fender radiator fans go to high speed and stay on until the AC is turned off. What happens if you turn the lights on? Same, better, or worse?

If there were an air leak at the motor then I suspect you would have a CEL by now. If you have a scanner it might be worth a look to see if there are any codes. Does your CEL light up when you turn the ignition to on? (or is the bulb burnt out).

I would start by checking all the cars ground points for loose, rust or other corrosion. With all the weird electrical problems it sounds like low voltage to several components. I'll send you a drawing via PM here that shows all the ground points for a RHD 996 - it ought to be close to a TT.

The problem could also be a battery that is not holding a charge. How old is your battery? Most only last 4-5 years. Have someone check the specific gravity readings and make sure all the cells are good.

Third possibility is the alternator is not putting enough current out to charge the battery and run the electrics. Not unheard of but it would be last choice.

Thank you, how can I find this: TSB 6/98 5737 Inner Door Release Inoperative (dated 12-17-98).

All TSBs are available to view (here) online to Contributing Members.

Hi, I have the same problem with my 1997 boxster how can I find this TSB 6/98 5737 Inner Door Release Inoperative (dated 12-17-98). ?

Thank you. Gonzalo

All TSBs are available to view (here) online to Contributing Members.

Always use the whole TSB number. Porsche reuses the 4 digit number when the topic area is the same. For example there are 3 TSBs that have the 6128 number but they are actually 9/97 6128, 3/04 6128, and 3/99 6128.

Glad you got it fixed!

2 hours labor for a 15 minute job? Oh my...

At least it is fixed now :cheers:

Could we have the year, exact model, mileage, US or RoW car please?

Did you read the note in step 3 about lighting up the switch? Did you try that?

The only power close is the window switches as the ashtray light only comes on with the headlights.

All 300 series faults are misfires that can damage the catalytic convertor. P0300 is multiple misfires and P0304 would be cylinder 4, P0305 would be cylinder 5 etc.

P1316, P1317, P1318, 1319 are also misfire detection emissions relevant. Again these refer to cylinders 4, 5 and 6.

P0150 Oxygen Sensor Ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Intercore Short Circuit or Limited Voltage Increase.

So the problem you fixed was on the 4,5,6 engine bank side?

If it was then you likely got the problems. Now you will need to wait and see if the light comes on again.

You can buy an exchange engine from Porsche for under $7000 and I'm pretty sure they come with a warranty.

I found a second source (AllData) and they say gear oil too. Makes sense to me - I think the service manual is wrong. I will correct the DIY page.

Seems as if I can get a hold of the Shell recommended product.  However, (and not to question Loren's recommendation) the Porsche dealer stated that the same Shell transaxle oil goes into the front diff too.  The dealer tech seemed concerned when I said that I would be putting ATF into the front diff.  Loren - are you sure on your info? - I value your opinion and do not want to put the wrong fluid in by mistake.  Thanks.

I have never done this on a C4. I quoted you what the service manual says (see below). The service manual could be wrong - the easiest way to tell for sure is to take the fill plug out and stick your finger inside to touch the oil. If it comes out with a red colored very light oil then it is ATF if it comes out with a thicker yellow/brown oil then it is gear oil. Please let us know if the service manual is wrong!

Well, if you don't want to pay the dealer then I would use the Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.

...

I don't think I would. For the reasons explained above (gearbox and diff in the same casing and hence using the same oil), I'd use a transaxle-specific oil.

Almost all major oil manufacturers make them, Mobil 1 calls it PTX, Shell calls it Transaxle, Castrol calls it TAF-X. There is a reason why Porsche (or in fact GETRAG) recommend a specific oil.

Obviously you can pour in whatever you want, but if you knowingly discard the manufacturer's advice, then don't complain if your gearbox (and in particular the synchromesh) doesn't last as long as you might have hoped.

Also, I wouldn't necessarily go with people's recommendations "ABC is a good oil for Porsche boxes". Very few people understand the specifics of gearboxes, not even car manufacturers themselves (they just buy them in) and certainly not the mechanic at the dealership. But why not just go with the gearbox manufacturer's recommendation and be on the safe side?

Cheers,

Uwe

PS: I know that the old G50-bases boxes used any old 75W-90 API GL5, but the synchro was different and the change intervals were shorter.

Mobilube PTX is not sold in th US - except by Porsche dealers at a 5X markup.

Mobil's Specs:

Mobilube PTX (synthetic) 75W-90 GL-4, GL-5

Mobilube 1 SCH (synthetic) 75W-90 GL-5,PG-1,PG-2

If your car was built before March 25th, 2004, as of the following VINs:

99 84S 62 2452 USA then they can do the TSB and be reimbursed by Porsche.

Perhaps you should suggest they read TSB 7/04 9662 Insufficient Range of Remote Control (dated 8-13-04)

If the customer complains that the range of the remote control continues to be insufficient (e.g., even after the remote control battery has been changed), the antenna lead should to be rerouted as described in work procedure (see page 2) in order to increase the reception strength of the antenna, thereby increasing the range of the remote control.

Congrats! :thumbup:

Follow the manual and you will never be denied any warranty claim.

Start by checking the fuses.

Once the air bag light is only a dealer or shop with a PST2 (or PIWIS) tester can turn it off.

I got mine from Wiha Quality Tools for about $8 plus shipping.

http://www.wihatools.com/773serie.htm