Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
Found 13 results
Hi Guys, I am a proud owner of a 2010 Porsche Cayenne Base model and I have been having a intermittent Engine hesitation issue. the following is a detailed issue of whats been happening, any suggestions that would help resolve this is appreciated. About a month ago I was coming back from Roosevelt lake ,AZ which is about 3 hours from Tucson, it was a hot day 113deg, I was already in town and the gas gauge read about 1/8 of a tank and I was starting to move from a light when all of the sudden it felt like the engine stalled and came back on for a second then it did it again and my CEL came on. I thought maybe my gauge was off and i was running out of fuel so i found the nearest gas station and filled up, I drove home and connected my car to my Icarsoft Computer and it was showing error P2293 Rail Pressure Control, I cleared the error and decided I would drive the car and see if it would happened again, Two months and hundreds of miles of mixed city and highway driving went by without a hitch. Last week I had to go to LA so I packed up the car (4 passengers and luggage) and headed out. About two hours in on I8 right before Yuma it was 114 degrees outside and I was cruising at about 85 MPH, the gas gauge read about 5/8 of a tank all oil and coolant temps were normal when all of the sudden the hesitation came back, it would run normal then hiccup then run normal, ect.. and the CEL came back on, this went on for about 20 minutes but I was still able to maintain 80-85 MPH. After 20 minutes of this we decided to pull into a gas station and fill the tank with gas to see if anything would change and wouldn't you know that after filling up and setting off again over the mountain pass towards San Diego the car ran without a hitch, we averaged 77 MPH all the way to LA, but we would stop to fill up whenever the gauge read 5/8. after a couple of hours the CEL turned off on its own. On our way back to Tucson we decided to fill up in San Diego and not fill up until it started to act up, and to my surprise the car once more ran flawlessly. We didn't fill up until the gas low warning chime came on in Marana, AZ. The highest temperature this day was 104 deg. We filled the tank and made it home without incident. The next day I connected my car to my Icarsoft computer and it was showing the following error codes: P2293 Rail Pressure control, P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected, P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected, P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected. Could this be ambient temperature related? Vapor lock at high ambient temps? If it was the fuel pumps you think it would have failed again on the way back, right? This has to be happening to other people with 2007-2010 Cayenne Base models. Any input will help. Thanks in Advance. Sincerely; Paul
I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me. When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home. Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant. This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running. Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again Sent from my iPhone
Hi All, I am battling fuel pump (I believe) issues. I ahve replaced the pumps int he tank as well as the filter and sending unit. All coils and plugs have been replaced and one injector was bad (P0203 code). In any case I am still suffering form the "slump band" in the RPM range while under load (driving). GTS is a 6 speed manual so it's very easy to put the vehicle in the slump. I hooked it up to the Durametric this morning and took it for a drive. I utilized the logging feature and initiated the following: 1) Fuel Level (53) 2) Pressure Upstream of Throttle Body (902.7 mBar) 3) Fuel High Pressure Set Point (40 BAR) 4) Fuel High PRessure Acutal Value (40 BAR) Problem is I'm unsure of what the factory spec is for mBAR and BAR pressures. If anyone can let me know it would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 2009 997.2 PDK Carrera 2 and am getting a loss of power and this error code: 2510: Fuel high-pressure control - adaptation. Value below lower limit value I believe this means my HPFP is dead and am looking for the workshop procedure for replacing the high pressure fuel pump HPFP. I have looked far and wide for a DIY tutorial on this, but found nothing. My local stealership will do the work for $900 labor plus parts. I have sourced the pump for $850 and want to do the work myself. The pump looks readily accessible at the back right end of the engine, facing the rear bumper. I am happy to write this up as a DIY with pics if someone can forward me the workshop manual pages or procedure?
I have a 1998, ROW C2. Over the past two weeks I have noticed that the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. The gauge will read high (3/4) but as I drive, the gauge will slowly drop to the correct reading over about 15 minutes. As the car sits, either at work for the day or in the garage overnight, when I go to start the car, the gauge will read over 1/4 tank higher than when I shut it off. Then, as I drive, it will drop to where I think it should be (or remember where it should be). I plan to pull the sender this weekend and check the connections, but I don't think it is the float as why would it rise while the car is turned off? Is it possible to troubleshoot the cluster gauge? I have a Durametric so I will attempt the fuel level calibration when I have pumped down the tank. Or am I just fooling myself and the gauge is bad?
dyerhaus posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I’m having a weird ‘fuel thing’ with my 2001 Porsche 911… So, I’ve been thinking it gets terrible gas mileage, compared to my 986 Boxster. I expected slightly less, but, it seems pretty bad. Now, I can’t help but wonder if there’s actually something amiss about it. When I fill the tank completely—and I mean ‘topping it off’ to get every last drop in, my fuel gauge usually looks like this (see the first picture, 01). That picture was taken immediately after starting the car after filling up the tank (I was still at the pump). There have been occasions where the needle has gone all the way to just slightly past the 4/4 mark (just like the Boxster always does), but it usually lands below as seen in the photo. However, today I was down to the warning light coming on telling me I’m low on gas. I stopped to fill it up and it only took about $30 worth. That’s odd, with gas prices here and filling up an almost empty tank, that should have been between $44 and $48 (that's what the Boxster runs). I tried to top it off but it wouldn’t take any more, as if the tank was full. So, I got in the car and started it, and (just like before) this picture was taken immediately after starting the car after filling up the tank (I was still at the pump) - (see the second picture, 02). Just barely over half a thank. Any idea what could be going on with this?
