Loren

Don,

Is this what you and I were talking about a few months ago (996 563 421 01)?

Here is my 0.02 cents worth (yes, that's less than 2 cents)...

I don't think a dealer would go through a shopping list TSB's. Let's face it, dealers are in business to make money. So lets think of their logical thought pattern: Will PCNA (or PAG) reimburse them the parts and labor cost? Yes, no problem they fix it for free. No, they tell you what it will cost. Next step is you complain to the dealer who says "we can't do anything about it" (obviously they do not want to pay for it). So, you decide you need to complain to the regional PCNA (or PAG) rep. I think this is where having a TSB for the "known" problem and a history of your cars problem and a civil temper -- may get you somewhere. PCNA (or PAG) do not want unhappy customers so at this point it becomes "is this a reasonable request" -- yes, or no. I know of a number of people that have taken this approach and got their problem solved. So, I think you can go a further with 1. a single problem; 2. pertinent facts (your car history) and; 3. knowledge supported facts (TSB) -- rather than threatening a class action law suit.

So ask yourself what is a reasonable mileage (or engine hours) that you must have before you are willing to pay for a repair such as RMS replacement. If and when Porsche decides to stop replacing RMS (and engines) then perhaps other action is needed.

End of :soapbox:

I don't think so. The hardest part will be moving/maneuvering the cables to the new location.

If you mean the Cup Car brakes:

Front brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 350 mm

Brake disc thickness: 33 mm

6 piston – aluminium brake caliper.

Rear brake disc: One piece steel Diameter = 330 mm

Brake disc thickness: 28 mm

4 piston – aluminium brake caliper.

The shipping pads on a Cup Car are: Front axle Pagid P50, rear axle RS14 green

If this is what you need let me know and it will take me a day or two look up the Porsche Motosports part numbers.

The plastic rivets should just pop out usually without damage. I bought some extras before I started but never used them.

I added a cooling diagram to my DIY page last week that hopefully illustrates the hose path a little better (I could not get a photo because there was not enough light to see it).

I would check the wiring harness that runs to the 3rd brake light. It could be that they disconnected that harness to repair the bumper and forgot to reconnect it.

The best book I know of is: 911 Porsche Performance Handbook by Bruce Anderson.

Bruce's website is here

Do you mean the seat belt recepticle?

If so, the MY02 on GT3 and Boxster use (drivers side) 996 803 183 09

Mike,

Absolutely no problem.

Let me know if you are interested in being a moderator.... seriously! :beer:

Mike,

You are too fast.... maybe we need to make you a moderator? :clapping:

I used rubbing alcohol on the visors (not isopropyl). Also, make sure you keep it away from the hinges or other parts. I used Q-tips and alcohol will soften the rubberized like labels and then they will just peel off. Take your time as the alcohol takes some time to work... probably 15-20 minute per visor.

The velcro is also just stuck on. It might help to warm the velcro slightly with a hair dryer. If you still have sticky stuff remain on the carpet use a gum or tar remover designed for indoor carpeting.

Have a look at this thread in the DIY section.

Here is the "latest" tank part number: 996 106 147 06

Jeff (Tool Pants) will have to get back with you about removal as I've never taken one out of a Boxster.

Are you sure that it is not the AC condensation drain? ...it is the only drain close to the passenger compartment.

What year is your car? ...there have been 4 different tanks and 2 different caps.

You can download the B&M instructions here (about 2.5 MB). They are actually very good.

There is a DIY here.

Be sure and double check the part numbers with your dealer/supplier as they sometimes change without notice.

There is a TSB that covers "Scratching or scraping noise" where they rework (file down) the scraping portion of the upper pedal. Your car should have a newer pedal that isn't supposed to do that though... hmmm.

There is also some mention "Squeaking and binding" of both the boost spring sticking and/or the clutch master cylinder sticking which just requires some special lubricant. Worse case they should replace the pedal assembly.

You've got mail...

Yeah, those sound nice as long as they don't vibrate loose and rattle around in the trunk. The little rubber nutserts do pull out pretty easily so yo might want to make them small enough that you can't get too much torque on them. (IMHO)

Well, if you are sure the latch is released (can you hear or feel movement?). Perhaps if you have someone pull on the emergency release cable while you push down and slightly slide to side on the hood (not on the logo as it will break off) you can release the catch enough to free it.

If not, then it is going to be an expensive fix.

What happened did someone over-torque the rubber nutserts? (ask me how I would know ;) )

999 500 092 00 are the rubber nutserts

Unfortunately Porsche does not list the screws for the air cleaner separately (see image below).

999 590 045 40 are the battery cover hold down (plastic) screws

999 590 046 40 are the small plastic inserts they turn into (just in case)

Here are some things to go over with your service advisor...

1. Ask them to: Please check and fix any other oil leaks (intemediate shaft, cam covers, from pulley seal) at the same time. Also, check and replace the clutch if needed.

2. Ask them if they will be checking the installation position of the crankshaft with special tool 9699/1.

3. Make sure you get documentation of the part numbers used and approriate dates for potential future warranty claims.

4. Ask them to pray for your car... ;)

Karl,

I think you are correct. I think you can tell the MOST system there is no radio (at least that it can recognize).

I'll send you the pages from the TSB via email.

BTW... there are actually two different CDR-23's used in the MY03's:

996 645 128 01 Radio with internal amplification (Replaces with 996 645 128 X)

996 645 129 01 Radio with external amplification (Replaces with 996 645 129 X)

L741 for Black (water based)

L747 for Black (conventional)