Loren

Oct. 14, 2005 Updated

Almost all are now final and complete for both US and Canada.

(Special thanks to Poursha)

Excuse my ignorance...  But there must be a different compartment for the differential oil then the transmission oil compartment. I have the transmission oil instructions. Now I need the differential.

Yes and no. If you use the stock harness the brake light will work but the spoiler light will be on all the time.

You will either need an Aerokit harness or rewire the pins the existing harness.

See the thread here.

Doug,

Sorry about your problems.

Just make sure they put the same version on both sides. Porsche warns about this in the installation TSB.

It is on the air box and you will need a special security Torx ( a Torx with a hole in the center. There is a Boxster discussion here - similar but don't use those part numbers.

Well, you might try to find an independent shop with a PST2 so they can read out any ABS or TC faults (stuck valve?). Plus they can activate the ABS and TC pumps during bleeding with a PST2.

Long and short of it. Purchased the car (99 C2) last year and haven't really had any trouble at all with it (sans replacing water rez). On a whim I take it to a PCA DE at No Problem near Baton Rouge LA along with my track Toyota Supra. Go for a session and 1/2 and notice brakes are really cooking and decided to call it quits - was first time in 996 on track (stock everything!). Drive it home and take to it work for a few weeks - notice brakes are getting worse and worse. Order pads, rotors and some ATE blue. 

Make time to do brake job and everything is going to plan but cannot seem to bleed brakes. Order some additional fluid just in case and try again. Still no go (pumping, vacuum bleed and pressure bleed). Order new master cylinder from thepartsbin.com and put it on (bench bled no less). No better. Order new brake booster and put it on. Not really better but notice when car is OFF the brakes are good all the time and with car ON brakes are minimal most of the time. Disconnect vacuum from booster (plugging vacuum line to and from) and brakes are awesome - hook it back up and brake pedal is inconsistent (long, short, spong,etc) and not safe for the road. Problem!

:cursing: 

I think it has to do with the source of the vacuum for the brakes (there doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak as car runs fine). I don't have a manual (probably get a 997 soon) and don't really feel like taking it to my "local dealer" as they are clueless and will just start replacing things (they make me mad!). 

What can I check or replace next? I saw something about a check valve and pressure tank on the vacuum diagram on the engine lid. IDEAS? Class? Class? Anyone? I work on all my "rides" and have the necessary tools, equipment and information to most everything - I hated to ask this question but I am stuck without a book to help point me in the right direction. I have no problems with working on motorcycles or turbocharged monsters but I've met my match with the German engineering.

PS: The rennlist.com forum is great but the search didn't really have anything.  The guys over there told me to crosspost it here.  I looked around and didn't really see anything here regarding this issue.

Thanks in advance!

__________________

- Marshall | 99 996 C2 | Mirage Metallic, B&M SS, S03's

Does the car have Traction Control or LSD?

There is a DIY here.

Well, it wouldn't hurt since you don't know when it was last changed. It is one more variable to remove.

Another thing to try would be to remove the battery connection for at least 5 minutes (be sure you have your radio code and radio stations written down). Disconnecting the battery will force the DME to reset and re-establish it's levels. After you re-connect the battery it should hunt at idle for a few minutes and then level out.

I am thinking of Trann oil change. From this post and another one I figured that tiptronic and automatic transmission oil changes are not DIY. Does this apply to Manual Boxsters too?

What does the idle do? Does it hunt? (go up and down) or does it stumble and almost stall?

Also, I didn't see fuel filter on your list... when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Folks... the key here is that if your stock shifter is shifting correctly then the B&M will also - as long as you mark the cable positions (or count the threads) before the change over. I have probably done 2 or 3 dozen of these and I have never had to use the alignment tool on a car that was already shifting correctly.

Ask them for the error code that the OBD II is recording. It should be Pxxxx and could be more than one code.

