Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About jpru2001

  • Rank

Profile Fields

  • From
    Columbia SC
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2004 Cayenne S
  1. quick follow up: secured service records from previous owner, it was a faulty headlight switch. dealer had quoted him $400 for the fix. the part was $75, plug and play, replaced in literally 5 minutes and full headlight function has returned.
  2. Hello all, we just purchased a 2016 GTS. Superb vehicle. I've sorted through all of the used car issues I have found except one. The headlights stay on all day even in sunny weather. The headlight dial does nothing and the red light above the auto position stays lit no matter where I move the dial. The dipped beam headlight indicator on the speedo stays on also. So of course DRLs are always off. I looked through the PCM menus, the lights menu on the speedo, and the owners manual and see nothing that indicates the DRLs could be cut off or the car could have auto or the headlights permanently turned on. I suspect the previous owner had the dealer alter the headlight function using PIWIS and I will need a dealer or indy with PIWIS to return it to the default mode. The other thought is a bad rain sensor that keeps the headlights on. Does anyone have any other input? Just want to make sure I am not missing a simple solution before I take it into our trust indy next week. Thanks all in advance!
  3. Yeah this isn't an issue with a cayenne....it's an issue with the owner....Secondly buying a new porsche? How does that resolve your issue? Sounds like you have good problem solving abilities..... Cars in general have life limited parts....the faster and more luxurious they are the more life limited parts they seem to have. With a cayenne you get both. Owning a car like a cayenne is a hobby. If you can't handle that then go get a camry. I got so sick of the problems my camry had I sold it lol. battery, starter, alternator, brake calipers, front shocks, rack and pinion, power steering all in a six month period....of course it was my wife's car since before we got married so probably not one ounce of maintenance beyond oil changes.
  4. I am in a Cayenne, but had that P0492 and it turned out pump had failed. Impellar blades were all broken up. Found another unit online. Also had trusted Indy tell me that the air filter in front of pump gets brittle/dry rots after 10 years or so, will break apart, pump will suck bits through and snap blades...then blades get lodged and disrupt airflow. so pump can be running because you hear the motor, but impellar blades are shot and its not really doing anything. may not be your issue, but happened to me and Indy told me he has seen it a few times. I was getting P0492 about once every couple weeks before I fixed it. edit: could not tell a difference in running rough/idle/etc and don't see how that would be related.
  5. ahh ok I didn't know the A/C temp/dual zone/auto was an option, figured that was standard. can't help with the lights but I'd trying playing with the buttons ;-)
  6. my opinions: instrument cluster: as said above, mine goes out the warmer it gets...I just live with it. But yeah I have seen several repair services in the 300-500 range. can also find used clusters on ebay. A/C: not sure what you are asking? you can set it to auto to go to whatever temperature you select... cornering light: it is usually the bulb or the metal contacts. one 6mm bolt takes the headlights out (I am not very mechanical and can do it)....you slide it in and out, when replacing it you have to tighten the bolt while pushing the housing back on...as it slides in, the metal contacts on the back of headlight housing mate with the mounted contacts on the frame. they are very sensitive and have to be slid back in perfectly, or any number of malfunctions or lights out error messages can happen. Some people even remove the contacts so that they can fasten the two pairs together to ensure good contact. not sure if this makes sense but I think pelican parts has a good tutorial. I did it the other day by myself and I am a mechanic idiot. but the cornering lights do go out, and they are also a common one lost when the contacts are not mated perfectly. I had a shop do it the first time I lost a blinker...by the time they were done none of the lights were working...in researching this on the internet I read about it being common because headlights are not put back in correctly. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/07-BODY-Changing_Light_Bulbs/07-BODY-Changing_Light_Bulbs.htm rear side lights: not sure what you are asking remote: touch the hatch button and it unlocks....hold the hatch button down and it pops open just the glass portion.
  7. We had good weather today and I drive home with no AC....no vibration at all...I saw several people trying that but never saw the explanation of what a likely diagnosis is if that is the case....any guidance?
  8. I know most on here have a more significant issue, but I developed the idle drop vibration...relearned throttle response (thanks Loren) solved it 50%...ran a tank of Techron...relearned it again...90% gone. About to do plugs and clean throttle body and see if that knocks it out...if not, I am sure the remaining slight vibration is engine mounts...but for a grand I am going to live with it. :-)
  9. are you looking to buy? I am in Columbia and went all the way down to Florida to save a few thousand.
  10. just looked at the posting is deleted....wonder if someone informed him.
  11. There are 05-06 Cayenne Ss out there for 10-13k. I think the dude thinks he has a turbo. I mean, the S is pretty fast and sounds great as it is, I could tell people that my S is a turbo and any non enthusiast would believe it.
  12. I wonder if the seller is intentionally misleading or truly doesn't know...I wonder if he changed the decals on the back...
  13. Do you have the premium Bose system with Amp and MOST connections? If so, then you cannot just replace the head unit. You either need to buy a MOST interface/adapter which are around $600-$700 or so, or replace the Amp as well and pull out all the fiber optics and replace with more conventional wiring. At the couple of places I'd trust locally to do that, I have priced it and yes the install is as much as the equipment and that is just the nature of it. That being said, there are a few complete replacements that some members on this forum have done and documented that look fantastic (although super complex for someone like me).
  14. sorry in my car it was right side dash, fuses 11 and 12, I think if I recall a 30A and a 15A. And just to update 10 days later have had zero issues since I did this.
  15. update: finally located online fuse diagram that is honestly more complete than what is in my car, pulled fuses for 30 seconds for radio and amp, replaced, cranked car, fully functional immediately. so...happy camper for now. hopefully it doesn't resurface. So a couple days of internet searching paid off. Thanks for your contributions.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.