First time post... hope to start contributing to the forum now! 09 GTS with 93k and excellent maintenance history, recently getting long cranking times and sometimes rough idle at startup. Starter is working properly so we can rule that out - not sure what to tackle first, coils? fuel pumps? HPFP? Durametric codes: 1023 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary circuit - upper limit value exceeded 1026 Fuel high pressure implausible - value below lower limit value The 1023 keeps coming back when cleared but never throws a CEL, the 1026 has been very intermittent but will throw a CEL. I swapped coils 3 and 4 (assuming D is coil 4 and coil 4 is rear-passenger side of engine?) and still get the 1023 code for "D" but no misfire codes. I tried pulling fuses 13 and 14, independently, and truck starts on both fuel pumps (with long crank). Logged with Durametric the fuel setpoint vs. actual pressure and I get 40bar at idle and it seems to keep up OK while driving up to 120bar at WOT. Plugs were changed at 80k but I believe to be on original coils and fuel pumps. So before I start throwing parts at this, any advice on what to troubleshoot next? Still fairly new to the Durametric so anythink I'm missing there with respect to data logging? Cheers, Eric
I was driving a new to me 04 S in the mountains of Tennessee last weekend. With about a 1/4 tank (maybe a little less but the warning had not come on) going up or down a hill (I can't remember) on the interstate, the engine sputtered and quit as if running out of gas. No check engine light. Pulled to the side, waited. It started. Went 10 miles, same thing. Got to an exit. Got gas. No more problems. Other facts. I recently installed two new fuel pumps. Also, I cannot fill the tank at a gas station at the normal rate without the pump quitting -- as it there is a vent that won't let air be displaced. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Started the vehicle this AM around 10 to leave and the idle starts dropping right away but slowly while in park. Drops really low, then picks back up. Does this a few times while I'm going OH****. Put er in Drive and the idle drops again. It dies. I start it right back up and if I gave it gas same drop then dead. I'm going to test the other fuel pump with fuse on primary pulled. Last week we had humming coming from the fuel pump but it went away. While driving last day or so idle seemed rough. I'll be looking for the tech writeup on the fuel pump tests.
Hi, My fuel door lock does not work when I lock the car. I have LPG so I don't use the fuel door much but I am worried that thieves might steal my petrol since it is pretty easy to syphon the fuel dry. The main problem I have is that I have a 100 litre gas cylinder in the trunk and therefore it is hard to get to the wall of the trunk to see if I can fix it as I have seen some posts on the topic. I was thinking of replacing the original screw on tap with a lockable one but in the Porsche manual it says that only original porsche taps are permitted. Is there any Porsche lockable tap available, and if not, will I be able to safely use a different brand lockable tap? Thanks, Roli
Hi All, Just joined Your group and hope to share some experience with the Cayenne S, many thanks in advance for helping me out. Is just bought US version of 2005 Cayenne S and recently had some issues with the car. It first started with the starter which needed replacing. After that just after i got my car back a CEL showed up. At this moment i only know the error description not the code. It says that the car had problems with poor mixture of fuel and air and therefore the RPM goes little bit wild up to 1200 RPM. I keep on wondering if that is someway connected to the job that was done - starter replacement? The RPM floats only when I am on N,D or try to park not pushing the gas pedal. I will surely try to get some codes this Saturday, when having my oil and filter changed. I sincerely doubt that it would be a gas cap as It came up after i picked the car from the repair shop. Any ideas what the cause might be? The light is solid and doesn't blink.
I am about to lose my mind. Here's the story. I have an 02' Boxster S. I fill the tank, and it gets completely full... of course, only after manipulating the stupid pump handle to get the tank full as it shuts off every 2 to 3 gallons.... but I digress. I drive the car thereafter, and it runs perfect! Until.... just below 3/4 tank... should be approximately 4 gallons remaining. And then the car acts like it has freakin' water in the gas.... it quits, or stumbles, and shuts off for a moment, only to catch again... I though...ahhhh, I got water in my gas. So I put some fuel treatment into the tank that is the anti freeze/remove H2O from you tank stuff... I've used this in the past on various hoopties I've owned in the poorer days.... haha. I ran a couple tanks this way, being sure not to get below 3/4 tank.... and today was the day off to experiment by driving below 3/4 tank between to strategically located gas stations. Oh, I forgot to mention that when this crap happens... just a single gallon of gas, and the car runs like new again.... anyway... today, at just a tad under the 3/4 tank level... the car freakin' died, and absolutely would not restart until I put 2 gallons of gas into the tank... than like new again. I called someone that has worked on my car before... too far to drive at this point to be practical.... and he suggested maybe the fuel filter was clogged or the fuel pump was on the way out. I just finished searching every Boxster forum I could find, and the impending signs of fuel pump failure are nothing like this at all... But putting in a fuel additive does nothing! HELP!!!! I'm going to sit here and drink Sam Adams Cherry Wheat until someone replies! I'm going nutz! Thanks in advance. Scott Napa, CA