I don't see one for 45k but here is the standard schedule for a 1995 Carrera:

911 Carrera 15,000 Mile Maintenance

1. Diagnosis System: read fault memory

2. Change engine oil (no oil filter change)

3. Check condition of all drive belts

4. Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids)

5. Check engine air filter and replace if necessary

6. Replace particle filters (climate control system)

7. Check tightness of hose connections (crankcase ventilation)

8. Fuel system visual inspection for leaks or damage

9. Intake air system: check hoses, lines and connections for tightness

10. Check handbrake operation and adjustment

11. Brake system: visual inspection of pads, rotors and lines

12. Clutch: check play or final position of pedal

13. Throttle valve: check for ease of movement and full throttle position

14. Resonance flap: check operation

15. Steering gear: check for leaks or damage

16. Track rod links: check for play or damage

17. Power steering: check fluid level

18. Check all suspension components for tightness or damage

19. Axle joints: visual inspection of dust boots

20. Manual transmission/axle drives: check oil level

21. Automatic transmission: check oil levels

22. Drive shafts: visual inspection for leaks or damage

23. Exhaust system: visual inspection for leaks or damage

24. Tires: check condition and pressure

25. Lubricate door hinges and rear lid hinges

26. Check door, lid locks and safety hooks on front lid for tightness and operation

27. Safety belts: check condition and operation

28. Check all electrical equipment and warning lights

29. Check headlights for alignment and operation

30. Check horn operation

31. Check ignition circuits 1 and 2 with system tester 9288

32. Road test: check brakes, parking brake, clutch, cruise control, steering, heating, AlC and instruments

911 Carrera 30,000 Miles Maintenance

These operations are to be performed along with the operations in the 15,000 mile maintenance.

1. Change oil and both oil filters

2. Replace all spark plugs

3. Change automatic transmission oil

4. Replace air filter

911 Carrera 60,000 Mile Maintenance

These operations are to be performed in addition to the 15,000 and 30,000 mile maintenances.

1. Replace fuel filter

2. Change transmission oil manual transmission

3. Change differential oil automatic transmission

Porsche suggests inspection of hoses at 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, 120,000 miles but does not recommend replacement unless leaking or damaged.

Here are the hose clamp locations (both pics for C2) (a C4 is slightly different):

Loren,

Do you have any pics or shop manual diagrams of the reference points mentioned in the spec?

Karl

Front axle

Measure from wheel contact surface to the lower edge of the hexagon-head bolt of the tension-strut screw connection to the body.

Rear axle

Measure from wheel contact surface to the locating bore in the rear-axle side section (between toe and camber eccentrics).

This is absolutely the easiest DIY for the beginner. and you will save yourself over $150.  Not sure if the DIY pages are for contributing members only but if they are I suggest joining rennlist as a contributing member.  I am going to change my oil this weekend and wouldn't mind filming it and posting a quicktime movie of it if anybody would be interested.

Cheers,

Dell

Surely you mean donate to Renntech.org? :rolleyes:

Rennlist is a fine forum but the technical stuff is here... :lol:

 

ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils. 

 

Loren, would it be possible to tell from TSB what Mobil 1 weight would be recommended for "severe duty" (oil changes more frequently due to lots of city driving, more cold starts, etc.) in a warm weather climate.

Failing that, is the TSB available online anywhere?

Temperature wise Porsche states:

Above -12° F. (-25° C): all oils approved by Porsche for the vehicle type to be considered

Below -12° F. (-25° C:: all oils approved by Porsche for the vehicle type to be considered which have the SAE class OW at lower temperatures.

Contributing Members here can view all TSBs. If you would like to donate just click on the Donate to RennTech.org. Contributing Members also get a special forum just for Contributing Members, larger personal mail box limits, they can send attachments in personal mails and they have much higher image storing limits.

Well I've read the owners manual from cover tro cover, and now fully understand EVERYTHING there is to know about my Boxster........NOT!

Anyway.  The mystery rear spoiler light appears to be working just fine.

As soon as I start to move it goes out. But now..............I have a CEL!

"low cat efficency bank 1" 

O2?

Very few bad O2 sensors (IMHO) more likely an intake or emissions leak.

Hehehe...

Hint - how do you get a RoW car in North America?

ncp oils are synthetic (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. G rated oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils.

The TSB for "Porsche Approved Oils" is 8 pages long. Most of the common ones are in the list below:

Mobil 1 0W-40 ncp GL (factory fill)

Mobil 1 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 5W-50 ncp GL

Castrol Syntec 5W-50 5W-50 ncp G

Castrol Syntec 5W-40 5W-40 ncp GL

Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula 0W-40 ncp GL

Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40 ncp GL

Exactly the same issue with my '99...What was the number of the TSB?

Thanks,

Yes, the vent is the oval opening in your pic.

The supplied tubing is larger than ours but it is not a problem as the small plastic coupler is large on one end (for the new supplied tubing) and small on the other end (for our original tubing). I did have to cut the original battery fitting off the the original tubing as it seemed glued on. The clear plastic is original and the black is supplied with the battery.